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H 







MODEL MAKING 



INCLUDING 



WORKSHOP PRACTICE, DESIGN AND 
CONSTRUCTION OF MODELS 



A PRACTICAL TREATISE FOR THE AMATEUR AND PRO- 
FESSIONAL MECHANIC— GIVING INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 
VARIOUS PROCESSES AND OPERATIONS INVOLVED 
IN MODEL MAKING AND THE ACTUAL CONSTRUC- 
TION OF NUMEROUS MODELS, INCLUDING 
STEAM ENGINES, SPEED BOATS, GUNS, 
LOCOMOTIVES, CRANES, ETC. 

LATHE WORK, PATTERN WORK, ELECTROPLATING, 

SOFT AND HARD SOLDERING, GRINDING, 

DRILLING, ETC., ARE ALSO INCLUDED 

EDITED BY 

\ 

RAYMOND FRANCIS YATES 

EDITOR OF "EVERYDAY ENGINEERING MAGAZINE" 



^!/. 




FULLY ILLUSTRATED WITH 300 ENGRAVINGS 
REPRODUCTIONS OF ACTUAL WORKING MODELS 



NEW YORK 

THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING COMPANY 

2 WEST 45th STREET 

1919 






k1>^^ 



Copyrighted, 1919, by 

The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. 

All Rights Reserved 



(^' 



\^ 



PRINTING, PRESSWORK AND BINDING BY THE 
PUBLISHERS PRINTING CO., NEW YORK CITY 



©CI.A512'»82 
M 18 1919 



PREFACE 

Model making is far from a senseless hobby — just 
the opposite; it is practical, educating and carries with 
it the prestige and dignity of a specialized science. Its 
scope is unlimited and its ramifications are unnumbered. 
The giant four-cylinder compound locomotive is repro- 
duced in miniature complete in every detail from Wal- 
schaert valve to throttle; a torpedo boat destroyer is 
modeled and provided Avith workable steam engines, a 
model speed boat is constructed and coaxed into going 
30 miles per hour; a six-cylinder engine is built with a 
six-throw crankshaft turned out of a solid piece of steel. 
This cannot exactly be called model making. The ex- 
pression is inadequate and does not carry with it the 
full meaning of the work. It is really model engineer- 
ing — engineering in miniature. The construction of a 
model locomotive involves no small amount of work and 
knowledge. Its constructor must know something of 
steam engineering, he must be able to read the most ad- 
vanced blueprints to enable him to produce his model to 
scale from a drawing of its prototype. Aside from this, 
he must be a mechanic of no mean ability. He must 
possess infinite patience and resourcefulness. Of course, 
not every model maker can build a locomotive. More 
simple mechanisms are usually chosen to start with. 
This is w^here part of the real value of model making 
presents itself, and its educating value becomes mani- 
fest. The man who makes a miniature locomotive, a 
torpedo boat destroyer or airship, has increased his own 
knowledge to a great extent; the experience has made 
him a better mechanic. In many cases, the fundamental 

5 



6 Preface 

principles of operation mnst be mastered before the 
model is made. As an example: A young man decides 
to make a workable model of a gasoline engine. First, 
unless already acquainted with its principles of opera- 
tion, he must study them until he becomes sufficiently 
acquainted with them to proceed intelligently with the 
design and construction of his machine. The engine 
must be carefully laid out and drawn accurately to scale ; 
its bore, stroke, power and cycle must all be decided 
upon. After the design is completed upon paper, the 
patterns for its castings must be turned out and then 
the machining starts. Precision and accuracy is essen- 
tial to a well-working engine and the lathe must be 
manipulated with skilful fingers. The engine is finished 
and assembled. What has its builder accomplished ? He 
is perfectly satisfied to stand and watch it run on the 
workshop bench. That is all he made it for, but aside 
from this, the love of his hobby has taught him much 
of practical value, as can readily be understood. The 
thousands of model makers in England have been of 
great value to their country through the wonderful 
knowledge they obtained by ^ tinkering" with models. 

After a man spends many hours — yes, even days, 
weeks and months — on the model of a certain machine, 
upon completion the thing represents something to him 
very remote from money. It is not made for money, and 
therefore its value is not estimated in money. It is diffi- 
cult to explain just how a man regards his model. His 
eyes' never tire of it — he actually loves it. The writer 
has in mind a man who cried like a child when a model 
upon which he had worked faithfully for a period of 
many months was damaged beyond repair in transpor- 
tation. The man was no exception. The insurance he 
received from the express company was nothing to him 
in comparison to his work. He was merely an ordinary 
modeler possessed of some peculiar Grod-given instinct 



Preface 7 

that made him love a miniature creation of his own 
hands. 

The reader will notice an nnmistakable defensive 
tone in the above paragraphs. True, it is defensive and 
intended largel}^ to vindicate the fact that a modeler is 
not necessarily an immature youth or a man with child- 
ish notions and that model making is an engineering 
science rather than a senseless hobby. 

In England, model making or model engineering car- 
ries with it a different meaning than it does at the pres- 
ent time in America. There has been a tendency in this 
country to associate it with toy making, and no com- 
parison could be more vague or humiliating to the ardent 
followers of the work than this. It is utterly unjustified 
and the impression remains merely because the public in 
this country has not been educated to the true meaning 
and significance of the science — a category in which ic 
rightfully has a place. It is hoped that this book, which 
is prepared to give impetus to model engineering in this 
country, will also serve the double purpose of creating 
a correct impression of the work its pages are devoted to. 

The best articles on model engineering that have 
appeared in Everyday Engineering Magazine during the 
past two years have been chosen for this book. It was 
the writer's task to re-edit these articles and arrange 
them for publication, together with 29,000 words of his 
o^^Tl writing relative to model engineering, part of which 
have appeared in past issues of the magazine and part 
of which is being published for the first time. Due 
acknowledgment and thanks are given to 'the various other 
contributors, as follows: J. F. Springer, H. H. Parker, 
George Bender, Thomas S. Curtis, Arthur J. Weed, A. 
Koster, L. F. Carter, Ian McKinzie, Ralph R. Weddell, 
Raymond Tetens, James E. Carrington, J. Fawcett Rapp, 
Omer Cote, S. H. Kershaw, and E. B. Nichols. The 
writer wishes to acknowledge his especial indebtedness to 



8 Preface 

Mr. George Bender for his valued assistance and sug- 
gestions in connection with the actual preparation of the 
volume. Mr. Bender is one of the most enthusiastic and 
able model engineers in the country and the truth of this 
statement is well substantiated by the descriptions of 
some of his models which appear in this volume, espe- 
cially the model steam locomotive in Chapter XXVIII. 

If this book helps to create interest in model engi- 
neering and also helps to correct the impression Qf a 
misinformed public relative to the science it treats, the 
highest wishes of those responsible for its inception will 
be realized. 

Eaymond Francis Yates. 

January, 1919. 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER I 

THE MODEL ENGINEERS' WORKSHOP 

Xotes on the general arrangement of the model engineers' workshop and 
tool equipment — The location of the shop, its lighting, heating, 
ventilation and power-driven machines Pages 15-24 

CHAPTEK II 

LATHES AND LATHE WORK 

The type of lathe to purchase for model making — Setting up the lathe — 
Elementary lathe work — Wood turning — Grinding tools — Knurling — 
Metal spinning — Turning crankshafts — Screw cutting — ^Internal lathe 
work — Attachments for a mo'del engineer's lathe — A small lathe made 
portable by mounting it in a cabinet Pages 25-64 

CHAPTER III 

DRILLS AND DRILLING 

Marking work for drilling — How to sharpen drills for various metals — 
Speed of drill for different work — Description of twist drills and 
names of parts — Using the V-block Pages 65-71 

CHAPTER IV 

SOFT AND HARD SOLDERING 

How to make soft solder adhere — Soldering fluxes — Preparation of metal- 
lic surfaces to receive solder — Methods of holding work while solder 
is being applied — Information on silver soldering — Silver soldering 
outfit — Composition of silver solder — Application of silver solder. 

Pages 72-81 
9 



10 Contents 

CHAPTER V 

HARDENING AND TEMPERING STEEL 

Simple experiments in the tempering of steel — Proper temperature for 
tempering to various degrees of hardness — Case hardening — Carbona- 
ceous material employed — Proper heating — Notes on case hardening 
♦ furnaces Pages. 82-88 

CHAPTER VI 

THE USE OF ABRASIVES 

Abrasive equipment for the model engineer's workshop — Grinding and 
polishing — Grinding attachments for small grinding head — Bonds 
used in making abrasive wheels- — How^ to choose a wheel for certain 
work — Precautions to be taken in mounting wheels Pages 89-99 

CHAPTER VII 

PATTERN MAKING 

General foundry practice — How moulds are made — Various kinds of pat- 
terns — Making patterns — Cores and core boxes — Parted patterns and 
how to* make them — Finishing patterns Pages 100-125 

CHAPTER VIII 

ELECTRO-PLATING 

Explanation of the process — Description of a small plating outfit — Solu- 
tions used for the electro-deposition of copper, silver and nickel — 
Cleansing solutions for various metals — Polishing and finishing 
work Pages 126-134 

CHAPTER IX 

A MODEL .SLIDE CRANK STEAM ENGINE 

Description of the engine — Procedure in machining and finishing the 
various parts Pages 135-139 



Contents 11 



CHAPTER X 

A MODEL TWIN-CYLINDER ENGINE 

Description of the type of the eugine — Machining the cylinder castings^ 
crankcase, valve chest, crankshaft and valve mechanism — Finishing 
the engine Pages 140-146 

CHAPTER XI 

A SINGLE-CYLINDER ENGINE 

General procedure in machining the engine parts, employing the most 
practical methods — Finishing the engine Pages 147-151 

CHAPTER XII 

A MODEL TWIN-CYLINDER MARINE ENGINE 

Description of the engine and vaMous parts — Lathe and machine work 
necessary in finishing the engine — Making a built-up crankshaft for 
the engine Pages 152-165 

CHAPTER XIII 

FLASH STEAM PLANTS 

How flash steam plants operate — Description of the various parts and 
fittings employed in a flash plant — Eegulation of the water supply — 
Lubrication — Difficulties in adjustment — Gasolene burners for flash 
steam plants Pages 166-174 

CHAPTER XIV 

A FLASH STEAM PLANT FOR LARGE MODEL AIRPLANES 

A description of the engine and what it is capable of doing — Machine 
work necessary to finish the engine — A flash steam plant for the 
engine and how to make it Pages 175-186 

' CHAPTER XY 

A FLASH STEAM PLANT FOR SMALL MODEL AIRPLANES 

Operation and design of the engine — How the engine is made — Design 
for a six-cylinder engine working on the same principle — Descrip- 
tion of a flash steam plant to drive the engine Pages 187-197 



12 Contents 

CHAPTER XVI 

I 

A MODEL STEAM TURBINE ; 

I 

Description of the design used — Machining the parts — Forming die for ! 

turbine buckets Pages 198-214 j 

I 

CHAPTER XVII \ 

DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF MODEL BOILERS j 

Efl&ciency of model boilers — Evaporative power — Convection currents— \ 

Boiler design — Pot boilers — Water-tube boilers — Marine boilers — \ 

Eiveting model boilers — Super-heaters Pages 215-230 *\ 

CHAPTER XVIII 

MODEL BOILER FITTINGS 

Design and construction of safety valves, check valves, water cocks, ! 

water gauges and steam gauges % Pages 231-241 i 

! 

CHAPTER XIX i 

I 

A RECORD-BREAKING MODEL HYDROPLANE 

The hull of the boat — Its flash boiler and twin-cylinder, high-speed i 

steam engine Pages 242-259 \ 

CHAPTER XX \ 

i 

A MODEL LAKE FREIGHTER 

Building the boat hull — The power plant and construction of the deck j 

fittings Pages 260-265 ' 

CHAPTER XXI 

A SHARPIE-TYPE MODEL BOAT ■ 

Making the mahogany hull — Power plant — Construction of special alcohol 

burner Pages 266-272 | 

i 

CHAPTER XXII ' 

A MODEL SUBMARINE CHASER i 

Method of constructing the hull — Electric power plant and transmission j 

—Deck fittings Pages 273-280 \ 



Contents 13 

CHAPTER XXIII 

A MODEL SUBMARINE WITH RADIO CONTROL 

Building the hull and superstructure — The radio control mechanism — 
Electric power plant — Special two-point relay — Automatic apparatus. 

Pages 281-321 

CHAPTER XXIV 

A MODEL CRANE 

The design of the crane — Its construction — The electrical driven hoist. 

Pages 322-329 

CHAPTER XXV 

AN ELECTRIC DOUBLE-DRUM HOIST 

The design of the hoist — Calculation of the power needed — Construction 
ot the machine Pages 330-334 

CHAPTER XXVI 

A MODEL GASOLENE ENGINE 

Machining the castings — flaking the crankshaft — The carburetor — Spark 
plug designs — Ignition , . Pages 335-345 

CHAPTER XXVII 

A MODEL ELECTRIC LOCOMOTIVE 

The prototype — Construction of the locomotive — Its driving-motors — 
Finishing the locomotive Pages 346-350 

CHAPTER XXVIII 

A MODEL STEAM LOCOMOTIVE 

The locomotive's protot3^pe — General design — Construction — Fittings. 

• Pages 351-356 

CHAPTER XXIX 

A MODEL GYROSCOPE RAILROAD 

The action of gyroscopes — Design and construction of the car — Elec- 
trically propelled gyroscope — Rails Pages 357-364 



14 Contents 



CHAPTER XXX 

A MODEL CATERPILLAR TANK 

Framework of the tank — Tractors — Driving motors and gearing — Reel 
for feed cable — Covering the tank Pages 365-371 

CHAPTER XXXI 

A MODEL SIEGE GUN 

Machine work on the gun — Construction of the wooden wheels — Finish- 
ing the gun Pages 372-379 

INDE2t Pages 381-390 



MODEL MAKING 



CHAPTER I 

THE MODEL EI^GINEERS' WOKKSHOP 

Notes on the general arrangement of the model engineers' workshop and 
tool equipment — The locations of the shop, its lighting, heating, 
ventilation and power-driven machines. 

Before considering tlie tool equipment and general 
arrangement of the model engineers' workshop, a few 
words Avill be said in regard to the location of the shop, 
which is of some importance. If the Avorkshop is in the 
honse it is generally necessary to either put it in the 
cellar or in the attic ; both locations have their advantages 
and their disadvantages. The attic is extremely warm in 
the summer and unbearably cold in the winter. The attic 
does possess the advantage, however, of being very dry 
and, in the average case, quite light. Cellars are often 
quite damp and this is bad for the tool equipment, as good 
steel rusts very easily unless it is properly protected. 
The cellar, however, is delightfully cool in the summer 
and, with the furnace, it is comfortable in the winter. 
Of course, the matter of light must be considej;ed if the 
shop is to be placed in the cellar, as artificial illumination 
must be employed and this is by no means desirable. The 
lighting problem can be partly overcome by giving the 
walls a good coating of whitewash. This reflects light 
and it is not necessary to employ such poAverful lamps 
to illuminate a given space. The whitewash also makes 
the cellar more clean and wholesome. A wooden floor 
placed over the concrete is also a decided improvement 
and offers some protection to the worker. If a good, 

15 



16 



Model Engineering 



substantial cabinet is made to keep the tools in, the 
trouble from dampness will be almost entirely obviated — 
providing the tools are not left lying around the bench. 
The lathe, drill press and other small machine equipment 
should, be kept well covered when not in use and, if left 
for a considerable time, the parts that are not enameled 
should be smeared Avith vaseline, which can be easily 




Fig. 1 — A corner in a model engineer's workshop 

removed and which is very effective in preventing rust 
and protecting the steel from moisture. 

Owing to the low ceiling in most cellars, it is almost 
impossible to drive the lathe and drill press or other 
machinery from a line shaft and the independent motor 
drive must be introduced. This is to be desired and 
recommended. Although expensive, it is more convenient 
and satisfactory .V If second-hand motors are purchased 



The Model Engineers' Workshop 



17 



the expense need not be prohibitive. A well-arranged 
shop in the cellar is sho\^^l in the illustrations, and from 
these the reader will get a good idea of just what can 
be done by using a little care and forethought in making 
the plans. It will be seen that everything is systemat- 
ically arranged and that every tool has a place. 




Fig. 2 — A power-driven jig-saw in a workshop 

If there is a window in the workshop, the lathe should 
be set up before it, as this offers the very best light pos- 
sible to work by. If such an arrangement is not possible, 
a shaded light will have to be dropped on a cord over 
the lathe. In this case, it is well to arrange a small board 
in back of the machine and place all the gears, wrenches, 
attachments, etc., upon it Avhere they will be convenient 
to reach. A small shelf can be placed at the bottom of 
the board to hold tools, reamers, drills and measuring 
instruments while the workman is usins: the machine. 



18 Model Engineering 

If the lathe is motor-driven, the controlling switch should 
be placed so that the operator can reach it with little 
trouble, as it is oftentimes necessary to stop a lathe 
quickly, especially in screAv-cutting. Further informa- 
tion on setting up a small lathe is given in Chapter II. 

The work bench is an important part of the equipment 
of a small shop and should be given careful attention. A 
large bench should be made Avhen possible, providing 
there is sufficient room, as a small bench soon becomes 
littered with tools when a job is being done, and this 
necessitates searching for certain tools more often than 
would otherwise be necessary if a larger bench were built. 
Two-inch planking should be used for the "top of the 
bench. Twenty-four inches is a good width for the bench, 
•although 30 inches does not make it too wide. The sup- 
porting posts should be made of 2 x 2-inch stock and 
these members should be placed not more than 3 feet 
apart if a good, substantial bench is desired. A long 
tool rack can be placed behind the bench and this can 
be formed by a long plank nailed or bolted to the wall. 
Various tools can be arranged upon this. In many cases 
they can be held in place by means of nails and such 
things as files can be held in a special rack cut from a 
piece of wood. Both a heavy and a light vise should be 
attached to the bench at opposite ends, and a light should 
be placed quite close to each one, as very careful and 
accurate work is often done in the vise and sufficient light 
is quite necessary. The work bench can be elaborated 
upon by adding several drawers to it, as there is a multi- 
tude of things that may be kept in them. A splendid 
addition to the bench can be made by building a shelf 
over it where stock of various nature can be stored out 
of the way. Lumber, brass rods, steel rods, metal sheet- 
ing, etc., can be placed on this shelf where it will be out 
of the way and yet always conveniently available. 

In one corner of the shop, a small shelf should be made 



The Model Engineers' Wor^kshop 



19 



upon which all soldering, brazing, tempering and heat- 
ing operations in general should be done. This shelf 
should be well covered with asbestos board or heavy 
asbestos sheeting to render it absoluteh^ fireproof. If 
this shelf is placed against a wooden wall, it will also 
be necessary to protect the wall in the same manner. In 
the cellar, where there is a stone wall, this procedure 




Fig. 3 — A tool cabinet in a cellar workshop 



will not be necessary, although a small hood made from 
heavy asbestos sheeting should be placed over the shelf 
to prevent sparks from reaching the ceiling. A small 
belloAvs can be placed under the shelf, where it can be 
operated with the foot if the worker desires to use a 
slight air pressure in connection with a blow lamp or gas 
burner for brazing or silver soldering. 

Xow that the general arrangement of the model mak- 
er's workshop has been covered, the tool equipment of 
such a shop will be considered more in detail. Anyone 



20 



Model Engineering 



can have a well-equipped shop if they have the money 
to invest in it, but the average model maker finds it neces- 
sary to accumulate his tools slowly and, in many cases, 
piece by piece, until a complete outfit is obtained. The 
following is a list of tools that should form the equipment 
of the model engineer's workshop. While many costly 
tools and machines could be added, the writer believes 




Fig. 4 — A small, power-driven drill press in a model engineer's shop 



that the list is complete enough for the average fellow 
whose ambition in this respect is generally limited by his 
pocketbook : 

Small lathe (Screw-cutting if Possible) 

Drill Press 

Grinding Head (See Chapter VI) 

Hack Saw (Both Large and Small) 

Hand Drill 

Set of Drills 



The Model Engineers' Workshop 21 

Gasolene Torch 

Two Soldering Coppers (Large and Small) 

Two Vises (Large and Small) 

Assortment of Files 

Micrometer 

Scale 

Calipers (Inside aiid Outside) 

Six-inch Dividers 

Chisels 

Center Punches 

Pliers 

Tinner's Snips 

Assortment of Taps and Dies 

Tap Wrench and Die Stock 

Screw Drivers 

Machinists' Square 

Drill Gauge 

Various Hanmiers 

Scriber 

Much could be added to this list in the way of wood- 
working tools, but owing to the fact that most of the 
model engineer's work is done on metal this was not 
thought necessary.* Two good saws, a draw-knife, a few 
chisels, a plane and a mitre box would compose a good 
wood-working equipment which would meet the needs of 
the average shop. Such an outfit is, of course, quite 
necessary if model power boat hulls are to be made. All 
wood turning can be done on the metal working lathe and 
the tools used can be ground to shape from old files, as 
explained in a subsequent chapter. 

A very useful addition to the Avorkshop is a small 
cabinet with at least twenty drawers, in Avhich small 
brads, nails, tacks, screws, nuts and bolts may be kept. 
A sample of the screw, nut or whatever it may be that is 
kept in the drawer, should ])e fixed to the front of it so 



22 Model Engineering 

that a search for the object wanted will not be necessary. 
A small cabinet of this nature can be easily made by pro- 
curing a few tobacco tins of a certain size and building 
a small wooden rack to place them on. The tins should 
be provided with covers to keep dust and dirt out. 

In many cases the model engineer can build his work- 
shop in the back yard, and he" can then design it so it 
will be well lighted, ventilated and heated. Such a shop 



Fig. 5 — A small engine lathe with attachment^ mounted on the wall 
where they will be convenient 

should have at least 225 square feet of floor space, and 
more if possible. It will be quite necessary to afford 
ample protection from moisture and dampness when the 
floor is put in, and the builder is cautioned to consider 
this point very carefully, as a poorly constructed floor 
will make the place very damp and the tools will suffer 
greatly. Several remedies can be applied in a case like 
this, and probably the most practical method and the 
one requiring least trouble and expense is that of putting 
in a double floor with a layer of heavy tar-paper placed 



The Model Engineers' Workshop 



23 



between. Many might think that raising the shop off the 
ground on posts would be effective in preventing trouble 
with moisture, and this is quite so, but, at the same time, 
the fact that such a building has a very cold floor in the 
winter time should not be lost sight of. The sides might 
be boarded up in the winter, but in the end this procedure 




Fig. 6 — ^A power-driven lathe mounted on a work bench 

is far more expensive than placing a double floor in the 
building when it is put up. 

In order to have the shop well lighted, it is a good plan 
to put in a sk3"-light about 6 square feet in size. In the 
Avinter when the shop becomes more difficult to keep at 
a comfortable temperature, the sky-light can be boarded 
up, as Avindows always make a building cold. However, 
all the AvindoAvs possible should be used when the weather 



24 Model Engineering 

conditions permit. Plenty of light means accnracy in 
machine work, and accuracy means good working models 
that will function as their builder intended. 

The model engineer should take a great pride in his 
workshop and everything should be kept in good condi- 
tion. After each job is finished, the tools should be put 
away, each in its proper place, and the bench and lathe 
carefully brushed off. The importance of keeping every 
tool in its place cannot be overestimated, as every good 
mechanic well realizes. If this is done, a job can be car- 
ried on quickly and the worker will not lose patience and 
temper in looking for a certain tool which may be ob- 
scured under a lot of dirt and junk spread about the 
bench. Order should be the watchword of the model 
engineer in regard to his shop. 



CHAPTER II 

LATHES AND LATHE WORK 

The type of lathe to purchase for model making — Setting up the lathe — 
Elementary lathe work — Wood turning — Grinding tools — Knurling — 
Metal spinning — Turning crankshafts — Screw cutting — Internal lathe 
work — Attachments for a model engineer 's lathe — A small lathe made 
portable by mounting it in a cabinet. 

The lathe for model making or light experimental 
work need not be an expensive one. A complete ontfit, 
comprising a practical lathe with a few tools and attach- 
ments for nearly all ordinary jobs, may be purchased for 
from $40.00 to $60.00, depending npon the equipment 
desired with it. 

Money so invested is well spent, for not only does the 
home lathe offer opportunities for developing a fasci- 
nating and edifying hobby, but it will also provide many 




Fig. 7 — A model maker's lathe 

a chance to turn an honest penny for its owner. The 
field to-day for mechanical toys, novelties, and working 
models is tremendous and the wise home mechanic will 



26 



Model Engineering 



make his work lucrative to the extent of paying for his 
equipment and perhaps giving him a little surplus be- 
sides. And, in this connection, let it be said that there is 
probably no single tool in the entire shop that develops 
in its owner and user such a sense of affection as the 
lathe. 

In selecting the lathe it is well to send for the catalogs 
of the manufacturers, comparing the various features of 




Fig. 8 — Using a sawing attachment on the lathe shown in Fig. 7 

practical importance as well as the prices. There are 
just a few essentials that the prospective purchaser 
should look out for, regardless of whether he wishes 
a heavy, expensive tool or a light bench lathe. One of 
these is the holloiv spindle found on every modern lathe 
of any value whatever regardless of its price. There 
must be a hole clear through the live spindle (the revolv- 
ing one) and the hole at the * ^business end" should be 
tapered to take a standard No. 1 Morse taper in the case 
of a small or moderate-sized lathe. This is important. 



Lathes and Lathe Work 27 

On the headstock (live spindle) end of the lathe there 
are other features to look ont for. For one thing, there 
positively must be some means for taking up the inevi- 
table wear in the spindle and bearings. The only prac- 
tical method is the cone bearing, which is so simple and 
effective that no honest manufacturer should do without 
it even in a cheap lathe. In selecting a lathe, see whether 
there is a little collar at the left hand end of the live 



Fig. 9— A close-up view of the sawing attachment 

spindle that can be screwed up to tighten the spindle in 
its bearings. 

A third point to look out for is to see that there are 
regular oilcups of some description on the headstock. 
Even crude ones will be better than nothing, but the really 
well-designed tool, even though it be an inexpensive one, 
will have a cup with some sort of a cover device to pre- 
vent chips and filings from getting into the oil receptacle 
and from there to the bearing where they would cause 
trouble. 

The fourth point, is to see that there is a cone pulley 
on the lathe. At least two steps and preferably three 
should be demanded, as the only practicable method of 
changing speed, and at the same time producing the cor- 
responding change in potver delivered at the ivorh, is by 
means of the cone pulley. The one exception to this state- 



28 Model Engineering 

ment is fomid in the case of the expensive, direct-con- 
nected, motor-driven lathes. The popular idea that a 
variable-speed electric motor can be belted direct to the 
lathe pulley and a satisfactory adjustment of speed and 
power obtained is a fallacy, as the variations in motor 
speed produce a corresponding variation in power deliv- 
ered at the work. The proper way to belt a motor direct 
to a lathe of this kind is by means of a cone pulley on the 
motor as well as on the lathe. By this means, when 
greater power is required at ^the work, the small pulley 
on the motor will revolve at high (proper) speed while 
the large pulley on the lathe will take all of tl\,e power 




Fig. 10 — Centering a Steel rod 

possible from the belt owing to the far greater tractive 
surface presented to the belt by the large pulley. 

Other considerations are of lesser importance, but 
among them may be noted the size of the live spindle, 
which should be as large as practicable to afford stiffness, 
the proportions of the nose (threaded portion of spindle), 
which should have plenty of metal under the threads, and 
the size of the hole in the spindle. 

The bed of the lathe should by all means be machined 
(milled). Some very cheap lathes are turned out for 
wood turning with the beds simply cleaned up on a 
grinder, and these are an abomination. 

The tailstock (opposite the headstock) should be ad- 
justable along the bed by means of a screw clamp readily 



Lathes and Lathe Work 29 

accessible, for this adjustment is made hundreds of times 
during the course of a job. The feature of a quick-fed 
tailstock spindle is a valuable one as it adapts the lathe 
for drilling. In addition to the lever feed, the tailstock 
spindle should have also a screw feed for use in 'turning 
to hold the dead center against the work. 

The purchase of attachments will rest with the indi- 
vidual. He will need, first of all, some tools to work with 
and also either a countershaft, foot power, or electric or 
other motor, for the drive. The countershaft is a great 
convenience even with direct electric motor drive, as it 
enables the lathe to be started and stopped almost in- 
stantly without having the momentum of the motor arma- 
ture to be overcome. A drill chuck is practically essential, 
as is also a small universal scroll chuck. The latter will 
make it possible to grip metal rods, cylinders and discs 
in the lathe without the trouble of centering and support- 
ing by means of dogs and clamps. However, as these are 
both more or less identified with rather advanced metal 
turning, they may be omitted until the worker has gained 
some experience. 

The equipment supplied with the lathe, as a rule, con- 
sists of a slotted face plate (to screw on nose), an arbor 
with a nut to take grinder wheels, saws, etc., and also 
discs of metal or wood to be turned, a tee-rest to form a 
support for hand-turning tools, and a drill chuck to take 
drills from to 14 iiich in size. This, with the addition 
of a few tools, will enable the worker to start serious 
work. 

When the lathe comes, it will be covered with a thick, 
sticky grease which protects it from rust in transit. This 
grease must be removed with a cloth moistened in kero- 
sene and the bright metal parts polished so that they are 
not sticky. Going over the lathe once a week with an 
oily cloth will keep all parts bright and shiny, as they 
should be. 



30 Model Engineering 

When selecting the spot for the lathe, bear in mind 
jnst a few very important points. First is the light; 
this really should come from over the right shoulder, 
as it should fall directly upon the work at the point of 
.cutting. If this cannot be arranged, the light may come 
toAvard the worker, who will then have to wear a visor 
to shield his eyes. The least favorable is to have the 
light come from over the left shoulder. It merely blinds 
by reflection and casts a deep shadow at the point where 
it is most needed. The only alternative is to place a 
sheet of Avhite reflecting material on a movable arm so 
that the light is reflected upon the work. 

The next consideration is the bench or table upon 
which the lathe is mounted. This bench should be stiff 
and rigid to resist the tendency of the lathe to vibrate, 
especially when running at high speed with a piece of 
work of unequal proportions (out of balance) between 
centers. If only a kitchen table is obtainable, it should 
be braced Avith crossed wires and spreaders between the 
legs and the feet really should be secured to the floor if 
possible. This latter is positively necessary if the coun- 
tershaft or driving motor is on the ceiling or wall. If the 
motor is mounted upon or underneath the table, the feet 
need not be fastened to the floor. The best and most sat- 
isfactory bench is one built into the shop. It may be 
crude, but it must be stiff and level; even though ceiling, 
floor and walls are out of true, see that the lathe bench 
and all shelves, supports, etc., carrying running ma- 
chinery of any kind, are quite level. 

Another point is to see that the lefthand end of the 
lathe is not obstructed so that rods, etc., may be passed 
through the live spindle. See also that there is enough 
room in back of the lathe to permit a circular saw to be 
used with effect. 

Set the lathe up with the largest screws that will pass 
through the holes in the feet, or, better still, use flat head 



Lathes and Lathe Work 31 

bolts passed through holes in the bench, with the nuts 
and Avashers underneath. Make sure the lathe bed is 
parallel with the line shaft, or with the countershaft. 
Arrange all tools, attachments, etc., on ledges and shelves 
within easy reach and bear in mind constantly in placing 
these shelves -that the entire bench all around the lathe 
becomes literally snowed under Avith chips and shavings 
Avhen wood turning is done. It is far better to have the 
tool shelves slightl}^ beyond reach of the shoAver of chips, 
as it Avill saA^e many a A^aluable minute in cleaning up. 

To line up countershaft or line shaft pulleys AA'ith those 
on the lathe, simply tie a plumb line to the upper shaft 
and slide it along until the bob comes to a standstill 
directly beside the lathe pulley cone. If line shaft, coun- 
tershaft, and lathe liaA'e been properly mounted in paral- 
lel and perfectly leA^el, no trouble Avill be had AA^ith belts 
running off. The final adjustment of the pulleys Avill 
make them ready for belting. 

In placing belts, put the smooth side of the belt next 
to the pulley. The rough side Avill not pull nearly so AA^ell, 
as its uneA^en surface proAddes a myriad of air pockets 
AA'hich prevent traction. 

To lace the belt ends, cut the belting AAdth a sharp 
knife against a tri-sqiiare, as the ends must be square, 
cutting the belt i/4 inch shorter than you can stretch it 
by pulling the leather over the pulleys. Then punch or 
drill three small holes in each belt end, making sure the 
holes are opposite each other. Pass a piece of soft iron 
or brass AAdre, of about No. 22 gauge for a 1-incli belt, 
through one hole at the edge, then through the corre- 
sponding hole in the opposite end of the belt, making sure 
the belt is in position. DraAv vqy the AAdre and pass one 
end through the next hole, crossing oA^er on the rough 
or outside of the belt. Pass through the opposite hole 
and oAT'r to the third pair, crossing again on the rough 
side. DraAv up tiglit and pass through once more to giA^e 



32 



Model Engineering 



a double thick lace on the side next the piulley. Cross 
back to the center pair of holes and pass under again. 
Then cross to the first pair of holes, pass under and up 
through and two ends of wire will be had to link -together 
on the rough or outside surface of the belt. The smooth 
side, next the pulley, will have no cross-over laces to wear 
through after a short amount of use. 

The amateur will first perform the operation knoA^m 
as *^ scraping" by the skilled Avorker, who looks askance 
upon this form of wood turning. It is, however, safe 
and easy in the hands of the unskilled, although it is 
infinitely slower, less efficient, and productive of poorer 





-5l\ 


ft 


y 




Tig. 11 — Proper centering 



results than the true wood turner's cut, which is more of 
a chisel or knife-edge cut. The latter is somewhat dan- 
gerous in the hands of the novice,, as the tool is almost 
sure to ^^bite" or grab into the wood if it is not held 
properly. 

For such tools, the use of old flat files, ground prac- 
tically square on the ends, is recommended. Such a tool, 
when brought up to a piece of wood in the lathe, and 
supported upon the tee rest, which should be just as close 
to the work as possible, will scrape otf stock at an aston- 
ishing rate. For roughing off the surplus stock, a tur- 
ner's gouge is used, as a rule. This tool may be used with 
comparative safety by the novice if he is careful to take 
light cuts and to grip the tool firmly, using his forearm to 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



33 



hold doAvn the long handle. The finishing cuts are taken 
with what is known as a skew chisel (the cutting edge is 
askew) but the use of this tool is not recommended unless 
the worker caii get some instruction in its use. It will 
bite fiercely if not used properly, and if it does nothing 
worse it may spoil a piece of nearly finished work. 

For metal work, the slide rest is practically an essen- 
tial. Some metal turning may be done with the tool 
made from a fiat file held on the tee rest, but for fairly 
good work the slide rest is necessary. This is particu- 
larly the case when a long shoulder is to be turned, for 




Fig. 12 — Two examples of improper centering 



instance. For curved profiles, the hand tool is quite sat- 
isfactory, however. 

The metal turning tools that go into the tool post 
on the slide rest are usually of % x i/l-inch carbon steel 
for a small lathe. There is a little curved rocker piece 
that goes beneath the tool in the tool post to alter the 
height of the cutting edge of the-tool. This cutting edge 
should ordinarily be exactly on a line with the center 
of the work. There are modifications of this rule, par- 
ticularly in the case of work of large diameter, but in 
facing or shouldering small rods, for instance, the tool 
should be set to the center. 

There are just a few cardinal principles to be mas- 
tered by the worker in metals that are essential even to 



34 Model Engineering 

the most mediocre work. These points will be consid- 
ered. The first thing to learn is what is meant by rake 
and clearance. These two terms mean volumes in the 
nse of metal working tools. 

The rake of a tool is the angle of the top or cutting 
surface to the work being cut. If the surface of the tool 
slopes totvard the work, or downward in the direction of 
the work, the rake is negative; if it slopes aivay from the 
work, the rake is positive. To keep these in mind, remem- 
ber that the positive rake is the one that makes a harh or 
hook of the tool to catch underneath the chip and pull it 
away. The negative rake scrapes the surface away in- 
stead of catching underneath and tearing it or pulling it. 



CHISEL MARK 




Fig. 13 — Lathe centers should be kept as shown at the left. Accurate 
work cannot be done with a tool such as that shown at the right 

Now there is something in the nature of metals which 
we do not fully understand but which experience has 
taught us makes it necessary for us to use one kind of 
rake with certain metals and the opposite with others. 
For instance, brass invariably demands a negative rake. 
If one attempts the slightest operation upon brass with 
a tool having a positive rake, the tool is almost sure to 
bite into the work, spoiling it and perhaps break the tool, 
Be sure to have the top surface of the tool ground so that 
it slopes downward toward the work when cutting brass. 
Steel, on the other hand, demands a decided positive 
rake. 

It is not necessary to regrind the entire cutting sur- 
face of the tool when changing from one to the other. 
If the tool has normally a positive rake for steel, one 
needs merely to take the tip of this rake off so that just 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



35 



the cutting edge lias a negative rake when brass is to 
be cut. 

In turning from a casting,- take a cut sufficiently deep 
the first time to get quite beneath the scale or hard crust 
on the casting. Be sure this crust is cut right through, 
as, if it scrapes the tool at all, the cutting power of the 
latter will be destroyed and it must be regromid. 




Facing End 
of Shaft- 



Po SI five 
Rake - Steel 



Nega+fve 
Rake- Brass 



Fig. 14 — A. Using a left-hand side tool. B. Using a right-hand side tool. 
C. A right-hand bent tool. D. A right-hand diamond point tool. E. 
Left-hand diamoiid point tool. F. A round nose tool. G. A cutting- 
off or parting tool. H. Bent threading tool. I. Roughing tool. J. 
Boring tool. K. Facing the end of a shaft with a right-hand facing 
tool. L. A tool ground with a positive rake for cutting steel. M. A 
tool ground with a negative rake for cutting brass. 



36 Model Engineering 

The clearance of a tool is the separation or, as its 
name implies, the clearance between the body or support- 
ing portion of the tool and the work being cnt. The illus- 
tration showing the various angles for cutting tools illus- 
trates this clearly. All tools must have clearance to 
prevent the unused portion of the tool from scraping the 




Fig. 15 — Thread cutting on a small lathe with a die and stock 

work and preventing the cutting edge from doing its 
duty. 

The larger lathe shown in Fig. 17 is very suit- 
able for general amateur work and model making, al- 
though it is much more expensive and requires greater 
power to drive it. Unlike a small lathe, this machine 
is capable of doing many special jobs that could not be 
done successfully on a smaller machine. The smaller 
the number of machines in a shop, the more desirable it 
is to know how to use the lathe for work not ordinarily 
done on it. A drill press is the proper machine tool to 
employ in boring holes. But, if we have no drill press, 
perhaps we may be glad enough to rig up the lathe for 
the work, even though it will not do the job quite so 
economically. 

The lathe may be used for putting on a checked edge 
or milled edge or the like on the heads of thumb screws, 



Lathes and Lathe Wo?'k 37 

thumb Tints and similar articles. Knnrling may be done 
on brass or steel work by nsing the proper tools and 
speed. For what may be called hand knurling, we use 
the small steps on the cone pnlley, if the lathe is driven 
by one; or, if electrically driven, w^e employ whatever 
means we may have to get speed. Brass may be knurled 
properly with a surface speed in the neighborhood of 
300 feet per minute; steel, at 200 feet. These are high 
speeds and may not be obtainable without making special 
arrangements. If not obtainable at all, then we may use 
the best speed possible. The speeds mentioned refer 
to the rate at which the rotating edge passes a given 
fixed point. A 1-inch brass screw head would have to 
turn round 1,145 times in a minute in order to have a 
peripheral speed of 300 feet per minute. For a steel 




Fig. 16 — Turning down a small steel rod 

screw head of the same size, the 200 feet per minute would 
demand 763 turns in a minute of time. Where the tool 
is mechanically controlled, we may reduce these speeds 
to very ordinary ones ; say, 60 feet per minute for brass, 
and 40 feet for steel. 

A special knurling tool is used, which the operator 
may buy or make for himself. The type used in hand 
knurling consists of a knurling wheel mounted in a metal 



38 



Model Engineering 



holder at one of its ends. At the other end of the metal 
holder, a wooden handle may be arranged for the con- 
venience of the operator. The knurling tool nsed in 
machine knurling may consist of two knurling wheels 
mounted in a small bracket, which in turn is pivoted on 
a holder adapted to be held in the tool post. 

With hand knurling it Avill be advantageous, not to 
say necessary, to have a rest mounted in front of the 




Fig. 17 — A large model engineers' lathe 



work. The tool is held in the right hand and is laid on 
the rest, where it is controlled by the left hand. Matters 
are managed so as to bring the knurling wheel up against 
the work from below and toward the front. 

With machine knurling, we secure the tool in the tool 
post, setting it so as to bring the knurling wheels up 
against the under part of the work, but with the nearer 
wheel well forward of the axis. The position of the wheel, 
relative to the work, is substantially the same whether 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



39 



Ave control the tool by hand or by means of the tool post. 
In nsing the tAvo-wheeled tool we manage so that both 
wheels shall press eqnally against the work at all points. 
In beginning, whether with the hand controlled tool 
or not, we oil the work and the knurling wheel or wheels. 
In machine knurling, with the pair of wheels, there is 
more or less danger of spoiling the Avork by making dif- 
ferent indentations mth the two wheels. To govern this 
matter, things may be tested before putting on power. 
"We press the tool by hand up against the work, using 




Fig. 18 — Knurling with a hand tool 



considerable force, and work the lathe belt by hand. 
AVhen we have started the knurling all round and are 
sure everything is right, Ave may go ahead and use poAver 
drive. 

A crankshaft aa^II liaA^e one or more cranks. Some- 
times these are set differently on the shaft. The turning 
of the AA'rist pins is a particular job, requiring exact and 
painstaking attention. The difficulty is, hoAvever, not so 
much in the actual cutting operation as in the preliminary 
Avork of getting the crankshaft properly on the lathe. 
Xaturally, it is held by the centers in the head and tail 



40 



Model Engineering 



stocks. The line connecting the points of these centers 
must be in line with the axis of the wrist pin and both 
must be exactly parallel with the axis of the shaft itself. 
When we go to put the work on the lathe centers we will 
probably find that not only have we no center holes for 
the centers but no places to put such holes. This diffi- 
culty may be overcome by putting temporary arms on 
the ends of the crankshaft and borins: center holes in 




Coarse 

Fig. 19 — Knurling witli a machine tool. Examples of knurling are shown 

at the right 



these pieces. Each of these arms corresponds to one of 
the arms of the crank whose wrist pin it is proposed to 
turn. It may be secured to the shaft by arranging a 
suitable hole in the arm to receive the shaft and then 
effecting a grip by means of a set screw arranged in the 
arm. If the crankshaft has cranks set at angles to one 
another, then we may use a kind of elbow instead of a 
simple straight arm. Each part of the elbow will corre- 
spond to a crank and the shaft will pass into a hole 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



41 



placed at the angle of the elbow. The center holes for 
use in machining the wrist pins are bored in the outer 
ends of the arms. If we have only single arms to deal 
with, then the location of the center holes will not be so 
difficult a job as otherwise. We first ascertain the exact 
length of the throw of the crank. This is the distance 
apart of the axes of the wrist pin and the shaft. If the 
two flat faces of the arm are planned parallel, we will 
be in good position to locate the central points of the 
two holes, one for the shaft and the other for the center 
hole. The problem now is to find if everything is all 
right. If the set screws are arranged precisely the same 



H 



i. 



I 

Fig. 20 — How a small crankshaft is mounted between lathe centers 



in both arms and are, in fact, set in line with a plane 
through the axes of the two holes in the arm, then the 
tightening up of these screws should put the two center 
holes at exactly equal distances from the axis of the 
shaft. Tighten up moderately and check with a surface 
gauge. The work may be rotated by operating the lathe 
by pulling on the belt by hand. Note at the same time 
whether there is going to be stock all around for the 
wrist pin. The testing of this matter may be done by 
putting a sharp-pointed tool into the tool post and bring- 
ing it up near the wrist pin. As the lathe is slowly 
worked to rotate the crankshaft, we can note the space 
between tool and Avrist pin. 

The lathe may be used for spinning, provided two 
conditions may be satisfactorily met. One of these is 



42 



Model Engineering 



substantial construction; and the other is speed. Spin- 
ning requires the speed in the spindle of the lathe itself 
ranging from 1,800 to 2,500 E.P.M. •Whatever arrange- 
ments are made to get the speed, they should be sub- 
stantial, as it is necessary to rotate the spindle, the work, 
and accessories used to secure the work to the spindle, 





Fig. 21 — Wooden follower for metal spinning 



as a face-plate, etc., and in addition overcome the resist- 
ance to the spinning operation. With a countershaft 
connected up so as to run at 450 to 600 E.P.M., we have 
only to effect a drive of the spindle by pulleys in the 
ratio of 4 : 1 to get from 1,800 to 2,400 E.P.M., no account 
being taken of the slippage of the belt. 

There are three or four differences in the lathe as 
used for metal spinning from the lathe as used for ordi- 
nary metal turning. These differences affect the head- 
stock, face-plate, the tool rest and the tail center. The 
*^dog'' is not employed. The ordinary center-screw, face- 
plate or outside scrcAV face-plate used in wood turning 
is screwed onto the headstock spindle. A block of hard 
wood, e.g., hard maple, is screwed onto the face-plate and 
then turned to the form corresponding to the shape that 
is to be assumed by the work at its first stage. The tail 
center is used to hold against it the circular disc of sheet 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



43 



metal wliicli constitutes the blank for the spinning. Fric- 
tion is depended upon to hold the disc in place, until 
actual spinning begins. The rest is not a difficult thing 
to make. The tail center may be purchased and the tools 
us.ed are not especially hard to make. The metals in 
common use for spinning are copper, white metal, brass, 
zinc, and aluminum. A great range of articles can be 
made. Many articles that can be made by stamping can 
also be made by spinning. Some articles can probably be 
made better by spinning them. The tool is used as a 
lever, one end being pressed against the work and the 
hand supplying the power at the other. A movable pin 
set up on the rest provides the fulcrum of the lever. 
The direction of motion of the lever varies from a vertical 





Fig. 22 — How a piece of metal is spun over the form 



plane at the beginning of operations to a horizontal plane 
at the completion of the spinning process. As the metal 
is gradually pressed over the form, the pin is moved 
toward the headstock of the lathe by changing it from 
one hole to another. The ordinary speed lathe, if of 
rather robust construction, is more suitable for this work 
than the engine lathe. It is a question of the speed of 
the spindle. If that can be obtained with the ordinary 
substantial engine lathe, then the problem is solved. 

Internal work on the metal working lathe is largely 
done by means of the boring bar. By mounting the bar 



44 



Model Engineering 



on the lathe centers and providing for its rotation by 
one or more dogs, we have a considerable part of our 
preparatory rigging. The tool or tools are held by the 
bar, a slot cut through the latter providing a means for 
holding the shank of the cutting tool. The tool is rotated, 
but is not, in the method set forth, fed to the work either 
parallel with the axis of the lathe or perpendicular to it. 
These two movements constitute, in external work, the 
feeding of the tool. In the present style of internal work, 
the tool has only one motion and that is rotatory. The 




rig. 23 — How a "boring bar is employed to bore out a steam engine 

cylinder 



longitudinal and transverse feed is accomplished by car- 
rying the work along the lathe axis and shifting it trans- 
versely. The work is secured, very firmly, to the carriage 
or rather to the lower portion of the compound rest. The 
longitudinal movement of the work back and forth can 
be provided for by putting the carriage into mesh with 
the lead screw. The transverse movement of the work is 
secured by operating the bottom part of the rest back 
and forth squarely across the carriage. The tool in the 
bar may be held in place by one or more wedges in the 
slot. A great deal of work may be done by this rig. 

As this type of boring bar is quite suitable for boring 
out cylinders for gasolene engines and the like, a few 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



45 



more remarks may be justified. To test whether, at the 
beginning, the bar and the work are central, we may 
replace the cutting tool in the bar by a piece of wire. 
We run the carriage back and forth and rotate the bar, 
all by hand, and thus see whether work and bar agree. 
In case of disagreement, it ought not to be the bar that 
is at fault, since it is set between the lathe centers. But 
the work may not be set 'properly on the carriage. In 



WORK 




Fig. 24 — How a thread- cutting tool should be mounted 



making the finishing cut, we. should use an almost micro- 
scopic feed in order not to spring the bar. Further, the 
final cut should be taken at one operation without stop- 
ping.. One reason for this is that stopping means cooling 
off, and cooling off means shrinkage of tool and expan- 
sion of the hole being cut. 

Probably the most important use of the lathe is that 
of screw cutting. There are several kinds of screw 
threads in use. In America, the 60-degree V-thread and 
the United States Standard or Sellers thread are em- 
ployed, and in England the Whitworth. Besides these 
are what may be called the square thread and the Briggs 
pipe thread. In all, the type is defined by specifying 
details relative to an axial section. The 60-degree V- 
thread is one whose axial section is a triangle, the angles 
of which are all 60 degrees. The U. S. section is similar, 
only the tops of threads and bottoms of grooves are flat- 



46 



Model Engineering 



tened. The ^^liitwortli thread is based on an isosceles 
triangle with the vertical angle eqnal to 55 degrees. The 
tops and bottoms of the grooves are rounded. The Briggs 
thread increases or decreases in diameter in passing from 
thread to thread. The thread is othermse something 
similar to the AMiitworth, only the triangle is eqniangnlar 
and the ronndings are on a much smaller radins of 
cnrvatnre. 

The cutting edges of the cutting tool which may be 
used to form any of the usual non-tapered threads is 
properly shaped to the exact form and size of the axial 



TOOL 





25A 25B 

Fig. 25A — Setting the tool for internal thread cutting 

Fig. 25B— The thread-cutting tool should be set at the exact center of 

the work 



section desired at the finish. That is, the flat horizontal 
top surface of the nose of the tool should have the re- 
quired form and size. The nose should also be so shaped 
that as the top is ground do^^ii from time to time for the 
purpose of sharpening the tool, the form and size of the 
thread section will be maintained. This shaping of the 
nose may be very accurately done at the beginning, before 
the tool goes into action. A gauge may be made of a 
piece of thin sheet steel by cutting a notch of the precise 
size and form of the thread wanted. AATien grinding the 
nose of the tool on the front and on the sides, this gauge 
may be used to test the work from time to time. The 
top surface of the nose is properly made flat and parallel 



Lathes and Lathe Work 47 

to the top and bottom surfaces of the shank. The object 
in view is to present to the work a cutting edge that is 
horizontal. If the parallelism is not provided, then we 
may expect the tool to cut a groove too narrow or too 
wide. If exact results are wanted, too much care can 
hardly be given to the grinding of the nose. Once ground 
to size and form, the regrinding should be comparatively 
simple, as all it is necessary to do is to maintain flatness 



, lead Screw 

I 




7 ^ 

Spindle'' 



Fig. 26 — The arrangement of the gear wheels at the end Of a screw- 
cutting lathe 



and parallelism with the shank. The size and form of the 
section will then be right. 

AVhen the tool is set, it is very important that it be 
horizontal and that the top surface of the nose be at the 
exact level of the axis of the work. If this requirement 
is disregarded, then we niay expect the thread to be 
wrong. Thus, if the top of the thread is to have a 60- 
degree angle and Ave set the tool too high or too low, 
then Ave Avill not get 60 degrees but something different. 
If the question is asked, '^Hoav is one to make sure he has 
the cutting edge at the exact level of the axis!" the fol- 
loA^g ansAver may be made : Put the centers in the head- 
stock and tail-stock of the lathe. Then bring the tool up 



48 Model Engineering 

close to each and note whether it is in agreement with 
the level of the points of the centers. There is still an- 
other requirement. The axis of the cutting edge and the 
axis of the shank should be exactly parallel. "\An;ien the 
tool is set, these axes must be perpendicular to the axis 
of the work. 

In order to cut the winding groove on the work, it is 
necessary that the tool shall move along parallel to the 
axis of the work while the latter is rotating. In fact, 
there must be a very exact correspondence between the 



,.eo^ 



P^^-^ 



i 



ilii 



Fig. 27 — How a thread-cutting tool should be ground 

forward or backward shift of the tool and the rotation 
^of the work. This shifting of the tool is ordinarily se- 
cured by means of the lead screw of the lathe. We put 
the carriage which supports the tool and tool post into 
the control of the lead screw. When the lead screw turns 
around once, the carriage and tool will be shifted exactly 
the amount of the pitch of the lead screw. That is to say, 
for example, if the lead screw has 6 threads to the inch, 
then the pitch will be exactly % inch. Suppose, now, that 
when the work turns around once, the lead screw also 
turns around once. Then, we should have the tool ad- 
vancing or receding % inch with every turn of the work. 
In fact, we should cut a thread of exactly the same pitch 
as that of the lead screw. But, if the work rotates faster 
than the lead screw, the tool mil be shifted too slowly to 
cut a thread of the same pitch. We should get a thread 
of a somewhat different pitch. Similarly, if the Avork 
rotates more slowly than the lead screw, the tool mil 
shift too rapidly to cut a thread of 6 convolutions to the 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



49 



inch. "We will get a coarser pitch, which means a smaller 
number of threads to the inch. It is possible to regulate 
the rotation of the lead screw relatively to the spindle 
of the lathe and get just about any pitch on the work 
that we desire. If we want 12 threads to the inch, then 
we must make the lead screw turn half as fast as the 
work or spindle. If we want 3 threads to the inch, then 
we must adjust the lead screw to rotate twice as rapidly 
as the work. 

The lead screw is usually driven by the spindle 
through gear wheels. It is not especially difficult to learn 




Fig. 28 — Testing threads with a small pocket gauge 



how the gears control the pitch of the screw thread we 
cut, and what gears to use in order to get a certain pitch 
that may be desired. Let A, Fig. 26, be a gear wheel on 
the spindle; C one on the lead screw; and B, an inter- 
mediate gear. First, consider B. It serves to keep the 
direction of rotation alike between spindle and lead 
screw. If the spindle gear A rotates ivith the hands of a 
clock, then the lead screw gear C will also rotate ivith 
the hands ; and vice versa. Second, the number of teeth 
on B plays no part in the relative speeds of A and C. 
For example, suppose A and C have, respectively, 32 
and 28 teeth, then a complete rotation of A will produce 



50 Model Engineering 

IVi rotations of C. It will make no difference whether 
B has 10 or 40 teeth. Consequently, any figuring we have 
to do will not need to take the intermediate gear into 
consideration. It simply serves to keep the rotation di- 
rections of A and C the same. 

Now suppose we want to cut 10 threads to the inch 
and that our lead screw has 6 threads to the inch. What 
must be done is to select proper gears for spindle and 
lead screw to give 10 turns of the spindle while we get 
6 turns of the lead screw. The gear A will be the smaller 
one. Further, the two gears must have the numbers of 
their teeth such that these numbers will be in the ratio 
6 : 10. If one has 18 teeth and the other 30, that will 
cover the case. Or, one could have 24 and the other 40. 
In fact, it doesn't matter what the numbers themselves 
are, just so that we have the right ratio, 6 : 10. Then 
we put the smaller one on the spindle and the larger one 
on the lead screw. It may be helpful to recollect that 
the more slowly the lead screw turns, the finer the thread 
will be. 

Take another case. Suppose we want to cut a coarse 
thread 5 turns to the inch. This is coarser than the 
thread on the lead screw itself. Consequently, we want 
the lead screw to turn more rapidly than the spindle or 
the work. This means that the smaller gear must go on 
the lead screw. All that remains to do is to select gears 
for lead screw and spindle that are in the ratio 5 : 6, put 
the bigger one on the spindle and the smaller one on the 
lead screw; and select an intermediate gear to make it 
possible for the one to drive the other. Gears having 10 
and 12 teeth, 15 and 18, 20 and 24, 25 and 30, etc., are 
all suitable. 

If the lead screw has a right hand thread, an inter- 
mediate gear, or some equivalent, will be needed when 
we want to cut a right hand thread. However, a right 
hand lead screw and no intermediate gear, or else two 



Lathes and Lathe Work 51 

of them, will cut a left hand thread. A right hand thread 
is cut by advancing from right to left, and a left hand 
thread by advancing in the opposite direction. 

The work may be held on the lathe between centers 
or it may be held by a chnck. In general, work carried 
between centers may be cnt more accurately than if the 
chnck carries it. This is due largely or entirely to the 
double support. It is a good rule when working with a 
chuck on the head-stock never to take the work, out be- 
tween the beginning and end of all turning operations. 
This would apply to cutting screw threads. In fact, it 
would probably be quite difficult, if not impossible, to 
cut a reasonably perfect thread, if the work is disturbed 
when half done. 

Before cutting a thread between centers, it is ad- 
visable to make sure that the centers themselves are 
right. The point of a center should be exactly on the 
axis of the center. The levels of the two centers must 
be exactly alike. To test this, the screw cutting tool may 
be set in the tool post and the carriage run to one center 
and then to the other for the purpose of setting the tool 
for height at one and of testing the other center for 
agreement with this level. It may not be out of place 
here to say a few words about centers. The work turns 
about the tailstock center. It is advisable, then, to pre- 
pare the hole in the work at the tail-stock and so that the 
point of the center and the metal of the work mil not 
be in actual contact. This may be done by first prepar- 
ing a conical hole to fit the center and then counter- 
boring it at the bottom with a small drill. This drill 
hole, if deep enough, tends to prevent damage to the 
center jioint either by wear or by friction. It is well to 
counterbore the other end of the work also. Fig. 11 will 
make this very clear. 

If an interior thread is to be cut, we will naturally 
have to use a tool somewhat different from the plain 



52 Model Engineering 

straight tool for cutting exterior threads. A suitable 
tool for a considerable range of work is one with a right- 
angle bend in it near the nose end. We are then able 
to move the tool back and forth in the hole. Aside from 
the bend, the tool may be precisely the same as the one 
already described. It is very essential that the flat top 
of the nose shall be set at the exact level of the axis of 
the work and that the axis of the flat top be exactly at 
right angles with the axis of the shank. This latter re- 
quirement is the one, perhaps, that will make the most 
difficulty. It will be well to have a substantial shank so 
that the stress of cutting will be well resisted. This re- 
sistance may be increased, also, by shortening the dis- 
tance from the bend to the point where the tool holder 
grasps the shank. 

Whether we cut an interior or an exterior thready 
the tool will naturally wear. This wear should be con- 
fined to the edge of the top. To sharpen the tool and 
perhaps better its shape, it is reground on the top sur- 
face of the nose. The final surface should be exactly 
parallel with the top and bottom surfaces of the shank. 
Naturally, a reground tool will not have its cutting edge 
at the proper level, but below it, unless we take special 
measures for correcting the level. This we may often 
do by simply putting a strip of thin sheet metal beneath 
the shank in the tool holder. 

A little consideration will perhaps convince the read- 
er that when we screw one thread into another, it is 
not so important that the top of one thread shall touch 
the bottom of the other as that the body of one thread 
shall fit snugly into the groove of the other. In fact, we 
may have the case where the top of neither thread 
reaches quite to the bottom of the other and still not 
have any noticeable defect. If the top edge of a screw 
thread is somewhat worn, we may not be able to tell its 
real diameter by measuring the over-all diameter. It 



Lathes and Lathe Work 53 

will, sometimes at least, be best to rely on what is called 
the pitch diameter. This is the average between the 
diameter measured from top to top of the thread and 
the diameter from bottom to bottom of the groove. It is 
really the distance from half way between top and bot- 
tom on one side to half way between top and bottom on 
the other. This is a matter of some importance for the 
reason that it may be necessary sometimes to take off 
the top edges of 60-degree V-threads to prevent trouble 
when screwing into each other. Indeed it is good prac- 
tice both mth the sharp V-thread and the U. S. Standard 
to cut off a trifle at the top of the thread, provided the 
thread is not to be case hardened. There is the advan- 
tage that a close fit can then probably be better made 
than otherwise. The reason for thinking so is this: 
Very slight differences between the two threads will then 
have an opportunity for rectification, the metal having a 
chance to flow into the open space. That is, the two 
threads can force each other a trifle. 

'V\'Tiere a good deal of work of one size has to be done, 
it may be well to use taps and dies. There are taps for 
use on a power-driven machine and taps for hand use. 
Similarly, with dies. In general, accurate thread cutting 
should not be attempted with hand-operated tools. It is, 
for one thing, too difficult to be sure tha-t the axis of the 
tool and the axis of the work are exactly in line during 
the operation. 

We now come to the question — How are we to deter- 
mine whether our threads are right or not ! We may try 
one with the other. But this is by no means reliable. 
Two threads that properly fit together bear against each 
other throughout. Thus a nut and a bolt when the one 
is screwed onto the other should so fit round and round 
the thread that a strain tending to pull the nut off would 
be resisted by all the convolutions in engagement and 
not by one or two only. It is possible, however, for one 



54 



3Iodel Engineering 



to fit a nut and screw together without being able to tell 
whether there is bearing of thread against thread 
throughout. If the thread in the nut has a pitch a trifle 
longer than that on the screw, the nut might seem to 
have a proper fit Avhen tried merely by screwing it on, 




Fig. 29 — A face plate for a small lathe 



because of the contact of threads at the two ends. We 
could, if the screAV thread goes further inward, test the 
matter of unequal pitch by trying to screw the nut in 
further. If the resistance is strong — stronger than when 
we were simply putting the nut on — then we probably 
have a case of inequality in pitch. 

However, there is a very simple instrument by means 
of which we can determine whether the pitch of the screw 
agrees with the standard required or not. This is a 
short strip of thin metal on one edge of which teeth 
somewhat like those of a saw have been cut. These are 
really the axial sections of the grooves desired on the 
screw. AVhen held so as to fit into the valleys on top of 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



55 



a horizontally held screw, a very minute error in pitch 
can be readily detected, especially if the light is back of 
the device. The nse of this tool is shown in Fig. 28. It 
is understood that a good gauge of this type Avill enable 
a beginner to detect a pitch error of only 0.005 inch. 
These gauges are not to be confused with the ordinary 
pitch-gauge used simply to tell whether the screw has 
12 or 13 threads to the inch or the like. Precision pitch 
gauges are tested to a high degree of accuracy — one con- 
cern, at least, claiming an accuracy of 0.0001 inch. They 
are not so applicable to interior threads. But the gauge 
may be applied to the tap, if one has been used to make 
the interior thread. If the thread has been cut on the 
lathe, then we may have to depend a good deal upon the 







COU) BOULtD STEEL-CA5e HARDEM 

3 eeQb 



Fig. 30 — Back rest made for a small lathe 



fact that we used the same combination of gears for 
screw and hole. 

Many amateur mechanics have small lathes in their 
workshops which are very limited in their application, 
owing to the fact that they are not provided with many 
of the attachments that are found on larger machines. 



56 Model Engineering 

The following paragraphs- describe a few useful appli- 
ances that may be easily made and attached to the origi- 
nal small lathe and will increase its usefulness consid- 
erably. 

The drawing, Fig. 29, shows a face plate which is 
made up from cast iron. The slots are cut and the center 
hole is left smaller than the diameter of the nose of the 
spindle so it can be bored out later and threaded. Quar- 
ter-inch holes are then drilled and tapped as shown in 
the sketch. It will be necessary to locate these holes 
systematically about the surface of the plate and the 
more holes it contains the easier it will be to clamp odd 
shaped work to it, as in boring, etc. The center hole of 
the face plate must be drilled and threaded to fit the 
lathe spindle and this will, of course, depend upon the 
size of the spindle on the lathe the plate is to be attached 
to. The mechanic who has a very small lathe will 
find it quite impossible to do turning on the face plate 
with his own machine and will therefore find it neces- 
sary to take the work to a local shop which is equipped 
with a screw-cutting lathe. While the face plate is 
fastened on the same lathe on which it is being threaded, 
the back hub must be faced off so it will run true with 
the thread. It is best to turn the face plate off when 
it is in position on the small lathe on which it is to be 
used to make sure that it is running true. After the 
rough turning is done, the face plate can be polished up 
and finished. 

Another useful attachment is the back rest, shown in 
Fig. 30, and this is of very simple design. The standard 
is made of cast iron and the bottom, which fits in the 
bed, can be either filed or milled. While it would be very 
practical to have the job done on a milling machine, if 
the mechanic does not have access to such a machine he 
can file the casting if a little patience and care is exer- 
cised. The jaws of the back rest are made of machinery 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



57 



steel and the slots can be cut in them by drilling holes 
down the center. The superfluous metal can be filed out 
to finish the slots. After this casting is finished, it is 
advisable to have it case-hardened so it Avill resist wear. 
When it is fastened to the bed of the lathe, the bolts on 
the tee rest can be used. One side of the head is cut 
away and this keeps it from turning. A regular nut is 
used for tightening it on the bottom. The screws for the 
slots of the jaws are provided with a hexagonal head 




DRILL PAD 



Fig. 31 — An easily made drill pad for a model maker's lathe 



which permits the use of a wrench to tighten them. The 
heads of the screws should also have a slot in them 
so that a screw^ driver can be used for preliminary 
tightening. 

A small drill pad is illustrated which can be easily 
made for the tail stock of the lathe and which will enable 
the mechanic to do drilling operations on his machine. 
The pad proper is made of cast iron and the workman 
can easily make up a pattern of this and have it cast at 
a local foundry, as the pattern can be turned out with 
very little trouble on a small lathe. The casting is pro- 



58 



Model Engineering 



vided with a No. Morse Taper. After the shank is 
fastened to the pad it is again put between centers and 
the front of the pad is faced off and finished. This will 
insure an accurate hole when the pad is being used. 
When the pad is completely finished, it may be well to 
enamel the back of it, as this surface is not used. 




Fig. 32 — Grinding disc made to attach to a small lathe spindle 



The small plunger will be found very useful in pre- 
venting light pieces from turning when they are being 
drilled. In case some large plate surface is being drilled, 
the spring on the plunger Avill allow it to come back and 
permit the work to lie flat on the pad. Care should be 
taken to see that the w^ork used against the plunger is 
not too heavy, as this would force the spindle considera- 
bly, as the only thing that would keep it from turning is 
a small screw. 

A very convenient tool is shown in Fig. 33. This is 
a lead hammer which is very useful in knocking work in 
and out of the arbors. The nose of the hammer is very 
soft and yet sufficiently heavy to give it the proper mo- 
mentum. The handle of the device can be used as a ram 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



59 



in the head stock spindle to drive out the various attach- 
ments that fit in this member. 

In constructing the tools outlined in the above para- 
graphs, the mechanic should experience no trouble in 
obtaining the castings, as the patterns can be easily pro- 
duced in the Avorkshop. The face-plate and drill pad 
can be turned out on the lathe, and the back rest will 
have to be built up. 

The small grinding disc sho^ATi in Fig. 32 can be very 
easily made and is an extremely useful tool when at- 
tached to the spindle of the small lathe, as many grind- 
ing and surfacing operations can then be performed 
which would otherAvise be impossible. The disc is cast 
by means of the same pattern that Avas used in the pro- 







\ 








* 




1 


1 










CR.STtEU-i 


1 

ll 


.- 












Si 






1 




■■ ■ % 


^ — ■ - 






•— UCAO 






f- 


I 






i-Ol*-, 




2 " 








- «JJ . _ 



Fig. 33 — A lead lathe hammer with a steel handle 



duction of the face plate, previously described. No holes 
are drilled in the plate, hoAvever, as its surface must be 
machined and finished smooth. The hub is threaded to 
fit the spindle of the lathe and a hexagonal nut is also 
made to fit the spindle. 

After the plate is made, it should be mounted on the 
spindle and, Avith the lathe running at high speed, it 



60 



Model Engineering 



should be given a good polishing with fine emery cloth. 
The abrasive paper or cloth is held to its surface by 
means of beeswax. 




rig. 34 — General arrangement of the lathe and motor within the cabinet 

In doing this, the grinding disc is set in motion at a 
high speed and the beeswax is pressed to the surface. 
The heat of friction will cause the beeswax to melt and a 
thin film of it will be deposited upon the polished sur- 



B/^LL BEARINGS IN 
WOOD PEOESTrqL^ 




Fig. 35 — Side view of the lathe cabinet 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



61 



face of the disc. After this fihn is deposited^ a disc of 
abrasive paper is then held tightly against the surface 
while it is revolving. 

For the model engineer who lives in a small flat, with 
little available space for a workshop, the outfit described 
in the following paragraphs will be of great interest. It 




HHNDLEl- 
Fig. 36 — Showing the front of the cabinet 



is a description of a portable lathe cabinet that may be 
kept in the living room when not in use, and when put 
on the kitchen table, opened and connected to the electric 
light socket, forms a complete motor-driven lathe equip- 
ment capable of wood turning, metal turning, polishing, 
grinding, drilling, and numerous other lathe operations. 
The capacity of the lathe is small and the work that may 
be done on it is somewhat limited, though sufficient for 
model making. 

The cabinet is made of cedar, % inch thick, the boards 
having been secured by tearing apart an old cedar chest 
that had been discarded. This made it possible to pro- 



62 Model Engineering 

Tide an exterior shellac finish that presents a good ap- 
pearance when the cabinet is closed. Iron strap hinges 
are nsed for hinging the end, top, and front pieces. 
Brass handles are provided at the ends to facilitate 
liandling it, and incidentally, they add to the general 




Fig. 37 — The lathe cabinet open, ready for work 

appearance. Brass dowel pins are nsed to hold the ends 
of the cabinet in perfect alignment with the top when it 
is closed. These are not shown on the drawing. Iron 
brackets are used to stiffen the back. It will be fonnd 
desirable to provide fonr small rubber feet to prevent 
marring the table upon which it is placed when in use. 

The lathe used is a ^^Goodell Pratt," No. 29. It has 
a swing of 5 inches and the extreme distance between 
centers is 3% inches. The appliances used with it are 
as follows : 

Face plate. Saw arbor. 

Drill chuck. Grinding wheel. 

Three- jaw scroll chuck. Buffing wheel. 

The cone pulley has two steps for a %-inch flat belt. 
The speeds of the lathe spindle range from 1,800 to 2,700 
B.P.M. The motor is a small one of the universal type. 
This makes possible the use of alternating or direct cur- 
rent at 110 volts and develops }^oth H.P. 



Lathes and Lathe Work 



63 



The maximum speed of the motor is approximately 
1,200 R.P.M. When first placed in the cabinet, the high 
speed at which it operates caused it to be noisy and it 
was found necessary to mount it on rubber to reduce 
this noise. 




Fig. 38 — The cabinet closed and locked 

The countershaft is % inches in diameter and has 
ball-bearings mounted in wood pedestals. The ball-bear- 
ings are of a standard type and fit into counter-bored 
holes in the pedestals. The hubs of the pulleys on the 



V 




Fig. 39 — View of the open cabinet from the end 



shaft fit against the ball-bearings, thus holding them in 
place. 

The pulleys are of standard manufacture, there being 
a grooved pulley 4 inches in diameter which is connected 



64 Model Engineering 

to the l-inch motor pulley with a round leather belt, and 
two %-inch face pulleys 1% inches and 2 inches in diam- 
eter from which the lathe spindle is driven. 

The countershaft and motor are mounted on a wood 
hase which is bolted to the base board of the cabinet. 
The bolt holes are slotted, thus making it possible to take 




Fig. 40 — Showing the driving motor 

up slack in the lathe belt by moving the countershaft and 
the motor. 

The rheostat is just behind the lathe where it can be 
reached conveniently by the operator. Near it is a snap 
switch which controls the entire current supply to the 
motor. Either this or the rheostat, or both, may be used 
as the operator mshes. 

If the builder desires, he can arrange a small rack on 
the back of the cabinet to hold various tools and attach- 
ments for the lathe. If such a rack is made, it wilLbe 
necessary to so design it that the tools will be held in 
place while the cabinet is being taken from place to 
place. 



CHAPTER III 

DRILLS AND DRILLING 

Marking work for drilling — How to sharpen drills for various metals — 
Speed of drill for different work — Description of twist drills and 
names of parts — Using the V-Block. 

Drilling generally forms an essential operation in 
the construction of anything the model engineer makes, 
and knowing how to drill accurately and properly is a 
distinct asset that every amateur mechanic should avail 
himself of. 

In the following paragraphs will be found a short 
but practical treatise on the subject of drilling which has 
been prepared for that class of readers who have never 
had the opportunity of becoming learned in general ma- 
chine shop practice. 

Unless the holes are to be drilled promiscuously, 
measuring and marking constitute the first operation in 
drilling any object. As a means of illustrating, we will 
assume that we have a brass plate 3 inches square and 
1/4 inch thick to be drilled with holes of various sizes. 
With the exception of the method of sharpening the 
drills, the drilling of a piece of brass is no different than 
the drilling of any other metal. 

The tools necessary for marking are a rule, a pair of 
dividers, a center punch and a scribe. The scribe, which 
is merely a sharp-pointed piece of steel used to scratch 
marks on metallic surfaces, can be made from an old 
round file ground dovm. on a wheel. A center punch can 
also be made in the same way. The rule is a steel one 
of the machinists' type and the dividers need not be 
larger than four-inch. 

65 



66 



Model Engineering 



TI16 brass plate is to be drilled as sllo\^^l in Fig. 41. 
The first operation will be that of finding the exact cen- 
ter, and this can easily be done by scratching two lines 
as sho^^^l in Fig. 42. (Do not scratch the lines too deeply, 
as they will have to be papered off when the drilling is 
done.) At the point where the lines intersect, a small 
indentation is made with the center pnnch, as this is the 
exact center and all fntnre measurements will be made 
from this. "We will now measure for the holes in the 
corners. As they are 1% inches from the center, we 
will open the dividers to 1% inches, and with one point 





Fig. 41 Fig. 42 

Fig. 41 — How the pla1# is to be drilled 
Fig. 42 — Finding the exact center 
Fig. 43 — Locating the holes 



in the center, scratch a small arc in each corner of the 
plate so it crosses the line we first drew. This is shown 
in Fig. 43. With the dividers open to % inch and the 
point in the center, two arcs are marked as shol^m for 
the tAvo small holes which are to be % inch from the 
center. At each point where the arcs intersect the two 
original lines, make a small indentation with the center 
pnnch. 

With the dividers open % inch, scratch a circle in 
the center of the plate and within the circle draM^ another 
one, about half the size of the first one. Also scratch a 
small circle at each corner and for the two small holes 
jnst off the center. These circles are an aid in drilling, 
and their use will be described later. 



Drills and Drilling 67 

Before describing the actual drilling of the brass 
plate, a few lines will be devoted to the twist drill and 
how to nse and sharpen it for different classes of work. 

First, let it be known to every amateur mechanic that 
it is absolutely impossible to drill accurately unless the 
drill has been sharpened properly — with mechanical ex- 
actness. In order to sharpen a drill in the proper way, 
an elementary understanding of its working principles 
is essential. 

Fig. 44 shows an ordinary twist drill together with 
the names of its various parts. It will be noted that 
there is a pronounced clearance between the cutting 
edge A and the back edge B. Both cutting edges of a 
drill should be at exactly the same angle and the clear- 
ances on each side should also be as nearly equal as 
it is possible to make them. In sharpening a drill, 
the angle of the lip clearance must be left to the judg- 
ment of the mechanic, and care should be taken that it 
is not too great, as this will cause the drill to bite too 
greedily. Equally defective is a drill mthout enough 
clearance between the cutting edge and the back edge, 
as it will heat up excessively and also cause the flute 
edges to wear rapidly, thereby throA\dng the drill out of 
caliber. To those who are not experienced in grinding 
drills, the writer would suggest studying the clearance 
on new drills of various sizes. This Avill be found to be 
very helpful. In grinding the small drills (Nos. 60 to 
80), care need not be taken in rounding off the clearance, 
as a flat clearance will suffice. Small drills should be 
ground on wheels of fine grit. 

If the clearance on each side of a drill is not equal, 
it is impossible to drill accurately with it, as it will "have 
a tendency to revolve eccentrically, owing to unequal 
pressure, and thereby produce a hole considerably larger 
than the gauge of the drill. 

AVhen a drill is to be used for drilling brass or cast 



68 



Model Engineering 



iron, it should not be sharpened in the ordinary manner. 
The lip of the drill should be ground off as sho^^^l in Fig. 
47. Aside from the advantage of cutting faster, this 
prevents the drill from worming its way just as it breaks 
through at the end of the bore. 

Assuming that the drills are accurately and properly 
sharpened for the drilling of brass, we will now describe 



Weh 



Bacn £Jg^ 




back EJi^e- 



Fig. 44 — A twist drill with the names of the various parts 



the procedure in boring the holes in the brass plate. The 
large center hole shall be the first one drilled. It would 
be very bad practice to start drilling this hole with a 
3^-inch drill, as the web of such a drill is so broad that 
it is a very difficult matter to accurately ** center" it. 
The only way to overcome this disadvantage is to start 
the hole with a drill of smaller gauge — in this case a 



Drills and Drilling 



69 



%-incli drill will do nicely. It is at this point that the 
circles scratched on the plate come into nse. Place the 
%-inch drill in the chuck, start the press and bring the 




Fig. 45 — Showing the use of a * * V-Block' 



spindle down until the drill touches the center dot. Per- 
mit the drill to go just far enough to drill the dot off, 
then raise the spindle, and, by means of the small circle 
scratched on the plate, see if the tiny indentation made 



70 



Model Engineering 



is exactly in the center, nsing the circle as a guide. If it 
is properly centered, drill jnst a little further (do not 
permit the point of the drill to go very far below the 
surface) and follow out the same operation on each cor- 
ner. When the %-inch hole in the center is drilled, go 
cautiously until the drill is centered accurately, and do 




Fig. 46 — Plate showing the holes started after the circles are made 



not bore right through the plate without raising the spin- 
dle several times to see that the drill is in the exact cen- 
ter. Fig. 46 will make this clear. 

Those amateur mechanics who have tried to drill a 
transverse hole in a piece of roun^ stock know what a 
difficult matter it is to do it accurately. This can easily 
be accomplished, however, by the use of a V-block, and, 
as these can be purchased for a few cents, the mechanic 
is urged to procure one. Their use is shoAvn in the pho- 
tograph. Fig. 45. In^the event the mechanic desires to 
make one for himself, it can easily be done on a shaper, 
and the sides of the groove are cut at exactly 45 degrees. 

The rate of feed and speed for small bench drills 
should vary with the diameter of the drill and the hard- 
ness of the metal being drilled. As a general rule, small 
drills should be run at high speed and larger ones at 
lower speed. An easy method of obtaining the approxi- 



Drills and Drilling 71 

mate speed is that of dividing 80, 110 and 180 by the 
diameter of the drill, which gives the number of revolu- 
tions per minute for steel, cast iron and brass, respec- 
tively. In drilling wrought iron or steel, the drill should 
be flooded with oil or cutting compound (soap and water 



Groand to go' 




Fig. 47 — How to grind a twist drill for drilling brass or cast iron 

make a good substitute). Brass, copper and cast iron 
should be drilled dry. 

When grinding a drill, be careful not to *^burn" it by 
holding it on the wheel too long without dipping it in a 
convenient receptacle of cold water. ^^ Burning" a drill 
means excessively heating it until it loses its hardness. 



CHAPTER IV 

SOFT AND HARD SOLDERING 

How to make soft solder adhere — Soldering fluxes — Preparation of metal- 
lic surfaces to receive solder — Methods of holding work while solder 
is being applied — Information on silver soldering — Silver soldering 
outfit — Composition of silver solder — Application of silver solder. 

Soldering, both liard and soft, is an important 
operation with which the model engineer will have to 
become very familiar. Both processes require extensive 
practice to become proficient in, but this should not dis- 
courage the model maker, as it is quite possible to do 
good work with a little practice, providing the directions 
are followed carefully and the necessary precautions to 
insure success are taken. It may be that the first two 
or three jobs of silver soldering or brazing will not be 
entirely successful, but after the model maker has made 
a few experiments along this line, no difficulty will be 
experienced in doing good work, which, although it may 
not be perfect, will serve its purpose. 

Before treating the subject of hard soldering, a few 
words will be devoted to the art of soft soldering. The 
most important part of soft soldering is that of properly 
preparing the surfaces to be soldered and holding them 
rigidly in place while the solder is being applied. The 
patience of a beginner in soldering is often exhausted 
when the solder is applied to the surface and repeatedly 
rolls off without adhering to the metal. Many unkind 
words are very apt to be said about the various imple- 
ments employed and the art of soldering in general, un- 
der these circumstances, but the workman may rest as- 
sured that it is no fault of the solder he is using and, 
nine times out of ten, it is the method of applying it. 

72 



Soft and Hard Soldering 



73 



Before solder is applied to a metallic surface, the 
surface should first be scraped perfectly clean Avith a 
small tool that can be easily ground into shape from an 
old file. Although the surface should be clean and 
bright, it is not necessary to scrape excessively until a 
noticeable depression is formed in the metal. The sur- 
faces should be scraped just before the worker is ready 




Fig. 48 — A simple alcohol torch for soldering 



to apply the solder, as long standing will produce a thin 
film of oxide, to which solder does not readily adhere. 
Once the surface is cleaned, it should not be touched with 
the fingers, as this always leaves grease upon the sur- 
face no matter how clean the hands are kept. After the 
scraping is done and the soldering copper is heated, the 
flux should be applied. A good flux for soft soldering 
can be prepared by dissolving small pieces of zinc in 



74 



Model Engineering 



hydrocliloric acid. When this is done, a violent chemi- 
cal reaction takes place between the zinc and the acid, 
which results in the formation of a solution of zinc 
chloride. This is kept in a small glass bottle and applied 
with a small bristle brush or wooden dauber. In making 
this solution, the zinc should be added to the acid until 
no more chemical action takes place. 

With the surface prepared according to the foregoing 
directions, and with the flux in place, the solder is ready 




5/cite. 



Charcoal Block 



Fig. 49 — A silver solderiiig outfit 



to be applied. Solder in the form of a heavy mre is the 
most convenient to use, especially for the beginner. The 
copper should be brought in contact with the work and 
the solder fed to the tip or point of the copper as fast 
as it melts and runs. If it melts at the instant it touches 
the copper, this indicates that the copper is far too hot, 
and this is a common mistake of many beginners. The 
copper should be just hot enough for the solder to melt 
after it has been i'U contact with it for a short time. 
After the solder has attached itself to the metal, it may 



Soft and Hard Soldering 75 

appear very uneven in places, and to remedy this the 
hot copper is rnn lightly over the joint to even the de- 
pressions and projections. In heating the soldering cop- 
per, the tip or end should not be placed directly in con- 
tact with the flame, as this burns the tin off and renders 
it more or less unsuitable for use. The upper part of 
the copper may be exposed to the flame and the tip will 
be heated by the thermal conductivity of the metal, which, 
by the Avay, is very high. 

Although it is quite necessary to employ the ordinary 
soldering copper in many cases, the best and most effec- 
tive method is that of applying the heat directly to the 
surfaces to be joined together. The heat may be sup- 
plied by an alcohol lamp, gasoline blow torch or a Bun- 
sen burner. The flame used must be free from soot, 
otherwise it will contaminate the surface and render it 
impervious to solder. After the metal is heated in the 
flame, the solder is applied by bringing it in contact 
with the heated metal and holding it there until it melts 
and runs into place. The joint should be given plenty 
of time to cool before it is handled roughly. Many times 
it is necessary to bind the pieces together that are to be 
soldered with iron wire. This holds them rigidly in 
place until after the solder has thoroughly cooled. In 
employing the method of direct heating in inaccessible 
corners, it is best to use a small alcohol burner such as 
that shown in Fig. 48. This can be made with very little 
trouble and serves its purpose well. It merely consists 
of a small metal container with a cotton mck in it, at the 
end of which the alcohol burns. A small metal tube is 
soldered to the container so that the end of it comes di- 
rectly over the wick. By blowing into the tube, the flame- 
can be greatly extended and directed to any part of the 
work at hand. There is one precaution necessary in 
soldering by the direct application of heat : The two ob- 
jects to be soldered together must both be at the same 



76 



Model Engineering 



temperature. If a small piece and a large piece of metal 
are to be soldered together, the small piece is very apt 
to become heated much more quickly than the larger 
piece, and the piece that is heated to the greatest tem- 
perature will absorb most solder. This should be pre- 
vented as far as possible, and can be avoided in many 
cases by heating the larger piece first. 

In soldering; certain objects, it is sometimes practi- 
cal to first wire them together so that they will hold the 
position that they are to be soldered together in. Of 



Pieces of Silver^ 
Solder 





Boiler 

rig. 50 — Right: How the silver solder is laid on the "boiler. Left: A 

finished job 



course, the pieces should be so wired that the wire will 
in no way interfere with the soldering. The wire should 
not be removed until the work has cooled sufficiently, 
otherwise the job is very apt to be spoiled. 

Many times it is necessary to ^^tin" a piece of metal 
before soldering it to another piece, and this operation 
is very easily done by placing tiny pieces of solder about 
the surface of the piece and then heating it in a flame 
until the solder melts. By means of a wire brush or 
small stick, the molten solder should be spread over the 
surface. A piece of metal so prepared may very easily 
be soldered. 

Good soldering — and soldering attended with the 
least possible difficulties — depends largely upon the 



Soft and Hard Soldering 77 

' ' flux "or * * paste ^ ' emplo^^ed. Many mechanics "use their 
favorite preparation, made according to their own for- 
mula, and others prefer the standard market articles, of 
which there are many that can be recommended. Ordi- 
nary resin is best suited for electrical Avork, owing to the 
fact that it will not corrode the wire and produces a very 
dependable connection from the electrical standpoint. 
Many patented preparations on the market are also 




Fig. 51 — Proper method of holding a soldering copper and solder 

very suitable for electrical soldering. If resin is used, it 
should be ground up into a very fine powder and sprin- 
kled on the surfaces to be soldered together. Owing to 
the fact that resin is very soluble in alcohol, a solution 
of it may be made and applied to the metal in this way 
by means of a small brush. Immediately this prepara- 
tion is exposed to the atmosphere, the alcohol evaporates 
and a very thin film of finely divided resin is deposited 
upon the surface of the metal. 



78 Model Engineering 

The process of silver soldering is much more difficult 
than that of soft soldering, and requires more patience 
and experience to produce good work. The various tools 
and materials used in the process of hard soldering or 
silver soldering are sho^^Ti in Fig. 49. The outfit, al- 
though not elaborate, will enable the model maker to do 
very good work. It is not the outfit that is so important, 
but rather its intelligent use. The heat used in silver 
soldering must be very intense and, for large pieces of 
work, it is necessary to employ a big flame. The or- 
dinary gasolene blow torch produces a very good flame 
for this work and it has sufficient heat to melt the solder. 
The use of the various tools and materials illustrated 
will now be explained. The acid pickle is made by mix- 
ing 1 part of sulphuric acid with 20 parts water. After 
an object has been silver soldered and cooled sufficiently, 
it is immersed in this pickle, which thoroughly cleans it 
and removes all traces of the borax used. This pickle is 
also used when the work is dirty and greasy, as the solder 
will not adhere to such a surface, and it is first necessary 
to clean the metal in this solution. The charcoal block is 
used to place the work upon while the soldering is being 
done. The object of this block is to return the heat to 
the work and this helps greatly in making the operation 
more rapid. In many cases, however, it is quite impos- 
sible to employ this block, even though its use would 
greatly help the work. The borax is used as a soldering 
flux just as resin is employed in ordinary soft soldering. 
The borax is moistened and rubbed on the slate, which 
produces a paste of borax and water. This is painted 
on the metal to be soldered at the point where the solder- 
ing is to be done. The use of the small scraper shown is 
obvious. The blowpipe is used on very small work where 
an alcohol lamp is employed as the source of heat. 

Silver solder consists of brazing spelter (brass) and 
pure metallic silver mixed in varying proportions. The 



Soft and Hard Soldering 



79 



percentage of the metals in the composition determines 
the melting point, and this may be anywhere from 700° F. 
to 2000° F. The higher the solder melts, the stronger 
the joint it produces will be, and vice versa. For model 
boiler work, a solder with a comparatively high melting 
point should be used. There are other cases where a 
mixture with a low melting point can be used to advan- 
tage. One thing must be kept in mind, however, and 
this is the necessity of usino- a solder that is not too close 




Fig. 52 — The end of a boiler wired in place ready for silver soldering 



to the melting point of the metals that it is to be used 
upon. A good solder to use in connection with copper 
consists of two parts silver to one part of brass in the 
form of brazing spelter. A good mixture for work mth 
brass consists of seven parts of silver to two parts of 
brazing spelter. Silver solder in sheet form can gen- 
erally be purchased from large jewelers' supply houses. 
The mechanic can melt up his own ingredients and roll 
it out into a sheet if he desires. This is the most suitable 



80 Model Engineering 

form to use it in, as it does not require such a great length 
of time to melt. 

Assuming that the end of a small boiler is to be silver 
soldered into place, the process will be briefly outlined 
so the mechanic can obtain an understanding of just 
how to proceed. If the metal to be worked upon is very 
dirty, it will first be necessary to immerse it in the acid 
pickle to completely remove all foreign matter from its 
surface. It may also be necessary to scrape the surface 
with the smaller tool made for that purpose from an old 
file. The end piece is then put in place and held there 
by means of iron wire. A little of the borax is then pre- 
pared and that portion of the metal which is to receive 
the solder on the inside is covered with a thin film of it 
by applying it with the brush. Small squares of the 
silver solder are then cut with tinner's snips and laid in 
places about the bottom of the boiler as near the con- 
tacting surfaces as possible. The boiler is then placed 
upon the charcoal block and heated. The heat is not 
applied directly to that part to be soldered at first, as 
this would cause the water in the borax to boil and 
would be apt to dislodge the small squares of solder that 
were put in place. Instead, the heat is first applied to 
the top of the work, and the bottom will become gradu- 
ally heated by conduction. After the borax has become 
sufficiently dried, the flame may be applied directly to 
the work and held there until the solder melts and runs 
into place. If the end of the boiler was to be soldered 
in place from the outside, the solder would be put in 
place as shown. If a gasoline torch is used to heat the 
work, it should not be brought too close, as the full heat 
of the flame will not be utilized if this is done. On the 
other hand, if the flame is held too far away, the soot 
will be deposited upon the metal and it will then be 
necessary to again clean and prepare the surface. After 
the solder has melted, the flame should be held on the 



Soft and Hard Soldering 81' 

Avork for a few minntes, as this tends to produce a 
stronger joint. The work is alloAved to cool and it is 
then placed in the pickle and permitted to remain there 
at least five minutes, after which it is removed and rinsed 
in clean water. In some cases, the part to be silver 
soldered may be qnite inaccessible, and a small steel rod, 
vdWi the end split, may be employed to hold the solder 
if it is in the form of a sheet. The work can then be 
heated to the proper temperature and the solder held 
in place by means of the rod until it melts and runs. 

A good silver solder for model work on thin brass 
sheet can be made b}^ mixing twelve parts of silver and 
one part of brass together. This has a comparatively 
low melting point and is called ^ ^ quick '^ for this reason. 
Another mixture which is very good for ordinary work 
consists of six parts silver to one part spelter or brass. 
This has a much higher melting point than that described 
previously, but it is much more suitable for some work. 
In mixing these solders, the mechanic should use care 
to see that the metals employed are very clean before 
they are melted together, and it is always safe to clean 
them with emerv cloth before doing this. 



CHAPTER V 

HAKDEI^ING AND TEMPEKII^G STEEL 

Simple experiments in the tempering of steel — Proper temperature for 
tempering to various degrees of hardness — Case hardening — Carbona- 
ceous material employed — Proper heating — Notes on case hardening 
furnaces. 

In model building and experimental work it often 
becomes necessary to harden a piece of steel and temper 
it to a definite degree of hardness or soften a hard piece 
snch as a spring so it can be drilled or machined and a 
few simple experiments in heat treatment of steel are 
sufficient to enable one to obtain the desired results. 

Secure a piece of spring steel Avire about %2 inch in 
diameter and 3 feet long. Heat about 2 feet of it to a 
dark red color and allow it to cool sloAvly in the air. 
This will anneal the wire so it can be hammered easily. 
Hammer it flat to a thickness of about %2 inch and smooth 
the surfaces by grinding or filing. Heat the flattened 
end of the wire to a light yellow color and let the red 
color extend about 3 inches from the end, allowing a 
gradual change in color from the end to this point. Cool 
the wire quickly by dipping it suddenly (endwise) into 
water as soon as the desired color has appeared. 

AYith a pair of pliers or vise, break off about % inch 
of the end of the hardened piece and notice the grain of 
the fracture. Break a second piece and compare it with 
the first, then a third, etc., till the wire bends without 
breaking, comparing each fracture with the previous 
ones. You will notice that the part of the metal which 
was the hottest is always the most brittle and breaks 
easier than the part which was colder. At some point 

82 



Hardening and Tempering Steel 



83 



between these two extremes there is a fracture which is 
of fine grain and has a silky appearance. That part of 
the metal which shows the finest silky grain and is too 
hard to be filed was heated to the proper temperature. 

Kepeat the operation, this time trying to heat about 
5 inches of the piece to the proper temperature, w^hich is 
somewhere near 1450° F., depending on the quality of 
the steel. This time test the texture of the grain as before 
and determine whether the proper temperature was main- 
tained to produce the finest grain and hard metal. When 
the iDroper hardening heat has been determined and the 




Fig. 53 — A small piece of pipe used as an annealing oven 



piece hardened properly, tempering is next in order — 
that is, reducing the hard brittle metal to a tough pliable 
state suitable for a spring, punch cutting tool, or what- 
ever is desired. 

Eemove the scale or oxide by grinding or polishing 
the hardened part of the wire with a piece of emery 
cloth, soft brick or an emery wheel. Heat slowly about 
2 inches of the end and notice the oxide colors as they 
appear on the surface. As the temperature increases, 
the first noticeable change will be from the original, pol- 
ished gray to a light yellow, then a straw, brown, purple, 
blue, etc., till the piece becomes very soft again. 

AMiile heating, move the piece about in the heat so as 
to draw the end to a gray blue and about 3 or 4 inches 



84 Model Engineering 

from the end to a light yellow. Between these points 
the entire color scale will appear and indicate to what 
degree the particular part was last heated. If the piece 
was hardened properly, the color on the surface indicates 
the degree of hardness. With a pair of pliers, break and 
examine the pieces as before. In this case it will be 
noticed that the part which was heated the hottest is the 
softest and that the part which has turned to a blue gray 
will bend easily before breaking. By studying the colors, 
their corresponding temperatures which are given below 
and the physical qualities of the steel, any desired degree 
of hardness may be obtained with comparative ease. 

Faint yellow . . 430°F. Dark brown . . . 510°F. 

Straw 450°F. Purple 530°F. 

Dark straw . . . 470°F. Blue 560°F. 

BrowTi 490°F. Gray blue 610°F. 

Case hardening or cementation is the process of pro- 
ducing an exterior layer or skin of hardened steel on an 
article of iron or low carbon steel. This is one of the 
most useful procedures in metal work, when properly 
carried out. It enables us to create a hard wearing sur- 
face upon material itself incapable of being hardened. 
We get a comparatively soft and tough interior com- 
bined with a hard exterior. 

There are several processes, but the same general 
purpose of impregnating the outside with a high per- 
centage of carbon is obtained. The processes differ in 
respect to tlie way it is sought to attain this object. The 
articles may be heated in an atmosphere of some suitable 
gas containing carbon until enough carbon has been ab- 
sorbed by the heated metal. This is the gas process. 
Then, we may pack the articles in a quantity of ground 
bone or its equivalent, using a metal box to hold the 
bone and the work, and then heat the whole to a high 



Hardening and Tempering Steel 85 

temperature until sufficient carbon from the bone lias 
penetrated into the Avork. This is the method in general 
use for high-class Avork, and is recommended to the 
mechanic. 

It is not necessary to have elaborate apparatus. The 
principal things needed are (1) the packing case of metal, 
(2) the packing material, and (3) a means of heating the 
case, when packed, to the proper temperature and hold- 




Fig. 54 — Simple method of case hardening a small gear wheel, using a 

blow torch 



ing it there for a considerable period — 1 to 10 hours or 
longer, depending upon the result wanted. 

After the impregnation with carbon, what we have is 
a skin or exterior layer of high carbon steel. It remains 
to harden and, if desired, to temper this skin. If the 
work is of high grade and there is a desire to have the 
very best results, then with steel work it will often be 
necessary to handle the hardening in such a Avay as to 
provide for annealing the.interior metal. The reason for 
this is that the high temperature at which the work is 
impregnated with carbon may have damaged the quality 
of the steel. The annealing is to restore the quality. It 
naturally precedes the hardening. 

The case or box used may be made of cast soft steel 



86 Model Engineering 

or of sheet steel. A proper way to make the box of sheet 
steel is with the aid of the oxy-acetylene welding process. 
The box may be of almost any size convenient to handle 
and heat. It mnst be large enough, since the packing 
material should be used generously around the articles. 
For a box 12 x 14 x 24 inches in size, a thickness of sheet- 
ing of 0.4 to 0.6 inch is proper. A box such as described 
should last through perhaps 12 or 15 occasions of its use. 
"What disintegrates the boxes is not so much wear and 
tear as the action of the atmosphere on the highly heated 
metal. It may be well to state that it is advisable to 
make the boxes small rather than large. We must not 
forget the considerable amount of packing material. A 
small box will naturally get heated up more quickly than 
a big one and will, be more likely to have the same tem- 
perature all the way through. The box should be made 
with a lid and the two should be so designed that the 
edges overlap. 

In charging a box with the work, it is proper first to 
coat the inside bottom with a paste made by mixing clay 
and water. This coat should be alloAved to dry thor- 
oughly before going on. After the drying is complete, 
we put in a layer of the packing material. This layer 
should be, say, 1% inches thick. This packing material 
should be in the condition of a fine powder and should 
be very dry. The first layer of the articles is put in place. 
We are careful not to put one against another, but to 
allow at least 1^4 inches between them. We then pack 
in the carbonaceous material. Care should be taken to 
fill in crevices and cavities and other irregularities of the 
work. We then put on a layer over the work, making 
this layer, say, 1 inch thick, if more work is to be put in, 
and 1% inches thick, if no more work is to go in. In 
case the box is not full when we have put in 11/2 inches 
of packing material over the top layer of work, then we 
fill in packing material clear on up to the top. The cover 



Hardening and Tempering Steel 87 

is now put on, fire-clay made pasty with water being 
used to seal the joints between lid and box. 

We are now ready to put the box into the furnace. 
We put it near the door in order to give the moisture 
in the fire-clay paste, and am^ other moisture that may 
be in the packing material, time to evaporate. After 
the moisture has evaporated, the box is placed in the 
hottest part of the furnace. 

Almost any kind of a furnace will answer, if it can 
be made hot enough and provided the temperature in the 
region where the box is can be managed so that there will 
be only very small differences at different points. This 
latter requirement is a very important one. A good gas 
furnace is, however, easily able to meet it. It is consid- 
ered undesirable that in the working part of the furnace 
the temperature at one point should differ by more than 
50°F. or 60°F. from that at any other point. If improp- 
erly heated, the work may, accordingly, come out of the 
box in various conditions. Or, if the box is used to hold 
one large article, then one part of the article may have 
received more carbon than another. 

A proper temperature to use in case-hardening is 
1740° F. This is a light orange color verging to a yellow. 
Case-hardening may be done at a lower temperature — as 
low, it seems, as a light red, under favorable circum- 
stances. It should be remembered that it is not simply 
the box that has to accpire the temperature but the work 
itself; and that a sufficient time must be allowed to get 
the depth of impregnation desired. 

• One of the simplest materials is that made according 
to the folloYv^ng formula: 

Wood-charcoal 9 parts 

Common salt 1 part 

In using this mixture, it may be necessary to go to high 
temperatures to get results in a reasonable time. Tem- 



88 Model Engineering 

peratnres up to light yellow may be used. Another mix- 
ture, claimed in authoritative quarters as better, is the 
following: 

Powdered wood-charcoal 6 parts 

Barium carbonate 4 parts 

With this mixture, a mild tool steel coating, very thin, 
is obtainable at an orange heat or higher; and a high- 
carbon tool steel coating, %2 inch or thicker, at high tem- 
peratures near light yellow. An advantage of this mix- 
ture is that it may have its activity restored after it has 
suffered from use, the simple means of restoration being 
exposure of the material in a thin layer to the influence 
of the air. 

There are many substances used for packing material 
— for example, wood-charcoal, leather, bone, common 
salt, sodium carbonate, saltpetre, resin, sawdust, soot, 
etc. These are used in various combinations. 

Case hardening to a very small depth may be accom- 
•plished by putting the cold, or moderately heated, article 
into a bath of potassium cyanide. The bath should be 
heated, say, to a bright eherry red prior to the immersion 
of the work. The article may be hung by a fine iron wire 
and allowed to remain until it acquires the temperature 
of the bath. This will, in some ordinary cases, require 
about a quarter of an hour or a little longer. It is neces- 
sary to point out that cyanide of potassium is a very 
deadly poison and that even the fumes from it are poison- 
ous. The cast iron pot or other crucible holding it should 
be enclosed with a hood connecting with a chimney or 
ventilating shaft. 



CHAPTER VI 



THE USE OF ABRASIVES 



Abrasive equipment for the model engineer's workshop — Grinding and 
polishing — Grinding attachments for small grinding head — Bonds 
used in making abrasive wheels — How to choose a wheel for certain 
work — Precautions to be taken in mounting wheels. 

There are many instances, in certain work, where the 
short-cut lies in grinding, and owing to the scarcity of 
published data on this very important subject many re- 
main ignorant of the great utility of simple abrasive 
materials and equipment in their application to me- 
chanics. 

Every workshop should contain a small grinding and 
polishing head. The one shown in Fig. 55 is a very good 
machine for the work generally required in the small 
shop, as it can be used for grinding, polishing and buffing. 
The machine should be belted to a %-H.P. motor of suffi- 
cient speed. In the event the mechanic is unable to pro- 
cure such a motor and has a small bench grinder, the 
arrangement sho\\m in Fig. 60 may prove to be of interest 
to him. The clamping disc of the bench grinder is re- 
placed by a wooden pulley with a groove large enough to 
accommodate a sewing machine belt. The polishing head 
is placed close enough to the bench grinder so that one 
may work conveniently at the former while driving it 
by means of the bench grinder. If a motor is used, a 
rheostat would make a very valuable addition to the out- 
fit, as a variation of speed is desirable for different 
classes of work. 

The grinding head should be provided with an assort- 
ment of wheels of various shapes, sizes and grits, as every 
wheel should be adapted to the particular kind of work 

89 



90 Model Engineering 

it is to be used for. A wheel 3 inches in diameter by 
1/2 inch thick is a very good size for general work when 
nsed with the small polishing head shown in the picture. 
As such wheels can be purchased for about 40 cents each, 
it is advisable to have four or five on hand of various 




/ ■ 



Fig. 55 — A grinding outfit for the model engineer's workshop 

grits; from very fine grit to coarse grit. Several round 
edge wheels of varying thickness should also be on hand, 
as there are many different jobs and operations where 
such wheels can be employed with great convenience, as 
in the cutting of grooves, <etc. For very fine and accurate 
work, small wheels of fine grit should be employed. Such 
wheels are commonly kno^m as jewelers' wheels, and ow- 
ing to the difficulty of procuring them with an arbor large 
enough for use on a half -inch spindle, the little ^^kink" 
shown in Fig. 56 may be used. The wheel is clamped 
between two washers by means of a 10-24 machine screw 
and nut. The protruding end of the machine screw is 
then placed in the chuck of the polishing head. As these 



TJie Use of Abrasives 



91 



wheels can be purchased for 10 cents apiece, it is advis- 
able to have an assortment on hand. 

Owing to the inability of the small grinding head to 
stand up under heavy work, a spindle equipped with a 
larger wheel should also be included in the abrasive 
equipment of the shop. A small bench grinder is capable 
of accomplishing quite heavy work and, in many cases, 
is sufficient for the small shop. The design and con- 
struction of a small, heavy-duty grinding head also pre- 





Fig. 56 — How a jeweler's wheel can l)e used in the chuck of a small 

grinding head 



sents a nice job for the young mechanic who is desirous 
of equipping his shop with a minimum of expense. 

Polishing, as well as many other operations, can be 
done two ways : good and bad. It is very easy to do bad 
polishing and not very difficult to do good polishing pro- 
viding the proper precautions are taken and the most 
practical methods used. 



92 



Model Engineering 



Two felt wheels 3 inches in diameter by li/4 inches < 
wide should be obtained from a polisher 's supply house. 
These can be attached to the tapered end of the polishing j 
head, care being taken that they run true. The periphery 




rig. 57 — Drawing of a grinding disc for use with a small grinding head 

of each wheel is then sized with a thin coating of hot car- 
penters ' glue and rolled in carborundum or emery pow- 
der. The wheels are then put aAvay to dry. One wheel 
should be prepared with a very fine abrasive powder and 



paper to 
fit in slot':, 




Slob 



-3^ 



Fig. 58 — A cylindrical grinding attachment made from wood — The 
abrasive paper or cloth is held to its surface as shown 



the other with a more coarse powder. "When it is neces- 
sary, the wheel with the coarse powder can be used to 
produce a preliminary polish and the other wheel can 
be used to put the final polish on the work. If carbo- 
rundum grains are used, the work should be held very 



The Use of Abrasives 93 

lightly against the wheel, as these particles are extremely 
sharp and cnt very easily. Emery is less abrasive in its 
nature, and it is necessary to bear more heavily on the 
wheel. 

An accessor}^ for use in polishing small flat surfaces is 
shown in Fig. 57. This is a brass disc 3% inches in diam- 
eter and % inch thick, provided with a %6-inch stud or 
shaft in the center, which is held in the chnck on the 
spindle of the polishing head. The abrasive paper or 
cloth discs used on the surface may be cut from the 
standard sheets obtainable at any hardware store. The 
disc is fixed to the surface of the brass by means of hot 
beeswax. This is a ver^^ handy little contrivance, espe- 
cially in polishing small instrument parts. 

Another accessory easy to construct and very useful 
is shown in the draiving. This is a small wooden form 
or wheel turned out on a lathe with the dimensions as 
shoi^m. A slot is cut across its face with a hack saw to a 
depth of % inch. A piece of abrasive cloth of any desired 
grit is cut to a length just exceeding the circumference 
of the form and the overlapping ends are bent at right 
angles and forced down in the slot. This holds the cloth 
to the surface of the wheel. 

A very convenient little contrivance is shown in Fig. 
59. This can be used for polishing small flat surfaces 
quickly. As will be seen from the photograph, it is merely 
a board equipped with a clamp at each end. The ends 
of the abrasive paper or cloth are placed under the clamps 
and held tightly by screwing down the winged nuts. To 
polish small, flat objects it is only necessary to lay them 
on the abrasive cloth and rub them briskly over its sur- 
face with an oscillating motion. Aside from a quick and 
convenient means of producing a polish, it is also useful 
in getting work dowm to exact size, as rapidly revolving 
abrasive surfaces generally cut too fast for extreme ac- 
curacy by hand. The board is made- wide enough to 



94 



Model Engineering 



accommodate two strips of abrasive cloth each 4% inches 

wide by 11 inches long, which is just half of a standard I 

9 X 11 sheet.- One strip should be of a very fine grit and \ 

the other should be of a coarse grit. I 

It is advisable to have both a coarse and a fine grit \ 

stone in the shop. In place of these, the writer would I 









rig. 59 — A lap board which is very convenient for polishing and grinding 

flat surfaces 



recommend the use of a combination stone which is com- 
posed of two stones (coarse and fine) cemented together. 
Such a stone is both convenient and economical, as it can 
be purchased at the price of a single plain stone and 
thereby saves the expense of an extra one. The tool is 
first edged on the coarse side and the fine side is then 
used to further remove the imperfections of the previous 
operation. Water or oil may be used to lubricate the 
stone. Some mechanics prefer one and some the other. 
It is optional which is used. If it is desired to produce 
an especially keen and delicate edge, the surface of the 
stone should be tiempered with wax or vaseline. These 



Tlie Use of Abrasives 



95 



substances fill the pores and interstices of the surface 
and regulate the sharpening process. 

A small hand stone should also be in every mechanic 's 
tool kit. This will be found very useful in sharpening 
small drills, reamer edges, compass points, etc. 

The following words on the technique of the grinding 
wheel should prove to be of interest to the average me- 
chanic, as the information given will help him to choose 
''the right wheel for the right place," as one big manu- 
facturer puts it. 

Grinding wheels should be adapted to the particular 
kind of work they are to be used for. Shape, grade, grit 




Fig. 60 — Driving a grinding head witli a hand grinder 



and l)ond should be considered when choosing a wheel 
for a certain class of work. The importance of this is 
obvious to the careful mechanic. 

Grit — The grit of a wheel is determined by the size 
of the abrasive particles that compose it. Coarse grit 
wheels are composed of large particles and the finer 



96 Model Engineering 

wheels of smaller particles. The grit is determined by the 
nnmber of meshes to the linear inch of a sieve that the 
particles composing the wheel will pass through. These 
numbers generally run from 12 to 150. Low numbers 
indicate the coarse wheels, and high numbers the finer 
grit wheels. Where large, heavy cuts are to be made, 
wheels of a coarse grit should be used. In more delicate 
operations where great accuracy is sought, wheels of a 
finer grit should be used. 

Bond — The bond of a wheel is the substance used to 
hold the abrasive particles together. The nature of the 
bond as well as the regulation of the mixing and baking 
process determines the degree of hardness of a wheel. The 
bond of a wheel is very important and should always be 
considered. The degree of hardness or the bond of a 
wheel determines how rapidly the particles composing it 
will break away from their settings. If they break away 
from their settings rapidly, the diameter of the wheel 
is reduced correspondingly fast, and the wheel is said to 
be *^soft." Such a wheel will cut fast and freely if its 
surface velocity is sufficiently rapid, as new and sharp 
abrasive particles are continually exposed owing to the 
old ones breaking off easily. There are many classes of 
work where such a wheel is necessary, and there are also 
many operations where it could not be used at all. If a 
wheel is ^^hard," its particles do not leave the bond so 
easily, and therefore its diameter will not be reduced so 
rapidly. However, if such a wheel is run too slowly and 
made to take a heavy cut, it will *^ glaze" badly. This 
is caused by the abrasive particles losing their cutting 
power by wear before they are able to break away from 
their setting owing to the hardness of the bond. There 
are cases where the employment of such a wheel is neces- 
sary. As an example : A 3-foot steel -shaft is being turned 
to an exact diameter between centers on a universal 
grinding machine and a cut of ^iooth of an inch is being 



The Use of Ahi^asives 



&7 



made the entire length of the shaft. If the wheel used 
is not hard enough, it will reduce in diameter in making 
the cut and inaccuracy will result, as one end of the shaft 
will be larger than the other. 

A list of the common bonds used in abrasive wheels 
follows, together with the special class of work each bond 
is most adaptable to. 

Vitrified — The bond of such a wheel is generally a 
special clay. Vitrified wheels are used for cylindrical 




Fig. 61 — The grinding disc shown in Fig. 57 attached to a grinding head 



and cutter grinding as well as for general machine shop 
work. 

Silicate — The.bond is silicate of soda, and such wheels 
find wide use in all shop work. 

Elastic — The bond is pure shellac, and as it produces 
a wheel that is not brittle, it is generall^^ used in making 
very thin wheels (as thin as V\^^ inch). Such wheels are 
used for saw gumming, grinding reamers, cutters and 



98 Model Engineering 

arbors. They are also used in cutting off small stock 
sucli as steel tubing, etc. 

Rubber Wheels — The bond consists of rubber and sul- 
phur. Although rubber wheels do not find wide use, there 
is special work where they are required, as they are not 
brittle and may be run at high surface velocity. Eubber 
wheels are also capable of withstanding great lateral 
pressure. 

It must be understood that the wheels of each bond 
are made in several different grades in varying degrees 
of hardness. The amount of metal to be removed, the 
physical nature of the metal being worked upon, and the 
desired condition of the finished surfaces are the three 
governing factors that should be considered in choosing 
a wheel. 

After considerable use, the profile of a grinding wheel 
becomes irregular and is restored by a process called 
dressing. This is very important, as it is impossible to 
accomplish accurate work on a wheel with an irregular 
profile or grinding surface. There are various types of 
wheel dressers on the market, each with its merits and 
disadvantages. They generally consist of a set of small 
steel wheels which revolve rapidly in a suitable holder, 
when the^^ are placed against the face of the grinding 
wheel to be dressed. Such wheel dressers are very well 
for large grinding wheels, but they will be found unsuit- 
able for use on small wheels such as used in the home 
shop. For dressing such wheels, a piece of an old broken 
wheel can be held to the edge of the wheel to be dressed, 
and if a little care is used very good results can be ob- 
tained in bringing a true surface to the wheel. This 
process is also a good remedy for a ^^ glazed" wheel. 

A still more satisfactory stunt is to revolve the grinder 
at low speed and true its periphery with a flat file held 
end on to actually ' ' turn ' ' the surface. 

Warning — The following words are intended for those 



The Use of Abrasives 99 

mechanics' who have large, power-driven grinder heads 
in their, workshops : 

Grinding wheels sometimes burst without any warn- 
ing and many men have been instantly killed by being 
struck with a flying piece. This is generally caused by 
carelessness, and with a little precaution many serious 
accidents could be prevented. AVheels should fit freely 
on the spindle and should never be forced on. The rea- 
son for this is as follows: If a lead-bushed wheel fits 
too snugly on the spindle and the bearing of the grinding 
head becomes too hot, the heat will be communicated to 
the lead bushing, and as the lead has quite a high coeffi- 
cient of cubical expansion it will bring a considerable 
pressure to bear upon the arbor of the wheel and in many 
cases burst it. The wheel should fit the shaft or spindle 
with sufficient freedom to permit this possible expansion 
of the lead bushing. AVheels should also be sounded 
carefully before being mounted and the flanges should 
never pinch the wheel too tightly. AAHieels should never 
be run above the rated surface velocity. 



CHAPTER VII 

PATTERN MAKIl^G 

General foundry practice — How moulds are made — Various kinds of pat- 
terns — Making patterns — Cores and core boxes — Parted patterns and 
how to make them — Finishing patterns. 

Pattern making is an extensive trade, and a man conld 
well spend a lifetime learning its various sides ; the begin- 
ner, therefore, should not attempt the bnilding of large 
or complicated pieces without the help and advice of a 
practical man, but by keeping constantly in mind the 
elementary operations in the moulding and drawing of 
ordinary patterns he should be able to turn out satisfac- 
tory work,. and not suffer the humiliation of hearing it 
pr®nounced faulty by the f oundrymen. 

In this treatise no attempt will be made to describe to 
any length the tools of the trade and the mode of using 
them. Ordinary carpenters' tools will answer the pur- 
pose for the amateur, and it is assumed that he is reason- 
ably familiar with their use. Many patterns do not re- 
quire the use of a lathe in making them, but for those 
that do, even though not expert in the use of turning tools, 
the operator will usually be able to ^'scrape" to shape 
and sandpaper his work so that it appears presentable. 
Screws, nails and brads of various lengths and sizes 
should be at hand, and glue and shellac must be provided. 
Generally but a small quantity of glue is required, in 
which case the ready-made liquid glue will prove more 
satisfactory than the solid kind, which has to be heated 
in water and melted. Several sizes of wooden screw 
clamps would be helpful in holding the parts together 
after gluing. Shellac is used for the finishing of pat- 

100 



Pattern Making 



101 



terns. Either the white or orange may be bought pre- 
pared. Several coats are generally required, as the pre- 
liminary ones raise the grain of the wood and roughen the 
surface, requiring the application of fine sandpaper after 
each coat; the finished surface must be smooth, in order 
that the pattern may be easily ^^dra^xTi'' from the mould. 
Here a caution should be inserted regarding the use of 
sandpaper ; the article must be brought as nearly as pos- 
sible to its final form and finish without the use of this 




Fig. 62A 

Fig. 62A— 
Fig. 62B- 



Fig. 62B 



-A pattern on a moulding board 
-A two-piece ppttern 



abrasive, and great care should be taken not to curve 
supposedly flat surfaces or to round supposedly square 
corners through employing an excess of zeal in its ap- 
plication. 

Almost any fairly soft, evenly grained wood capable 
of taking a good finish, and which will not warp or swell 
to an undue extent through coming in contact with damp 
sand in the mould may be used for this work. Cherry 
and mahogany, because of their freedom from warping, 



102 



Model Engineering 



shrinking and swelling, and because of the fine finish they 
are capable of taking, are considered about the best for 
regular commercial patterns, but they are rather expen- 
sive, and cheaper lumber, such as white pine or redwood, 
will answer the purposes of the amateur just as well. 

In order to go about this work intelligently, it is essen- 
tial to understand clearly the series of operations by 




Fig. 63A 



Fig. 63B 



Fig. 63 A — (Lower). A pattern partly covered with sand 
Fig. 63B — (Lower). Drag completely filled and smoothed 
Fig. 63C — (Above). Cope in position filled with sand 



which a casting is produced at the foundry, and the 
reader's attention is called to the series of photographs 
representing the process of making a sand mould from 
a simple one-piece pattern, that of a face plate to be used 
on a small lathe or drill press. Small castings are 
moulded in a ^^ flask," which in its plainest form consists 
of two rectangular frames resting upon a loose piece 
called the bottom board. The upper frame is called the 



ii 



Pattern Slaking 

cope/' and the lower is kno^vn as tlie ^^"dra< 



loa 



*^ moulding board," Avliicli for onr purpose may be con- 
sidered a duplicate of the *^ bottom board," is also pro- 
vided. In the photographs the ^^ flask" is represented by 
two wooden frames resting upon a bottom board. A 
regular flask, however, would be larger than this and 
of more complicated construction, being provided with 
guide pins between cope and drag, so that they will always 
fit together properly, cope ^*bars," handles, etc., and they 
are often built of iron. For the purpose of simplification 
all such details are omitted from the pictures. Sections 




Fig. 64 — (Above). Pattern exposed and piece moulded in place 
rig. 65 — (Below). Pattern withdrawn and two-piece pattern held together 

with dowel pins 



called '^ cheek pieces" are sometimes introduced between 
cope and drag for producing complicated castings and a 
number of pieces are usually moulded in one flask, which 
is partitioned off for the purpose. While the procedure 
that follows may not always be adhered to in regular 
foundry practice, the beginner by so constructing his pat- 



104 • Model Engineering *^ 

terns that they can be moulded by snch a series of opera- 
tions is assured of good results. 

Our face plate pattern will first be placed upon the 
'^moulding board," flat side down, as in Fig. 62 A, then 
the drag, shown, on end, behind the moulding board, is 
placed over it as in Fig. 63 A, and filled with moulding 
sand which is ^* rammed" down and smoothed off even 
with top of drag. Fig. 63A shows the pattern partly 
covered with sand, and Fig. 63B represents the 
drag completely filled and smoothed off, the pattern be- 
ing at the bottom out of sight. Next, the bottom board 



Fig-. 68A Fig. 66B 

Fig. 66A — Pattern in place on board 

Fig. 66B — T5rpical parted pattern with horizontal core print 

is placed upon the top of the drag for the moment, and 
the whole is turned over, the removal of the moulding 
board exposing to view the side of the pattern which 
rested upon it, as shown in Fig. 64. Now the cope is 
placed upon the drag, the pattern still being in place, 
filled with sand and rammed, and lifted o:ff again. A 
^^ sprue pin," whose purpose is to form an opening 
through which the molten metal may be poured into the 
mould, is set into the cope previously to filling in the sand, 
but this has been omitted from the pictures. Fig. 63C 
shows the cope in position, filled with sand. 

The cope having been filled and lifted off, the pattern 
is removed by driving in a ^^draw pin" and ^^ rapping" 



Patteim Making 



105 



to loosen it from the sand. Sometimes considerable rap- 
ping is necessary, and it is important to remember that 
a pattern should he as strongly constructed as possible 
in order to tvithstand this treatment. 

Fig. 65 shows the appearance of the mould after 
withdrawing the pattern. A *^gate'' or channel is cut 
through the sand from under the sprue pin opening to the 
mould, vents for the escape of air are provided, and then 
the cope is replaced and all is ready for pouring. As- 
suming that the reader has these fundamental operations 




Fig. 67B 



Fig. 67A 

Fig. 67A — Pattern drawn from sand 
Fig. 67B — Parted pattern with core print 



clearly in mind, we will now take up the question of 
^^ draft.'' 

^* Draft" refers to the tapering of the sides of a pat- 
tern so that it may be easily ^^ drawn" from the mould 
without breaking out the sand. In Fig. 70A is shown 
a section of a plain flange pattern in position upon the 
moulding board ready to be covered with sand. The 
sides of the pattern are tapered off in order to facilitate 
its being ^Mrawn," as shoA\Ti in Fig. 70B. It will be 
seen that if the sides Avere tapered in the opposite direc- 
tions the pattern could not be withdrawn without pulling 



106 



Model Engineering 



the sand np \^^.tll it and spoiling tlie monld, and that if 
the sides were made perpendicular difficnlty would also 
be experienced. Note that this pattern is made with a 
hole in the center, and that the sides of the hole are so 
tapered that upon drawing, a column of sand will be left 




Fig. 68 — Typical one-piece patterns 



standing in the center of the mould, so that the molten 
metal running around it will form the hole in the casting. 
Such a column of sand formed directly by the pattern is 
known as a ^^ green sand core." The subject of cores will 
be taken up later. 

Every side of a pattern which in the original design 
or drawing is sho^^m as perpendicular to the plane upon 
which the pattern will be moulded, or, in other words, 
every side which must slide through the sand in draAving 
from the mould, must he tapered or given draft, and this 
taper must he in the right direction. In Fig. 70A the 
amount of draft is purposely exaggerated; one-eighth of 
an inch to the foot is usually allowed for small articles, 



Pattern Making 



107 



but the amateur could well provide a greater amount, at 
least enough to make the taper easily discernible to the 
eye, for this would mean less work for the moulder and 
better castings. He should always keep in mind the idea 
of the moulding board, as illustrated in Fig. 62A, and 
the drawing of the pattern as shown in Fig. QQ, and 
before beginning to make a pattern of any kind should 
always ask himself: *^How will it be moulded? How will 
it be dra^Mi? Are there any parts which will not draAv 
A\T.thout ruining the mould!" Upon deciding the direc- 
tion in which it Avill be drawn, he will then be able to 
determine which sides should be given draft and its cor- 




Fig. 69 — A few parted patterns 



rect inclination. Imagine the pattern to be placed on the 
moulding board as in Fig. 62 ; then the direction of draw- 
ing, in the present position, would be downward; there- 
fore, all outer sides of the pattern should slope upivard 
and iniuard and the inner sides, as the sides of the hole 
in flange in Fig. 70B, should incline upivard and out- 



108 



Model Engineering 



ward. This, of course, includes curved as well as straight 
surfaces. 

Keeping these facts in mind, there should be no diffi- 
culty encountered in constructing one-piece patterns hav- 
ing one side fiat to allow for placing upon the moulding 
board. It is not necessary, however, that the flat side 
be made smooth, that is, having no openings or recesses. 
Fig. 71 represents a pulley pattern set upon the moulding 




Fig. 70A — Flanged pattern showing draft 




''WW 



Fig. 70B — Pattern removed, showing core left in sand mould 



board. The bottom is recessed and a lower hub is formed 
whose end is higher than the pulley rim in the position 
shown. This will cause no trouble, provided draft is 
given the hub and inside rim as indicated ; the drag will 
be filled, rammed and turned over as before, then the 
cope will be set in place and filled and some of the sand 
will fill up this recess, now on the upper side, but will 
be lifted off with the remainder of the cope sand. The 
pattern is then removed, and upon replacing the cope 



Pattern Making 109 

this projecting part of the sand will extend down into 
the mould in the drag, thus forming a recessed casting 
of the same shape as the pattern. Many other patterns 
fall under this class, such as the base plate of Fig. 72, 
with its recessed under side and interior bosses and webs. 
This pattern is also shown at B, in Fig. 68, and beside it 
is shown a bottom view of a similar one (A, Fig. 68). 

Care should always be taken not to build a pattern 
which cannot be draA^^l, such as the pulley of Fig. 73, 
which is identical with the one of Fig. 67, except that 
the bottom hub projects beyond the pulley rim, and if 
moulded as sho^^^l the sand between rim and surface of 
drag would be torn out when draAving the pattern. It is 
not impossible to produce a casting from a one-piece pat- 
tern like this one, but it would not be wise for the begin- 
ner to make one of this type without obtaining practical 
advice upon the subject. The safest and best way would 
be to make that part of the hub which projects below the 
rim and interferes with the use of the moulding board, 
removable, and held in place by dowel pins. This would 
really form what is Imown as a ^^ parted'' pattern. All 
hubs, bosses or other ^projections upon the side of a one- 
piece pattern ivhich ivould interfere ivith the use of the 
moulding board as shoicn in Fig. 62, shoidd be made 
removable. 

A group of typical one-piece patterns is shown in the 
photograph. Fig. 68. A is the under side of a base plate 
similar to the one of Fig. 72, a top view of which can be 
seen at B. C is a drill press arm; note that the boss Y 
and boss with tapered ^^core print," Z, are removable, 
for the pattern would be placed on the moulding board 
with that side doAATi. (Core prints taken up later.) D is 
a slotted angle plate; the slots must be given draft and 
the piece at right angles to slotted base should be given 
considerable draft, for this part is down in the drag. 
Note rounded corner piece, or ''fillet.'' At E is a crank 



110 



Model Engineering 



handle ; F a follow rest for a lathe, and would be placed 
on the board laid flat as .shown. X is a ^' loose piece," to 
be described later. G and H are flanges; K should be 
specially noted as bearing out what was said in the intro- 
duction ; it Avas made to replace the broken part of an old 
lathe for which a new casting could not be obtained. The 




Fig. 71 — A pulley pattern 



pattern was cut out by hand in about an hour, and the 
casting obtained only required a little hand filing and 
cost about twenty cents. At M is the tool rest slide for 
a speed lathe, X being another ^* loose piece." These 
patterns are all cast like the face plate shown in Figs. 
62, 63, 64 and 65. The group gives an idea of the great 
variety of forms under this class. 

But many patterns have to be made in halves, or in 
two or more parts, held together by wood or brass dowel 
pins, called ^^ pattern pins." Such patterns are known 
as ^* parted patterns," and are so made that one part may 
be moulded in the drag and another in the cope; the 
dividing or *^ parting line" of the pattern coincides ivitli 
parting line between cope and drag. If made and moulded 
in one piece such a pattern could not be removed from 



Pattern 3Iaking 



111 



the mould without completely breaking up the sand, but 
the two parts are so constructed that each may be indi- 
vidually drawn, and then when the cope and drag are 
again fitted to each other, the mould formed by the im- 
pressions of the two pieces will be of the exact shape of 
the pattern. 

Photographs Fig. 62B and Fig. 63C (center) show 
a pattern which, on account of the shape of its base, obvi- 
ously could not be cast in one piece ; it is therefore ' ' split ' ' 
through the middle and moulded as illustrated in the 
series of photographs 62B, 63B, 64, 65. One part, that 
w^ithout dowel pins, is laid upon the moulding board, 
as in Fig. 62B ; the other part with pins may be seen 





Fig. 72 — A base plate pattern 



standing on end. The procedure is the same as the mould- 
ing of the one-piece face plate previously described, until 
the drag is turned over and moulding board removed, 
exposing the flat side of the pattern to view. Now at this 
point the second part of the pattern is placed upon the 
piece still in the drag, the pattern pins holding it in the 
proper position, see Fig. 65. Then the cope is set in place, 
tilled with sand, as in Fig. 63C, and removed. As the 
pattern pins fit loosely, the upper part of the pattern 



112 



Model Engineering 



comes off with the cope which is turned over, and this 
part and that in the drag removed by means of *^draw 
pins.'' Fig. 64 shows the piece first moulded in the drag 
ready for drawing, with draw pin in place. The cope is 
now replaced upon the drag after providing gate, vents^ 
etc. (not shown) and the mould is ready for pouring. 
The important point to remember then, in making a 
parted pattern, is to provide the flat side of one piece 
with dowel pin holes, but no pins, in order that it may 
be laid flat upon the moulding board exactly as though 





I 


\ 


r 


^___ — 






,1L . 


r ~^ 




1 


i 



Fig. 73 



Fig. 74 



Fig. 73 — A pattern for a pulley that cannct be drawn 
Fig. 74 — A parted pattern for the pulley shown in Fig. 73 



it were a one-piece pattern ; therefore the same rules for 
draft sJiould he applied. Then supposing that both parts 
were laid flat, side by side, the taper or draft given the 
sides of the two respective parts should he in the same 
direction. A study of Figs. 62B, 63B, 64, 65 will make 
this clear, and Figs. 62A and 62B will show how the 
moulding board is used for the moulding of parted as well 
as one-piece patterns. By keeping in mind the use of 
this board one should be enabled to reason out the correct 
way to go about the building of patterns of either type. 

The pulley illustrated in Fig. 73, when provided with 
a loose end on the lower hub, is a regular parted pattern ; 
but now that this class has been explained a better way 
to make it will be described ; by having the parting line 
of the pattern, and therefore of the mould, directly 



Pattern Making 



113 



tlirougii the center of the rim as in Fig. 74, ninch less 
draft need be given the rim, since now only half of its 
Avidth has to be drawn through the sand ; this also means 
less work for the moulder, for the pattern mil draw 
easier and not require so much rapping ; a better casting- 




Fig. 75— A parted pattern ready for turning 

results, and there will be less machine work and waste of 
material due to its more symmetrical shape. 

A few parted patterns are shown in Fig. 69. For the 
moment no attention should be paid to the black projec- 
tions seen on some of them; these are **core prints" and 
will be explained later. At A, B, and E, are three pairs, 
and at D half of another. The cylindrical parts of these 
are lathe turned, and the other pieces fitted and glued. 




Fig. 76 — A steel "spur center" which is used as a live center in wood 

turning 



E could be made in one piece and cast vertically, for the 
^^nose" has considerable taper, were it not for the cylin- 
drical projection above it (this one is not a core print) 
which would have to be pinned on so that it could be 
removed and allow the ^^nose" to be stood upon the 
moulding board resting upon its flange. H is a half of 
the pattern shown as being moulded in Fig. 62B. C, F 
and G are ^'core boxes," and will be taken up further on. 



t 



114 Model Engineering 

It mnst not "be supposed that parted patterns are built 
in one piece and then sawed in two afterward; Fig. 75 
shows two pieces planed and fitted together with dowel 
pins, the regular pins that remain in the pattern, and 
temporarily secured by counter-sunk screws at the ends. 
Enough material should be allowed at the ends for the 
pattern to be turned to shape and finished at the ends 
without running into these screws; the assembled piece 
must be wide enough to allow of its being turned to cor- 
rect diameter. Great care is necessary in placing the 
work between centers, for the centers should fit directly 
into the parting line ; otherwise the halves will be found 
unsymmetrical. At Fig. 76 is a steel ' ' spur center ' ' used 
as a live center in wood turning ; the spur holds the end 
of the work firmly and no dog or other holder is required. 
The cloivel pins must ahvays he fitted first, before turning 
to shape, for it would be most difficult to put them in 
accurately afterward. They should fit loosely, so that 
the parts will fall apart of their own weight, but not so 
loose that the pieces can shift sideways. 

Sometimes it is necessary to make a pattern in three 
or more parts; on other occasions an irregular parting 
surface must be made in the mould; often the pattern 
parting line does not coincide with that of the sand, but 
these more complicated operations would be beyond the 
scope of this chapter, and the beginner is advised to stick 
to the easier forms for a while. Meanwhile, the subject 
of ''core prints'' and ''core boxes" requires some at- 
tention. 

Many patterns, while varnished or finished "bright," 
are seen to have cylindrical or other projections painted 
black, or if the body of the piece is black, the projections 
are left "bright." In every instance these strange look- 
ing projections are found to occur at points where holes 
or openings or recesses are required in the casting, and 
one is inclined to wonder why holes to correspond were 



Pattern Making 



115 



not made directly in the pattern itself. In some cases this 
could be done, as, for instance, in the. patterns shown at 
D, H, K and L of Fig. 68, and in the case of the slots of 
the face plate in Fig. 62A. It Avill be noted, however, 
that all these holes and slots are shallow; if they were 
lona-er and of small diameter the draft wonld have to be 



COP£ 



-CORE PRINT cope: 



CORE PRINT 




n 



warn. 




Jiliif 



m^:mmr§&mim,^. 




@ 



izQ 



r4] 



Rfa, \.'«\<rt\i,.\\ .i.Nrt-.i.y I 



LP 



^T/, 



® 



m 



Fig. 77 



-I 



n- 



rF= 



Fig. 78 



© 



rig. 77 — Moulding pattern with vertical core prints and placing of 

vertical dry sand core 
Pig. 78— Moulding of parted pattern with horizontal cylindrical core 
prints, horizontal core 



116 



Model Engineering 



excessive to allow the pattern to be dra^^^l at all, and in 
a great many cases it wonld be impossible to use a ^' green 
sand core'' due either to the length of the hole or to 
the fact of its occurrence below the parting line of pat- 
tern or mould, as in Fig. 86. In these instances '^dry 
sand" or moulded and baked cores must be used, and 
these make necessary the employment of ^^core prints." 




COriE PRINT 






^^ 




Figs. 79, 80, 81 — ^Moulding the patt.ern of a steam gauge or meter case 
with opening on one side only 



''Core prints'' are those parts of a pattern which form 
depressions in the sand mould, these depressions being 
used to support a "core'' made of sand or sand and glue, 
moulded in a wooden ^^core box" and baked hard in a 
^^core oven." When the metal is poured into the mould, 
it flows around this core and a hole is thus formed in the 
casting. The remains of the core are removed with the 
casting and dug out of the hole. Core prints do not 
necessarily have to be of the same size as the hole to be 



Pattern Making 



117 



formed in the casting; tlie}^ may be of any shape that will 
draw, but the body of the core, allowing a small amount 
for shrinkage of the metal, must be the exact size and 
shape of the hole or other opening required in the casting. 
If the hole is to be cylindrical, the core body must be 
cylindrical; if a square or rectangular core is used, no 
matter what the shape of the core prints, the casting will 




WW 




Fig. 82 — Cross sectional -vaew of finished casting. This should he 
compared with the core shown in Fig. 81 



be made with a sciuare or rectangular hole, and so on. 
Then end or ends of the core must fit closely into the core 
print depressions in the mould, otherwise the molten 
metal might run between and cause the core to shift in 
the mould. Now for an example : 

The face plate as shown in Fig. 62 is being cast with- 
out a hole in the center. Suppose that in order to make 
the machine work easier it is decided to have a hole 
*^ cored'' in the casting, but that the hole is too small in 
diameter in proportion to its length, to make feasible the 
use of a ^^ green sand" core like that of Fig. 70A. Since 
the hole is too small in diameter in proportion to its 
length to do this, what is known as a *^ vertical" core will 
be used. If the core prints were cylindrical, they would 
be hard to clraAv, therefore they are tapered or given 
draft. Fig. 66A shows the pattern in place on the 
moulding board with the top core print, which is merely 
a piece of wood shaped like the frustum of a cone and 
painted black, fastened in place. If the bottom one was 



118 



Model Engineering 



similarly fastened, it would interfere with the use of the 
moulding board, so it is made removable. This piece is 
shown standing in front of the pattern. Its bottom has a 
pin which fits into a hole in the bottom of the main pat- 
tern. No set rule is used in tapering these vertical core 
prints ; one often used for small ones is to make the length 
equal to the diameter of the core, large end of same 
diameter and the small end half the diameter. 

The core itself is moulded in a ^^core box," which 
sometimes is made in halves pinned together like a parted 




Figs. 83, 84 — Pattern and core prints. Pattern will be moulded with flat 
(top) surface resting on* moulding board. Appearance of core made 
in core box. 



pattern. Such a core box is seen standing at the left of 
the pattern in the picture. "When the core is to be sym- 
metrical, as this one is, it is really only necessary to make 
half of the box; then at the foundry they will mould two 
half cores, bake them and ^^ paste'' them together, thus 
forming a whole core and saving the pattern maker con- 
siderable work. A half -box must be accurately made in 
order that the two half cores mil fit together. As a mat- 
ter of fact, it is hardl}^ necessar^^ to make a core box at 
all for either a vertical or horizontal cylindrical core, 
unless it is of an odd size, for all foundries keep on hand 
what are kno\^m as ^^ standard'' cylindrical cores of all 
diameters, from a quarter-inch up, running by eighths 



Pattern Making 119 

or sixteenths. These are cut to the required length, and 
if a vertical core with tapered ends is required, they 
^^rasp'' off the end to the right taper. There is no extra 
charge for the use of these standard cores, for the mak- 
ing and baking of special cores is not -then necessary, 
and the pattern maker is thus saved considerable time and 
labor, especially if he is not provided with a ^^core box 
plane,'' and has to shape his core boxes with gouge and 
sandpaper. 

To return to the face plate : This is moulded in pre- 
cisely the same way as before, the loose- bottom core print 
being handled the same Avay as the corresponding part 
of a parted pattern. Before the mould is closed up for 
pouring, the baked core is set in place in the core print 
depression formed in the drag by the upper print shown 
in Fig. 66A ; then when the cope is put on, the other core 
print depression fits down over the top of the core, hold- 
ing it firmly in place. This procedure is shown graphi- 
cally in Fig. 77, which represents the successive opera- 
tions of moulding a flange with a vertical core. 

Fig. 78 shows the moulding of a longer flange pattern, 
which is best made parted and moulded horizontally, thus 
requiring a horizontal core. In this case, the core prints 
would be made cylindrical, the same diameter as the core, 
and, of course, parted like the rest of the pattern; in 
making a pattern of this type, the core prints would be 
turned up as an integral part of the pattern. A good 
rule for small core prints of this kind is to make the 
length equal to the diameter. The core is made similar 
to the vertical one, either in one piece or moulded in a 
half core box and the halves pasted together. In Fig. 
69, F, is a half box for :a cylindrical horizontal core. 
Although such a core box is easier to make than the kind 
sho^^m in Fig. 66 A, the amateur is advised to allow the 
use of the standard cores at the foundry whenever pos- 
sible. 



120 



Model Engineering 



Photographs 66A and 67B illustrate the moulding 
of a typical parted pattern mth horizontal cylindrical 
•core prints. The complete pattern is shown in Fig. 66B, 
and to the right of it is a casting which was made from 
it. Note the hole through the casting. Standing up- 
right behind the pattern is the core. In Fig. 67A the 



yVOTT DRArr- 




Fig. 85 — Plan- and end view of half core box 

cope has been lifted, the half pattern with it, turned 
over and the pattern dra^^m. Note that the core prints 
on this piece have left two semi-cylindrical depressions 
in the sand. At 67B the .other half of the pattern hus been 
removed -also, lea\dng -a half mould in the drag and two 
semi-cylindrical core print depressions into which the 
cylindrical baked core has been placed. This done, -the 
cope A\ill be replaced and the mould will be ready for 
pouring. The casting sho^YIl upon the corner of the drag 
in Fig. 67B is not,--of course, supposed to have been taken 
from the mould; it was placed there merely to give an- 
other vieAv of the one of Fig. 66B. 

Sometimes a number of holes, vertical, horizontal, or 
inclined, or recesses and openings of various shapes are 
cored into the same casting; core boxes are often ex- 
tremely complicated, and, in fact, castings are frequently 
made mthout a pattern, the mould being made up of 
cores alone. If the casting is to be open at one side 
only, as in the case of the box-like steam gauge or meter 
case sho\\Ti in Fig. 82, but one core print is used, and 
the vertical core rests upright in the depression formed 



Pattern Making 121 

by it, the core, of course, being a ''dry sand" one made 
in a special core box. The core in the picture is short 
and thick, and is easily supported in this way, but if it 
had to be placed horizontally or if it had been long and 
thin, the inner end would have had to have been held 
in place by one or more short inner cores and the holes 
formed in the casting plugged up later. The Avater 
jacketed cylinder of a gas engine would be illustrative 
of such a case. Space will not permit the discussion of 
such complicated' cores and core boxes, which would 
prove troublesome for the amateur in any event, so only 
a few of the simpler types are shown in the photographs. 
Fig. 69 shows the two halves of a pattern similar to that 



Fig. 86 — Appearance of casting showing cored hole 

of Fig. 66B, except that two sets of core prints, large 
and small, are used at P, P. No core boxes are shown, 
for standard cores were employed at the foundry. B 
and D, Fig. 69, are instances where both vertical and 
horizontal core prints occur in the same pattern; X de- 
notes the vertical print. At C is -a more complicated 
core box which goes with the pattern shown "at Fig. 
62B, and half of which may also be seen at H, Fig. 69. 
The method of moulding this pattern Avould be exactly 
the same as the operations shoiAm in moulding the meter 
case. Figs. 79, 80, 81; the core box is more complicated 
because the interior of the casting must contain ribs and 
bosses. The disc-like core print may be seen on the face 
of the pattern at H. The outside of this core box was 
made round merely for convenience, and as far as the 



122 Model Engineering 

molding is concerned, could just as well have been square. 
The inside shape of the box is all that should be consid- 
ered from the molding standpoint, for here the core is 
formed, and when it is placed upright in the mold (in 
this case) the hot metal surrounds it and leaves an open- 
ing in the casting the same shape as the core. 

Another t^^pe of core can be considered; one which 
has to be placed below the parting line of the mold 
and which may be either horizontal or inclined. Fig. 
68, J, and Figs. 83, 84, 85, 86 illustrate such a case. 
This is a one-piece pattern which will be molded with its 
flat side resting upon the board; therefore the parting 
line of the mold would come even with this side. The 
part of the casting that is to have the horizontal hole 
through it will be down in the drag, and it is obvious 
that if regular horizontal cylindrical core prints were 
used the pattern could not be drawn, for then the core 
print projections would tear up the sand. In a case of 
this kind, therefore, tlie core prints must extend up to 
the top of the mold so that the pattern may he removed 
therefrom. They may be given any convenient shape as 
long as they will draw ; for instance, in this pattern they 
are an extension of the lower part and extend up even 
with the top and, therefore, even with the parting line 
of the mold. The body of the core, as previously stated, 
must be of the same diameter as the required hole 
through the casting. A core of this kind always requires 
the building of a special core box; even though the body 
of the core were cylindrical, a standard core could not 
be used, for the two end portions which fit into the core 
print depressions must be molded and baked with the 
body. In this case, a half core box may be used ; such a 
one is shown at G, Fig. 69, and at Fig. 85, and the ap- 
pearance of the finished core in Fig. 84. If the two ends 
were not alike, a half box could not be used, for the two 
half cores would then not fit together. Fig. 86 shows 



Pattern Making 



123 



how the casting would look; note that the core print pro- 
jections never appear on the casting; their function is 
only to forni- a support for the core in the mold. 

Space will not permit a further discussion of cores 
and core boxes, for they occur in an endless variety, and 
every one would require a special description, but the 
foregoing should give the reader an idea of the princi- 
ples involved. Therefore we will proceed to explain a 
few small but important details such as *^ fillets," ^4oose 
pieces," and allowance for shrinkage and machine work. 




Fig. 87 — The dotted lines indicate a fillet with too great a radius in 
proportion to the thickness of the pattern 



A sharp corner should never be made on a pattern, 
whether it be curved or straight, but should be rounded 
off ; and internal corners should be filled in by a curved 
portion called a ^^ fillet." An exception to this rule Avould 
occur in the case of such corners as were formed upon 
that side of the pattern which would rest upon the mold- 
ing board, as the top edge of the flange sho^vn in Fig. 
62A. Such a corner could not be rounded to any ex- 
tent without interfering with the drawing of the pattern. 
A sharp corner always means a weak place in the cast- 
ing, for strains are set up in the metal as it cools and 
are sometimes sufficient to cause a fracture, whereas a 
rounded corner, or one containing a fillet, causes a more 
uniform cooling stress in the casting. AMien cutting a 



124 Model Engineering 

pattern out of a single piece of wood, the fillets can gen- 
erally be worked out from the solid, but if built up of 
V separate pieces, sharp corners are usually formed and 
must be filled by a small strip of wood glued in and 
rounded with gouge and sandpaper after the glue is dry. 
This is illustrated in Fig. 87, which shows a triangular 
piece of wood with brads for temporarily holding it in 
place until the glue dries, after which the brads are 
drawn and the corner rounded. Strips of leather may 
be used for fillets instead of wood, especially in fitting 
rounded corners Avhere wood fillets would be difficult to 
fit. They are fastened and shaped the same way as the 
j wooden ones. Beeswax is sometimes used, the wax being 

\ softened and Avorked into the corner, but such work is 

1 not very permanent. A fillet should not be too thick in 

i . proportion to the thickness of the pattern, as in the 

dotted, line of Fig. 87 ; this would be as bad as none at 
I all, for the excess of metal in the corner would cause 

j strains to be set up as the metal cooled. 

I ^' Loose pieces" are small parts of a pattern which 

;, project in such a way that if permanently fastened in 

: place would not allow the pattern to be drawn from the 

; mold. Instances of this are noted in Fig. 68, one being 

i the lathe side M, which has a boss X on one side of the 

[ post, and the projection on the lower end of the base of 

I the follow rest F. These parts are made separately and 

held in place by a long pin or brad. In molding, the sand 
is rammed doA^m over the pattern until part of the loose 
1 piece is covered ; then the pin is removed, leaving the 

I piece in position Avhile the remainder of the sand is filled 

in. When the pattern is removed, the loose piece stays 
I in the mold and may be taken out without breaking up 

the sand. The piece must, of course, be small enough to 
be remoA^ed through the mold formed by the main part 
of the pattern. While the best practice calls for sliding 
doA^e-tailed joints and other more* or less complicated 



Pattern Making 125 

arrangements for loose pieces, the simple method of 
holding by a pin is perfectly satisfactory for small pat- 
terns. 

Eyery metal shrinks to some extent npon cooling 
from a molten state. The amount of shrinkage depends 
on the size and shape of the piece as well as the co- 
efficient of expansion of the metal. For cast iron, the 
shrinkage allowance is generally one-eighth of an inch 
to the foot ; this means that if a casting was required to 
be one foot long the pattern would haye to be made 
twelye and one-eighth inches long, for the casting would 
shrink one-eighth of an inch in its length while cooling. 
But for most of the small patterns such as the amateur 
would build, unless yery accurate castings Avere required, 
the shrinkage could be neglected. 

Those parts of a pattern which correspond to the 
portions of the casting which are to be machine finished 
must be made thick enough to allow for the material re- 
moyed from the surface of the casting while turning, 
boring or planing it. Usually about one-eighth of an inch 
has to be taken off in order to get down through the sur- 
face scale and giye a smooth finish to the work. For in- 
stance, the top face, rim and lower face of hub of a cast- 
ing of the face plate showm in Fig. 62A, would have to 
be turned off in the lathe and so the pattern would haye 
to be made one-quarter of an inch greater in diameter 
than the finished size, the face one-eighth inch thicker 
and the hub one-eighth longer to allow for the machine 
work on the casting. If a hole was bored through the 
center, allowance would haye to be made for remoying 
at least one-eighth of an inch of metal from the sides of 
the hole while boring out, and more if there was a chance 
of the cored hole beino; crooked. 



CHAPTER VIII 

ELECTRO-PLATING 

Explanation of the process — Description of a small plating outfit— Solu- 
tions used for the electro-deposition of copper, silver and nickel — 
Cleansing solutions for various metals — Polishing and finishing work. 

The average amateur mechanic seems inclined to re- 
gard electro-plating as a very complicated and difficult 
process, involving the use of costly materials and appa- 
ratus. This is not the case, however, as the successful 
electro-deposition of copper, nickel and silver is a com- 
paratively simple process, the practice of which easily 
comes within the resources and ability of the amateur. 
An electro-plating outfit should be included in the equip- 
ment of every workshop, and it is the purpose of the 
author to describe in the following lines the construction 
and manipulation of a small but practical outfit, which 
will enable the mechanic to properly plate and finish his 
machine or instrument parts. 

While it is not the purpose of the author to give a 
lengthy treatise on the theory of electro-deposition, a 
brief outline of the fundamental principles involved will 
be given, as an elementary understanding of the theory 
of any process or operation about to be performed in- 
variably proves helpful and advantageous in actual 
practice*. 

Pure water is a very poor conductor of the electric 
current, but if a small quantity of table salt (sodium 
chloride) is dissolved in it, it at once becomes a com- 
paratively good conductor of electricity, and in this state 
is technically known as an electrolyte. If we immerse 
two electrodes in such a solution and pass a current be- 

126 



Electro-Plating 



127 



tween tliem, it will tend to decompose the table salt into 
its constituent elements, i.e., sodium and chlorine. The 
atoms of sodium will accumulate at the ne2:ative elec- 




Fig. 88 — A glass storage battery jar used as an electro-plating vat 



trode or cathode and the chlorine will be attracted by 
the positive electrode or anode. 

This is exacth^ Avhat happens in the process of electro- 
plating. For an illustration, we will assume that we are 
plating with nickel. In place of the sodium chloride, 
nickel-ammonium sulphate would be dissolved in the 
water, and upon passing an electric current through such 



128 Model Engineering 

a solntion Ave would find that tlie negative electrode 
would soon become covered with a thin deposit of metal- 
lic nickel owing to the decomposing action of the cur- 
rent. If we take the negative electrode out and substi- 
tute it with articles to be plated, we will find that the 
articles will undergo the same process and a deposit of 
nickel will form on them. If we wish to plate with cop- 
per, copper sulphate should be substituted for the nickel- 
ammonium sulphate, etc. 

In many cases, where there are but a few small arti- 
cles to be electro-plated, a small vat may be used with 
entire success and the results will be found to be just as 
good as those attainable by means of larger vats and 
more costly apparatus. For general workshop use, the 
outfit described in the following lines will be found to be 
both practical and serviceable. 

The vat proper should be a square earthenware or 
glass jar with dimensions not smaller than 8 inches 
square and 10 inches deep. A glass storage battery jar 
of the proper size is very suitable. The top of the vat 
should be equipped with three %2-inch brass rods, as 
shown in Fig. 88. One end of each rod should be threaded 
to receive %2 machine nuts. Two of the rods are to be 
used to hold the electrodes, and the articles to be plated 
are suspended from the third one. On account of the 
necessity of varying the distance between "the electrodes 
for different classes of work, it will not be found desira- 
ble to construct a permanent arrangement to hold the 
rods in place, as they are heavy enough, when equipped 
with the electrodes, to remain in any position they are 
placed in. 

The electrodes of a plating vat should be of the same 
metal that is to be deposited. Thus, if we desire to cop- 
per plate, copper electrodes should be used; if we wish 
to nickel plate, nickel electrodes should be used, etc. For 
this reason, it will be found necessary to construct three 



Electro-Plating 129 

sets of electrodes for use with the vat ; one set of copper, 
one of nickel, and one of silver. Owing to the greater 
expense of silver, the electrodes of this metal are made 
much smaller than those of nickel and copper, and on 
this account it will be found necessary to plate one arti- 
cle at a time when depositing silver. As the silver plat- 
ing solution is equally expensive, the amount prepared 
should only equal one-third that of the copper or nickel 
solutions, and the silver electrodes should be suspended 
into the solution by means of longer strips than those 




Fig. 89 — An electro-plating dynamo 

used on the other electrodes so they will be completely 
immersed. The dimensions of the various electrodes 
and the method of suspending them from the brass rods 
are plainly sho^^m in the sketch. 

While three Bunsen cells connected in series Avill be 
found to produce sufficient current to successfully oper- 
i ate the vat described above, the use of a small 8-ampere, 
10-volt dynamo of the shunt-wound variety is to be rec- 
ommended on account of the steady and unvarying cur- 
rent it is capable of generating. It is utterly impossible 
to use dry cells, as they polarize too rapidly for work of 
this nature. A small rheostat should be included in the 



130 Model Engineering 

outfit, as it is often necessary that the cnrrent be properly 
proportioned for the work required from it. 

Successful electro-plating depends, to a great extent, 
upon the chemical purity of the solutions, and only the 
purest substances should be used in their preparation. 
If it is impossible to obtain pure distilled water, the 
next best substitute is rain water. 

Solution for Copper Plating. — First, make a saturated 
solution of copper sulphate (blue vitriol) by dissolving 
the crystals in a gallon of pure water until it is found 
that the crystals will no longer dissolve. The solution 
is then said to be ** saturated. " To this preparation add 
about a half teacup of chemically pure sulphuric acid, 
care being taken that the acid is poured in a small, gen- 
tle stream. After filtering through blotting paper, the 
solution is ready to be used or stored away in flasks un- 
til it is desired to use it. 

Solution for Nickel Plating. — Dissolve one pound of 
nickel- ammonium sulphate in one gallon of water. To 
this add about 2 tablespoonfuls of pure sulphuric acid. 
The preparation is then filtered, after which it is ready 
for use. After this solution is used for some time as a 
bath, it is advisable to test it Avith litmus paper to ascer- 
tain whether it is acid or alkaline, as there is a tendency 
for ammonium (NH4) to form, which renders the bath 
alkaline. In this case, sulphuric acid should again be 
added until the bath is just acid. 

Solution for Silver Plating. — Obtain two ounces of 
silver nitrate from a chemical supply house and dissolve 
it in two quarts of pure warm water. To this add a so- 
lution of cyanide of potassium (a deadly poison), which 
will cause the silver to precipitate as crystals of silver 
cyanide. Immediately discontinue adding the potassium 
cyanide after it is found that all the silver has precipi- 
tated. The whole solution is then filtered through blot- 
ting paper to recover *the crystals of silver cyanide 



l:l 



Electro-Plating 



131 



formed. The filtrate may tlien.be disposed of, as it is 
of no further nse. Now place the silver cyanide crystals 
in a vessel containing about one and one-half quarts of 
pure water and to this add potassium cyanide, stirring 
the solution at the same time until all the silver cyanide 
crystals have dissolved. We then have a standard so- 
lution of the double cyanide of silver which is used in 



hmchinejcrem 



M 



^Wef- 



-5i- 






Copper arx/ tr/cke/ e/ecfrodes 



Fig. 90 — Copper and silver electrodes for the electro-plating vat 



silver-plating. The solution may be kept in a clean, stop- 
pered bottle until it is used. 

Cleansing Solutions. — One of the most important 
operations in the process of electro-plating is that of 
properly preparing the surface of the articles to receive 
the deposit. The smallest speck of foreign matter upon 
the surface of the article to be plated is sufficient to 
cause the deposit to peel off. Many times the mere 
touching of the surface mth the fingers so contaminates 
the object that it becomes impossible to electro-plate it 
successfully mthout again putting it through the cleans- 
ing process. 

It is, of course, understood that the surfaces of the 
article to be plated should first be rendered sufficiently 
smooth by a mechanical process, if it is not already so. 



132 



Model Engineering 



In the case of the amateur, this can usually be accom- 
plished by polishing the surface with fine emery cloth. 

After the surface is mechanically prepared, it then 
becomes necessary to render it chemically clean before 
it is immersed in the plating bath. As it is impossible 
to prepare one cleansing or pickling bath that will be 
suited for all metals, it will be found necessary to mix 
several different pickles, one for each different metal. 

Before the articles are immersed in the pickle, they 
should be dipped in clean water, and after they are 




Fig. 91 — Diagram of connections for the plating outfit 



brought out of the pickle they should again be thoroughly 
rinsed in clean, running water before they are finally 
placed in the plating bath. The articles should be dipped 
in the pickle by means of a copper wire. 

Pickle for Copper, Brass and German Silver. — One 
hundred parts of sulphuric acid, 50 parts of^nitric acid 
and 1 part of table salt. Permit the preparation to stand 
one day before using. Use 100 parts of water and 10 
parts of sulphuric acid for zinc. 

PicMe for Iron and Sfeel. — One part sulphuric acid. 
15 parts water, % part nitric acid. It is advisable to 
add a few pieces of zinc to such a solution. 

When using the acid dips, especially in the case of 
copper and brass, care should be taken that the metal is 
not left too long in the pickle, as the acids act quickly 
and will pit the surface if permitted to act long enough. 

^- 



Electro-Plating 



133 



The proper method is to alternately dip the articles in 
Avater and then in the pickle until the surface appears 
hrigiit and clean. 

If it is desired to plate a brass article that has already 
a fine polish upon its surface, the acid cleansing bath 
should not be used, owing to its tendency to destroy the 
polish. A dip composed of 1 part of potassium cyanide 
to 10 parts of water may be substituted for the acid dip 
in this case. It will be foilnd necessary, to leave the 
brass much longer in this than in the acid pickle. 



^/n ce7/pt4:/s c/zz/es-. 




"Hi 



^/n Wiioden cf/3C'-' 



^ 



Comp/e/^ wheef. 




Fig. 92 — A simple polishing wheel arranged on a small hand grinder 



Hints. — When plating objects that have large pro- 
jections, the electrodes of the vat should be placed as f ar 
apart as possible, otherwise an unequal deposit will re- 
sult owing to the great current density at the projections 
where the resistance of the bath i^ least. 

In electro-plating, care should be taken that the de- 
posit does not form too rapidly, as plating of this nature 
invariably proves to have poor .adhesive qualities and 
soon peels off. Equally wrong is the practice of per- 
mitting the deposit to form too slowly. The current 
should be regulated by means of the rheostat, until the 
deposit formed is flesh-pink in the case of copper, and 
milky white in the case of silver and nickel. If the cur- 



134 Model Engineering 

rent is not of the proper proportion, the deposit has a 
noticeable tendency to become dark in color. 

If the plating solutions are not in use, they should be 
kept in stoppered vessels, otherwise they Avill become 
contaminated Avith foreign matter from the atmosphere. 

The articles should be dipped in the pickle on a cop- 
per wire, bent in the form of a hook, and, immediately 
after cleaning, the articles should be placed in the plat- 
ing vat by hanging the copper wire or hook on the cen- 
tral brass rod. 

The fact that the amount of current passing through 
the bath is dependent upon the proximity and size of the 
electrodes should be kept in mind. If a single small arti- 
cle is being plated, it is necessary to move the electrodes 
closer together in order to reduce resistance and permit 
sufficient current to pass owing to the small surface of 
the negative electrode which is formed by the article to 
receive the plating. 

Polishing and Finishing. — After the articles are taken 
from the plating vat, they should be washed in hot water 
and dried in a box of sawdust. The^^ are then ready to 
receive the final polishing, which may be done on a small 
grinding head equipped with a buffing wheel. If the 
mechanic is not fortunate enough to have one of these in 
his workshop equipment, a good substitute will be found 
in a bench grinder, which may be fitted Avith a polishing 
wheel, as shoAxm in Fig. 92. The polishing w^heel is made 
by cutting out about twenty 7-inch circles from thin can- 
vas and clamping them between two wooden discs as 
shoA\Ti. The purpose of the wooden discs is to hold the 
canvas circles in place under the pressure of polishing. 
With a helper to turn the grinder and a little rouge on 
the buffing wheel, very good polishing can be done. 



CHAPTER IX 

A MODEL SLIDE CRAXK STEAIM EXGIXE 

Description of the engine — Procedure in machining and finishing the 

various parts. 

This model represents what is probably the acme of 
simplicity in steam engine construction. It ranks favor- 
ably ^^ith the old type oscillating cylinder machines in 
this particular, although it is admittedly superior in 
point of mechanical efficiency and design. The entire 
absence of cross head and usual connecting rod, with 
their attendant difficulties from the builder's standpoint, 
leaves nothing to be desired. 

The principle of operation may not be clear at first 
glance at the drawing. A rather comprehensive ex- 
planation will, therefore, be given. The motion of the 
piston rod is imparted to the slide crank or cross piece 
wliich travels up and do^^m. Sliding within the hollowed 
out cross piece is a short cylinder which engages a pin 
on the cranlv disc attached to the shaft. The pin passes 
through the opening which runs the length of the cross 
piece. 

As the piston rod moves up and down, it causes the 
crank pin to describe a circle, the cylinder engaging the 
pin sliding from one end of the cross piece to the other. 

The steam ports are covered mth a slide valve of the 
usual type and in all other respects the little engine 
represents standard model design. • 

The cylinder casting is best held in a three jaw uni- 
versal chuck for boring and facing one end. It is then 
reversed in the chuck mth the faced-off end backing up 
against the chuck face to insure that the end to be faced 

135 



136 



Model Engineering 



will be truly parallel with the finished one. The valve 
seat is next to be considered, and the best way to ma- 
chine this is to mount the bored and faced casting upon 
an angle plate, taking the necessary cut off the valve 
seat. If no angle plate is available, the facing may pos- 
sibly be done with a file providing the worker is suffi- 
ciently expert in the use of this tool. A plane surface 




Fig. 93 — The slide-crank engine 



is best produced by drawing the casting across the face 
of a large, fine file, rather than by attempting to run the 
file across the casting. 

The cylinder heads may next be machined by holding 
the casting in the chuck by means of a chucking piece 
left for the purpose. Before removing the casting from 
the chuck, it is well to scribe the circle around which the 
holes for the cylinder head screws are to be drilled. By 
doing this in the chuck with a pointed tool, the layout 



A Model Slide Crank Steam Engine 137 

Avill be perfectly coincident with the bore of the cylinder. 
It is afterward a simple matter to lay off and prick 
pmich the locations for the six holes in each cylinder 
head. The hole for the piston rod and packing gland 
is, of course, to be drilled in the lower cylinder head 
casting before taking the latter from the chnck. 

When laying out the holes for the supporting. columns 
at either side of the engine, it is well to clamp the base 
plate and lower cylinder head together and to drill holes 
through both at one operation. This will insure perfect 
alignment. The columns are, as will be noted from the 



Fig. 94 — The complete set of castings for the slide-crank engine 

drawing, lengths of cold rolled steel rod shouldered down 
and threaded at either end. 

The hole in the center of the base plate may be spotted 
while the castings are still clamped together. It is, of 
course, quite essential that these holes line up perfectly 
to insure smooth running without undue friction. 

The machine work on piston, slide valve, and eccen- 
tric is so obvious as to require no special explanation. 
The cross slide may require a word or two, however. 
The casting is made with the cross member solid, and 
it should be drilled i/4 inch for the sliding cylinder while 
held in the chuck. The casting may then be turned 90 
degrees Avith the chuck jaws gripping the smaller pro- 
jection while the tailstock center engages a center hole 




3-46 TAP 

5-40 THO 



»4 p" ^ 



::& 




1 1 



4^:: 

fc 



%ise 



H0.30 DRILL 



m^ 



hn 



T.i^ 



^ 




inlco 



Fig. 95 — Detail drawing of the engine 



A Model Slide Crank Steam Engine 139 

in the longer end. A steady, smooth cut is then taken 
along this longer projection, turning it down to a fin- 
ished diameter of %6 inch. Reversing the casting again, 
and using a sleeve to protect the now finished longer • 
portion from injury by the chuck jaws, tlie smaller end 
may be drilled and tapped for the piston rod. Remov- 
ing the casting, the builder may then proceed to file away 
the side of the cross member so that the slide crank pin 
may enter to link the sliding cylinder with the crank disc. 

The bearing standards may next be drilled for the 
shaft with a drill a shade under %6 inch and holes placed 
in the feet. After cleaning up the under side with a file 
to make it square Avith the perpendicular, the bearings 
may be mounted on the base plate, great care being taken 
to see that the holes for the shaft line up perfectly with 
a line scribed the length of the base plate and passing 
exactly through its center. This is easily done by pass- 
ing a short piece of rod through the holes and in this 
manner sighting for alignment. When the holding down 
screws, have been inserted, a %6 inch reamer may be 
passed through both standards, clearing out the bear- 
ings and making absolutely certain that they line up 
perfectly. 

The turning of the flyw^heel finishes the machine work 
when the engine may be assembled. 



CHAPTER X 

A MODEL TWIN-CYLINDER ENGINE 

Description of the type of the engine — Machining the cylinder castings, 
crankcase, valve chest, crankshaft and valve mechanism — Finishing 
the engine. 

The model described below resembles the Westing- 
house high speed stationary steam engines used in driv- 
ing electric generators for lighting circuits. It is simple 
in design, serviceable in operation and presents no great 
difficulties in construction. 

This engine, when constructed from a set of magna- 
lite castings, makes a w^onderful power plant for a model 




r 






Fig. 96 — The twin-cylinder engine 



boat of from three to five feet long, and it delivers con- 
siderable speed and power. It will also be found to be 
a reliable and consistent runner, which is a valuable ad- 
vantage. ^ 

In building up a set of these castings, the first thing 

140 



A Model Twin-Cylinder Engine 141 

to do is to study the blue print so that the general ap- 
pearance of the engine will become familiar. 

Cylinder Castings. — The crankcase end Avith the six 
lugs or projections is first filed flat and true. If a small 




J ^ 



Fig. 97 — Main castings for the twin-cylinder engine 



lap grinder is available, this job can be done accurately 
and quickly on such a machine. Otherwise, the model 
maker Avill have to resort to filing. After this operation, 
the cylinder casting can be mounted on the face plate 
and the upward portion faced off. The casting will now 




Fig. 98 — The completed crankshaft for the engine, with flywheel, pistons 
and eccentric mounted in place 

have to be taken off the face plate so that the center 
lines can be scribed off for the centers of the cylinder 
bore. This is best done by*filling in the cored hole with 
cardboard and marking the centers with a lead pencil. 
The casting must now be mounted on the face plate again 
and the center marks on the cardboard lined up with the 



142 



Model Engineering 



back center of the lathe. When this is done, the card- 
board filling can be taken ont and the boring of the cylin- 
ders started. After finishing this, proceed in the same 
way to bore the other cylinder, after which both shonld 
be lapped out perfectly smooth. This is very essential 




Fig. 99 — Top view of the engine showing the steam chest uncovered 

for a perfect rnnning engine and for the development 
of maximum power. 

Cranhcase. — File the crankcase flat so that it makes 
a perfect joint with the cylinder casting. This job can 
also be performed on a lap grinder with success. Holes 




Fig. 100 — Complete set of patterns for the twin-cylinder engine 



are drilled and tapped and then both members are 
screwed together. The crankshaft bearings are best 
drilled by using the back center punch marks at each 
end, drilling first one side and then the other. A No. 1 
drill should be used and then the hole carefully reamed 
out with a standard 14-inch reamer. 



A Model Twin-Cylinder Engine 



143 



Valve Chest. — This casting is filed or gronnd flat to 
make a perfect joint with the top of the cylinder casting. 
Necessary holes are drilled and tapped and the end 
slotted for the bell crank. The bell crank is the medium 
between the eccentric and the valve stem. The inside 
of the steam chest can be milled out if a milling machine 
is available. Otherwise, one must resort to the old re- 
liable file and scraper. The valve stem passes through 
one end of the chest which has been drilled and fitted 




Fig. 101 — The crankcase of the engine after being machined 



with the usual packing nut. The valve chest cover is 
merely a piece of %-inch plate and screwed on the top 
of the valve chest. This plate has a hole drilled and 
tapped to take the steam pipe from the boiler. 

Pistons. — These are put in the lathe and turned to a 
snug fit in the cylinders. It is understood that the pis- 
tons must work freely. The pistons have ^^V" grooves 
turned in them which act as Avater rings. For extreme 
high pressure, piston rings of steel must be fitted. Holes 
are drilled in the pistons to take the Vs-inch wrist pin 
for the connecting: rods. 




■-If? 



3-A8T/qP, 




Fig. 102B — Details of the twin-cylinder engine 



146 Model Engineering 

Crankshaft. — This can be made out of a solid piece, 
but the designer of this engine has had some experience 
with built-up crankshafts and can heartily recommend 
them. In fact, he prefers them, knowing of one instance 
where a built-up crankshaft has stood the test of running 
from 10,000 to 12,000 E.P.M. without breaking. Make a 
jig for the crank webs. Drill and ream these standard 14 
inch, and then procure some oversize drill rod (about 253 
thousandths) and drive this through the crank webs. 
Then pin and braze the joints, after which the portion of 
the shaft that is between the web can be sawed out and 
the crankshaft cleaned and tiled up smooth. This pro- 
duces a very strong and rigid crankshaft with a minimum 
of trouble. 

Both types of crankshaft are shown in the drawing 
so that the builder can make either one. While the solid 
shaft is more durable, it is much more difficult to make 
than the built-up type. 

Valve Mechanism. — The drawing shows two different 
methods of making the valve mechanism. One is a lathe 
job, and the other can be made with ordinary .tools. Both 
methods are good; the only thing in favor of one is its 
ease of construction, and this can easily be seen from 
drawing. 

The only thing left to be done now is the putting on 
of the lagging, setting the valve and testing the engine. 
As for finish, a nice maroon enamel well baked on in an 
oven and then left to stand a couple of days to harden, 
gives a splendid appearance. The flywheel of the engine 
is merely a simple lathe job. • 



CHAPTER XI 



A SIXGLE-CYLINDER ENGINE 



General procedure in machining the .engine parts, employing the most 
practical methods — Finishing the engine. 

This particular design of engine is really tlie fore- 
rnnner of the *^ Speedy'' class of engines, having been 
built before the slide crank engine was designed. The 
engine has proven its worth on several occasions. 

In the finishing of a set of these engine castings, the 
first thing to take in hand would be the cylinder casting. 
This can very easily be held in a 3-jawed chuck and 
bored out with a boring tool % inch diameter. After 
the boring is completed, the cylinder should be faced off 
before the casting is taken out of the chuck. This in- 
sures the bore and the bottom of the cylinder being ab- 
solutely square with one another. Now the casting can 
be taken out of the chuck and turned around, using a 
packing piece behind the cylinder and against the chuck 
face to get both ends parallel. The next operation is to 
drill and tap the six holes for the cylinder head and base. 
If the builder is in possession of an angle plate that can 
be bolted to the face plate of his lathe, the cylinder can 
be mounted so that he can face off the valve seat of the 
cylinder. Otherwise he will resort to the more tedious 
process of file and straight edge. In drilling the steam- 
chest parts^ they must first be laid out (with a scribe) 
very accurately and then drilled with a hand drill to the 
depth shoA^^i on the drawing. The two steam ports are 
then drilled from their respective ends to meet the end 
ports drilled in valve face and the exhaust port is drilled 
to meet the center port. Care must be taken when drill- 

147 



148 



Model Engineering 



ing the ports that the drill does not break through from 
one port to another. 

The steam chest can now be fitted to the valve face 
after being filed or ground flat and true on both sides. A 
good method is to lay out the holes on the steam-chest 
casting and drill same and then use it as a jig for the 
holes to be drilled in the cvlinder and also for the holes 




Fig. 103 — The upright engine assembled, ready to run 



in the steam-chest corner. The various parts can now be 
screwed together, but not permanently. 

The cylinder base casting can now be taken in hand. 
This has chucking pieces cast on so that the necessary 
turning can easily be done. When facing off the stand- 
ard lugs, do not forget to face off the seat for the cross- 
head guide. This will save a lot of work afterward when 
the cross head guide is fitted. All holes should now be 
laid out and drilled as per drawing and then fitted to the 



A Single-Cylinder Engine 



149 



cylinder. Now turn np the piston and make the piston 
rod with the cross head, fit the cross-head guide to cylin- 
der base. Assemble all together and see that they Avork 
free. Do not forget to put the packing nut on the piston 
rod before screwing on the cross head. The slide-valve 
drawing is in detail and really needs no explanation. The 




COUNTERSUNK 
FOB HErtD 



'37 DRILL 
Fig. 104A — Details of the upright engine 



eccentric casting will also be found to have chucking 
pieces cast on. First, put it in the chucks so that the %- 
inch diameter can be turned, then take the offset and 
put in the chuck, center same and drill it with a %6-inch 
drill. You will find that the throw of the eccentric will 
be just right. The eccentric strap is then very easity 
made. 



■3-48 T<qP 



37 DRJLL 




3-48TflP 



i70eiLI^ 



5-48 




5 40T<=iP 



a 4" 






4 REOD 
Fig. 104B — Details of the upright engine 



A Single -Cylinder Engine 151 

The four %G-incli steel standards are turned up at 
each end and threaded %o, as per drawing. 

In bnilding the crankshaft, the crank disc is first 
ground flat, then drilled in the center for a driving fit 
for the %G-iiich shaft. After shaft has been driven in, 
it must be pinned and soldered to prevent it coming 
loose Avhen running at high speed. Noav the hole can be 
drilled and tapped for the shoulder screw which acts as 
the crankpin. 

The engine base must first be ground or filed flat on 
the top and bottom. In laying out the holes, care must 
be taken that the upright standard holes match those 
on the cylinder base. If the builder would make himself 
a jig, he could use same for both the base and cylinder 
bottom, thus insuring absolute alignment of the four 
standards. 

The holes for the crankshaft bearings are then drilled 
and tapped and the bearings fitted and drilled for the 
crankshaft. The flywheel needs no explanation, being 
a very simple lathe job. 

If, in assembling the engine, the cylinder and its vari- 
ous parts, the engine base with the standards, crankshaft 
and eccentric are considered separate units, the builder 
will find that if he has these two units working properly 
it will be a very simple matter to put the cylinder unit 
on the four standards and connect up his valve motion 
and connecting rod. Now lag the cylinder with some Rus- 
sian iron and enamel the cast parts red or green. The 
contrast between the enamel and the polished steel parts 
will make a very good looking model marine engine. 



CHAPTER XII 

A MODEL TWIN-CYLINDER MARINE ENGINE 

Description of the engine and various parts — Lathe and machine work 
necessary in finishing the engine — Making a built-up crankshaft for 
the engine. 

The beautifully executed model pictured and described 
in this chapter Avas built by the famous London model 
engineering firm of Whitney in City Road. The model 
is of brass throughout. Possibly for flash boiler steam, 
and that is admittedly the best for the purpose, it might 
be well to specify cast iron for the cylinders and pistons. 
It is said that brass or gunmetal will pit and otherwise 
cause trouble Avith very highly superheated steam. Ac- 
cordingly, it is the prerogative of the builder to decide 
which material to use. He has but to weigh the ease of 
construction of brass with the superior operating quali- 
ties of cast iron. 

While this model is not recommended as a project for 
the dabbler or the rank amateur in mechanics, its con- 
struction is delightfully simple for the worker who is 
possessed of a lathe and who knows how to use it. A 
screw cutting lathe is not essential as all of the work 
can be done with a small speed lathe fitted with a slide 
rest. Of course, the heavier the lathe, within limits, the 
easier the job and th*e better the workmanship. How- 
ever, the advanced model maker who is capable of using 
his head to overcome difficulties need not hesitate to 
undertake the construction on even a small bench lathe. 

The illustrations cover every detail of the engine, 
the working drawing being supplemented with photo- 
graphs of the part of the machine ready for assembly. 

152 



A Model Twin-Cylinder Marine Engine 153 

It is assumed that the worker who attempts the con- 
struction will be sufficiently familiar with lathe practice 
to be able to Avork directly from the drawings without 
detailed instruction. 

The one really difficult pattern is that for the stand- 
ards supporting' the cylinders which are cast en bloc. 




Fig. 105 — The twin-cylinder marine engine as it looks when finished 



The dividing line is, of course, that through the stiffen- 
ing web. A core is scarcely justified in the tunnel for the 
cross-head. The extra weight of metal, particularly if 
cast iron is used throughout, is not sufficient to warrant 
the extra trouble. Besides, it is practically as easy to 
drill through the cylindrical portion, following with the 
boring tool, as it is to get beneath the glass-hard scale 
^ left on the casting where the core has been. 



154 



Model Engineering 



The bed-plate, cylinders, flywheel, eccentrics and 
straps, bearing caps, steam chests, and the few pipe fit 
tings which are not standard, constitute the bulk of th( 







Fig. 106 — Plan of the engine 

other pattern work. The pistons, connecting rods, crank- 
shaft and packing glands are about as easily worked out 
of rolled stock as from castings. The one exception is 
the cross-head which is something of a nuisance to ma- 
chine. The blind slot in the cross-head is a difficult piece 
of work unless it is cored out in a casting and even then 
it is still a nuisance. Any worker who has tried to worry 
out a slot of this kind will appreciate the truth of the! 



J 



A Model Twin-Cylinder Marine Engine 

3'.!/ 



155 




156 Model Engineering 

statement. With good foundry work, the hole may be 
cored with more than fair success. Under such circum- 
stances, the little pattern is certainly worth making. 

The bed plate is a light casting that may be machined 
in one of several ways. Obviously, the professional 
method would be in a shaper, planer, or milling machine ; 
but how many model makers can boast of one of the trio f 
Next in order comes a straight facing job on the face 
plate of the lathe. The bed plate casting can be secured 
readily to a wooden face plate screwed to the iron one. 
Centering the job by means of scribed diagonals enables 
the worker to center, and consequently balance, the cast- 
ing on the face plate. 

It is best to face off the under side first, then revers- 
ing the casting and facing off the upper side to which the 
engine standards are attached. The edges may well be 
merely cleaned up with grinder and file and afterward 
painted unless the worker prefers a job finished in bright 
metal only. 

The crankshaft bearings are formed by drilling half 
into the bed plate and half into the bearing caps, one of 
which is shown above the part sectional view of the bed 
plate in end elevation. After cleaning up the bearing 
cap castings with file and grinder and finishing the under 
side by draiving the casting over the surface of a clean, 
fine, flat file, the caps may be located on the bed plate, 
the holes spotted, drilled and tapped for 6/32 fillister 
head screws, and the caps secured in place before the 
drilling for the crankshaft is attempted. Prick punch 
marks should be placed on each casting and just below 
it in the bed plate so that the bearing caps may be re- 
placed in the same order after they have been removed. 

The drilling should be done in the lathe. Build up 
a structure on the lathe bed to a height that will bring 
the dividing line between bearing caps and bed plate 
exactly in line with the lathe centers. Spot the hole to 



A Model Twin-Cylinder Marine Engine 157 



SieAM Chest r^^ Connjecting- T?od-;2,re.^. 





o 


o 


'•^i 

N 


"■*. 






o 


o 


1 ' 




4 




2 OF 
EACH 



FuvwHeeL. r~^ "^ 




1 


1 1 


^rr 


.— 1 1 — 




1 1 


" 


' I--. 



Fig. 108 — Details of the twin-cylinder marine engine 



158 . Model Engineering 

be drilled in the casting on each side and start the drill 
on the one side while the casting is backed up by the 
tailstock center on the other. This will positively insure 
accuracy and alignment. When the one side is drilled, 
run the drill right through until it passes through the 
middle bearing, and then reverse the work so that the 
drilled side rests against the center and the undrilled side 
is presented to the tool. When this is finished, the three 
holes are sure to be perfectly in line. 

The drill should be %4th of an inch under %6 if a 
reamer is available, and one is really necessary in this 
case. When the drilling is finished, the %6-inch reamer 
is passed right through the three bearing holes which fin- 
ishes them to size and, of course, to line also. To make 
a running fit for the shaft, the latter will have to be 
ground in with fine emery and oil. 

The two cylinder castings are exactly alike, so the 
operations will be described for one only. A simple 
method of facing off the bottom of the feet is to grip the 
top, or lower cylinder head portion, in a three- jaw chuck, 
centering the central cylindrical portion which will ulti- 
mately be bored out. With the tailstock center brought 
up, the cut may be taken readily from the feet. The cast- 
ing may then be taken from the chuck and mounted upon 
a face plate with the faced-off feet secured to it through 
the holes which will later take the final holding down 
screws when the engine is assembled. The end of the 
casting is then center-drilled, and the center brought up 
to permit the facing off of the cylinder head portion to 
dimensions given in the drawing. 

When this is finished and a scribe circle struck with 
the sharp tool on the face of the cylinder head portion to 
serve as a guide in locating the holes for the screws, the 
tailstock center may be removed and a drill chuck sub- 
stituted. A large drill may then be run through the cast- 
ing to start the cross head tunnel. The greatest care must 



A Model Twin-Cylinder Marine Engine 159 

CYLlNOEe.5 /y^Z^^ I'Rec^ 




Fig. 109 — The cylinder block and standards of the twin-cylinder 
marine engine 



160 



Model Engineering 



be taken here to see that the drill does not bite and to 
this end it should be properly ground. If brass is used, 
the lip of the drill should be taken off by all means ; with 
cast iron it is not so important but, even so, there should 
be no unnecessary risks taken to save time. 

The boring may then be started through the drilled 
hole. If the depression on each side of the cylindrical 



^^" 



-^^ 



CCANK SHAFT 1 TtEQ. 



Cut Away 






\\^ 





Cylinceh. Head 

a REQ. 



.^P^^ 



Cut a wax 



Cut Away 




U.. -/- J 

Fig. 110 — The crankshaft of the twin-cylinder marine engine 



portion catches during the operation of boring, it is very 
much better to use a steady rest on the turned cylinder 
head portion. This may be done without defacing the 
work serioush^, and if it is marred, a light cut at the 
end will remove the marks. The steady rest will prevent 
danger from bites due to the lack of stiffness in the work. 
To get a dead smooth cut at the final one, the boring 
tool should be sent through in the usual way with the cut- 
ting edge doing its chipping after the manner of a dia- 



A Model Tmn-Cylinder Marine Engine 161 

mond point on external work; then, and this is the trick, 
witliont tnrning the cross feed handle, bring the tool back 
ont again with the natural spring of the tool, taking a 
dragging cnt after the fashion of a side facing tool. This 
final cut will leave the inside of the tunnel with a bur- 
nished surface if the feed has been very slow and the 
cut exceedingly light. 

From the description just given, the worker will note 
that the end of the casting that would naturally form the 
cylinder head has been bored out. There is a double 
reason for this: First, there is no other easy way of 
boring the cross head tunnel and, secondly, it is much 
easier to fit a plug containing the packing gland, the con- 
struction of which is well shown in the drawing, to the 
bored out casting than it would be to attempt such a fit- 
ting up inside the tunnel. The actual packing is a piece 
of lamp-wick well greased and wound around the pis- 
ton rod. 

The two cylinders are cast en bloc. The casting is 
considerably lighter than the pictures of the finished en- 
gine would seem to indicate as the smooth, external sur- 
face is of sheet metal which forms a ^ lagging" or cover- 
ing which encloses an air space to keep the cylinders hot 
and in that manner prevent, as far as possible, the con- 
densation of the steam within the cylinders. The draw- 
ings show how this space is formed, the dotted lines indi- 
cating the lines of the actual cylinder wall in the plan 
view. 

For facing off, the casting may be mounted upon the 
wooden face plate with the casting centered. After the 
cut is taken, the work may be reversed to face the other 
side. The casting is then scribed accurately with center 
line and the two holes spotted to indicate cylinder bores. 
The casting is again mounted, but this time the center is 
1)rought up to one of the spot marks indicating one cyl- 
inder bore. After clamping securely, the casting may be 



162 



Model Engineering 




Fig. Ill — The parts of the finished engine 



A Model Twin-Cylinder Marine Engine 163 

drilled, but first of all the whole job should be balanced 
by bolting a small mass of metal to the side of the face 
plate to compensate for the lack of balance and to pre- 
vent vibration which would destroy the accuracy of the 
work. The boring of one cylinder finished, the casting 
may be changed over so that the other may be bored. 

The casting ma}^ then be removed from the face plate 
and the ports drilled and chipped out. Before doing this 
operation, however, the slide valve faces may be ma- 
chined. The right way to do this is on an angle plate 
in the lathe after the cylinders have been bored and 
faced off. An alternative method is to file and grind the 
face true, or. as nearly so as the skill of the worker will 
permit. 

The little kink used for the slide valve rod is a good 
one, and the isometric sketch will aid in showing its prin- 
ciple. The reader will note that this stunt affords a uni- 
versal coupling within the steam chest, making it possible 
for the pressure of the steam to keep the slide valve 
tight against the face. 

The piston is turned right on the piston rod which 
serves as an arbor. This insures accuracy in the finished 
job. The piston is packed with wicking in the groove 
turned for it. 

The crankshaft requires special attention as it pre- 
sents some difficulties to the uninitiated. Two methods 
of construction are permissible. One is the solid forging 
construction and the other the built-up shaft method. 
The latter only will be considered here as it is believed 
the former is well understood by those who are capable 
of handling it. 

The crankshaft ma}^ be made with crank webs at 90 
degrees or 180 degrees. The model pictured has the 
90-degree crankshaft which presents the advantage of no 
dead center. However, such a shaft is unbalanced and 
when the engine runs at high speed the vibration is rather 



16-i Model Engineering 

excessive. Tlie ISO-degree shaft obviates the latter diffi- 
culty but introduces the unfortunate dead center ^vhen 
the tTvo pistons are at the extremes of their travel. How- 
ever, it is for the builder to decide Avhicli of the t^vo e^T.ls 
is the lesser. To beat them both, he has only to add a 
balancing weight to the cranlv web opposite the i3in. 

The bnilt-np cranl^shaft is constructed of cold rolled 
steel for the webs and steel drill rod for the shaft and 
13 ins. The webs are laid out, centers punched, and holes 
drilled /64 inch under ?i6. The drilling may be done in 
the lathe, the work being held against the tailstock drill 
pad and the drill in the lathe chuck. For conA'enience in 
handling, it is well to drill all holes in the bar of steel 
before it is cut to form the webs. The holes must be very 
carefully laid out and center punched. 

AAlien the drilling has been finished, the bar may be 
cut up into the four pieces forming the webs. These 
pieces may be stacked and a piece of cold rolled steel 
passed through one set of holes to line up the pieces. A 
clamp may then be put on and a ^^lo-inch reamer run 
through the uncovered set of holes. The latter may then 
be filled ^dtli a second piece of rod made for an easy push 
fit. The first rod is then removed and the reamer run 
through that set of holes. The Avebs are then to be as- 
sembled on an arbor, placed first in one set of holes and 
then the other, so that a lathe cut may be taken off the 
ends. This A\ill finish the Avebs nicely. 

The final assembly should be upon the ^ie-inch drill 
rod forming the shaft and wrist x)ins. This rod T\dll be 
a very snug fit in the holes, and before the shaft is assem- 
bled the web i^ieces should be removed from the arbors 
and heated, on a piece of wire, in a Bunsen flame until 
they just begin to turn blue. Wliile liof. they are i^laced. 
by means of tongs, on the cold shafts in exactly the posi- 
tions they are to occupy. The shafts should previously 
have been marked plainly for each web. A~\liile the webs 



A Model Ticin -Cylinder Marine Engine 165 

are hot, they will be an easy twist fit on the shafting; 
when they cool, however, they will contract upon the 
shafting so that it will be all but impossible to tnrn the 
shaft rod in the hole. 

AVhen the job has cooled, holes may be drilled through 
each web and through the shaft it encloses for small steel 
pins which will fmish the job of locking the i^arts together. 
After these pins have been driven, and not before, the 
superfluous shafting may be cut away, leaving the com- 
plete crankshaft ready to be finished up either between 
lathe centers or with a fine file. The cleaning up opera- 
tion is merely one of removing the burrs of the hacksaw 
used to cut away the extra shafting from between webs. 

This completes the machine work of importance. The 
cylinder heads, fly-wheel, exhaust and inlet pipes, elbows, 
and tees are all simple pieces of work that need not be 
described. 



CHAPTER XIII 



FLASH STEAM PLAINTS 



How flash steam plants operate — Description of the various parts and 
fitting employed in a flash plant — Eegulation of the water supply — 
Lubrication — Difficulties in adjustment — Gasolene burners for flash 
steam plants. ^ 

Flash steam plants are more adaptable to the pro- 
pulsion of model steam boats than ordinary ^^pof boil- 
ers, as they generate steam more rapidly and are there- 
fore able to fnrnish more power to the engine. Although 
somewhat more unwieldy to handle than ordinary boilers 
and somewhat difficult to adjust, they are, nevertheless, 
preferred for model speed-boat work. All the present 
records are held by boats propelled with flash steam 
plants, which alone is enough to indorse their use. 

The average American model maker is not very 
familiar Avith the operation and construction of flash 
steam plants and the following paragraphs are devoted 
to the method of operation and the general features of 
construction. 

The illustration. Fig. 112, shows a complete flash 
steam plant and the method of connecting the various 
parts. The small tank shown at A is used to hold the 
gasolene which is fed to the burner C. The gasolene 
passes through the vaporizing coils, which are wound 
around the outer surface of the burner. The nipple at 
the end of the vaporizing coils has a very small aperture 
through which a fine spray of gasolene passes into the 
cylinder of the burner, where violent combustion takes 
place, and the flame produced shoots forward into the 

166 



of 
cQ 
II- 
O 




168 3Iodel Engineering 

l)oiler coils, which contain the water. The gasolene burner 
is very simple in construction and is antomatic in its 
•operation after being started. The gasolene from the 
fuel tank, in circulating through the vaporizing coils, 
becomes hot and its vapor pressure is increased to such 
an extent that it comes forth with considerable force 
through the small opening in the nipple. A valve is 
placed in the fuel tank to cut off or regulate the supply 
of gasolene. The small opening and cap is also fitted to 
the tank through which it is filled. The tank can either 
be made of sheet brass or copper and all joints should be 



mWm 



*^^,*^ 



rig. 113 — A gasolene blow torch for a flash-steam plant 



silver soldered. The vaporizing coil should either be 
made of steel or copper tubing, preferably steel. The 
burner is started in much the same way as the ordinary 
gasolene torch is lit. The valve in the fuel tank is opened 
and a little gasolene is run into the burner. This is ignited 
and at first a very smoky flame results, but as this flame 
continues, the vaporizing coils become heated and the 



Flash Steam Plants 169 

flame gradually changes to an intense blue and produces 
a great amount of heat. After the burner is operating 
satisfactorily, the feed valve on the fuel tank is opened 
full. After a few minutes of operation, the engine will 
be ready to start and it is given a few sharp turns to start 
the main water pump, shown at E in the drawing. The 
gasolene burner can also be heated by means of another 
burner to start it. 

The water pump E is generally geared to the pro- 
peller shaft with a ratio of 5 : 1, but this may vary with 
the stroke and bore of the pump. It is the purpose of 
this pump to start and maintain the circulation of water 
through the boiler coils. A hand starting pump is also 
included in the equipment, and this is shown in the draw- 
ing at F. If the equipment is provided with a hand start- 
ing pump, it Avill not be necessary to twist the engine 
shaft to start the main water pump E, as the initial pres- 
sure of water can be raised by the hand pump, thereby 
obviating the necessity of turning the engine over, which, 
in some cases, is rather a dangerous thing to do, as the 
engine is apt to start oif and catch the operator 's fingers 
in the mechanism. It must be remembered that the 
engine starts with a rush and has considerable force 
behind it. When the hand pump is used in starting, the 
engine is placed at its dead center. It will be seen from 
the drawing that both the hand pump F and the main 
water pump E obtain their supply of water from the res- 
ervoir G. The water is taken from this source and forced 
through the boiler coils. The water is only able to pass 
through the main pump E in one direction, as the valves 
prevent it from flowing backward. 

When the water from the pumps reaches the boiler 
coils, through the center of which the gasolene flame is 
burning, it instantly *^ flashes" into steam and by the 
time this steam has reached the end of the coils toward 
the engine, it has become highly superheat^ed and imparts 



170 



Model Engineering 



maximnm power to the piston of the engine. When the 
engine is starting, it is sometimes advisable to manipu- 
late the hand pump, as this assists the main water pnmp 
to pick up and produce maximum pressure in the water 
flow. After the engine is working satisfactorily, the 
small hand pump F is cut off from the rest of the system 
by means of a valve shown at H. The engine is now 
able to drive the water pump E, which is pow^erful enough 
to produce the necessary flow of water in the boiler coils. 
The engine is also required to drive the small oil pump 
which is shown at I. This pump is supplied with lubri- 



SUPPLY COCK 




Fig. 114 — Drawing of a gasolene torch for a flash-steam boiler 



eating oil through the reservoir M. The gear ratios of 
the pump gears are shown in figures on the drawing, 
and it will be noticed that the oscillating motion of the 
pump piston will be very slow. Owing to the fact that a 
small amount of solid matter contained in the oil would 
prove fatal to the successful operation of the engine, a 
copper gauze strainer is used in the tank and the oil must 
pass through this before it reaches the feed pipe at the 
bottom of the tank. Solid matter is thus prevented from 
fouling the engine. The oil pump produces a discharge 
of oil in the steam supply pipe from the boiler coils. The 
lubricating oil is thus mixed with superheated steam just 
before it enters the cylinder of the engine. The lubri- 



Flash Steam Plaiits 



171 



eating oil used should be rather viscid so that the high 
temperature of the steam will not cause it to become too 
thin and burn. 

Attention is again dra^Mi to the water reservoir. The 
capacity of this is not necessarily large ; on the contrary, 
it is quite small. It will be noticed also that the water is 
first filtered through a copper gauze strainer before it 
reaches the feed pipe of the pumps. This prevents trouble 
that would be caused by solid matter in the water reach- 
ing the pumps. Due to the fact that the water reservoir 



•VALVES 







TIRE. V^LVEL 




Fig. 115 — A double gasolene burner 



is placed below the water line of the boat, it will remain 
full when the model is at rest. When the boat is in 
motion the water reservoir is kept full by the scoop shown 
at J. The rapid forward motion of the boat tends to 
force water upward through the scoop into the tank, 
the::eby keeping it full. A small overflow pipe is arranged 
at ':he top of the tank and this discharges over the side 
of the boat. The overflow pipe also provides an escape 
for air when the boat is first placed in the water. 

A covering is made for the boiler coils and burner and 
this is usually shaped out of steel and prevents draft 



172 Model Engineering 

from deflecting the flame from the center of the boiler 
coils. The steam exhanst from the engine cylinder is led 
to the funnel on the covering of the boiler coils, where 
it discharges into the onter atmosphere. This tends to 
produce the proper circulation of air in the covering, 
so that the burner obtains a sufficient supply of oxygen 
for its most efficient operation. The check valve in the 
water supply pipe shown at K prevents water from re- 
turning if the delivery valve in the main pump does not 
function properly. The relief cock shown at R is opened 
Avhen it is desired to stop the plant. When the relief cock 
is open, the water and steam pressure of the system is 
relieved. All the joints, cocks and valves of the water 
system must be absolutely air and water tight to produce 
an efficient plant, as the least leakage will seriously im- 
pair the successful operation of the device, as the press- 
ure is very high throughout the entire system. This pre- 
caution will not be necessary with the oil-feed system, 
as the oil used is very heavy and no trouble will be ex- 
perienced by leaky joints if ordinary care is exercised in 
making them. The water pumps for use with flash steam 
systems are always provided with mushroom valves. 
Such valves are more reliable than the other type, and 
their use is strongly recommended. 

After a flash steam plant is started, it will work auto- 
matically, providing all the parts are in good running 
order. The blow-lamp heats the boiler coils and these in 
turn generate superheated steam which is fed directly 
into the engine cylinders. 

Flash steam plants, however, are very difficult to get 
to the proper adjustment, and when once adjusted are 
very easily put out of adjustment by minor causes. Being 
that every square inch of surface in the flash coils is heat- 
ing surface, the amount of water supplied to the boiler 
must be exactly what it requires. The heat must also be 
regulated so that the temperature of the steam will be 



Flash Steam Plants 173 

of just the correct value for the engine's needs. Being 
that the steam is highly superheated before it enters the 
engine, the valve and engine parts must all be made of 
steel to withstand the severe attack of the heat. An in- 
crease of heat causes the temperature of the steam to rise 
and also increases its expansion. Many times the tem- 
perature of the superheated steam is so high that it Avill 
burn up the lubricating oil before it reaches the cylinder 
of the engine. AMien the lubricant becomes ineffective 
the results are apt to be very disastrous to the en- 
gine, as great friction is caused and seizing is apt to 
occur. 

If the heat of the burner falls off for any reason, the 
steam is not raised to a sufficient!}^ high temperature and 
will not be thoroughly dry at the time it enters the cylin- 
der of the engine. AATien this condition occurs, the boiler 
coils are unable to vaporize the water that is circulating 
through them from the pump, and in a short time the 
boiler floods and the engine is fed mth a large percentage 
of water in place of steam. It is necessary that a flash 
steam plant, to operate successfully, must be supplied 
with exactly the amount of Avater, heat and steam it 
requires in operation. Thus, it will be seen that to obtain 
the maximum power from such a plant adjustments must 
be made ver^^ accurately and with great care. 

For model power boats, flash steam plants are much 
more successful and efficient than ordinary pot boilers, 
as they generate greater power for given weight and fuel 
consumption. 

It will be understood that it is almost impossible to 
heat a flash steam boiler by any method other than the 
gasolene blow torch, as the flame from this completely 
covers the surface of the entire boiler coils. 

Flash boilers can also be made with double coils and 
in this case it is, of course, necessary to employ twin 
burners to fire them with. Double coil flash boilers are 



174 Model Engineering 

capable of developing considerable power and are very 
suitable for racing craft of the larger type. 

It is necessary to encase all flash boilers with Enssian 
iron which prevents heat radiation and also protects the 
flame from drafts. The inside of the Russian iron casing 
should be lined with asbestos. 



CHAPTER XIV 

A FLASH STEAM PLANT FOR LARGE MODEL AIRPLANES 

A description of the engine and what it is capable of doing — Machine 
work necessary to finish the engine — A flash steam plant for the 
engine and how to make it. 

In view of the great activity recently evinced in the 
designing of model power plants for aviation and other 
purposes, this compact and efficient power plant should 
prove of considerable interest. Providing as it does a 
self-contained plant of sufficient power to make it emi- 




Fig. 116 — The four-cylinder steam engine assembled 

nently practical and of great utility, the construction of 
this engine at once supplies the model maker with a 
most interesting project, and furnishes him with a 
reliable source of poAver. "While no special effort was 
made to secure lightness, as the engine was originally 
designed to propel a canoe, for Avhich purpose it has 
proven perfectly successful, the power plant is not too 

175 



176 



Model Engineering 



heavy for the large airplane model which it wonld be 
capable of driving, and would undoubtedly prove an ideal 
solution to the propulsion problem in connection with 
such a model. In fact, the author considers that it would 
vindicate the employment of steam vs. other prime mov- 
ers in whatever field in which it might be put, and in 
addition, the construction alone would be of sufficient 




Fig. 117 — The four-cylinder engine and its flash boiler 



interest to repay the model maker for his expense and 
labor. 

The engine, which Avill deliver a maximum of about 
21/2 H.P., utilizes steam from a flash boiler in four single- 
acting, radially disposed c^dinders. From the standpoint 
of compactness, there is little doubt that this arrangement 
is superior to any other, and a great simplification of 
valve mechanism is also secured. In this case, the distri- 
bution of steam to the four stationary cylinders which 
are, of course, at an angle of 90 degrees to each other, is 



178 Model Engineering 

effected by means of a rotating member flexibly coupled 
to the crankshaft and revolving in a casing connected with 
the steam supply and with the cylinder heads. This mem- 
ber carries on its periphery two ports, one, communi- 
cating continually with a small chamber under pressure 
from the boiler, serves to admit steam to the cylinders in 
succession as it passes the ends of the pipes connected 
with the cylinders, and is of such length as to cut off the 
admission of steam to the cylinders after about 20 degrees 
of the inlet stroke; the other port is in communication 
with the atmosphere by a series of holes and permits the 
cylinders to exhaust during about 80 degrees of the 
stroke. The general appearance of the engine is conveyed 
by Fig. 118. The four pistons are all connected to a sin- 
gle crankpin b}^ means of a disc rigidly affixed to one con- 
necting rod, and carrying supports for the other three 
rods on which they may pivot slightly as the crankshaft 
revolves. 

One of the most unique features of the engine de- 
scribed beloAv is that no castings are required; all parts 
being made either of cold rolled steel or brass stock. 

The crankcase of the engine is constructed first. This 
particular part is sho\\Ti clearly in the detail sketch, 
Fig. 122. In bending the stock, care should be exercised 
as this forms the foundation of the whole machine and 
any inaccuracy here would be fatal to the successful oper- 
ation of the engine. The joint in the case is dovetailed 
and while this may appear difficult to accomplish, it is the 
only practical procedure. After the joint is accurately 
cut, the case is scalded in boiling water to remove all 
greasy substances from its surface. After this, the joint 
is silver soldered in a smokeless forge fire. 

The bosses, which hold the cover plates of the crank- 
case to the case proper, are riveted to the sides as shown 
in Fig. 122. After the cover plate is drilled, it can be 
held in place on the case and used as a jig to drill the 



Steam Plant for JLatye Model Airplanes 179 

holes in the bosses. A %2 drill is used and the holes 
tapped out with a %-40 tap. 

The holes in the crankcase, over which the cylinders 
set, are bored ont on a lathe as it is impossible to do this 
on a drill press owing to the light weight of the stock. 
The main bearings are bronze, split and held in place 
with a flange and nut. The bearings should be carefully 
reamed out with a hand reamer. 

The crankshaft is worthy of mention on account of 
the difficulties involved in making it from a single piece 
of stock. A piece of stock measuring % x 1% x 6 inches 



Fig. 119 — The fuel tank for the gasolene burner 

will be needed. After cutting out the rough form with a 
hack saw, the main shaft is turned to diameter. The 
crankpin is turned down next, and, after this is done, the 
inside of the Avebs are faced off. 

The cylinders are turned from 1%-inch square cold 
rolled steel stock and a square flange is left on the base. 
The cylinder bore should be finished carefully with a 
hand reamer to insure accuracy and high compression. 

The pistons are turned out of li4-inch cold rolled steel 
rod. The stock is turned do^ATi to 1% inches and a 1-inch 
hole bored out to a depth of ^Me inch. After the holes 
to accommodate the wrist pins are drilled the contact 
surface of the piston should be carefully polished. • 



180 



Model Engineering 



The connecting rod is made of two pieces — one of 
brass and one of steel. The cross piece is cut from brass 
and drilled with a i/4-inch drill. Only three of the con- 
necting rods are made identical ; the fourth being diif er- 




Fig. 120 — The engine with a propeller attached to its shaft 



ent at the lower end where it is fixed to the master 
bearing. 

The lower bearings for the three connecting rods are 
cut from brass stock to a diameter of ^%2 inch and drilled 
eccentrically with a i/4-inch drill. The bearing on the 
fourth or master connecting rod is made from a piece of 
square brass stock with a semicircular cut in one end 
where it rests on the crankpin after it is fitted into the 
slot of the master bearing. Both the bearings and cross 



Steam Plant for Large Model Airplanes 181 

pieces are secured to the connecting rods by means of 
silver solder. 

The valve casing is turned out of steel to exact diam- 
eter with a shoulder at one end to hold the distributor 
in place. The interior of the opposite end of the valve 
case is threaded to accommodate a face plate which is 
drilled in the center with a y^-iwoh. hole for the steam 



Ordinary Tirc Valvc 



Filling Cap 




Fig. 121 — Drawing of the fuel tank for the gasolene torch 

inlet. AVhen the plate is screwed in place, there should 
be a small space between it and the distributor to act as 
a steam chest. A small spring is also placed between 
the plate an 1 the distributor to keep the 'latter against 
the shoulder. The steam pipe from the boiler is con- 
nected with the face plate by means of a small flange and 
four screAvs, interposing a leather gasket. The distrib- 
uting element should be made to lit the case as perfectly 
as possible, as a poor tit will cause leakage, which wdll 
reduce the efficiency of the engine. 



^ 1^ 

1 E 




03 


tr> 


H E 




• 3" 












O G 




05 


h 


o o 




o o 




3" 






— if^ 





^ -Rcci. 



S)^|^ 



A-Rea. 



^ii 



a-f?tQ.. 









- 


(dv 












;6 






" — - 






'j'^^r^- 



I — ^ 



-i,J^ 



as 

3-f?Ea. 



3 



/^^ 



4-REa. 



4 






-f- h 'F \ 



4--REQ. 





in 



'^^ -lO 



1 



Fig. 122 — Details of the four-cylinder steam engine 



Steam Plant for Large Model Airplanes 183 






A 






@ 



\i 






^ 




^ Z ' 



^^lj 



^g^ 



60 TccTH Gear 





o 






o 


o 


1 
1 


^'^ 


~-^ 












'^ 










2-REQ. 



^■^- 




1 ^J/y'y'^.'^J^yy//^^J// 



■^eut q 




i.lr 



"T 



ki-J 



pOq 

O Q 



16^ 



Fig. 123 — Details of the four-cylinder steam engine 



184 Model Engineering 

' The distributing tubes are bent by first filling tliem 
with either lead, sand or resin — preferably lead for a real 
good job — the filling being tapped or melted out after 
bending. One end of each distributing tube is furled to 
make a steam-tight joint where they are connected to the 
tubes on the valve case by means of unions. 

All parts of the water pump are made of brass with 
the exception of the frame and clamp which are of sheet 
steel. The pump proper is held in place by forcing it 
between the sides of the clamp which is depicted in the 
detail drawings, this being riveted to the frame. The 
gear on the pump meshes with the one cut in the crank- 
shaft ; the ratio being 4 : 1. The pump discharge is con- 
nected to the front end of the inside coil of the boiler. 

Having constructed the engine, the next consideration 
is, of course, the boiler. IVliere compressed air in large 
quantities is available, this makes a satisfactory substi- 
tute for steam and, except for the cooling effect due to 
its expansion, is probably superior to steam. But it 
should be borne in mind that the quantity of air required 
for a motor of this size is considerable, and it is vital 
that a heavy supply be available. The same is true 
regarding carbon dioxide and similar propulsion medi- 
ums; they are admirable for testing purposes, but the 
large consumption of the engine renders steam the most 
practical operating fluid. It should be mentioned in this 
connection that in an engine having as high an expansion 
ratio as this one, the cooling resulting from the employ- 
ment of gas compressed in cylinders, as in the case with 
CO2, becomes serious. 

The boiler, shown in Fig. 124, is of the flash type, and 
is supplied with water from a suitable supply by the 
engine pump described above. The coil is double and is 
constructed of 14-inch copper tubing. This is wound on 
a mandrel, slightly under 1 inch in diameter, to the length 
of a foot. When completed, the coil will spring open suffi- 





•i-i 



186 Model Engineering 

ciently to allow its removal from the mandrel, and will 
now be of the correct diameter, although some latitude 
in this respect is permissible. Some heavy gauge sheet 
brass is wrapped around this coil to bring its diameter 
up to a scant 2 inches, and the outside coil is wound back 
over this. The brass is withdra^^m after the operation. 
A casing of galvanized sheet iron 20 inches long is 
wrapped around the coils as shown in the dramng, which 
also shows the connections and makes the general assem- 
bly clear. A cone 3 inches long is affixed to the front of 
the casing. The burner is a gasolene torch on the familiar 
Bunsen principle, and is supplied with fuel from a small 
tank under air pressure, applied with a tire pump. The 
preheating and vaporizing coil is of i/4-inch seamless steel 
tubing, given a few turns around the main burner tube 
of 1-inch steel tubing Avhile red hot. The main tube is 
about 4 inches long and is fitted at the back with the fuel 
nozzle and perforated air supply plate shown in the 
detail drawings. The framework around the casing is 
of i/4-iiich square cold rolled steel stock, and the case 
may be fitted with sockets in which suitable supports 
can rest. 



CHAPTER XV 

A FLASH STEAM PLANT FOR SMALL MODEL AIRPLANES 

Operation and design of the engine — How the engine is made — Design 
for a six-cylinder engine working on the same principle. — Descrip- 
tion of a flash steam plant to drive the engine. 

The development of a suitable power plant for very 
small model airplanes has long been the ambition of a 
great many model enthusiasts. To the advanced model 
maker there is not a more interesting and fascinating 
branch than that of model airplaning. 

The use of steam as a motive poAver for airplanes is, as 
Ave all knoAv, a very old idea, having been first attempted 
by Stringf elloAv in 1846 in England, by Langley in 1896 in 
America, and of late years by Messrs. W. 0. Manning, 
H. H. Groves, and V. E. Johnson in England. The experi- 
ments of these last three gentlemen, as recorded in the 
Model Engineer and Electrician, have been a great 
incentive and also exceedingly helpful and instructive to 
the writer in the development of the flash steam plant 
al30ut to be described. 

Fig. 126 shoAvs the general arrangement of the engin'e, 
])oiler, fuel container, and burner. 

The engine is of the single-acting rotary type, having 
three cylinders — the bore % inch and the stroke % inch. 
The cylinders are of Tobin bronze, bored out quite thin, 
and supported radially from the valve by holloAV columns 
on one side, and by the propeller bracket on the other. 
Xeedless to say, the valve is of the rotary type Avhich 
admits steam to each cylinder successively as the pipes, 
or supporting columns, pass over the inlet port. As 
shoAvn in Fig. 130, steam is admitted during 50 per cent 

187 



188 Model Engineering 

of the stroke, or while the engine revolves 90 degrees; 
then the cut-off takes place and the engine works on the 
expansion of the steam during the next 90-degree turn. 




^ig. 125 — The three-cylinder engine mounted on a model airplane 

The exhaust port is then uncovered during practically 
the entire return stroke of the piston. 

The valve also forms the main and only bearing on 
which the engine revolves, and is made in a taper form 
so that any leakage or wear may readily be taken up. 
The crank is screwed and locked on the end of the valve. 
This allows the former to be set for either direction of 
rotation, and for the timing of the steam inlet and cut-oif . 

All joints and pipe connections are silver soldered, 
as soft solder would soon melt out under the high tem- 
perature at which the engine operates. The propeller 



Steam Plant for Small Model Airplanes 189 

mounting consists simply of a star-shaped piece of 
%4-inch steel brazed to the cylinders, and the propeller 
is held to this by means of a screw and nut. Three driv- 
ing puis are set in the plate, which assures a positive 
drive to the propeller. 

The weight of the engine alone is 3i/4 ounces. This 
light weight for an engine capable of developing a quarter 
horse power can be obtained only in one of the radial 




Fig. 126 — The complete power plant 



cylinder types, because of the absence of a long multi- 
throw crankshaft with its correspondingly extensive 
crankcase and bearings. 

The flash boiler was made from 8 feet of i/^-inch inside 
diameter copper tubing wound up on a tapered mandrel. 
The over-all length is 71/2 inches, being 1% inches in 
diameter at the burner end and 1% inches at the tail end. 
The super-heater consists of two loops of the same mate- 
rial placed in the center of the coils, one end of which is 
brazed to the latter, and the other end fitted with a 



Steam Plant for Small Model Airplanes 191 



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192 



Model Engineering 



screwed connection for the purpose of connecting it to 
the hollow crankshaft of the engine. 

Water is supplied to the boiler at "the big end of the 
coils from a force feed pump, which is driven by the 
engine through a train of gears, giving a reduction of 
5 to 1. As shown in Fig. 128, the crank pin may be set at 
various radii, thereby altering the stroke ; i.e., the amount 
of water pumped to the boiler. A very rigid and light 




Fig. 128 — How the pump is geared to the engine 



frame was constructed of umbrella ribbing for the pump 
support and its gearing. The pump piston and cylinder 
are made of brass, the former being about % inch in 
diameter and is fitted with two packing rings. Bronze 
balls are used in the check valves to prevent corrosion 
and sticking. A good seating for these valves is obtained 
by placing a steel ball of the same diameter on the seat 
and tapping it lightly Avith a hammer. To limit the move- 
ment of the balls, a brass pin is sweated in the side of the 



Steam Plant for Small Model Airplanes 193 

valve housing whicli projects into the water passage at 
a point slightly above the balls. 

The fuel container is made in a strealn line form 
using brass foil .007 of an inch in thickness. There are 
two compartments, one of which contains 2 ounces of 
gasolene, the other 4 ounces of water. Allowance is made 
in the gasolene reservoir for a small air space, so that a 
slight air pressure might be generated by means of a 
hand pump in order to start the torch. 

The vaporizing coils around the nose of the burner 
are of light gauge brass tubing. Thin steel tubing is 
used for the Bunsen tube. A priming tray was beaten 



Gi'^-of f bra :^ ga ID cvroove. 



^xWu'*^ porh&. 




Fig. 129 — The engine hub 



out of brass foil and supported from the burner by a stiff 
wire, which was brazed at points indicated in the sketch. 

The speed of the engine is largely dependent upon the 
intensity and amount of heat. To start the plant, the 
water container is completely filled through the opening 
at the top. The gasolene container is then filled half full 
and then given one or two strokes of a hand pump through 
the check valve which projects from the front of the 
container. 

The needle valve at the burner is then opened long 
(Plough to allow the gasolene to drip from the spray noz- 
zle and thence to the priming tray. Half a teaspoonful 
is sufficient to heat the burner. When this is almost com- 
pletely burned out, the needle valve may be opened and 



194 



Model Engineering 



the burner will start off with a terrific roar. It is then 
necessary to start the water into the coils before they 
become overheated. By turning the propeller over sev- 
eral times, the pump is set in operation and the water is 



Cnunk pin, 




PE5I6N. 




Fig. 130 — The rotary valve design for the three-cylinder engine 



forced into the hot coils. Considering that the coils work 
at a red hot temperature, the value of the steam pressure 
often runs up to between 200 and 300 pounds per square 
inch. 

When the plant is on test, a perforated asbestos casing 
is placed around the coils and the burner opened wide 
so as to allow the flame to extend the entire length of 



Steam Plant for Small Model Airplanes 195 



I ' 

, ( 




Steam Plant for Small Model Airplanes 197 

the coils. After tlie first flash of steam reaches the en- 
gine, it is time to keep clear of the propeller, as it will 
speed np very rapidly. It would probably be disastrous 
to the engine to allow it to run light on the flash boiler 
at full pressure, when 60 pounds per square inch will spin 
it up to 3,500 R.P.M. 

It is very necessary that the engine be lubricated con- 
tinuously, otherwise the high temperature of the steam 
would soon cause it to run dry and seize. This is accom- 
plished by a gravity oiler in the steam line shown in 
Fig. 126, between the engine and boiler. There are two 
pipe connections to the reservoir, one of which serves 
to equalize the pressure on the oil and the other as the 
feeder outlet. A small pointed screw is fitted in the out- 
let in order to regulate the rate at which the oil drops 
into the steam line. This adjustment is made through the 
filling hole at the top of the reservoir. 



CHAPTER XVI 

A MODEL. STEAM TUEBIIN'E 

Description of the design used — Machining the parts — Forming die for 

turbine buckets. 

In designing and constrncting a model turbine engine, 
the model engineer is confronted with several problems 
which do not have to be taken into consideration when 
dealing with a reciprocating engine. The most important 
of these are: The high speed; the balancing of motive 
parts, adequate bearing and a positive oil supply. In 
the design here given, these details have been carefully 
worked out, yet the construction is such that it will not 
be found difficult of accomplishment by any amateur pos- 
sessing a small lathe fitted with a plain slide rest. 

In the turbine engine the principle that *^ Action and 
reaction are equal" is most practically demonstrated. 
The most efficient turbine engine is the one having a com- 
paratively large number of buckets, but to secure this in 
a model the size of the one here shown, it would be neces- 
sary to turn out the motor wheel with a solid rim, like 
the fl^^vheel of an engine, and mill out the buckets from 
the solid metal using an end milling cutter for the pur- 
pose. This construction would necessitate the use of 
special facilities with which few amateurs are equipped. 

Drawings A and B, Fig. 134, show the complete model. 
From these views it will be seen that the steam inlet is 
cast as a boss on the side of the casing instead of being a 
separate piece, for which a hole would need to be drilled 
diagonally through the casing. The exhaust steam passes 
out at the bottom of the casing, which facilitates the keep- 
ing of the interior free from water. The reduction of 

198 



A Model Steam Turbine 



199 



speed is accomplished by a worm Avheel mounted on the 
turbine shaft and engaging with a gear on the driving 
shaft. This permits of a reduction of 20 to 1, yet allows 
an increase of speed if so desired, by substituting a 
smaller gear on the driving shaft. The side thrust of the 



r 




Fig. 133 — The complete steam turbine, showing its comparative size 



jet of steam on the turbine wheel is offset by the thrust 
of the worm wheel on the gear of the driving shaft. 

The shaft of the turbine Avheel is made as long as 
possible, and the outer end supported in an outboard 
bearing. Each bearing is fitted with an oil ring and res- 
ervoir. Where the shaft passes through the casing, a 
stuffing box and gland is introduced. As the pressure at 
this point is only that of the exhaust steam, a piece of 
felt or candle wicking will be sufficient packing to use. 

The construction of the turbine Avheel will be consid- 
ered first. This piece of the model requires to be very 



«0|cO 




A Model Stearn Turbine 



201 



carefully constructed, and when completed, the wheel 
should be in perfect balance. The design requires forty 
vanes or buckets arranged around the circumference of 
the wheel. Fig. 140 shows in detail the construction of the 
wheel. This wheel is made with a solid web between the 
hub and rim, instead of being spoked ; the reason for this 
being that the entire surface of the wheel may be turned 
up true to make it run in perfect balance. The i/4-inch 
shaft of the model is too small to use in truing up the 
rough casting of the turbine Avheel; it is therefore advis- 




Fig. 135 — The turbine, showing the exhaust port 



al)le to drill and ream the hub of the casting % of an 
inch and use an arbor of that size while machining it. 

After the wheel is trued up all over and the rim 
formed to fit the buckets, a bushing, % inch outside di- 
ameter and A\ith a %-inch hole through it, can be made 
to fit into the hub of the wheel. 

This bushing must be carefully made or the wheel 
will not run true on the shaft. The bushing is shown in 
Fig. 140. The shape of the bucket is also shown in Fig. 
140. The lower portion of the bucket is spherical with a 
projection which fits into a slot of the wheel. The form- 
ing of these buckets will be the greatest difficulty that 
the amateur will encounter in the construction of the 
models. 



202 Model Engineering 

To make the tool for forming the buckets, take two 
pieces of steel % inch x 1% inches and about 2 inches in 
length. Clamp the two pieces together and drill two i^- 
inch holes for guide pins near one end, as shown in Fig. 
141. The opposite ends must be squared up and a center 
punch mark made on one of the pieces %4 inch from the 
edge where the two pieces join. Drill a small hole to a 
depth of % inch, using a drill about No. 24 size. With 
the two pieces firmly clamped together, drill into the same 
hole with a %-inch drill to the same depth and follow 
this up with a ball end cutting mill as shown. This can 
be made from a piece of i^-inch steel and the end rounded 
to a spherical form. The teeth can be filed in and the 
tool then hardened and tempered. When using this tool, 
it will be necessary to remove it from the work often and 
clear the teeth of the particles of material cut away from 
the work. If this is not done, the grooves will fill up and 
the cutter refuse to work. When the depression is cut to 
the proper depth, a piece of i/^-inch steel is turned to the 
same form as the end of the cutter and inserted in one 
of the pieces of steel, as shown iii Fig. 141. This can be 
fastened in position by a rivet. This forms a punch and 
die for forming up the buckets. The material of which 
the buckets are made should be soft brass of about No. 
26 gauge. This should be cut into pieces considerably 
larger than the size of the buckets, say one inch square. 
Place the forming tools with the ^^die'' below and lay 
one of the pieces of soft brass in position on it. Place 
the ^* punch" above it on the guide pins, and, holding the 
three pieces together, transfer them to a larger vise and 
squeeze together firmly. On relieving the pressure, the 
sheet of brass will be found in the form sho^\m in Fig. 
141, and only requires to have the flat part trimmed away 
to make it into a bucket of the proper shape for this 
model. 

After the required number have beeen formed up, one 



A Model Steam Turbine 203 

of them should be very carefully laid out and cut to the 
size and shape sIio^ati in Fig. 140, and this can be used 
as a gauge with which to mark out the others. The cross 
section of the turbine wheel shows the rim turned out to 
form the same shape as the bottom of the bucket. This 
can be somewhat modiiied as sho^\m where the bucket 
rests on two projections, one on either side of the rim 
and the center cut away on a straight line. The latter is 



% 




Fig. 136 — The turbine, showing the steam inlet 

the easier construction and keeps the buckets in position 
equally well. 

After the wheel is turned to the required shape, the 
slots for the buckets must be made in the rim. If one has 
a milling machine or a lathe arranged for plain milling, 
the work is very easy. Most amateurs will be under the 
necessity of marking off the divisions with dividers and 
cutting the slots with a hack saw. The divisions should 
be marked off very carefully and the saw held at right 
angles to the rim of the wheel when used. After the slots 
are c-ut in the wheel and the buckets formed and trimmed, 
they must be soldered in position. Place the wheel flat 
on a level surface and set the buckets in place. If the 
slots have been cut Avith a hack saw, the thickness of the 
metal of the bucket will not fill it up. In that case, small 
pieces of sheet brass can be cut and set in at the front of 



204 Model Engineering 

the bucket. "When the buckets are all in place, wrap a 
piece of iron wire aronnd the outer ends to hold them 
securely while being soldered. In soldering, a flame can 
be used direct on the wheel, or it can be done with a tin- 
smiths ' copper. Do not use a large quantity of solder. 
All that is required is to lock the buckets while their tops 
are being turned off to nearty the diameter of the inside 
of the flat brass ring Avhich is to surround them. 

Before the buckets are turned off, the Avheel should be 
placed in a permanent position on the shaft. The ends 
of the shaft should not be turned down to the size of the 
bearings, however, until the wheel and buckets are en- 
tirely finished. The flat ring surrounding the buckets is 
made from a piece of 3-inch brass tubing about M.6 inch 
in thickness. This should be placed on a block of wood 
which is held in the jaws of the lathe chuck, or fastened 
to the face plate, and trued up to a Avidth of %6 inch. 

In turning down the tops of the buckets, use a sharp 
pointed tool and take very light cuts. Turn them down 
until the flat ring can almost be forced on, then la^^ the 
wheel down on a flat surface, heat the ring evenly all 
around, and it will expand sufficiently to drop over the 
tops of the buckets. If this is carefully done, no solder- 
ing of the buckets to the ring will be necessary. The 
shaft and wheel are again mounted in the lathe and the 
wheel carefully turned all over, using a very pointed tool 
and taking very light cuts. This should put the wheel in 
perfect balance. Lastly, turn the ends of the shaft to 
the dimensions shown. When the shaft and wheel are 
complete and supported lightly between centers, they 
should stand in any position in which they are placed. 
Should the wheel revolve, it would indicate that one side 
of the wheel is heavier than the opposite side. In this 
case, it will be necessary to balance it by drilling a few 
small holes in the rim of the heavier side. 

The casing of the turbine consists of a piece of 3%- 



A Model Steam Turbine 205 

inch brass tubing about Me ii^ch thick, shown in Fig. 134. 
Into each end of this tubing a head is fitted. The tubing 
should be forced on a wood mandrel turned to tightly fit 
its inside diameter. Both ends should be trued up paral- 
lel, leaving the length of the tubing Wie inch. To the 
lower side of this tube is attached the base. The upper 
part of the base is turned out, or carefully filed, to fit the 
outer curve of the tubing. A boss is cast on one end of 
the base, and is drilled out to fit the exhaust pipe. "Where 
the drill comes through, an elongated hole will be formed 
on the top curve of the base. A corresponding hole 
should be marked out and cut through the side of the 
tubing, and after the four holes in the feet are drilled, 
the two pieces are soldered together. 

The two heads for the casing cannot be made from 
the same pattern without a considerable waste of ma- 
terial and extra work. For the head on the ^^ steam'' 
side of the turbine J, the pattern should be made with 
a straight hub for a chuck piece. This is for the pur- 
pose of holding the casting firmly in the chuck while it 
is turned to fit the tubing ; the inside surface turned off ; 
the oil reservoir finished, and the 14-inch hole for the 
bearing bored through. All these operations must be 
done at one setting; i.e., the castings must not be dis- 
turbed in the chuck until all these operations are finished. 
This is absolutely necessary in order that the parts shall 
all *'line up'' when the work is completed. 

The 14-inch hole for the bearing should not be made 
l3y starting a 14-incli drill and cutting the hole while the 
work revolves, for the hole Avould in all probability run 
crooked. Start with a smaller drill, say %6 inch, and 
wlien that has been put through, use a small boring tool 
in the slide rest of the lathe and true up the hole, taking 
repeated cuts until it is almost to the required size, then 
run a i/^-inch reamer through to finish it. The outside 
diameter of the head should be left a trifle lar2:er than 



206 



Model Engineering 



the 3i/4-mch tubing, as it will add to the appearance of 
the finished model. 

When cutting out the oil reservoirs, turn out tlie 
groove for the brass washer shown in Fig. 140. This 
washer is to be soldered in place, but this must not be 
done until the oiling ring for the bearing, L, Fig. 139, 
has been placed in the aperture and the screw holes of 
the heads drilled as will be explained later. After finish- 
ing the inside of the head, it can be reversed in the chuck 
and held by the inside surface of the flange while the 





rig. 137 — The turbine taken apart, showing the construction of the rotor 



extra part of the chuck piece is cut away and the end 
squared up. Two holes are to be drilled into the oil 
reservoir, one above, for the purpose of supplying oil, 
and the one below to be used to drain the reservoir. 
They should be drilled with a No. 42 twist drill and 
tapped with a No. 4-36 tap. Machine screws can be used 
to stop these holes when the model is in operation. 

The bearing sleeve is clearly shown at L, and a cross 
section of the same is seen at J. For this purpose, a 
piece of brass rod can be used. Two pieces are to be 
made, one for each bearing. In addition to the length 



A Model Steam Turbine 207 

required for the bearing, the pieces should be cut off of 
sufficient length to hold in the chuck. AYhen the extra 
length is gripped in the chuck jaw, center the end of 
the revolving piece with a sharp pointed tool and start 
a smaller drill than the size of hole required, after 
which the hole is trued up with a very small boring tool 
held in the slide rest and finished wdth a reamer. Next 
turn down the outside to 14 ii^ch and square up the shoul- 
der of the outer end. The bearing is held in place by the 
two small adjusting screws as shown in J and L. The 
groove for the oil ring can be cut with a file or hack saw, 
and the reamer must again be inserted to remove the 
burr. The oil ring can be made from a piece of tubing. 

The next important operation on this head is to drill 
and ream the steam nozzle in the lug cast on the outer 
surface. The line of the center of this nozzle should be 
at an angle of twenty degrees with the inner surface of 
the head as shown at M and N. M is a horizontal sec- 
tion cut through the center of the lug. This shows the 
manner in which the hole is drilled. The position of the 
hole is laid out on the inside of the head as shown at J. 
It should be on a direct vertical line with, and ^%6 inch 
above the center of the head. Mark the point with a 
center punch. When this has been done, a small piece of 
metal, shown at N, should be soldered on just outside. 
This is to prevent the drill from running off to one side 
when it is started. A center punch mark should be made 
on the outer end of the lug at the proper point to bring 
the finished hole at the proper angle with the turbine 
Avheel. Against the center punch mark the point of the 
])ack center of the lathe is placed and the hole drilled. 
When drilling the hole, the head must be carefully held 
up or its weight will break the drill. Use a No. 60 twist 
drill. The hole is next reamed out carefully with a taper 
reamer from the inside of the head. The hole should be 
Vir, inch in diameter at that portion where it emerges 



208 Model Engineering 

into the easing. The outer end can be counterbored from 
the outside to fit the steam pipe, and the entrance to the 
nozzle from the pipe beveled off as shown. 

The other head requires less work. All the turning 
can be done at one setting of the casting in the chuck. 
The projection of the stuffing box on the inside of the 
head is to be used as a chuck piece. This is firmly grasped 
in the jaws of the chuck. The outer diameter of the head 
is first turned down to the same size as the opposite head. 
The inside flange is next turned down to the same di- 
ameter as the inside of the 3%-inch tubing. This can be 
done by using a bent tool in the tool post of the slide 
rest. It can be gauged for size by using a pair of calipers 
and setting them to fit the finishing diameter of the flange 
of the other head. The gauging of the piece of work by 
the calipers must be done while it stands at rest, for if 
done when the work is revolving, the tendency will be to 
leave the flange too large, as the calipers pass over a re- 
volving piece of work with greater ease than if sta- 
tionary. 

The outside surface of the head is next turned oif true 
and the recess for the gland bored out to the proper 
size. The small hole for the shaft should next be put 
through and this should be done very carefully, as this 
will aid materially in the final lining up of the parts 
when the model is assembled, as will be described later. 
The hole should first be drilled with a smaller drill than 
the finished size called for, after which a small boring 
tool is used to true up the hole and fit it to the exact 
diameter of the shaft of the turbine wheel. The reason 
for doing this is that when the outboard bearing of the 
shaft is completed and ready to attach to the casing, 
the wheel and shaft can be inserted, and this hole in the 
stuffing box will hold the shaft in alignment until the 
bearing can be set into place and the position of the holes 
for the screws marked on the head. When the outboard 



A Model Steam Turbine 209 

bearing has been fitted, the hole in the stuffing box should 
be enlarged a little so that the shaft will not touch it. 

The packing gland is shown at Q and will not require 
an extended explanation. It should be a sliding fit in 
the stuffing box and the hole should be at least Vz2 inch 
larger than the diameter of the shaft. Two clearance 
holes for No. 2-56 screws should be drilled in the flange 
and tapped holes to correspond marked off and drilled 




Fig. 138— The castings for the model steam turbine. The pressed buckets 

are also shown 



in the head. No finishing is required on the inside of 
this head. 

The two heads can now be marked off and drilled for 
the screws which are to hold the casing together. Lay 
off six points around the edge of the flange of the head 
first described J, and mark them with a center punch. 
Drill these holes through, using a No. 42 twist drill. 
AVhen all six holes are drilled, place the flanges of the 
two heads together and hold them in position with a 
clamp. The projection of the stuffing box on one head 
will enter the oil reservoirs turned in the other head. With 
the heads securely held together, use one of the holes as a 
guide for the drill and start a hole in the other head. 
This must not go deeper than the bevel of the lip of the 
drill. Mark the other five holes in the head in the same 
manner, after which the two heads can be separated. 



A Model Steam Turbine 211 

The holes marked should be drilled through with a No. 
32 twist drill, this being a clearance hole for a No. 4 
screw. The holes drilled with the No. 42 drill are next 
tapped with a No. 4-36 tap. 

After these holes are drilled, the washer can be 
soldered in place to form the oil reservoir in the head J. 
The casing can then be assembled with the wheel and 
shaft in place. 

The outboard bearing should be held in the jaws of 
the chuck bj^ the outer end of the hub so that the feet 
project toward the slide rest. Rotate the lathe head by 
hand and measure with a tool in the slide rest to see that 
the piece is chucked so that the feet project equally, ^¥ith 
a centering tool in the slide rest, mark a center in the 
revolving hub of the casting, and, using the same size 
drill as used for the hole at J, put a hole entirely through 
to size it from one of the bearings shown at L. 

The oil reservoir is next bored out and the little de- 
pression made for the washer. The washer, like the 
corresponding one in the other bearing, must not be 
soldered into place until the oil ring has been placed in- 
side. The bottom of the feet must be faced off while the 
casting is in the chuck, light cuts with a pointed tool be- 
ing made so as not to loosen the work. The piece can 
then be removed from the chuck and the bearing sleeve 
fitted. The holes for two adjusting screws are next 
drilled and tapped, after which the clearance holes for 
the screws are placed in the feet. The bearing can now 
be slipped onto the end of the shaft projecting from the 
assembled casings and the position of the screw holes 
transferred to the casing. 

The head must now be removed and the holes drilled 
and tapped. The hole in the back of the stuffing box can 
be enlarged, as mentioned, and the head replaced. The 
Avorm wheel should next be placed on the shaft in the 



212 



Model Engineering 




A Model Steam Turbine 



213 



position shown in Fig. 140 and secured by a very small 
set screw drilled and tapped into one end of the worm. 

The bearing for the driving shaft is best finished by 
centering at both ends and drilling the hole when the 
casting is held against the back center of the lathe. The 
drill used should be a trifle smaller than i/4 inch. Be 
careful that the drill does not touch the end of the back 
center. AVhen the hole is nearly through, a piece of hard 
wood or metal should be interposed to prevent injury to 
the drill or center. The hole can then be reamed with a 




Fig. 141 — Forming device for the brass buckets used on the rotor of the 

steam turbine 



1/4-inch reamer, after which it can be placed on a 14-inch 
mandrel and the ends squared up. If desired, the out- 
side of the bearing can be turned down and finished on 
either end. If finish is desired over that portion where 
the flange is attached it will be necessary to do this with 
a file, as it cannot be turned. The back of the flange 
would be filed up flat and parallel to the hole for the 
shaft, after which two screw holes are drilled. 

The gear wheel and shaft are fastened together by 
a pin or screw and placed in position in the bearing. 
These parts are then held in place on the casing until 
the positions of the screw holes are located. The points 



214 Model Engineering 

of the teeth of the gear should not be allowed to ^^ bot- 
tom" on the worm, yet they should have sufficient contact. 

If desired, a small sheet metal oil pan can be formed 
to fit under the gear wheel for lubrication and a cover 
could be made to enclose all the gearing, but there are 
so many who prefer to ^^see the wheels go 'round'- that 
these parts have not been shoAvn. No driving wheel is 
shown on the end of the driving shaft. This must be 
made of the proper size to give the required speed to 
whatever model or piece of apparatus it is required to 
drive. 

When the final adjustment of the parts is made, the 
turbine wheel should run just as close as possible to the 
head containing the nozzle, but without touching it. Per- 
haps the easier way to make this adjustment is to loosen 
the screws in the bearing sleeve of the '^ steam'' side and 
screw up the adjusting screws in the outboard bearing 
until the turbine wheel rubs against the side of the 
casing when the shaft is revolved by hand. Then turn 
these screws back a half revolution and carefully tighten 
up the screws on the ^* steam" side until the bearing 
sleeve comes against the shoulder of the shaft. Be care- 
ful that the sleeves are not forced up too tight, as it is 
preferable to have a little play endwise on the shaft, 
though this should not exceed %4 inch. A stop cock 
should be placed on the steam pipe as near the model 
as convenient. 



CHAPTER XVII 

DESIGl^ AND CONSTKUCTION OF MODEL BOILERS 

Efficiency of model boilers — Evaporative power — Convection currents — 
Boiler design — Pot boilers — Water-tube boilers — Marine boilers — 
Kiveting model boilers — Super-heaters. 

Small boilers to drive model steam engines may be 
made according to several different designs. Some of 
these are more efficient than others from the standpoint 
of evaporative power and some are more adaptable than 
others for a specific purpose. As an example, a vertical 
pot boiler Avonld not be as successful for use in a model 




n Tt n Hi n Hi n Ti 

M t ! t M ! t M t t t t ! t 



\\r ^tr ^tr ^\r 

V c/^i ic>/~F- rsF i-iF/o-r ^ 



source: Of HErRT 



Fig- 142A-— Showing the path of convection currents in a pot boil«r 



speed boat as a flash boiler would be and yet, many times, 
the flash boiler could not be employed as conveniently 
as the pot boiler in certain work. The model maker 
should therefore choose the type of l)oiler that is most 
adaptable to the work for which he wishes to use it. The 
following paragraphs will describe a few of the more 
common types of boilers together with information that 
will aid greatly in designing and constructing them. 
First, a few words in regard to the efficiency of boilers 

215 



216 



Model Engineering 



in general. Boiler efficiency depends upon the evap- 
orative power and this, in turn, depends upon several 
things, such as the heating surface, the source of heat 
and the design of the boiler. The evaporative power of 
any boiler, whether model or large, is measured by the 
number of cubic inches of water that it changes into 
steam during a period of one minute, and from this, cal- 
culations may be made as to the power of the boiler and 




Fig. 142B — Showing the path of convection currents in a water-tuhe boiler 



the size of the engine it is capable of driving. Model pot 
boilers (about 7 inches long by 3 inches in diameter) 
cannot evaporate more than % to % of a cubic inch of 
water per minute. This figures out about 1 cubic inch 
of water per every 60 square inches of heating surface. 
This efficiency is considered very low when compared 
Avith a tube boiler fired with a blow lamp. Such a boiler 
will consume or evaporate as much as 1 square inch of 
water per 30 square inches of heating surface. The low 
efficiency of an ordinary boiler is due to the fact that it 
has a comparatively small heating surface in ratio to its 
size. Water tube boilers are much more efficient. 

When water is heated in a vessel, violent currents 
are set up within the water and such currents are called 
'* convection currents." These currents tend to move 
from the surface to which the heat is applied. Their 
movement in a pot boiler is shown in Fig. 142A. 



Design and Construction of Model Boilers 217 

The motion and rapidity of these convection currents 
is a large factor when the efficiency of a boiler is con- 
sidered. The faster these currents move, the better the 
circulation of the water will be, and this is to be desired. 
The boiler shown in Fig. 142B is the type known as 
the water-tube boiler and has a greater efficiency than 
the ordinary pot boiler because convection currents are 
set up in its tubes as shown and these currents permit a 
maximum transmission of heat from the fire or flame to 




CCNTPt FLUE. 



—-SOLID DGflWN 
COPPEE^" 
65 LBS. PREISSURE. 



DOOR. 

FIRE BARS 
CaST IRON &flSE 

Fig. 143 — A single-flue boiler made of drawn copper tube 

the water. For this reason, boilers embodying this prin- 
ciple have a much greater efficiency and evaporate power 
than those of ordinary design. 

A boiler known as the single-flue type is shown in 
Fig; 143. This resembles a pot boiler and, in fact, its 
efficiency is not much greater. The construction of this 
boiler, however, if followed carefully, Avill give the model 
maker much valuable knowledge in practical boiler con- 
struction, as it embodies all the good features of a well- 
made boiler from the standpoint of design. 



218 



Model Engineering 



The boiler proper may be made of either brass, cop- 
per or steel. Of the three metals, copper is by far the 
most suitable for model boiler construction. In boilers 
of small size and for low pressures, the seams and joints 
may be silver soldered, but in the larger types it is neces- 
sary to rivet the parts together. When rivets are em- 
ployed, they should have a diameter of at least 1% times 
the thickness of the boiler plate, no matter what metal 
is used in its construction. This procedure will give the 
proper factor of safety. The rivets should not be placed 



TO ENGJNt 




Fig. 144 — A simple water-tube marine boiler 



any farther apart than four times their diameter. When 
boiler joints are silver soldered, they are generally 
riveted first to hold the seam in place until the solder is 
applied. For small boilers, silver soldering is to be 
recommended, as it gives a steam-tight seam and will 
also withstand considerable pressure without rupture. 
In many cases, when a very small boiler is to be made, 
the model maker can employ a solid drawn copper tube, 
which may be obtained on the open market. Such tubes 
are very strong and will stand up under great pressure. 
Brass and steel tubes of this nature can also be used. 

When metal tubing is used for the boiler, considera- 
ble care will have to be exercised in putting in the end 



Design and Construction of Model Boilers 219 

pieces of the boiler, as these are more apt to succumb to 
the steam pressure than the tubing itself. There are 
several methods of putting the end pieces in. In boilers 
with low steam pressure, a metal disc can be cut which 
will fit into the end of the tube with a driving fit and, 
after it is in place, it can be silver soldered. In no case 
can ordinary solder be employed, as when this substance 



V/qLVt 



TO engine: 



— »^^ TO CtSG 




SHEIEIT IRON 
U\NE.D WITH 
ASBESTOS 




Fig. 145 — A water-tube boiler equipped with a super-heater coil 



is heated appreciably its tensile strength is reduced 
greatly and it is therefore unable to withstand any great 
pressure. If the ends of the boilers are put in place in 
this manner, it is very good practice to fix a brass rod 
concentrically in the boiler, leaving the ends projecting 
and providing them with a nut which will bear part of the 
pressure Avhich is exerted on the end pieces. In many 
cases, the seams and joints of the boiler may be welded 
or brazed, but as this necessitates the use of an elaborate 
equipment the average model maker is not able to fol- 
low this practice. A flanged end plate riveted to the 
l)oiler is much more effective than the ordinary disc and 
this procedure is advisable when boilers of a larger type 
are constructed. A good substitute for a flanged end 
plate is shown in Fig. 150. The ring or strip is riveted 
to the boiler tube and the end plate rests against this. 

Xow that the general procedure in boiler construction 
has been outlined, a brief description of several suitable 



oo 



20 



Model Ejic/inccriiicy 



typos of model steam engines will be ^iven. The one 
sliOAvn in ^ig. 155 is ot the marine type and in aetual 
practice is fonnd to steam very ^vell althongh its evap- 
orating poAver is not as great as that ot a hash boiler. 
The boiler shown is of the semi-tlash type and being that 
it sets very low it is especially adapted to model steamers 
as it would help keep the center of gravity low. and this 



TO engine: 



CHECK V^LVE 




TORCH FLaML 



Fig. 146 — A water-tube boiler with a cast waterback 



adds to the stability of any craft. It will be noticed that 
the fire box is in the shape of a tube which runs throtigli 
the boiler. Etmning through the lire box, at right angles 
to each other, are six Avater tubes upon which the tlame 
of the blow torch impinges. Water circulates through 
these boiler coils continuously when lieat is applied to 
them. The lire tube should be made of steel as this metal 
is less affected by heat, whereas copper and brass oxide 
much more rapidly. The Avater tubes are placed in the 
large steel tube by means of silver solder. To make a 
more substantial job, the Avater titbes should be cut a little 
long and Avlien they are put in place the ends may be 
flanged as slioAAm in the detail draAving of the boiler. 
One end of the steel f re box is proAuded Avith a funnel 
Avhicli is riA'eted in place. A small hood also extends out 
OA'er the back of the boiler, Avhicli protects the flame from 



Ueffign and Construction of Model Boilers 221 

external air current.s. The boilf^r .should be j>rovided with 
a safety valve and pressure gauge. A water glass should 
also be fitted to the back and the valve jjlaced on the tojj 
to check the steam flow to the engine. 

Fig. 146 shows a ver\' suitable type, although it 
presents more difficulties in actual construction than the 
one previously described. It is necessary to have a cast- 
ing made for the waterback ring, which is provided with 
a flange to which the boiler tube is riveted. The water- 
back ring is jjrovided with six holes drilled as sho\\Ti in 
the drawing. The water tubes are threaded and screwed 
into these holes and run from this point to the bottom 




^-v- 



-TO ELNGINEI -'-5UPE:C-HE>=iTE.5? P.'PEl- 

Fig. 147 — A marine boiler provided with a super-heater loop 



of the boiler. The method of fastening them in the bot- 
tom of the boiler is shown very clearly in the figure. A 
hole the size of the tube is first drilled in the bottom of 
the boiler and then a steel rod the same size as the tube 
is inserted in this hole and the rod is then bent to the 
same position that the water tubes will be in. After the 
holes are treated in this manner, the water tubes are 
inserted in them and they are silver soldered into place. 
This particular part of the construction is very simple, 
as the builder will not have to bend the water tubes into 
any particular shape. The boiler proper can be made of 
solid drawn copper tubing with an internal diameter of 
about 2 inches. The copper boiler tubes should have a 



222 



Model Engineering 



thickness of about % inch and this will give a very high 
factor of safety. The back plate of the waterback ring 
can be cut from steel and it should have a thickness of 
at least %6 inch to prevent it from bulging when the 
steam pressure reaches its maximum value. The back 



RIVET 




Fig. 148 — A waterback for a water-tube boiler, showing how the boiler 
tube is riveted in place 



plate is screwed to the waterback casting. The whole 
boiler is enclosed in a casing bent into shape from Rus- 
sian iron and a small funnel is riveted to the top of the 
casing to carry away the fumes and gases that are gen- 
erated by the torch or fire. The inside of this casing of 
Russian iron should be heat insulated by means of sheet 
asbestos, which is fixed to its inner surface. 

The feed pipe for the engine is attached to the free 
end of the boiler and this pipe should be provided with 



Design and Construction of Model Boilers 223 

a valve. A water glass and a steam pressure gauge 
should be affixed to the back plate of the boiler. The cir- 
culation of water in this particular type of boiler is very 
good and for the ordinary model steamer, where great 
speed is not sought, this boiler is recommended. 

The boiler shoAxm in Fig. 145 is a conventional type 
and differs from the others described in that it is pro- 




Fig. 149 — Another drawing of the waterhack shown in Fig. 148 



vided with a super-heater coil. The boiler proper can 
be constructed in the ordinary manner and it is provided 
with five water tubes bent and inserted as shown in the 
drawing of the device. Being that these water tubes are 
the same shape it is well to make a small wooden form 
to bend them on so that they will all be uniform. It is 
also advisable to put these tubes in place in the bottom 
of the boiler before the end pieces are soldered in and 



224 



Model Engineering 



after the super-heater coil has been wound and soldered 
into position in the bottom of the boiler. It will then be 
possible to silver solder the joint where the tubes pass 
through the boiler on both the inside and outside, insur- 
ing a good, steam-tight joint. The tubes are arranged 
as sho^\Ti4n the rear view of the boiler. The tubes can 
be of copper or steel and they should be about %6 inch 
in diameter for use with a boiler of the dimensions show^n. 



ciMP edge: ovEie 




KING 
EIVET 
E.NO PIEICL 



TZ 


w 


^ 


t 


if - y 


j_ 


m 


1 



Fig. 150 — A very practical method of fastening boiler end plates in place 



The fire box of the boiler is made of Russian iron lined 
with sheet asbestos and provided with a funnel at the 
forward end. 

A modification of this particular type of boiler is 
shoA\m in Fig. 144. The Avater tubes in this are arranged 
in the same manner as those on the boiler sho\\Ti in 
Fig. 145. This boiler, however, is not provided with a 
super-heater coil and is therefore not as efficient as the 
one previously mentioned. The entire boiler is enclosed 
in a casing made from Russian iron and lined with sheet 
asbestos to keep it insulated. The casing of this boiler 
is not square, but of the shape shown. A boiler casing- 
made according to this outline mil not have as much 
metal in it as one made square and, therefore, some 
saving in weight is effected. 



Design and Construction of Model Boilers 225 

The boiler slioAvn in Fig. 147 is very similar to that 
illustrated in Fig. 155, Avith the exception that it is pro- 
vided with a small super-heater loop which runs from 
the dome on the top through the water tubes in the fire 
box and leaves the front of the casing to the engine. The 



Fig. 151 — Casting of a waterback 

tubes in this boiler are arranged just a little different 
than those in the boiler shown in Fig. 155. Three tubes 
are arranged vertically while the remaining five are ar- 
ranged at 45 degrees and cross each other at right angles. 
With this exception, the other features of this boiler can 
be constructed like that shown in Fig. 155. 

The boiler in Fig. 153 is a modified Scott type, which 
is a sort of combination flash and tube boiler. The coils 
or, rather, the loops of tubing beneath the drum, make 
the boiler a very quick steamer and, while its water is 
exhausted rather ciuickly, a pump added to it makes the 
outfit a presentable one. As it stands, the boiler holds 
sufficient water for a satisfying run in a race or demon- 
stration. The reader will understand that this descrip- 



226 



Model Engineering 



tion is supposed to pertain to the construction of tlie 
boiler, rather than to be a eulogy of its fine points. 

The drum is a length of brass tubing 214 inches in 
diameter and 8% inches long. The holes for the under 
loops or tubes are best drilled by packing the brass tube 
with a wooden mandrel which will assist in center punch- 
ing and drilling after the position of each hole has been 
marked. 

The loops are of standard copper automobile tubing 
of the 14-inch size. This material is so delightfully soft 




Fig. 152 — A complete marine boiler of the tsrpe shown in Fig. 147 



and easy to work that no particular trouble will be experi- 
enced in bending it to the required loop-shape. The 
reader will notice that the loops are in the form of horse- 
shoe magnets with one leg shorter than the other. The 
loops are placed with the long and short arms alternated 
to provide for a natural thermo-syphon circulation of the 
hot water through the cold. 

To bend the loops, a jig or form should be constructed 
of hard wood by sawing out the profile with a jig saw. 
This will insure uniformity, which is at least desirable if 
not actually essential. The loops are preferably silver 



228 Model Engineering 

soldered into the boiler drum. This is essential if a gaso- 
lene torch is to supply the heat. 

The boiler heads are of copper discs with the edges 
spun over to a tight fit on the drum. They are then 
secured with a long stud running the entire length of 
the boiler. Finally the joint is made doubly secure against 




Fig. 154 — The bottom of the Scott boiler shown in Fig. 153 

rupture and leakage by careful silver soldering. Care 
should be taken to make sure that the joint is actually 
*^ sweated/' i.e., that the solder flows right through the 
joint to the inside of the boiler. The proper heat, a good 
flux, and a clean piece of work will certify to this con- 
dition. 

From one head of the boiler is taken, the safety valve 
and super-heater pipe. This super-heater is necessary, 
as the steam from this boiler is necessarily wet and unfit 
for use unless some means may be found to dry it. The 
pipe solves the problem as it conducts the steam through 
the hottest part of the fire before passing it to the engine. 

Flash steam boilers are entirely different from any of 
those previously described in that no actual boiler is 
employed, as a coil of small pipe through which the water 
is circulated and heated replaces the more conventional 
boiler form. The average flash boiler consists of a coil 



Design and Construction of Model Boilers 229 



of either steel or copper tubing from 2 to 3 inches in diam- 
eter containing from 8 to 30 feet of tubing. The amount 
of tubing in a flash boiler depends entirely upon the power 
that it is required to deliver. With a small engine with 
a %-iiicli bore, 10 feet of -JiG-inch tubing Avould be suffi- 
cient to drive it at maximum power. It is calculated that 
30 feet of tubing the same diameter and furnished with 
enough heat is sufficient to generate approximately 1 H.P. 
AYorking on the figures given above, the model maker 
should be able to construct and design a flash boiler for 
any small engine, either single or double cylinder. An- 
other factor to be considered, however, is the type of 



5nFE.TV V^LVE. 




A— J SElCTlON A-A 

Fig. 155 — A marine boiler with fittings 



engine, whether it is single or double acting, as this has 
much to do with the steam consumption. 

The boiler coils for a flash steam plant should be 
made of steel, as this does not oxidize as rapidly as cop- 
per tubing and will therefore last much longer, although 
there is no serious objection to the use of copper other 
than this disadvantage. The steel tubing may be wound 
on a wooden form with a diameter of the inside dimen- 
sions that the tube is to be. The wooden form is held in 
the vise and the tube is bent around it. Before this is 
done, however, the tube should be put through a process 
of annealing so that it will not crack or break while bein^: 



230 Model Engineering 

wound. The tube may also be wound over a mandrel on 
the lathe, the lathe being turned with one hand slowly 
and the tubing guided on the mandrel with the other. 
One end of the boiler coil should be provided with a check 
valve and the other end is provided with a coupling, by 
means of which it is connected to the water supply pipe. 



CHAPTER XVIII 



MODEL BOTLEPv FITTIXGS 



Design and construction of safety valves, cheek valves, water cocks, 
water gauges and steam gauges. 

The efficiency of a model boiler depends somewhat 
upon its fittings, such as safety valves, stop valves, check 
valves, et cetera. A poorly constructed, leaky valve or 
boiler fitting of any kind is just as bad as a leak in the 
boiler and will cause a serious reduction in the working- 
pressure. Therefore, it is quite necessary that a valve 
or fitting of any kind be made very accurately to insure 
maximum efficiency. 

Probably the most important fitting on a model boiler 
is the safety valve. There are many types of valves, 
each with its advantages and its disadvantages. In some 
cases, one type of valve is more adaptable for a certain 
boiler than another. A properly designed and regulated 
valve will blow off when the critical pressure is reached 
in the boiler; below this pressure it should not leak or 
^'weep'' in the least. After the valve functions, it should 
return to its normal i^osition immediately the press- 
ure has fallen beyond the danger-point. Such a valve is 
not very easy to construct, although the model maker, at 
first thought, may think that it does not present any diffi- 
culties whatsoever. In designing safety valves the model 
maker must bear in mind the fact that the interior surface 
of the valve phig determines the pressure at wlT|Lch it 
will bio wotf — the larger the surface, the lower the press- 
ure needed, and vice versa. 

A very simple type of valve is shown in Fig. 156, at A. 
Although this is not strongly recommended for use on 

231 



232 



Model Engineeriiig 







Adjusting..'^ 
Nut I 



,Fork 





L/C 

6 




Ball- 



Seating 




6princf---;.4SJ^^^_,.' Spindle 




W 



End View 
of Weight 



Proporfion Plug fo hole =2 'A fo I 




"On" 



.G 



Off 



Screwed 
Shank, 



Nose 




Square-hole 

■ Washer 



Waierway 



Fig. 156— Model boiler fittings 



Model Boiler Fittings 233 

a large boiler, it ^vill be found suitable on the smaller 
models working at very low pressure. The working press- 
ure of the valve is regulated by means of the spring 
shown. This is done by moving the nut either up or 
down ; down if the pressure is to be reduced and up if the 
pressure is to be increased. The spring should not be 
made of steel, as this will corrode and rust by the action 
of the steam, and it will be found that brass spring wire 
will be the only suitable metal for this purpose. The 
body of the valve should screw tightly into the boiler 
to prevent leakage, and great care should be taken in 
making the seating accurate. The main objection to a 
valve of this type is the large area of contact in the seat- 
ing. The larger the area of contact, the more difficult it 
will be to make the seating accurate and steam-tight. The 
least speck of dirt or projection on the metallic surface 
will cause the valve to leak badly. 

A much better valve seating is shown at G. This is 
generally known as the ^ Hmif e-edge " seating and makes 
a mpre leak-proof valve than that described in the fore- 
going paragraph. The contacting surface is very much 
smaller and therefore the possibility of the valve becom- 
ing fouled with dirt is much more remote. Another valve 
on this principle is sho^\m at D. This is known as the 
^'ball-valve" and is very efficient for model boilers. The 
seat is made extremely sharp. The ball is of bronze and 
may be purchased on the open market. It is attached to 
a spindle, to the opposite end of which is fixed the usual 
form of spring. To make this seating as accurate as 
possible, a steel ball the same size as the bronze ball is 
placed over the valve orifice and given a sharp blow with 
a hannner. This slightly concaves the surface of the 
valve seat and makes a much better fit possible, thereby 
increasing the efficiency of the valve. The body of the 
valve may be turned from brass stock. 

.Valves employing springs are not suitable for model 



234 Model Engineering 

boilers of the larger type, as tliey are not dependable 
enough. Then there is the disadvantage of having the 
adjusting spring Avithin the boiler. Larger boilers, for 
this reason, are generally provided with a weight valve. 
Snch a valve, together with its various parts, is shown 
at E. The ^'blowing off' ^ point of this particular valve 
can be easily regulated by either moving the weight on 
the lever closer or farther away from the fulcrum. As 
the weight is moved aAvay, the pressure necessary to 
^*blow'' the valve will be greater, and vice versa. Such 
valves cannot be used on model boat boilers unless some 
method is employed to keep the weight in the position 
that it is set in. By carefully considering the drawing, 
the reader will find no trouble in setting about to make 
such a valve, as it involves no complications, but the 
workmanship must be good. Safety valves, as a whole, 
are cranky things to fuss Avith, and they cannot be made 
too accurately. They must be absolutely steam-tight and 
at the same time they must not stick. 

A very good marine safety valve of the spring type is 
shown at F, in Fig. 157. This valve, unlike many others 
of the spring type, possesses the advantage of being 
adjustable from the outside by means of the nipple 
shoA\m. A discharge pipe for the exhausted steam is 
attached to the side of the valve casing and leads up the 
side of the ship's funnel if the valve is used on a marine 
boiler. This exhaust pipe should be plenty large enough 
to effect a free and easy discharge of the steam. The 
proportion shown in the drawing is about right. So 
much for safety valves. 

There are innumerable designs for model steam and 
water cocks, and it frequently behooves the model engi- 
neer just what type is most suitable for the problem in 
hand. The two sketches shown at Gr, in Fig. 156, illus- 
trate the ^^on" and ^^off" position of a simple one-way 
valve. There is one thing that the model engineer should 



Sp:nd!e-^ 



-Adjusting 
Nipple 



Flange 




Joints 



Hand Wheel 
Xjland Nut 

Packing Space 
.'Union Nut 

Tail Piece 




Square 
Body-> 



Delivery: 
Pipe 



Boiler 




I- Way 




4-way 



Screw Plug, 




Square 
Body 




Hand 
Wheel- 



Packing 
GlandNuf 



Supply 




—Packing 
Space 

■Clearing Hole 

Screwed Portion 



Delivery 




Wafer 
"Gauge 

--Glass 



Boiler 
Shown Tflfed 



Fig. 157— Model boiler fittings 



236 Model Engineering 

always remember in comiection with the making of cocks ; 
the moving member should always be of a different metal 
than the body. Thus if the body of the cock is made of 
gnnmetal the ping shonld be made of brass or bronze. 
Bronze and good brass rod also Avork very well together. 
Another point demanding the consideration of the worker 
is that the hole in the ping shonld not be ont of propor- 
tion to the ping itself. The proportion shoA\m at G is 
abont right and if this is departed from it wonld be better 
to make the opening or hole in the plug smaller rather 
than larger. 

A simple, straight-nosed plug cock is shown at H. 
The body of the cock should be made first and then the 
plug can be accuratel^^ fitted in so that it will provide 
sufficient lap to effect complete stoppage of the Avater, 
gas, steam or whatever may be passing through it. The 
method employed in producing the tapered hole may not 
present itself to the reader at first thought, and a few 
words will be said in regard to it. The hole is first drilled 
with an ordinary drill of the proper size and then it is 
reamed out with a small tapered reamer made especially 
for the work. The conical reamer for such a job can be 
cut from a piece of steel rod and hardened. The end of 
the rod that has the taper is filed half round to provide, 
a cutting edge. Several such reamers can be made up 
for cocks of different sizes. The plug is then turned to 
shape and properly drilled in a small improvised jig with 
a drill the same size as that used to produce the hole in 
the body of the cock. The bottom of the plug is filled 
square for a short distance and below this it is threaded 
to receive a small nut, which holds a square-hole washer 
in place on the square portion of the plug above the nut. 
The purpose of the square-hole washer is to prevent the 
nut from tightening when the plug is rotated. Three-way 
and four- way valves are often employed in model engi- 
neering, and such types are shown at I, Fig. 157. These 



Model Boiler Fittings 237 

valves involve practically the same problems as those 
met with in constructing the simple one-way cock. 

A very simple one-Avay cock of an entirely different 
type than that previously described is sho^^^l at J, Fig. 
157. This is much easier to construct, as Avill be readily 
seen by a glance at the drawing. The body may be made 
of gunmetal and the screw-plug can be turned from brass. 
If the threads are cut accurately on this plug, it is much 
less liable to leak than plugs made by the other method. 
The workman will understand that the plug is turned 
from a piece of rod and threaded, after which the handle 
is bent over. It may be necessary to emplo^^ a small bend- 
ing jig to do this. Valves of this type are especially rec- 
ommended for high-pressure boilers. 

In some cases, valves of the type described above are 
not suitable for use, and the more conventional ^ ^ globe '^ 
or ' ' screw-down ' ' valve must be employed. Such a valve 
is shoii^Ti at K, Fig. 157. Owing to the small diameter of 
the passages it Avill be impossible to core them out during 
the casting of the body and it will therefore be necessary 
to drill them. An especially made tool will have to be 
used in making the valve seat. The '^needle" is filed 
square at the outer end to receive a small hand wheel 
\\ith a knurled edge. A valve very similar to this but 
^Aith the passages differently arranged is sho^^^l at L. 
This is easier to make, as the holes are not so difficult to 
drill. 

A check valve is a valve that ^^ill freely permit water 
to pass in one direction, but entirely prevents its passage 
iu'the opposite direction, the latter claim being made with 
the assumption that the valve is designed and constructed 
properly. A check valve of the ball type is shown at M. 
The body can be cast and drilled out. A special tool will 
also have to be used here to form the valve seating. The 
valve proper is a small brass ball of the correct size. The 
normal position of this ball is shown, but when water 



238 Model Engineering 

enters from the feed-pipe the ball is forced np against the 
surface of the small cap screwed in the top of the valve 
body. If, however, water attempts to pass in the oppo- 
site direction due to back pressure, the ball immediately 
returns to its seating and thereby closes the passage. The 
course to pursue in constructing this valve is so obvious 
that a detailed description of the procedure is considered 
unnecessary. 

There is probably no other model boiler fitting that 
offers more problems to the model engineer than the 
water glass or gauge. On very small water glasses, great 
trouble is experienced due to capillary action of the water 
in the glass tube, as this sometimes entirely overcomes 
the gravitational force that would otherwise keep the 
water at the proper level — that which corresponds with 
the level of the water inside the boiler. The operation 
of a water gauge is shown at N, in Fig. 157. A simple 
water gauge is illustrated at 0, in Fig. 158, and the prin- 
cipal part of this is a glass tube of small bore bent as 
shown. The bending of the glass tube can be done in a 
hot flame, and if the builder is not sufficiently acquainted 
Avith the bending of glass he may call upon some of his 
chemical friends. Unless done by an experienced person, 
the glass is very apt to kink at the corners. This water 
gauge is not suitable for very large boilers. The one 
sho^^^l at P is a much better design and does not present 
any more difficulties in construction. The packing gland 
should be put in place very carefully to prevent leakage, 
as this is very apt to occur if the steam pressure is high. 
Unless the parts are very accurately made, and the holes 
in both the upper and lower portion are in perfect align- 
ment, the glass tube is apt to be broken when it is put in 
place. The joints of this device are silver soldered, as 
noted in the sketch. A very elaborate water gauge ap- 
pears at Q. This is especially suitable for boilers of the 
larger type. It is provided with one-way cocks at each 



3Ioclcl Boiler Fittings 239 

end, as well as cleaning pings, which are characteristic of 
the larger devices. The cocks are provided to check the 
water slionld the glass become broken throngh accident. 
The cock at the bottom is nsed to clear the glass of mnd 
or dirt if the water level becomes obscnre throngh this 
canse. It is very advisable to fit water ganges with small 
guards not onl}^ to prevent the glass from being broken 
on the outside, bnt to offer some protection to the oper- 
ator should the steam pressure become so high that the 
glass is unable to hold it. This is not a remote possi- 
bility, and OAving to the very fragile nature of glass, the 
pieces would fly in every direction. 

A very simple form of hand force pump for feeding a 
boiler is illustrated at E, in Fig. 158. A valuable feature 
of this pump is the means provided to limit its stroke. 
AVhen used in connection with a steam pressure of over 
50 pounds the bore of this pump should not be over % 
inch, as otherwise it will be most difficult to operate by 
hand owing to the steam pressure that will have to be 
overcome. The delivery valve is provided with a %6-inch 
projection across the top to obviate the possibility of its 
blocking up the passage to the union when it rises. A 
small recess is filed at the bottom of the pump to admit 
the water. 

A more powerful hand pump for use with higher 
steam pressures is shown at S. This force pump also has 
a greater pumping capacity than the one previously de- 
scribed. The plunger of this pimip is very long and is 
provided with several packing glands and double cup 
leathers. By altering the length of the operating lever, 
this x)ump can be used on quite high pressures, as the 
hjnger the handle is the greater the leverage and thereby 
the greater force the operator is able to overcome. 

A simple form of pressure gauge for model boilers 
appears at U. This operates on the ^^ Bourdon'' prin- 
ciple, i.e., a steam pressure inside a bent tube tends to 




^'■Boiler 



Tube 

Secfion\\^ ' '^^^^ ^°-^ 



Unfon--^ 



u 



.Delivery Pipe 



\Leaihers /P^^f<'"^ 

I 







7Z2ZZZZZZZZZZZ 



ZZZZZZZ27ZZZZZ 



'Grooves 



/////.////^//y//////////////////////////^zzz2 




Fig. 158 — Model boiler fittings 



Model Boiler Fittings 241 

straighten tlie tube out. Advantage is talven of this by 
arranging the elements of the pressure gauge as shown. 
The higher the steam pressure is in the tube, the more 
its tendency will be to straighten out. This causes the 
pointer w^hich is connected with the tube to move across 
a dial which is properly calibrated to indicate the steam 
pressure in pounds per square inch. The writer has heard 
of instances Avhere an ordinary automobile tire gauge 
was employed successfully to indicate steam pressure on 
a model boiler. 



CHAPTER XIX 

A KECORD-BREAKING MODEL HYDROPLAIirE 

The hull of the boat — Its flash boiler and twin-cylinder, high-speed 

steam engine. 

The model described in this chapter* is the result of 
considerable experimentation, both in the making of vari- 
ous types of hnlls and power plant equipment. The craft 
was really made to bring the model speed boat record 
from England to America, and in tests '^Elmara'' has 




Fig. 159 — **Elmara" at a thirty-mile clip 



shown a speed slightly in excess of 30 miles per hour. 
The English record held by the ^^Evil Spirit'' is 26.7 
miles per hour. 

The dimensions of the hull are as follows: Length 
39.37 inches, beam 7% inches, step 1V4 inches high, sides 
forward of the step 4^/4 inches high, sides directly back 
of the step, 3 inches high. The distance from the bow 

242 



A Record-Breaking Model Hydroplane 243 

to the step is J7i/4 inches. The weight of the complete hull 
is 2 pounds lYz ounces. 

Only two materials are used in the construction of 
the hull — alumii'ium and mahogany. Mahogany is a very 
strong wood, will take a smooth finish and is more or less 




Fig. 160 — Showing the power plant of "Elmara" 

unaffected by moisture. The pattern of the sides of the 
boat are first cut out of paper and this paper is pasted 
on a piece of dressed mahogany % inch thick. The ma- 
hogany is then cut into shape. The bow piece is cut out 
of solid mahogany and shaped as shown in Fig. 164. 




Fig. 161 — The bottom of the boat 



Square mahogany strips are then cut out and fastened 
to the inside of the side piece by means of shellac and 
%-inch brass brads. The bottom of the craft is made 
of Xo. 22 gauge sheet aluminum and this is fastened to 
the square mahogany strips, as the sides of the boat are 



244 Model Engineering 

only % inch thick and it would be next to impossible to 
fasten the aliiminnm to these without splitting them. The 
aluminum is also fastened by means of shellac and %-inch 
brass brads. The shellac tends to make the boat water- 
tight, while the brads hold the aluminum rigidly in place. 
The aluminum bottom does not run completely over the 
bow piece, but merely overlaps it sufficiently to be fas- 
tened to it by means of the brass brads. The single step 
in the bottom of the boat is formed by a mahogany strip 
through which the propeller shaft tube runs and the 
water scoop. The back of the boat is also made up of 




Fig. 162— The boiler coil and boiler casing of the power plant 

mahogany. A small aluminum hood is bent into shape 
and this is fixed to the bow of the boat and prevents 
water from reaching the engine and also reduces air re- 
sistance. 

The builder is cautioned to use extreme care in making 
this hull, as every detail must be paid attention to in the 
construction of model racing boats, and a hull put to- 
gether carelessly cannot be expected to attain great speed. 
Attention must be paid to the most minute details, such 
as perfect balance, wind resistance, water resistance, etc. 
The wooden portion of the hull should be rubbed down 
well and thoroughly shellacked, applying the shellac with 
a camel 's-hair brush so that it mil leave the surface bright 



o 

z 

to 

V 

U 



j^ E55- 



o 

(0 



o 
u 

uJ 
-J 

O 




Ph 



246 Model Engineering 

and smooth. The hull of ^'Elmara" is so designed that 
it will plane at a speed of fifteen miles per honr. 

While some experimenting has been done with pro- 
pellers for use on this boat, the best results have been 
obtained with a cast aluminum propeller of 3%6-inch 
diameter and a pitch of 10.2. When the craft is at full 
speed, the propeller turns over at 4,000 E.P.M. The pro- 



HOOD 




BOTTOM 
Fig. 164 — How the bow piece is held in place 

peller shaft or stern tube is made of %-inch brass tubing 
with brass bushings soldered in at each end. These bush- 
ings are drilled for a %6-iiich silvered steel shaft. The 
skeg is made up from flat and round brass stock and 
screwed to the skeg bearer. 

The rudder can be made either of brass or' aluminum 
and is fixed in place so that the boat will run in a straight 
course. It will be found necessary to bend the rudder 
slightly to one side, as the boat has a noticeable tendency 
to turn in the same direction that the propeller is re- 
volving. 

The flash steam boiler of '^Elmara" consists of 18 
feet of %6-inch O.D. seamless steel tubing of 22 gauge. 
This is wound in a single spiral on a 1%-inch mandrel. 
To avoid trouble it is advisable to thoroughly anneal the 
steel tubing before it is wound. The casing, which covers 
the boiler coil, is bent into shape from 22-gauge Russian 



A Record -Breaking Model Hijdro plane 247 

iron. The ends are all lap-seamed and the funnel is 
flanged at the bottom and riveted to the boiler casing. 
In making the casing, a clearance of at least % inch 
should be left all around the boiler coil. AYhen completed, 
the casing is lined with sheet asbestos having a thickness 
of % inch. The boiler is mounted on a small frame made 
of square mahogany strips. 

A little trouble will be had in making the boat keep 
a straight course when in operation and the experience 
of the builder has shown that if the propeller is mounted 
just a little off center in the opposite direction to which 
the propeller turns this will have a tendency to make the 

i 

sou^ee: wood I -^— side: 

STRIP ^«^| 



I 



SHEIEIT <qLUMINUM 
BOTTOM 

Fig. 165 — Showing how the aluminum "bottom is held to 
the sides of the hull 

boat follow a straight course. The amount of offset 
necessary Avill have to be proven by experiment, and it 
will be found that very little is necessary. 

If the builder desires, the bow piece can be made con- 
siderably lighter by boring a large hole through it with 
an auger. In fastening the bottom to this piece, the wood 
should be cut away so that the surface of the aluminum 
will be flush with the surface of the bow piece. Otherwise 
the edge of the aluminum will have a tendency to prevent 
the boat from planing, owing to the resistance it would 
give to the water. 

The water scoop consists of a small semicircular 
piece of copper tubing Avith an internal diameter of % 
inch and ari'anged in the wooden portion of the step. 



248 



Model Engineefing 



The water scoop is connected to a small water tank, which 
will be described later. 

Unless the builder is anxious to keep the weight of the 
hull down as low as possible, it is advisable to cover the 
sides next to the boiler with asbestos or light sheet alumi- 
num to prevent it from catching fire from the heat of the 
blow torch. It is ver}' inconvenient to have this happen 



P0W6R WATHR 




Tig. 166 — The twin-cylinder engine used on the boat 



when the craft is in the center of the lake and no row- 
boat is handy. 

The power plant of the boat is especially interesting 
from the standpoint of model steam engineering. It pos- 
sesses several unique and original features of construc- 
tion and operation, although a glance at the photograph 
may convince the reader that it is nothing extraordinary. 

The main castings of the engine are of aluminum. 
Only two castings are used in the engine itself — the upper 
or cylinder portion and the crankcase. The cylinders of 



A Rccord-Breaking Model Hydroplane 249 

the engine, which have a bore of ^Kc inch, are cut from 
Shelby steel tubing*. The cylinders are reamed out and 
lapiDed before they are inserted in the casting, as shown 
in the cross-section drawing of the engine. Fig. 171. The 
main casting is, of course, carefully bored or drilled out 




t 

Fig. 167 — The oil and water tank for the engine and boiler 

SO that a good dri^dng fit is made. The lower portion 
of the steel tubing is turned to a slight taper and this 
holds the cylinder rigidly in place. The casting is so 
made that after the cylinders are in place there will be 
a recess around them, and this is made to act as an 
exhaust chamber, as will be explained later in connection 
with the valve action. The cylinders are provided with 
20 auxiliary exhaust ports which are drilled with a 
ViG-inch drill and spaced equadistant. At the extreme 
limit of the down-stroke,- the cylinders uncover these 
auxiliary exhaust ports and this places them in commu- 
nication with the exhaust chamber, permitting about 60 
per cent of the steam left in the cylinders to leave. The 
drawing shows the one cylinder in the exhaust position 
Avith the auxiliary ports completely uncovered. If the 
cylinders project any at the top of the casting after they 



250 Model Engineering 

are driven in place, they should be ground off perfectly 
flush with the top of the engine, as the cover plate, which 
is described later, must lay absolutely flat to prevent a 
possible leakage. A small recess %6-inch deep is filed" 
in the side of each cylinder at the top and the cylinders 
are so mounted in the casting that these recesses will' 
be exactly opposite each other so that they will form a 
communication with the steam chest, as will be explained 
more fully in connection with the valve mechanism. 

The crankshaft is turned from a solid piece of cold 
roll steel. The connecting rods are also turned into shape 
from cold roll steel. A split brass bearing is used on the 
crankshaft end of the connecting rods and these are held 
together by means of two small machine screws, one on 
each side. The lower portion of the brass bearing is 
counter-bored to receive the round head of the machine 
screws used. The screws extend through both halves of 
the bearing into the end of the connecting rod which is 
drilled and tapped to receive them. While this method 
may hold the bearing in place, the original engine has 
small pins driven through the upper half of the bearing 
into the lower end of the connecting rod. The pistons 
are turned to size from cold roll steel and bored out. 
This gives a solid piston which is absolutely necessary 
with an engine of this nature working on high-pressure 
flash steam. A previous power plant of ^'Elmara" had 
an engine with the tops of the pistons silver soldered into 
place. One day the engine refused to go and investiga- 
tion showed that one of the piston tops had come off, the 
extreme heat of the flash steam having melted it or come 
so close to melting it that its tensile strength fell below 
the critical point. It is best to make a solid piston in the 
first place as flash steam is unsatisfactory with silver> 
solder. The pistons are provided with piston rings, and 
these are an absolute necessity with the high pressure 
employed. Each piston has two piston rings. A hole 



A Record-Breaking Model Hydroplane 251 

is drilled completely tlirougli the top of the pistons to 
acconiinodate the wrist pin, which is a small piece of cold 
roll steel rod of the proper size. The ends of the wrist 
pin are filed to conform "svith the internal outline of the 
cylinder and finished off smoothly so that they will not 
scratch the cylinder Avails. 

The small brass bevel gear which drives the valve 
shaft is drilled and pinned to the crankshaft. Very little 
strain in actual operation makes it unnecessary to key 



HANP WATgR PUMP 



'STEAM CHEST 




Fig. 168 — The engine, showing the hand water pump and the oil pump 



this member to the crankshaft. A small universal joint 
is placed on the crankshaft just back of the bevel gear 
and this is also pinned into place with as heav^^ a pin as 
the quarter-inch shaft will allow. Owing to the fact that 
this universal joint forms the connection with the pro- 
peller shaft, it has to hold up under considerable force, 
as nearly a horse-power of energy is transmitted to the 
propeller when the boat is at high speed. This method of 
fixing the universal joint to the crankshaft is open to crit- 
icism, but in the case of the ^^Elmara" the trouble experi- 



252 Model Engineering 

enced with it has been exceedingly small in comparison 
with the trouble had from other sources. The universal 
joint used is made by the Boston Gear Works and is the 
smallest stock joint made by these people. 

A very special method was employed to hold the 
flywheel on the crankshaft. The spur gear on the end of 
the shaft which meshes with the larger pump gear is 
soldered to a sleeve and the fly^vheel is drilled out and 
reamed so that this sleeve will pass into the hole in the 
flywheel with a driving fit. The sleeve is then drilled out 
and reamed so that it will fit on the crankshaft with a 



' B^ 


^^ POMf HANPUtj 


' Pomp 6EAft H|S| 


m \/ 




^^^^K. 1 




JMl 




^^^^ 



Fig. 169 — End view of the engine 

driving fit. These members are then mounted upon the 
shaft and a hole drilled through the hub of the flywheel, 
the sleeve and the crankshaft. A small s.teel pin is then 
driven in this hole, which holds the flywheel in place, as 
well as the spur gear. 

The valve will now be explained, together with the 
steam chest. The steam chest is formed by a small box 
cut out from solid steel and provided with a cover plate 
of steel which projects over the sides. The overlapping 
portion of the plate is drilled so that it may be fastened 
to the top of the engine by means of the long machine 



A Rccord-Breaking Model Hydroplane 253 



*0 




254 Model Engineering 

screws, as clearly shown in the drawing of the engine. 
The amount of the projection should not be made too 
great, otherwise the cover plate will have a tendency to 
buckle up in the center when the machine screws are 
tightened. A hole is drilled in each end of the stream 
chest, one for the valve spindle and the other for the 
packing gland. The valve spindle guide is turned from 
brass. All the remaining parts of the steam chest and 
valve are made from steel. The valve is extremely sim- 
ple and consists merely of a small block of steel with a 
recess chiseled in the center as shoAvn. The adjusting 
nut on the valve spindle rests between two shoulders on 
the valve so that the stroke of the valve or, rather, its 
oscillating motion, can be regulated. After the threads 
on the valve spindle are cut, it will be necessary to turn 
those on the end of the spindle off that fits into the spin- 
dle guide. The valve spindle extends through the packing 
gland and has attached to its outer end a small slot cut 
from steel. The eccentric or valve crank consists merely 
of a small steel disc mounted on the upper end of the 
valve shaft with a small machine screw placed between 
its periphery and center. This screw passes through a 
tiny steel block, which fits in the slot on the valve spindle. 
The small steel disc has a collar by means of Avhich it is 
pinned to the valve shaft. This collar rests on a small 
projection on the end of the engine casting which forms 
a bearing for the valve shaft. A similar projection forms 
the lower bearing. These bearings are not bushed, as 
this has been found unnecessary. At the lower end of the 
valve shaft, another small brass bevel gear is fixed with a 
steel pin, and this meshes with a similar brass gear that 
was placed on the crankshaft previously. 

Three slots are cut in the top plate of the engine, one 
large one with two smaller ones on each side. The small 
ones are the inlet ports from the steam chest, and the 
larger one is the exhaust port. The two small slots form 



A Record-Breaking Model Hydroplane 255 







256 



Model Engineering 




A Record-Breaking Model Hydroplane 257 

a passage to the cylinders by means of the two recesses 
iiled in the top of the, cylinders, as- explained in a previ- 
ous paragraph. These slots come directly over the re- 
cesses, as shown in the cross section drawing of the en- 
gine, Fig. 171. Between the pistons, and directly under 
the larger exhaust port, a i/4-inch hole is drilled. The 
exhaust slot communicates with this hole and the engines 



s ^ 




VA 


f^ 


y/t 


1 


. ^ 






1 1 


/\/\ 


f"""^- 




/ 


v\ 


/ \A 



■Discharge 



3// Hexogon HHH 
''Z-;;^^'— Light Brass 



^, 



/ \ 




Fig. 173 — The crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and water pump 
of the engine 



exhaust steam therefore comes out at both sides. Be- 
tween the c^dinders and on each side of the engine cast- 
ing, two 14-inch holes are drilled from beneath up through 
the casting until they meet the horizontal hole that was 
previously drilled between the cylinders. This enables 
the exhaust steam from the auxiliary ports to pass into 
the regular exhaust of the engine. After these two holes 
are drilled, the lower ends are stopped with a brass plug. 



258 ' Model Engineering 

Another small hole is drilled in the side of the engine 
casting, which commnnicates with the exhaust chamber 
and this acts as a drip for the steam that condenses into 
water. By nsing this method, lagging on the cylinders 
has been fonnd unnecessary and the efficiency of the 
engine is not impaired in the least. 

An anxiliary structure of sheet metal holds the pumps 
and pumping mechanism to the engine. Two water pumps 
are provided, one being the hand operated pump to start 
the engine with and the other the power operated pump 
driving off the main shaft through a train of two gears. 
The small spur gear fastened to the shaft in front of the 
flyl^^heel drives the larger gear to which the connecting 
rod of the water pump is attached. The side arrangement 
for altering the stroke of the pimip is arranged for. An 
arm is attached to the gear, being pivoted to one end 
with a screw having a slot in the opposite end through 
which the machine screAv is passed. In the center of the 
arm, the connecting rod of the pump is attached. By 
using a set screw on the arm and bringing it either closer 
or farther away from the center of the gear wheel adjusts 
the stroke of the pump within quite a wide range. The 
hand Avater pump is actuated by a large steel lever or 
handle. 

The larger gear wheel which drives the water pump, 
is fixed on the end of the shaft, which has one of its 
bearings at the opposite end of the engine. Mounted 
directly behind the larger gear wheel on the steel shaft 
is a worm gear which meshes with a small spur gear 
used to drive the pump. The connecting rod of the pump 
is attached to the edge of this spur gear, the ratio being 
100 : 1. A small pipe leads through the oil pump directly 
into the steam chest of the engine, where the oil mixes 
itself with the hot steam and is carried into the cylinders 
of the engine. The gears of the power water pump have 
a ratio of 5 : 1. The bore of the water pump is % inch. 



A Rccord-Breaking Model Hydroplane 259 

The stroke of the Avater pump is variable from % to %g 
inch and the bore is i^ inch. The oil pump also has a 
bore of i/4 i^^^li ^^^ ^ stroke of % inch to l^ inch. 

The complete engine is mounted on an aluminum plate 
with a thickness of % inch and this is anchored on cross 
pieces or bearers in the boat hull. Four machine screws, 
one on each corner of the base, is used to hold it. 

In the design and construction of this engine, the 
builder is more or less indebted to Mr. H. H. Groves and 
Mr. Westmoreland, of England, who are pioneers in the 
use of flash steam and Avhose instructive articles have 
appeared in past issues of the Model Engineer, 



CHAPTER XX 



A MODEL LAKE FREIGHTER 



Building the boat hull — The power plant and construction of the deck 

fittings. 

The model described in this article is that of a bulk 
freighter of canal size snch as nsed in the transportation 
of grain and ore on the Great Lakes, particularly between 
Fort William and Montreal. The overall length of the 
prototype is 260 feet and larger boats of this nature are 
made up to 650 feet in length. 

The hull of the model is 4 feet long overall and the 
length between the perpendiculars is 3 feet 9% inches. 
The beam at the water line is 8 inches and the draught 
extreme is 4^^ inches. The displacement at this draught 
is 401/4 pounds in fresh Avater. It will be necessary to 
use some ballast on the model in order to bring her down 
to the designed water line. 

In the following lines only a few general construc- 
tional hints will be given, as the drawings are complete in 
every detail and, with these as an aid, the constructor 
will not have much trouble in making the vessel. The 
table of offsets which is given herewith should be referred 
to constantly, and with this as a key to the complete plan 
shown in Fig. 174, the builder will be able to proceed 
intelligently. 

The hull can be very easily produced by the bread- 
and-butter principle. For those who are not familiar 
with this method of construction, a few words will be 
advisable. The hull is made up of ten planks and each 
plank is gouged out with a chisel. The plank which forms 
the bottom of the boat is not gouged, but is shaped with 

260 



A Model Lake Freighter 



261 




262 Model Engineering 

a draw-knife to conform with tlie outline shown in Fig. 
176. The next plank is gonged out and this is then glued 
to the bottom plank and so on until the entire hull is 
built up. After the shapes are drawn on the %-inch pine 
planks used, the planks are roughed up nearly to shape 
with a draw-knife and after they are all produced in this 
manner their surfaces are smeared with glue and put 
together with small brass brads. The brads are placed 
1 inch apart. The hull is then finished with a plane and 
sandpaper, being brought to a smooth surface before the 
paint is applied. 

The deck is made from a piece of i/4-inch pine board 
and the hatch openings are cut in this. It will be noticed 
that there are seven hatches. Six of these are provided 
for loading the hull and the seventh one, toward the 
stern of the boat, is much larger than the rest and is 
intended for making adjustments on the power plant. 
The deck is held to shape and in place on the hull by the 
deck beams which are mortised into the side of the hull. 
A rub-streak of i/4-inch square pine is tacked on each side 
just below the sheer. The sides of the hatches and covers 
can be made from cigar box wood and may be held in 
place by means of glue and small tacks. 

The deck house, chart house and wheel house, as well 
as the bridge, are made of tin, bent and soldered into 
shape. The bridge is equipped with spray cloths made of 
fine white linen. The port lights in the deck house and 
sides of the hull are made of brass and provided with 
pieces of mica glued in place to represent glass. 

The life boats carried on top of the engine casing ^re 
whittled out of a solid piece of wood and painted white 
and properly lettered and numbered. The life boats are 
held by means of string to brackets bent into shape from 
iron stove-pipe wire. 

The engine is of the two-cylinder marine type and 
has a 1-inch more and a 1-inch stroke and drives a 



A Model Lake Freighter 



263 




u 

PS 
<o 
O 

t> 

in 



264 



Model Engineering 



4-is^ propeller 3 inches in diameter, with a pitch of 2% 
inches. This is fastened to the propeller shaft by means 
of a lock nnt. The propeller will be a matter of experi- 
ment nntil the best resnlts are obtained. The propeller 
shaft is a i/4-inch steel rod and the stuffing box is turned 
from solid brass with a cavity for packing at the in- 
board end. 

The boiler is made from seamless copper tubing and 
is 4 inches in diameter by Si'o inches long. It is provided 





TABLE 


OF OFFSET3 








I 


STATIONS 


1 


A 


2 


B 


3 


4 


5 


6 


r 


a 


9 


C 


10 


D 


11 


\z 


X 

o 


RAIL 


3| 


Si 


9f 
















^i 


^i 


^f 


^i 


rf. 


7i 


RA15ED SHEER 


3 


8| 


8i 


3| 


























SHEER LINE 


6i 


a 


6hk 


6,1 


Si 


6 A 


&i: 


&4 


e,i 


^i 


^i 


e4 


e^ 


e«^ 


^i 


si 


W.L.I A. 


5| 






























5| 






























L.W. L. 


^f 






























^M 






























B.OF K. 


O 






























o 






























Bl ■ 




^1 


E 


1 


A 


A 










,i 


f 


2^ 


4j6 


5k 












B2 






^,i 


3,i 


1 


i 










1 


if 


4f 


5ii 


7 k 












X 
h- 
Q 

i 

-J 


RAIL 




ek 


3 
















4 


4 


3| 


3^ 


3 




RAI5ED5HELR 




i^ 


^l-i 


3| 


























5HEER LINE 




u^ 


2[i 


3i- 


3i 


4- 










4 


■4 


3M 


3i 


z'i 












W.L.I A 




If. 


2f 


3k 


3.^ 


4 










4 


3^ 


3i 


3 


2k 












L.WL. 





3i 


a 


3| 


3| 


4 










4 


3i 


^^ 


lir 















W.L E 




1 


2 


3 


^f 


4 










4 


3e^ 


U^ 


i 


O 












W L 3 




i 


it 


^t 


3^ 


4 










4 


3i 


Is 


^ 














W L 4 




1 


If 


^1 


H 


3| 










3F 


^1 


^ 


^ 














V\' L 5 


































5-TAT10N5 SPACED 


4iAPAFfr, 




WATER L1NE5 SPACED 1 i / 


\PAR- 


r. 


1 



Fig. 175 — The table of offsets which should be constantly referred to 
in building the boat 



with one fire tube which is 1 inch in diameter and four 
cross tubes % inch in diameter. All the tubes are silver 
soldered into place. The boiler is fired by a blow torch 
using gasolene under pressure. The boiler is equipped 
with a safety valve, filling plug, pressure gauge and water 
gauge. The funnel measures 1 inch wide by 1^2 inches 
long, and extends 4 inches above the engine casing. The 
exhaust steam from the engine is carried up the waste 
pipe aft of the funnel. The deck fittings forward con- 
sist of a steering boom, two bullards, two fairheads and 



A Model Lake Freighter 



265 



four life buoys for the bridge. On the main deck are six 
bullards and two cowl ventilators 1/2 inch in diameter. 
The fore mast is properly stayed and fitted with rat- 
lines. The main mast is properly fitted and stayed and 
the rigging consists of silk fishing line. The rudder of 




SECT 10/^ /fr ENC/N^ SECT/ON f^r BO/Lf^/f 

Fig. 176 — Sections of the boat at the boiler and the engine 



the boat is made of sheet brass and is fitted with a 
quadrant. 

The hull of the model is painted black above the 
water line and red below the water line. The deck and 
hatches are painted deep maroon and the chart house, 
wheel house and engine casing are painted black. The 
funnel is painted red with a black top. The ventilators 
are painted white on the outside and red on the inside. 



CHAPTER XXI 

A SHARPIE-TYPE MODEL BOAT 

Making the mahogany hull — Power plant — Construction of special 

alcohol burner. 

The majority of model boat builders lack the skill 
to get a block of wood, shape the outside and then get 
down to the real job of hollowing it ont with gouging 
tools to the desired thickness without breaking through. 
What is wanted for a model speed boat is a type of hull 
capable of being driven at considerable speed with the 




Fig. 177 — The model speed boat complete 

least possible water resistance and consequently with 
the least possible power. 

The ^ * Experiment ' ' has no curves except the sides. 
Floor and sheer lines are absolutely straight from bow 
to stern. A glance at the drawing will give one the im- 
pression that the boat is utterly unsuitable for speed, 
yet the boat has run at the rate of 6^/^ miles an hour with 
an ordinary boiler and engine. 

To begin with, make full-size drawings of the boat; 
its plan and cross section. Make two wooden molds, one 
for the cross section about one-third of the distance from 

266 



268 



Model Engineering 



bow, and another about, or, better still, a trifle behind 
center. The bow piece and stern piece should next be 
made of good clean pieces of oak, free from knots. After 





Fig. 179 — The boat with the deck removed. The hand water pump is 
shown at the right 



this preliminary work has been done, the bow piece molds 
and stern piece can be mounted and nailed on a board 
as shown in Fig. 180. 

The following is needed: About 12 feet of %6-inch 
mahogany 9 inches wide, some odd pieces of %-inch oak 
for knees and a piece of oak about 1% inches thick for 



A Sharpie-Type Model Boat 



269 



the bow. The sides are marked out and shaped from 
the drawing; both exactly alike. The bow piece is 
planed into a triangular section and rebated to take the 
fore end of the side planks. The stern piece is made 




Fig. 180 — How the hull of the boat is assembled 

of 1/4 inch oak and beveled to fit into the sides. In the 
actual building, the sides are secured to the bow piece 
by brass screws (No. 1, i/2-inch w^ood screws) and then 
sprung out and the molds fitted; the transom being 




Fig. 181 — The Scott semi-flash boiler used on the "Experiment'* 

fmally fixed in place. This is fastened by angle pieces of 
sheet aluminum bent to fit in the angle between the sides 
and the stern pieces. The angle pieces are first screwed 
to the side planks % inch forward of the aft edge of the 
sides, the stern piece being finally fitted into place and 



270 Model Engineering 

secured by screws through the side planks at the edge 
of the stern piece. The holes for all these screws should 
be drilled in order to avoid splitting the side planks with 
wood screws. 

Plane off the floor edge of the side planks perfectly 
level. The floor is next fitted. Lay the floor board into 
place and mark off all around the side planks. Then take 
it off and rough out the shape and nail it into place with 
brass brads. Drill all the holes for the brads to prevent 
splitting. Before doing this, paint the edge of the sides 
with thick paint. After the floor board is fastened firmly 

rqSBElSTOS WOOL-^ 3." „ 



Fig. 182 — The alcohol burner used to fire the boiler 

into place, plane off the edge, flush with the sides. The 
molds can now be removed and the knees, cross-braces 
and engine mounts fitted. The knees are fastened by 
first being glued into place and then two screws are put 
into each leg. The after-deck is a piece of %6-inch ma- 
hogany permanently fastened do\^Tl with brackets. The 
remaining jobs are making the turtle deck out of a thin 
sheet of aluminum and the fitting of the shaft skeg, which 
is a piece of 1-inch square oak drilled to take the pro- 
peller shaft stuffing box. This stuffing box is nothing 
more than a piece of %-inch diameter tubing plugged at 
each end for about % of an inch with brass and drilled 
the size of the propeller shaft that is going to be used. 
When the shaft is finally put in place, the tube should 
be filled with vaseline thinned out with a little oil. If 
the builder has been careful of the outside surfaces of 
the hull, he can make a natural wood finish highly polished 



A Sharpie-Type Model Boat 



271 



and with a polished brass cut-water put onto .the bow, a 
very pleasing model can be produced. 

The '^ Speedy" engine, described in Chapter IX, and 
the water tube boiler, which is described in Chapter 
XVII, Fig. 153, would make a splendid power plant for 
this boat. The boiler can be fired by an alcohol tray 
burner, with an automatic feed arrangement which pre- 
vents the burner from overflowing. 

In constructing the burner, the tray can be made 
about 6 inches long, 1 inch wide and 1 inch deep. At 



niE TUBEl- 




INTERMELDWTE- 
PASSAGE 

Fig. 183 — The fuel tank and automatic feed for the l)urner 



the bottom is a %6-inch brass tube with pin holes. This 
is covered with asbestos wool, as per Fig. 182. The 
alcohol tank, ^^'hich embodies the automatic feed device, 
is shown in Fig. 183 and can be built out of a cocoa can 
with a small chamber, C, soldered onto the side at the 
l)ottom Avith air tube A and intermediate passage I, as 
shown in tlie drawing. There should also be a filling 
plug, F, which should screw down airtight on a .leather 
Avasher. The successful working of this burner depends 
upon the alcohol tank being perfectly airtight. 

The plunger pump drawing shows this necessary 
attachment very clearly and needs no further explana- 
tion. The boiler feed pipe goes to the check valve on 
tlie boiler. 



272 



Model Engineering 



The propeller is built np, the blades being soldered 
onto a hub which is drilled and tapped for set screws. 
The pitch of the blades can only be determined by experi- 
ment when the boat is tried out. 

The rudder is' of thin sheet brass soldered to the 
rudder post of i/4-inch diameter brass rod. 



5 

VjqLVE BALL 
EETfllNElR 



PUMP FflSTElNEID TO 
BOflT CR055 BRfqCE 




PUMP CYLINDE 



'-P C^ 




TO BOILEK 




I^UBBEIE tube: 
WflTELR 



Fig. 184 — Details of the hand water pump 



As an afterthought, a hatch can be built in the turtle 
deck over the engine large enough to allow for oiling 
and adjusting the engine. 

The alcohol burner will function better if the asbestos 
wool is underlaid with absorbent cotton, as this material 
possesses a greater capillary attraction than the asbestos 
and the feed will therefore be more satisfactory. 



CHAPTER XXII 

A I^rODEL SUBMARINE CHASER 

Method of constructing the hull — Electric power plant and transmission — 

Deck fittings. 

This littio craft is 34 inches long, 51/2 inches beam, and 
it draws approximately an inch of water when loaded 
with driving mechanism and battery. The drive is by 
means of a single screw connected with a battery motor 




Fig. 185 — The submarine chaser complete 



placed well forward. The propeller shaft honsing is 
securely held in its proper relation to the hull by means 
of brackets formed by bending annealed brass strip to 
the proper shape and afterward filing it thin and smooth. 
One bracket, the inside one, is soldered to the shaft tube 
in order that a firm bearing may be secured at the point 

273 



274 



Model Engineering 




A Model Submarine Chaser 



275 



where the power is transmitted from motor to propeller 
shaft. The coupling is the simple type comprising a 
short length of coiled brass spring. The outside bracket 
must, obviously, be left unsoldered in order that the 
shaft tube may be inserted through the hull. 

The motor "was removed from its cast iron base and 
supported between angles of brass bar, as shown very 
clearly in Fig. 192. This method of mounting makes 
possible the alignment of the motor shaft with reason- 




rig. 187 — The stem of the submarine chaser 



able accuracy. The flexible coupling takes care of what- 
ever inaccuracy exists between the motor and propeller 
shafts. 

The rudder is of the balanced type and of very simple 
construction. The profile is traced upon a sheet of^brass 
and the blade cut roughly with snips and finished with 
grinder or file. The rudder post is a length of brass 
rod split with the hack saw sufficiently to take the rudder 
blade. A hole is drilled and an escutcheon pin inserted 
near the end. This pin is then headed over to draw up 
the halves of the split rod in order that the job may be 



276 Model Engineering 

neatly soldered. After this important operation lias been 
perforn^ed, the head of the rivet may be ground or filed 
off and the job smoothed np with emery cloth. 

The rudder post passes through a. tube of brass fitted 
with a suitable flange at the top to provide a nice finish. 
The tiller is a short length of smaller brass rod inserted 



^y^- " " "' ' ' ""'^ 




6' « f 




. .J 

Fig. 188 — A view of the cabin on the chaser 

as shown in the illustrations. No particular provision 
has been made in our model to hold the tiller in any 
desired position. This might readily have been done by 
forming a segment of a circle of brass sheeting with 
depressions at the desired points to engage the tiller. 

T^^o pieces of 1%-inch thick sugar pine form the body 
of the hull. They are worked out roughly to finished 
shape on the jig saw, formed up with the draAV-knife and 
finished with spoke-shave and sandpaper. 

The inside of the hull is hollowed out before the two 
pieces of pine are permanently cemented together. The 
lower piece is bored and gouged out. One of the photo- 



A Model Suhviarine Chaser 



277 



graphs sliows the method emplo^^ed to hold the stock to 
the bench ^vhile the gouge is being used. The bit of stock 
supporting the motor and the propeller shaft bearing is 
left in position, the gouge being Avorked around it. ^ 

The two pieces are then cemented together with a 
mixture of white lead, whiting, bath tub enamel and 
japan drier. The paste is smeared liberally on both faces 
to be joined ; they are then subjected to pressure by means 
of furniture clamps or any other convenient method. The 
cement will harden in three days. It is well to use a few 
very slender brads in joining the hull planks to assist 




Fig. 189 — The bow of the boat, showing the deck gun 



in making the structure rigid. If the walls are brought 
doA\m as thin as they should be, this task of placing brads 
will be a delicate one. The expedient employed was to 
drill down through the gunwale with a No. 55 drill to 
insure a straight path for each brad. 

The deck and forward superstructure, if such it may 
be called, are integral. A piece of 14-inch stock runs 
over the entire hull while the rise forward is formed 



278 



Model Engineering 



"by the addition of a piece of "^/^-iwoh stock to this thin 
decking forward. The deck and its companion piece are 
secured after being finished closely to shape in the vise. 
The snperstructnre should be hollowed out a bit if pos- 
sible to decrease the weight at this critical height. 

The gunwale is a length of %6-inch square stock run- 
circuit of the deck. The gunwale is painted 



ning the 




Fig. 190 — ^How the boards that compose the hoat are gouged out. 
complete hull is shown above 



The 



gray while the deck is stained and varnished after the 
*^ plank lines" have been laid in it. These lines are 
merely score marks made with a scriber to imitate the 
lines of the usual deck planks. 

The ^^ conning tower" is of wood, hollowed out to the 



A Model Submarine Chaser 



279 



thinnest possible degree and decked over with cigar box 
wood. The structure is made removable so that access 
may be had to the battery amidships. 

The port holes are finished with short pieces of brass 
pipe cut off in the lathe with a parting tool so ground 



3 C D E 




2/ 3 



1 ■ I . I , t , t , \jj 



Fig. 191 — Half sections of the submarine chaser hull 



as to produce the desired finish on the face of each port. 
A bit of celluloid placed in each hole in back of the brass 
collar gives the desired semblance of glass. The holes 
in the hull and conning tower are % inch in diameter to 
make a snug fit for the brass collars which are forced 
into position after the hull has been painted. 

The wireless aerial rigging and the spars are turned 
up from clean dowel rod. The Ijttle insulators are bits 
of %G-inch dowel rotated at very high speed in a drill 



280 



Model Engineering 



chuck in the lathe and tnrned to the desired shape with 
a very sharp tool. The chief difficulty will be met and 
overcome if these two precautions are exercised. 

The railings and stanchions are respectively of hard, 
smooth linen thread and slender steel brads. The brads 
are inserted into holes drilled at the proper places. Care 




Fig. 192 — The propeller shaft in the stem tube and the driving motor 



should be taken in driving the brads to make them all 
of the same height. The thread is taken over each 
stanchion in a half hitch which enables the constructor 
to draw the lines tightly, making the appearance neat 
and trim. Both railings and stanchions are painted gray. 
The little doors in the conning tower are of cigar box 
wood, carved to resemble the door and casing and secured 
to the tower by means of the marine cement and a few 
brads made from cut-off pins. 



CHAPTER XXIII 

A MODEL SUBMARINE WITH RADIO CONTROL* 

Building the hull and superstructure — The radio control mechanism — 
Electric power plant — Special two-point relay — Automatic apparatus. 

The hull of the submarine is nearly eight feet in 
length and, with machinery and ballast installed, the 
weight is a good 175 pounds without Avater ballast. The 
hull is patterned somewhat after the Lake ship-section 
submersible, but the characteristic design is carried a 




Fig. 193 — The hull of the sulDmarine completed 



step farther, giving EM2 good surface riding qualities 
rather than submerged speed. The bow and deck lines 
of the model resemble somewhat those of a torpedo boat 
destroyer submerged to such an extent that her deck is 
almost awash. This design gives ample room for ma- 
chinery and controls, and it affords space in the lower 
hull for ballast tanks by means of which the craft may 
be partially submerged while at rest. 

Fig. 193 is a photograph of the finished hull of 
wliite pine, with all compartments in place, and with the 

* This book is published at a time when wireless w^ork of an experi- 
mental nature is prohibited by the United States Government. The 
model maker is cautioned to bear this in mind until the order is with- 
drawn. 

281 



282 Model Engineering 



twin propellers installed. Fig. 195 is a scale drawing 
of the hull in plan and section. 

For convenience, the boards of which the hull is made, 
are numbered from 1 to 12, starting with the top board 
or gnnwale piece and finishing with the keel piece. The 
latter piece of board is not permanently secured in build- 
ing the hull as it is to be discarded after the hull lines 
are developed. This board is displaced by the actual 
keel of lead sho^^m in Fig. 196. 

From Fig. 195, the builder can lay out full-sized pat- 
terns of the twelve planks on heavy paper from which 



Shape of MoJ2 Board 




Nail Ends '• ^ . ^^ss^-^-t- ^z- 

"■■ Wooden blocks 



Fig. 194 — How the mould is made for casting the lead keel 

the designs may be transferred to the boards preparatory 
to sawing out. Let it be understood that the dimensions 
given are the finished sizes. The hull planks are to be 
cut somewhat oversize, say y^ inch, to permit of Avorking 
down mth draw-knife and spoke- shave. 

The method of procedure is first to saw out the entire 
twelve planks roughly to shape, nailing them with just 
a feAv brads to each other to form a more or less sub- 
stantial mass of wood which bears some resemblance to 
the finished hull. Then, before the inside is hollowed out, 
the draw-knife work is started. The tools must be keen, 
and the most effective method is a diagonal stroke which 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 288 




284 Model Engineering 

pares off the wood just as a jack-knife would cut it. 
This stroke lessens the labor tremendously and produces 
great execution. 

The hull may be worked down to its finished lines 
with the draw-knife before the work on the inside is 



l„„^ 



Fig. 196 — The keel of the submarine laid in place 

attempted. The only part to leave for the last is the 
actual ^'smoothing down'' process. 

Before taking the planks apart ready for sawing out 
the interior of the hull, be sure to mark each plank with 
its number in such manner that the number cannot be 
readily effaced. Also mark for ^^bow" and *^ stern" to 
obviate possible confusion in reassembling. "When this 
is done, take all planks apart and draw the brads. Then 
mark the No. 1 plank with the opening at the top which 
has for its most important dimension 7% inches in width. 
This is made for the benefit of the storage battery, which 
is of the standard automobile lighting type and of 6 
volts, 80 ampere-hours capacity. A storage battery of 
the same type but of 4 volts and 40 ampere-hours capacity 
supplies the current for the controls while the larger one 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 285 

drives the vessel. As the Avidth of each battery is 7% 
inches, the dimension specified is ample to accommodate 
the set. The other dimensions of the opening are not so 
important and the opening may well be scribed directly 
upon the No. 1 plank, after which it is to be cut out by 
means of a compass saw or preferably a power jig saw. 
This opening serves as the guide or template for the 
openings in planks 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. These openings are 
exactly alike. 

Eeference to the sectional view shows that Nos. 7 
and 8 begin to form the compartments. Nos. 9 and 10 
are still smaller, to care for the curvature of the lower 




Fig. 197 — Cross-section of the complete hull, showing the location of the 
water "ballast compartments 



part of the hull. These openings should be scribed indi- 
vidually on the several planks to make sure that the open- 
ing, when cut, will not pierce the wall or make it too thin 
in places. Fig. 193 shows very clearly how the openings 
become smaller as the bottom of the hull is reached. 

The assembly of the hull planks, after the openings 
have been cut, is started with No. 1, which is placed 
face down on the bench. No. 2 is to be nailed to this, 
care being taken to *^ register" the planks accurately. 
The other planks follow in natural order. Before nail- 
ing the planks, however, attention must be called to the 
sealing compound which cements the boards together and 
renders the hull impervious to water. The cement is 
made as follows: To one pint of the best bath tub 
enamel add one pound of good white lead, stirring thor- 
oughly until the lead is taken up by the enamel. Then 
add % pound of ordinary whiting (powder), mixing until 



286 



Model Engineering 



the mass has assnmed the consistency of thin, smooth 
pntty. Add to this i^ pint of good dryer to make the 
cement set qnickly. 

Apply the compound to hotli planks where they are 
to come in contact. A brush will serve notwithstanding 




Fig. 198 — The storage "batteries used on the submarine 

the thickness of the mixture. After making sure of the 
register, nail bow and stern with a single brad to hold 
in place. Then start at one end and nail with 1%-inch 
brads for this, the starting plank. Place brads not more 




Fig. 199 — The storage batteries in their compartments 



than 2 inches apart throughout the entire length of 
the hull. 

When the second plank is secured to the first, wipe 
the cement from the seam where it has been squeezed out 
and paint the surface of No. 2 and of No. 3 ready for 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 287 

register and nailing as before. Repeat with No. 4, but 
when that portion of the hull is reached where the pro- 
peller shafts are to pass through, refrain from placing 
nails in No. 4 and in No. 5 at the critical places where 
the bit would have to pass in boring the propeller shaft 
holes. This location is clearly indicated in the drawing 
and tlie photographs. 

When the hull has been assembled up to the point 
where the No. 12 or keel plank is to be laid, nail this one 
on with a dozen brads but do not put any cement in the 




Fig. 200 — The storage batteries and central control mechanism 



union. As stated before, this plank will ultimately be 
discarded. 

The hull may now be mped clean with a cloth slightly 
moistened with turpentine and the cement permitted to 
dry for at least two days. After this, the spoke-shave 
may be used freely to true up the lines, removing the 
inevitable '* bumps" left by the draw-knife. The final 
finish is with sandpaper. The priming coat of paint may 
then be applied. Good ship's paint in battleship gray 
is used. To this is added a quantity of pure white 
lead to lighten the shade somewhat. The first coat is 
applied after a cradle has been made for the hull. Here 
and there could be seen a depression or a ^^bump." 



288 



Model Engineering 




Fig. 201 — The driving motor with transmission gears mounted on the 

frame 



After the first coat is dry, the spoke-shave is used freely, 
taking down the high spots. The nicies and depressions 
are filled with the same compound used in the assembly 
of the hull. The mixture is made thicker, however, by 
the addition of a double quantity of whiting. This 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 289 

*^ putty'' is different from the ordinary variety in that it 
"sticks" wherever it touches (the hands are no excep- 
tion) and it dries as hard as stone. After a day of dry- 
ing, the putty is still soft enough to permit of smoothing 
up A\ith sandpaper, and when it is fmally covered with 



rJOTOR. 
BA5£ 



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PLAN OF 
TRAN5ni55IO// 



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noTOK \sMAPr 



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PLATES 




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i.iTl Illlllll SECTION TMR.OU&M 

^^^^^^ FR.On BENEATH 



SHOW//V(? fiOW TRANsmss/or/ 
IS fAST£fi/EO TO nOTOl^ &AS£. 



ALL PAR.T3 

B^A55 

EXCEPTSHAfrj 



TRAN5. EM-Z' 



Fig. 202 — Details of the transmission 



paint, the imperfection is absolutely invisible. The white 
spots on the hull in the photographs indicate where the 
depressions have been filed. 

When the hull paint is bone dry, the work on the 
interior may be started. All "whiskers" are removed 
with coarse sandpaper, which will smooth out the saw 
marks to a great extent. The compartments shown in 
the lower hold in Fig. 193 are merely to keep the water 



290 



Model Engineering 



from surging back and forth when the craft is in motion. 
These bulkheads are well perforated mth holes and are 
secured with brads. The storage battery compartment 
is made absolutely watertight. The drawing gives the 
details, the dotted lines indicating the compartment wall 
of i^-inch whitewood. The cement is freely used in as- 
sembling this compartment, the walls being literally plas- 
tered with it. "W^en the cement is bone dry, the battery 
compartment is given three consecutive coats of some 




Fig. 203 — The driving motor mounted in the hull and connected to the 
propeller shafts through spring couplings 



good acid-resisting compound obtainable from a large 
electrical supply store. 

The entire interior of the hull is next to be plastered 
with the cement, made somewhat thinner through the 
addition of more enamel. The mixture should be worked 
well into all corners and cracks until every corner is 
rounded out with the paint. The water compartments 
below should receive an especially liberal dose of the 
mixture. 

AMiile the interior of the hull is drying out, the builder 
may turn his attention to the construction of the keel 
which is of lead. 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 291 

The nicest way to make it is to take the No. 12 plank 
and, using it as a pattern, make a sand mould for the 
lead casting. If this is deemed impracticable, make a 
mould as shown in Fig. 194, using the No. 12 plank to 
give you the profile. Take this mould directly to a man- 
ufacturer of lead pipe or plumbers' supply house and 
have them pour the lead. The keel should weigh 75 
pounds, and the simplest way to gauge this is to place 
the mould on the scales and pour until the desired weight 
is attained. The keel is about an inch thick. Its shape 
and the proportion it bears to the hull is shown in Fig. 
196. The keel is secured to the hull by means of a quan- 
tit}' of flat head brass machine screws passing through 
the No. 11 hull plank and into tapped holes in the keel. 
All cracks, holes and other blemishes are filled with the 
cement, and after painting the keel looks as though it 
had grown on the hull. 

The ballast tanks in EM2 serve a twofold purpose. 
Primarily they are intended to partially or completely 
submerge the submarine while she is at the '^ wharf.'' 
Their secondary purpose is to ^^trim" the craft when she 
is placed in the water for the first time. The necessity 
for this latter procedure will be obvious to every veteran 
model builder. He will know from experience how nearly 
impossible it is to so distribute the load inside the hull so 
that the craft will float on an even keel when first she is 
launched. The tanks enable the operator to trim the 
submarine both fore and aft, causing her to assume not 
only the desired depth in the water, but also to overcome 
any pronounced tendency to ride lower by the bow than 
the stern, or vice versa. 

As described previously, the * Hanks" are built into 
the lower part of the hull. Theoretically they should be 
lined with zinc or copper. In practice, however, it has 
been found that this is unnecessary. A very liberal use 
of good waterproof paint over the interior of the hull 



292 



Model Engineering 



serves the purpose without the need for a very complex 
piece of sheet metal work such as the tank would rep- 
resent. 

The tanks are completed through the addition of a 
decking of %-inch wood thoroughly coated with the paint 
or cement described previously. This decking is to be 
literally cemented in place first of all and then, to add 
strength, it is nailed every inch or so to the step in the 
hull shown in the illustrations. Fig. 197 gives a section 




Fig. 204 — The stern of the hull, showing how the propeller shafts pass 

through 



through the hull with the tanks completed. The water 
is kept from surging back and forth by means of bulk- 
heads which divide the tanks into compartments repre- 
sented by W in the drawing. These bulkheads are per- 
forated so that the water entering the openings indicated 
in the bottom of the hull can find its way readily into all 
Compartments. ' 

The intake holes through the keel are left wide open 
at all times. The water is permitted to enter by opening 
air cocks on the superstructure of the submarine ; as the 
air in the tanks is permitted to escape through these 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 293 

cocks, the water enters. To discharge the ballast, com- 
pressed air is sent into the tanks through the cocks, thus 
driving the ballast out. This operation is the only one 
not performed through the medium of the radio control. 
It could be done, of course, while the craft is running, but 
the delicacy of the adjustment and the tendency of the 
craft to plunge to the bottom under such circumstances 
render such a plan inadvisable. 

The details of the air cocks and their location will be 
taken up later after the superstructure has been covered. 
To give such details at this point Avould necessitate repe- 
tition later. 

The storage battery is divided into two units ; one is 
for the motor which drives the craft, while the other is 
for the controller and the various control devices. The 
motor battery is a 6-volt 80-ampere-hour automobile 
lighting battery,, while the control battery is of 40-ampere- 
hour capacity at 4 volts. The dimensions given in the 
hull drawings in the preceding issue are suitable for a 
number of standard automobile batteries on the market. 
See Fig. 198. 

The battery compartment has been described. Suffice 
it to say here that no attempt should be made to fasten 
the battery in its place. The two units should be easily 
removable for repairs or for charging in the event that 
the whole model cannot be taken to a place where current 
is obtainable. See Figs. 199 and 200 for views of the 
battery in the hull. 

The motor selected for EM2 is" of a standard type 
obtainable in the open market. The motor has practically 
all of the desiral)le features found in commercial machines 
of large size. Eadial gauge brushes, mica insulated 
commutator, adequate oiling facilities, form wound coils, 
and a li]:erally designed frame, are among its excellent 
features. 

The transmission has been added solely to permit the 



294 



Model Engineering 



motor to run at relatively high speed with moderate pro- 
peller speed. The arrangement of the gears is such that 
a speed reduction of 2 to 1 is obtained with the shafts 
for the propellers running in opposite directions. This, 
of course, necessitates the use of a left- and a right-hand 
screw. 

The motor with its transmission is well shoA\Ti in Fig. 
201, which gives a front and rear view of the poAver plant. 
These photographs, together with the detail drawing, 




Fig. 205 — The stem of the hull, showing propellers in place 



Fig. 202, should make clear the entire scheme of the 
transmission. 

The reader will note that a 48-tooth brass gear is 
secured to the motor shaft. This is a stock 1-inch gear of 
48 pitch. Meshed with this gear is a 96-tooth gear, 2-inch 
diameter, mounted upon one of the transmission shafts. 
Meshed with this gear is a second 96-tooth gear mounted 
upon the second shaft. The layout drawing in Fig. 202 
will make this clear. The gears are represented by pitch 
circles. The operation is obvious. The motor gear A 
turns the first large gear B, which in turn operates the 
second large gear C in the opposite direction. 

While on the subject of transmission, it may be well 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 29.5 

to suggest liow the bearing plates are laid out and fitted 
to the motor frame. The first operation is to locate and 
drill the holes in the upper part of the plates, drilling 
clearance in the front plate and tap size for 8/32 in the 
rear plate. Place screws in the holes to grip the plates 
together. Next locate the center hole at the bottom and 
drill Xo. 9 to clear a 10/32 screw, which may be inserted 
and held ^^ith a nut. The plates may then be filed up 
square and true to each other. All holes Avill thereafter 
be drilled through hotli plates at the same time to insure 
alignment. 

The 14-inch hole for the motor shaft will be next in 
order. This hole is located near the letter A in the layout 
dramng. When the hole has been drilled, remove the 
10/32 screw from the center hole at the bottom of the 
plates and slip the motor shaft through the hole. Clamp 
to the motor frame with the distance piece shown in all 
views between plates and frame. Square up with motor 
base and run a No. 9 drill through the lower hole to spot 
into the motor base. Follow with* tap drill for 10/32 
and tap out. 

After this, remove the plates and replace clamping 
screw in the lower hole. Next lay off the center for the 
gear B by scribing with dividers set to 1%-inch radius 
from center of motor shaft hole. Strike a vertical line 
^'Ke inch to right of center and spot for the i/4-inch hole 
for B gear shaft. Now set dividers to 2-inch radius and 
swing from the B gear hole to the left on a horizontal line. 
This will give the spot for the C gear hole. Drill B and 
C holes mth i/4-inch drill, making sure the drill is ground 
true so as to insure that it will not cut oversize. The 
plates may now be separated and the rear plate replaced 
on the motor shaft with a short 10/32 screw temporarily 
placed in the center hole to clamp the plate to the motor 
base. The holes for the flat head countersunk screws may 
then be drilled and tapped and the plate permanently 



296 Model Engineering 

secured to the motor frame. If the work has been done 
carefully the motor shaft will turn without any bind when 
the plate is secured. 

The bearings for the transmission shafts next require 
attention. These are turned up from %-inch hexagon 
brass stock and sweated to the front bearing plate. For 
this operation, a % -inch wooden dowel was placed in the 
plate and bearing holes to line them up. and the surface 




Fig. 206 — One of the propellers used on the submarine 

of the plate and the under side of the bearing coated 
with soldering paste. A very hot soldering copper was 
then used to flow solder around the joint, care being taken 
to see that the solder actually sweated into the joint be- 
tween the bearing and the plate. The plate was set up 
on three brads to keep it away from the bench for this 
operation. When the job cooled, the bearing plates were 
found to be in perfect alignment, thanks to the doAvels, 
although the latter were badly charred at the point of 
union. An oiled rag run through the hole cleaned the 
bearing surface of the trace of carbon left by the burned 
wood. 

The A gear is secured to the motor shaft with a 
pointed set-screw, while the B and C gears are fastened 
to their shafts by means of brass escutcheon pins driven 
into holes drilled through gear boss and shaft. The ends 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 297 

of tlie transmission shafts are threaded 1/4-20 to take the 
steel springs which provide flexible couplings to the pro- 
peller shafts. 

All that remains is the assembly. The spacing collars 
are self-explanatory in the drawings. The reader will 
note that the 10/32 screAv temporarily placed in the rear 
plate is displaced by a long stnd, which passes through 
both plates with a spacing collar or sleeve betAveen. These 
sleeves Avere made by cutting oif the desired lengths of 
%-inch brass pipe in the lathe. An additional feature 
not slioAA^i in the illustrations might Avell be a simple 
oilcup in each bearing of the transmission. 

Fig. 203 shows the motor and transmission mounted 
in the hull. The method of coupling shoA\m has been sim- 
plified and improved upon by removing the shaft hangers 
and substituting long, tightly wound steel springs of the 
door-spring variet}^ So stiff and so tightly wound are 
these springs that they afford an almost perfect flexible 
coupling to the propeller shafts. The ends of the springs 
are forced on the threads of the transmission and pro- 
peller shafts, where they will stay put until removed by 
main force. The propeller shafts were cut off close to 
the shaft housing sIioaati at the extreme left in Fig. 203, 
and much more clearly in Fig. 204. 

Little need be said of the shaft housings. They are 
merely lengths of i/s-inch brass pipe fitted Avith a standard 
brass cap at either end. The caps are of course drilled 
for the shaft. The space betAveen the end of the pipe and 
the cap is ample for the lampAA^ck and talloAv packing 
necessary to exclude Avater. The size and shape of the 
propellers is AA^ell sIioaati in Fig. 206, AA^here a hand is 
included to giA^e an idea of the proportions. The average 
builder Avill Avant to take adA^antage of a stock propeller 
rather than make patterns and have just a single casting 
made from each. The relation of the propellers to the 
hull is shoA\ni in Fi^:. 205. Thev are secured to the shafts 



298 Model Engineering 

by a simple screw thread and pinned to prevent loosen- 
ing. This threading operation was easily accomplished 
by chncking the propeller in the three-jaw chnck, facing 
off, centering, drilling and tapping l^-20. 

The steering rudder is well sho^\m in Fig. 207, as it 
appears beneath the hull at the stern of the model. Fig. 
208 gives a glimpse into the hull, showing the rudder 



Fig. 207 — The stern of the submarine hull, showing one of the propellers 

and the rudder 



mechanism in position. Fig. 209 shows the rudder mech- 
anism in parts, giving an idea of the proportions of each 
piece to the others. 

For the constructural data, the reader is referred to 
Figs. 210, 211, and 213, which are working drawings of 
the several parts of the control. The remaining illustra- 
tions, Figs. 212 and 214, show the complete mechanism 
installed within the hull. 

For an explanation of the working principle let us 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 299 

to Figs. 210, 211, and 213, with an occasional glance at the 
photographic views. The rudder proper is of sheet brass 
sweated into a saw-cut in the end of the rudder post. 




Fig. 208 — The rudder control mechanism 



The latter passes through a brass pipe sleeve or housing 
fitted with packing glands at either end. 

To the top of the rudder post is fitted a brass disc 
having a shallow groove turned in its periphery to carry 




Fig. 209 — The parts of the rudder control mechanism 

the ^ filler cord" or its equivalent in this case. The con- 
struction and assembly of post and disc is clearly shown 
in the detail drawing, Fig. 210. The hub of the disc is 
sweated with solder to the disc. The projecting arm of 



300 



Model Engineering 



the post is threaded into the latter and tightened by 
means of the lock nnt shown. The function of this pro- 
jecting arm is to carry the central spring, which helps 
keep the rudder in a neutral position. 

In the disc there are two little countersunk holes. See 
Detail B in Fig 211. Each of these holes is 25 degrees 




rig. 210— Section through the stem of the hull, showing the arrangement 
of the rudder mechanism 



to one side of the neutral position of the rudder. Mounted 
directly above th^ disc, see Fig. 210, is a small solenoid 
in which a plunger of iron slides freely. The lower end 
of this plunger is conical in shape to fit the countersunk 
holes in the disc. 

The action of the mechanism is as follows : When the 
tiller cord is pulled to the right (by solenoids to be de- 
scribed) against the tension of the neutralizing spring, 



A Model Suhjiiarine With Radio Control 301 

the disc moves beneath the solenoid plunger until the 
latter drops into one of the holes. Here the rudder will 
stay until the next operation, which sends a current 
through the little solenoid, releases the rudder, sending it 
back to the neutral position. Likewise the left-hand pull 
of the rudder serves to engage the solenoid pin Avith the 
second hole. 

The big feature of this mechanism is the fact that cur- 
rent is used for an instant only — just long enough to pull 
the rudder to port or starboard. It remains in that posi- 




ng. 211 — Plan of the stern and rudder mechanism 



tion until released, although no current is used in the 
retaining operation. The net result is that we can use 
a comparativeh^ large current for the actual pull of the 
rudder, making the operation positive and trustworthy, 
and still maintain the essential economy of current con- 
sumption. 

The tiller cord has been referred to. This is a length 
of the round type of shoestring, strong and very flexible, 
attached to the disc by the retaining screw shoA\Ti in 
Detail B, Fig. 211. This cord, running in the groove in 
the disc, passes on to a large solenoid on either side of 
the hull. The photographs and the drawings. Figs. 211, 
212, 213 and 214, will make this clear. The plunger of 



302 



Model Engineering 



each solenoid passes entirely through the coil in order 
that tension springs may be attached to the rear end of 
each plunger to assist in keeping the rudder in a neutral 
position and to keep the tiller cord tight. 

The small solenoid used to retain the rudder in the 
desired position is wound with No. 24 wire, enameled, in 
layers 1 inch long upon the brass tube of the mechanism. 
The careful workman can get on 45 turns per layer and 




Fig. 212 — The complete rudder mechanism, showing the solenoids 



the winding should be about 18 layers deep. This wind- 
ing is designed for use with the 6-volt storage battery. 

The large steering solenoids are wound Avith No. 16 
D. C. C. wire, 68 turns per layer, and 8 layers deep to 
each coil. The brass tube upon which the solenoid is 
Avound should be a sliding fit over a piece of %-inch Nor- 
way iron rod made perfectly smooth. There must not be 
any friction in this sliding fit. If Norway iron cannot be 
obtained, cold rolled steel may be used, but the pull is 
lessened appreciably. 

The mounting for the solenoids is of hardwood. In 
mounting the coils within the hull, care should be exer- 
cised to see that the plunger of the solenoid has a straight 
pull on the cord rather than one at a slight angle. It 
will probably be necessary to block out the rear end of 
each solenoid base with shims of wood to effect this. 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 303 



The current density in the solenoids is comparatively 
high. The small coil pulls about 5 amperes, or enough to 
heat it disastrously if the current were permitted to re- 



m'ddfe Line of Hull-. 
. , J. 




Fig. 213 — Details of one of the controlling solenoids of the rudder 
mechanism 

main on. The large coils draw 15 amperes apiece at 6 
volts. This amount of current produces a pull that Avill 
draw the plunger out of one's fingers nine times out of 




Fig. 214 — Close-up view of the rudder solenoids in place 

ten, providing the plunger is inserted three-quarters of 
its length when the current is applied. This high current 
density is not objectionable, however, in view of the fact 
that it is applied for but one or two seconds at a time. 



304 



Model Engineering 



In the radiodynamic control of a distant model of 
some sort, there are a nnmber of practical considerations 
involved aside from the actnal problem of how to do the 
trick. For instance, the distance over which control is 
to be effected is most important. The difficulties increase 
amazingly as the distance between transmitter and re- 
ceiver increases. Another point to consider is whether 




Rudder 
Shaff- 



Pack .- 



Rudder.. 




Thread 

^ Bra 5^ Hex. 
Rod 



Fig. 215 



Fig-. 216 



Fig. 215 — Dimensions of the solenoid supports 
Fig. 216 — Section through the rudder post 



the control must be selective or whether a progressive 
series ©f evolutions, each dependent upon the pressure 
of the radio key, is all that the builder desires. 

One thing that is absolutely .essential in any system 
of this kind is some means of determining just what is 
going on inside the hull of the model when the key is 
pressed. True, the craft will respond, but we must know 
beforehand just what is going to happen at the instant 
of pressure of the key. 

There are two ways of doing this. One is to have a 
series of colored lights on the deck of the model, each 
•color representing some distinct evolution of the craft. 
A chart on shore tells the operator what each color means 
so that he can guide his signals accordingly. The other 
method involves the use of a clock-work mechanism to 
operate the control fingers, with a synchronous mechan- 



A 31 odd Suhmarine With Radio Control 305 

ism, turning at exactly the same rate of speed on shore 
in front of the control operator. By observing his clock 
the operator can determine exactly what contact finger is 




Fig. 217 — The central distributor for the three-circuit controller 



in connection at any given time and can send his signals 
accordingly. 

The colored-light signal device is admirably adapted 
for nse with models where the control need not extend 
more chan a few hundred yards at the most. 



306 Model Engineering 

The system consists essentially of a mechanism the 
function of Avhich is to periodically open and close a cer- 
tain number of circuits. The colored lights, each color 
representing- a circuit, tell at all times the position of the 
contactor. The function of the radio impulse is to com- 
plete the operative circuit to any given device in the 
submarine at just the desired moment. In other words, 
the operative circuits are all open, as the contact finger 
moves from one point to another, until such time as a 
radio signal comes in. This serves to close a relay, send- 
ing current through the desired solenoid or motor or 
whatever happens to be the operative mechanism of the 
circuit in question. 

In the design for the distributor or controller-proper, 
there are a number of considerations. If space is at a 
premium, and a very large number of controls is deemed 
necessary, the type shown in Fig. 218 is better. This 
device is essentially an instrument switch having a double 
row of contacts and a contact arm which is continuously 
rotated by means of an electric motor mechanically con- 
nected by means of worm gearing. The small rheostat 
is to control the motor speed. 

In this controller or distributor, the operative circuits 
are taken from the outside row of contacts while the 
lamp or signal circuits are taken from the inner row. 
The one advantage of the two rows is found in the fact 
that but a single white lamp need be used to indicate the 
^'off " position of the contact finger following each col- 
ored flash. 

The coherer and decoherer are mounted upon an up- 
right Avooden piece at the end of the controller base in 
such a position that the coherer tube is readily accessible 
for adjustment through a hatch in the deck of the sub- 
marine. 

. The distributor shown has twelve contacts, which 
means that it will control six complete circuits or evolu- 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 307 

tions ; that is, six on and six off. Thus the model can be 
made to start, stop, turn to right, turn to neutral, turn 
to left, back to neutral, fire a deck gun, flash on a search- 
light, turn it off, blow a whistle, discharge a torpedo, fire 




u^ 



J 



B,;S«"" wm 




JL^gs^-Uriil^^ - 


»' 




l^>-^Mlf^ 




"^^^i;^ 


1 1 1 




1^ J 


k . , • 


T^^ 


HHH^^^ii^ «!:'* 


^^^'Nhm 


B^M 



Fig. 218— The central distributor for the six-circuit controller 



308 Model Engineering 

a signal rocket. Or, in lieu of two of these evolutions, 
it can be made to submerge and rise with the diving 
planes fore and aft. The point to remember is that any 
operation that is performed in an instant, such as firing 
a gun, can be done without the expenditure of the second 
contact to turn the current off. All of the devices such 
as rudder solenoids, driving motor, etc., in EM2 are so 
designed as to keep on operating until a second impulse 
turns the current off. 

The distributor shoi^m in Fig. 217 is somewhat easier 
to build, but it does not lend itself so readily to a large 
number of circuits. In this device the cylinder carrying 
a series of contact studs, each contacting in turn with a 
brush or finger, is revolved slowly with the usual worm 
gear and motor drive. This distributor has six contacts, 
which means that it is good for three evolutions: start 
motor, stop motor, turn right, turn back to neutral, turn 
to left, back to neutral. This is all that would he re- 
quired of the average torpedo and for simplicity of con- 
struction and control, this form is splendid. 

Still a third form may.be used and this has some pro- 
nounced advantages over the others. It consists of a 
segmented ring of metal, each segment representing a 
circuit, around which a brush travels slowly. The advan- 
tage here is that it gives the operator the maximum of 
time in which to read and respond to his signals. 

The large wiring diagram will make all connections 
clear without many words of explanation. In reading 
the diagram, the builder is advised to trace with a pencil 
each circuit, keeping in mind the position of the contact 
arm at the time. For instance, to start the motor, he 
will see that the control current is sent through a two- 
way switch that will stay in whichever position it is dra^vn 
by the magnet on either side. To stop it, the current is 
sent through the opposite magnet for an instant to draw 
the lever over. 



A Model Submarine With Radio Co7itrol 309 




310 



Model Engineering 




Aeria/ 



5olenotcf Lock 

■for 
.- Fudder Conirol 



ham daifsry 

SL 



^1 




1 



M 



Motor 



— Steer ni^hfO 6- O ^l Ooff 



\ s 

2^ 



'''^%X^ 



"^ fiofor on 



off on 

IZ) 



Coherer 



\^u^^^-^ 



Ground 



Fig. 220 — Wiring diagram for the three-control distributor. Each circuit 
and control is connected with a colored light 



The coherer is the inherent weakness of any radio 
control system. For simple model work the old fashioned 
coherer with silver pings and a half-and-half mixture of 
nickel and silver filings is abont as good as any. The 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 311 

plugs should be at least half an inch apart in the glass 
tube and the intervening space loosely filled with the 
filings mixture. 

One problem in the construction of the Model Sub- 
marine EM2 was to provide a means whereby the current 
operating the main driving motor could be turned on or 
off by the control device. The switch controlling this 
circuit, of course, had to be of such a construction that 
the contacts would remain in the desired position until 
the next impulse came. Furthermore, from the economic 
standpoint it was essential that no current be used to 
maintain the switch contacts in either position, the im- 
pulse serving merel}^ to bring the contacts to the on or off 
position as the case might be. 

Some experimentation resulted in the relay switch 
shown in the photograph, 222, and the drawing, 221. 

Essentially, the switch consists of an arm of soft 
steel, pivotally arranged between the poles of two mag- 
nets, and above this armature two springs of phosphor 
bronze so disposed as to contact mth the end of the arma- 
ture as the latter is drawn to one side or the other by 
means of the magnet through which current is sent. 

The magnets are of the standard instrument type of 
2.5 ohms resistance each. These magnets are sold at 
such a low price in the open market that it is cheaper 
and more satisfactory to purchase them outright than to 
construct them. Each magnet is mounted upon the up- 
right of a piece of brass angle as shown in the illustra- 
tions. The distance between armature and pole piece of 
the magnet should not be greater than %2 inch to insure 
reliable operation without the expenditure of an inordi- 
nate amount of energy in the act. 

The armature is a piece of cold rolled steel (unless 
wrought iron is available) of i/4-inch by i/2-inch section. 
It is drilled for the pivot at its lower end and this fit 
should be a good one. The armature should swing freely 



312 



Model Engineering 



back and forth but a loose and slovenly fit cannot be tol- 
erated as it will lead to trouble. 

The spring strip contacts are mounted upon brass 
angle pieces and their adjustment is shown by the photo- 
graph infinitely better than a thousand words of explana- 
tion could describe it. This adjustment is possibly the 
only ^Hicklish" part of the job. Too much pressure will 
prevent the armature from being drawn to the reverse 




Fig. 221 — The two-point relay switch 

position. Too little pressure will not hold the armature 
in the desired position against the inevitable vibration of 
a model boat hull. Of course the design of the switch 
is such that gravity aids in keeping the armature in either 
one position or the other as, when it shifts from one side 
to the other, the center of gravity shifts with it. When 
the correct adjustment is obtained, the armature will 
click over from one position to the other the instant the 
current is applied and it will stay in that position until 
current is sent through the other magnet. 



■ 11 



A Model Suhjnarifie With Radio Control 313 

The superstructure of the model is so designed as to 
permit of ready access to the machinery within through 
the openings which are covered Avith simple hatches of 
wood secured by means of brass nuts on screws passing 
up from beneath. 

A complete drawing of the superstructure and deck- 
ing is given in Fig. 224, which shows a plan and a side 




Fig. 222 — The relay switch assembled 



elevation in section. Note that the superstructure is built 
up of two thicknesses of y^-mch material and one of 
%-inch stock. The latter is secured after the former 
are worked down to finished shape. In this thin piece 
of lumber are placed the brass machine screws which hold 
the nuts for the hatches. All dimensions are given in the 
drawings. 

In placing the superstructure on the hull, and, like- 
wise, in nailing the two pieces of stock together, the 



314 Model Engineering 

white lead and whiting cement is to be nsed plentifully. 
The cement is to be applied to the stock on both surfaces 
before nailing together. 

To counteract possible warping, the superstructure 
should be secured with both screws and nails. A flat- 
head screw placed every 8 inches or so will draw the 
superstructure right down to the hull, squeezing out the 
cement which can be scraped off when nearly hard, leav- 




Fig. 223 — The submarine with the deck removed 

ing a perfect union between hull and superstructure. As 
the decking of thin wood is placed on the superstructure 
after the latter is securely fastened, the screws and nail 
heads are covered. 

The wiring and the installation of the machinery were 
done after the superstructure had been finished. The 
object of this was to insure that the interior fittings might 
be removed after the deck was finished. 

The greater part of the wiring was done with No. 14 
standard rubber covered and the balance with No. 18 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 315 





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i 

-4 

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t 1 

Hi 

? 1 


<- s ■ -- 


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316 



Model Engineering 



fixture wire. The insulation on these conductors is so 
good that little care need be exercised to keep them apart. 
They may be ^^ fished'^ beneath the deck and held under 




/f" 



-> 



Fig. 225 — Drawing of the conning tower for the submarine 



staples with impunity. On all circuits where the current 
is heavy, the larger wire was used. 

As a measure of safety, 10-ampere fuses should be 
inserted in the leads from the large storage battery and 
5-ampere fuses in those from the small control battery. 
This protection is really very important, as the current 
from either battery on short circuit might easily reach a 



A Model Suhviarine With Radio Control 317 

Jiundred amperes or even more. Incidentally, such a 
discharge would ruin the battery. The heaviest current 
drawn is 15 amperes; however, this is only for an in- 
stant and the fuses specified will hold it easily for the 
second or two it is on. 

As an additional precaution, it is well to provide 
switches just inside the battery compartment in order 




Fig. 226 — The stern of the craft, showing the rudder release solenoid 



that the two batteries may be totally disconnected from 
the mains when the model is not in use. In the photo- 
graph showing the battery compartment. Fig. 231, the 
s\^itch at the left is to disconnect the main battery, while 
the one at the right starts and stops the control device 
motor. AVhen these switches are open, no current can 
flow through the circuits, even though the controller 
might be left in an ^'on'' position. 

EM2 has controls as follows: turn to right, neutral; 
turn to left, neutral; start motor, stop motor. The div- 



318 



Model Engineering 



ing plans are manually operated; that is, they are tilted 11 
to the diving position by hand. Should any reader, in 
building this model, choose to add the radio control, he 




Fig. 227 — The driving motor, with relay switch mounted in place 

has but to construct a mechanism similar in principle to 
that employed in the control of the rudder. 

In order to use the central control device described, 
the contacts have been grouped into pairs by bridging 




Fig. 228 — The block upon which the signal lights are mounted 

across adjacent studs so that each contact is repeated as 
the arm travels around. The leads from the contacts 
are of flexible lamp cord brought up to screws and Avash- 
ers along the side of the opening in the superstructure. 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 319 

The relay switch, which serves to turn on and off the 
current to the driving motor, was described previously. 
The drawings give all details of the conning toAver 
and deck fittings. The aerial is carried by a tall central 
mast and it inclines toward a shorter mast at either end 
of the craft. A thoroughly dry dowel boiled in paraffin 
provides a good mast of high insulating qualities. So 
eifectual is this treatment that no insulators are found 




rig. 229 — The controlling mechanism exposed by the removal of the 
forward hatch 



necessary. It is admitted, however, that the true model 
maker will not be content with such an arrangement. For 
him the employment of tiny insulators turned from hard 
rubber or black fiber rod of about l^ inch diameter is 
necessary. 

The lead-in is taken from the center of the aerial and 
brought down to the contact on the deck of the conning 
tower. From this point, a piece of rubber covered lamp 
cord leads to one side of the coherer. The other side of 
the coherer is connected with a heaw wire that leads 



320 



Model Engineering 



down through the hull and makes electrical connection 
with the lead keel. 

The ballast tanks in the lower part of the hull are of 
sufficient size to hold water to completely submerge the 
model. A piece of brass pipe leads from the machinery 
deck both fore and aft to the outside of the hull where 
each pipe terminates in a small pet cock. When these 
cocks are opened, the air in the tanks is permitted to 




Fig. 230 — Drawing of the hatches 



escape, with the result that water enters. When the 
model is ^'trimmed" by the bow and stern, the pet cocks 
may be closed, thereby preventing the entrance of more 
water. To discharge the water ballast, air pressure is 
applied to the pet cocks by means of rubber tubing from 
a tank. 

The coherer in the control device is sufficiently sensi- 
tive to respond to the impulses sent out by a spark coil 
of the standard ''2-inch" wireless type, using the obso- 



A Model Submarine With Radio Control 321 

lete method of connecting the antenna and ground across 
the spark gap. 

The maximnm distance for fairly reliable operation 
was found to be about 100 yards. A tuned transmitter, 
tuned to the exceedingly short natural wave length of the 
diminutive submarine aerial, would increase the distance 
as would also a transmitter of greater power. 




Fig. 231 — The central hatch lifted, showing the storage batteries, 
signal lamps are shown at the right 



The 



The adjustment of the coherer is a tedious task, but, 
when once attained, it is reasonably permanent. A mix- 
ture of about equal parts of pure silver and nickel filings 
is used, which must be quite free from grease. The best 
working distance for the coherer plugs was found to be 
between % and % inch with" the space between practi- 
cally filled with filings. 



CHAPTER XXIV 

A MODEL CRANE 
The design of the crane — ^Its construction — The electrical driven hoist. 

AVlien the amateur constrnctor interests himself in 
model erane construction, he delves into a field that has 
a wide range of interesting apparatus. There are many 
types of cranes, any of which, if constructed, will well 
repay the builder, as the amount of instruction and 




Fig. 232 — The plan of the electric derrick crane 



amusement derived from them is great. Of all the many 
kinds, the most common is the derrick or jib crane. This 
type is seen in lumber yards, stone quarries, steel mills, 
and especially in construction work. 

It consists of a mast, Fig. 232, to which a boom or jib 

322 



A Model Crane 323 

is attached so that it may swing up or do^Aoi. A movable 
pulley with a hook is run from the end of the boom. 
These two elements, the boom and the hook, are sepa- 
rately controlled by cables, which are wound on wind- 
ing drums. 

In this model crane the double drum electric hoist, 
which is described in the following chapter, is used. 
Miniature structural iron is used in the mast and boom 




Fig. 233 — The derrick assembled 

of the derrick, and its use did not bring forth as many 
obstacles as contemplated. This feature can be used in 
many other models, as it is easily and cheaply con- 
structed. 

It merely consists of angle tin held together by means 
of very small rivets. Iron round head rivets, % inch in 
diameter by %6 inch long, are used. These are the small- 
est procurable and have to be sawed to about % i^ch 
long. They are driven cold on account of the difficulties 



324 Model Engineering 

encountered in fitting and holding same if they are driven 
hot. The round head is left exposed. 

The boom and mast are made in this manner : While 
sticks of wood will suffice for the pieces, the realistic ap- 
pearance of this material is seen by the photographs, 
Figs. 233, 234. 

The angle iron or tin nsed as the sides of the mast 
and boom is obtained from a tinner who has access to a 




Fig. 234 — Rear view of the derrick 



bending machine. Four each of twenty- arid thirty-inch 
strips are required. Holes are bored in the long angles 
which are used in the boom, as indicated in Fig. 236. 
These holes are bored identically on both sides of the 
angle. Four web plates (B), Fig. 237, are cut and drilled 
as shown and riveted to angles. The ends are then bent 
down to the one-half -inch square brass end blocks (E) 
and (F). The angles are held against these blocks by 
tying a cord around them. Holes are then drilled through 
the strips and blocks with a No. 28 drill and then tapped 
with an 8-32 tap. One-quarter-inch, 8-32, round head 
screws are screwed into these holes, holding the strips 
in place as shown in the assembly of the boom. Fig. 235. 



fi 



A Model Crane 



325 



<s>-^ 








^ Ljj- 



15 



® 



326 



Model Engineering 



A rigging, made of strips (D, E and C), has to be 
made so as to provide clearance for the jib pulley when 
the boom is in a high or low position. Details of these 
so-called supports are shown in Figs. 238 and 239. Four 
tackle supports and two pulley supports are required. 




Fig. 250 — The back of the derrick 



The cross bracing seen in the assembly of the boom^ ' 
Fig. 235, is merely No. 16 iron or copper wire, woven 
through the holes bored for this purpose. 

The building of the mast, Fig. 242, is more difficult 
than the boom, as more riveting has to be done. The 
side angles of the mast are bored, as shown in Fig. 243. 
The web plate (B), Fig. 245, should be put on first. It 
will be noticed that no detail has been given for the 
diagonal strips (G), as their length and shape of ends 
vary. While dimensions are given for the location of 
rivet holes in the strips and plates, the writer finds it 
more advantageous to bore the holes in the angles only 



A Model Crane 



327 



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3C 






lenfi^ rt^/«»»' ^«/^« S*n<y'r,^ - ^ /■/■ 



ZZHEffi 



V- 









ffiF'X, 



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V/if.2^9£'nt^ o/ ^gj-: 




/^f^ ^"i".? ^Zy Sear/np 



Figs. 251-261 — Details of the derrick 



and then cut the strips to length and locate the holes in 
the strips by means of the holes in the angles. It will 
be noticed also that where two or more strips come to- 
gether only one rivet holds them together. It is best to 
build up the two separate sides complete and then fasten 
these sides together. This facilitates riveting. Only two 



328 Model Engineering 

pnlley plates (B) and boom bearings (D) are required, 
and they are riveted on the same opposite sides. 

When the sides are all fastened together, square 
wooden blocks (J), Fig. 242, are fastened at each end by 
screwing the sides to the wood blocks. The block at the 
bottom or the end nearest to where the boom swings has 
a rod (H) 5 inches long held by a pin (I). This rod (H) 
is a shaft for the bevel gears (J), Fig. 250. Its diam- 
eter is dependable upon the size of the hole in the bevel 
gears. 

The boom swings at the foot of the mast by placing 
a shaft, 1/4 iiich in diameter by 2% inches long, through 
the end block of the boom and is fastened to the boom 
by a screw bored through the end block and shaft. Col- 
lars are provided at the end of the shaft. Fig. 249 shows 
this very clearly. 

The mast is mounted on a box-like base in which bevel 
gears are 'mounted for turning the derrick and switches 
for controlling the hoist. Fig. 250 shows a front view 
of the apparatus. 

The bevel gears (J) have a ratio of about two to one. 
Any convenient size may be used, the writer using 4- 
inch and 2-inch gears taken from an old churning ma- 
chine. The small gear is arranged on a shaft with a 
handle. Fig. 256, to turn the large gear. The shaft de- 
tailed in Fig. 255 is of iron, steel or brass, and is shown 
% inch in diameter, although, of course, any other size 
may be used to fit the holes in the gears. If such is the 
case, the holes shown in the detail of the angle bearing 
(C), Fig. 253, and bearing plate (D), Fig. 254, will vary 
accordingly. A bearing plate similar to (D) Fig. 254 is 
used to hold the shaft extending from the mast in the 
bottom of the box. 

The mast is held rigidly upright by means of the legs 
(A). These are detailed in Fig. 251. They are slotted 
as shown and soldered to a plate which allows the mast 



A Model Crane 329 

to turn by means of a wood screw screwed through the 
plate into the top wooden block of the mast. The legs are 
threaded at one end and bolted to feet, Fig. 257, on the 
base. 

No details of .the pnlleys will be given, as the average 
experimenter generally has several aronnd his shop which 
are adaptable for this purpose. The shape and arrange- 
ments of these pulleys, however, are seen in the general 
view, Fig. 232. For the cables between the pulleys and 
Avinding drum, stout string is used. 

The double drum electric hoist is mounted on the base 
and one drum is connected to the boom pulley and the 
other to the hook pulley. The switches used for revers- 
ing the motors of the hoist are of the pole changing type 
Avith a dead point in the center. The arms of these are 
extended through slits in the sides of the box and han- 
dles fastened to these extensions. This is clearly illus- 
trated in Fig. 233. Double pole, double throw switches 
may also be used to control the motors, the switches be- 
ing mounted on a separate switchboard. 

If the reader does not care to have the operation 
electric, he can construct hand-operated winches for the 
derrick. 

The Avhole apparatus should be painted a dull black, 
which gives it a commercial and serviceable appearance. 



CHAPTER XXV 

AN ELECTRIC DOUBLE-DRUM HOIST 

The design of the hoist — Calculation of the power needed — Construction 

of the machine. 

Every model maker delights in making models of 
machinery, so that when they are constructed they have 
the appearance of the larger article and their limits of 
usefulness are just as great. The double drum electric 
hoist, about to* be described, comes up to these require- 
ments. Its range of utility is varied. It may be used 
on small cranes or derricks, elevators, double hoists, 
traveling hoists, and probably many other uses will sug- 
gest themselves to the constructor. 

By consulting the plan. Fig. 262, it will be seen that 
each winding drum is driven by a separate motor, which 
simplifies the control of the hoists. Eight gears will be 
required, two of each of the following : 96 teeth, 12 teeth, 

48 teeth and 20 teeth. The dimensions between the 
shafts are for gears of 32 pitch. In case the reader has 
some other size gears on hand he should, of course, use 
them, although the distance between the shafts will not 
be the same. Quite a little power is developed at the 
winding drum, the apparatus easily lifting several dry 
batteries. This will be readily seen, as the speed is 
12x20 5 

= — of that of the driving motor, and as the 

49 X 96 96 

lifting power varies inversely with the speed the lifting 

96 
power is — or 19% times that at the motor. 
5 

330 



An Electric Double-Drum Hoist 



331 



The two sides (A), Fig. 263, are made of sheet iron 
or brass about %g inch thick. The figure shows the lo- 
cation of the holes for the shafts, guy rods and base 
angles. The most convenient way to bore these holes 
accurately is to first locate and bore the Vs-inch holes 
in each corner of each piece and then fasten the two 
pieces together with 6-32 screws through these holes and 



ft 



yVti^ar /VtZ-of 



1 ^ ic — a— jl I 

^^ --^"-ftiiiiiifi i 



ra 



(T^) 



T Ui<-- -^-4^ 



1 ^ ^^W ^^-l ^Ll 



^0 ±::J±^:£:^ 




IIIIIIIIIIJIJI^NM Jllll lltlllll l l l li llllJMy 



Fig. 262 — Plan of the. electric hoist 



finish the plates to size. The shaft and base angle holes 
are then located and bored. 

Fig. 265 represents the guy rods, four in number^ 
which are %-inch round brass rods and threaded % inch 
on each end with a 6-32 die. These rods hold the sides 
in place, as shown in Fig. 262. 

Fig. 264 is a drawing of the shaft (B), two of Avhich 
are needed. They are preferably steel rod, although 
brass or iron will serve the purpose equally well. 

The winding drum (C), Fig. 266, consists of a shaft 



332 



Model Engineering 



on to whicli are soldered two discs. The best way to 
solder these on is to bore the hole for the shaft through 
the disc a trifle scant and then force them on the shaft, 
after which it should be soldered by heating it with a 
blow-torch and the acid flux and solder applied with a 



^i^ 



4 ^- 



# -© 






'T 



-/^-^-^ 



-^J 



-^ //■-* i 







Fig. Z63^^) S/de. 






ummm 



^ 



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H'l'i-i'i'i'i'i'i-i' 



B 



F/gr, 2e^/2)je(yt/ /?ot/ 




Figs. 263-268 — Details of the double drum electric hoist 



thin rod or wire and the solder Avorked in the joint. This 
joint should be wiped while still hot and a neat job 
should result. 

Each shaft requires two safety collars (E), Fig. 267. 
They are made of %-inch brass rods which is bored %6 
inch. A 6-32 hole is tapped through the walls of this 
piece. Eight, the number of collars required, 6-32 x Sc- 
inch round head brass screws will be required for these 
collars. 



All Electric Double-Drum Hoist 



333 



The base angles (F), Fig. 268, are merely strips of 
metal shaped as indicated. Their purpose is to hold the 
frame of the hoist to the base. Four are required. Eight 
8-32 X %-inch brass screws with nuts will be needed to 
fasten the angles to the sides. 

The hoist may be mounted on a base with the motors 
or may be fastened permanently with the apparatus it is 





"e/zi?^ 






SP 



V7 



♦Vi-z^A 



^ 



Fig. 269 — (Above). Wiring diagram of the electric hoist 
Fig. 270 — (Below). Arrangement of the traveling hoist 



working, as on the base of a derrick or frame of an ele- 
vator. If mounted separately with motors, as stated 
above, a base of oak, 7 x 10 x % inch, neatly finished with 
beveled edges, will suffice. 

The method of holding the driving gears to the shaft 
of the motor is by removing the pulley from the motor 
-^nd threadina: the shaft with the most convenient size 



334 Model Engineering 

and then slipping the gear on the shaft and locknutting 
it on. If there is a small hole in the gear it may be driven 
on the shaft to a forced fit, which is better than the pre- 
vious method. Almost any type of motor is suitable as 
long as it reverses easily and quickly. 

The wiring diagram is represented in Fig. 269. 
Double pole, double throw switches are ideal for revers- 
ing, although a pole-changing switch may be used if it 
has a dead point, so that the motor can be stopped with- 
out reversing the motor. 

A sketch of one of the many uses to which the hoist 
may be put is represented by the traveling hoist in Fig. 
270. By its use the bucket or" car may be carried to any 
place at any height along the cableway. The arrange- 
ment is frequently seen where excavating is being done. 
The details of the pulleys are not shown, same being left 
to the ingenuity of the reader. At first it will be difficult 
to stop the car in the desired place, but after some ex- 
perience, one becomes quite skilful in its operation. 



CHAPTER XXVI 



A MODEL GASOLENE ENGINE 



Machining the castings — Making the crankshaft — ^The carburetor — • 
Spark plug designs — Ignition. 

The engine has a 1-inch bore and 1-inch stroke. It 
is designed to develop one-eighth horse power but has 
never been put under brake test. The Aveight of the 
engine without flywheel is slightly less than a pound. It 
is sufficiently light and powerful to drive a large model 
airplane or a fast model boat. 

Simplicity marks the design in every particular. It 
is of the two-cycle type and has no valves, but merely a 
by-pass for the exchange of exhaust and fresh gases. 
The carburetor is of the simple mixing valve type which 
may be used with gasolene or even house (illuminating) 
gas merely by an adjustment of the fuel and the air 
supply. 

The motor is air cooled and for ordinary runs no 
fan has l)een found necessary. It is designed primarily 
for portable use in some situation where the movement 
of the boat or airplane creates sufficient draft to cool 
the cylinder. For stationary use, part of the radiating 
flanges might well be turned off and a simple water 
jacket adapted to the cylinder. This could readily be 
done by fitting a piece of aluminum tubing over two of 
the flanges, which would, of course, be turned down to 
make a tight force fit, the intervening flanges being re- 
moved. 

The castings throughout, with the exception of the 
piston, are of magnolite, an alloy having a remarkable 
tensile strength with the light weight of aluminum. This 

335 






•r-l 



CO 

jr 
c 



0- 

o 

to 



A Model Gasolene Engine 337 

metal machines very nicely and the castings come from 
the foundry in a remarkably clean condition. The natu- 
ral color is that of aluminum, and the model, therefore, 
presents a tine appearance Avith but little cleaning up. 
The cylinder casting is bored, of course, and very 
little stock need be taken out. The casting may well be 
held by the radiating flanges in a three- jaw chuck for the 
boring operation. Care should be taken to see that the 
chuck jaws have a good, firm bearing at all points be- 




Fig. 272 — The main parts of the engine machined 

fore attempting the cut. The casting is so clean and 
accurate, however, that ordinary care will insure this. 

The best method is, of course, to bore in the usual 
way with several light cuts, and to finish with a parallel 
reamer. This gives as nearly perfect a job as is possi- 
ble with the tools at the disposal of the average model 
maker. 

The next step is to face the end of the cylinder cast- 
ing at the place where it is to join the crankcase. This 
operation will have to be done cautiously in order to 
prevent a ^ ^ bite. ' ' The casting may then be removed from 
the chuck and mounted upon a Avooden arbor with the 
dead center either passing through the spark plug hole 



338 



Model Engineering 



or, preferably, engaging a center hole in a ping screwed 
into the spark plug opening. 

The turning of the flanges is done while the casting 
is on the arbor. A special tool may be ground for this 
purpose from a piece of self-hardening steel. The con- 
tour is Avell shown in the photographs, while the dimen- 
sions may be taken directly from the sectional drawing, 
Fig. 271. 

The ports and by-pass holes should not be drilled un- 
til the engine is assembled, as these holes must occupy 
certain very important positions in relation to the travel 




Fig. 273 — The complete engine assembled, with ignition apparatus 



of the piston. Aside from filing the port and by-pass 
cover seats, and drilling the holes in the cylinder base 
for holding down screws, the work on the cylinder cast- 
ing may rest at this point for the present. 

The two halves of the crankcase are cast from the 
same pattern. The casting may be held in the three-jaw 
chuck with the jaws gripping the bearing hub. The first 



A Model Gasolene Engine 



339 



operation is to face off the end of the casting. Then may 
come the turning of the interior. This should be finished 
throughout in order to permit the crank to clear by a 
small margin. The hole for the bearing bushing may 
then be bored. The bushing is of brass, turned from 
round stock and forced into the magnolite crankcase cast- 
ing. AVlien both halves have been faced and bored and 
the bearings fitted, the castings may be assembled on a 
piece of steel rod passed through the bushings. With 




rig. 274 — Aluminum aerial propeller constructed for use with the engine 



the halves thus lined up, the screw holes may be drilled 
and tapped and screws inserted. 

The holes in the bushings should have been drilled or 
bored %4 inch under size, and, after the crankcase has 
been assembled, a %-inch reamer should be run through 
the two bushings to insure correct size and absolute 
alignment. Before taking the crankcase apart after this 
finishing operation, the two halves should be filed up at 
the joint so that they may be placed together in exactly 
the same position after the crankshaft has been intro- 
duced. 

The piston is of cast iron and it is packed with three 
rings. The first operation in machining is to grip the 



340 Model Engineering 

casting in the chuck, taking a cut out of the open end, 
and facing oif this end. The casting is then removed 
from the chuck and mounted upon a steel arbor with the 
tailstock center engaging a center hole bored in the small 




Fig. 275 — A close-up view of the timing device and carburetor 

projection that may be noticed in the photograph show- 
ing the engine dissected. 

The outside of the piston may then be turned, the 
finishing cut being taken with a very smooth, round nose 
tool, the feed being slow and the cut very light. The 
speed should, of course, be high in this case. The final 
^^ working in'' finish may be taken with emery cloth and 
oil, the former being of the finest grade. The fit of the 
piston need not be absolute, but it should be so good 
that the piston will sink very slowly to the bottom of the 
cylinder against the air cushion before the packing rings 



A Model Gasolene Engine 



341 



are in. The grooves for the rings are turned with a part- 
ing tool ground square and to the right width. 

The designers attempted to use cast iron piston rings, 
but found that they could not spring this very small 
diameter of ring over the piston without cracking the 
ring. They then turned to cold rolled steel and found 
rings of this material perfectl}^ satisfactory. The stock 
w^as bored out to the correct internal diameter, which is 
just a trifle larger than that of the ring channel in the 
piston. Pieces of exactly the correct width were then 



FILE. FOE 
WRENCH 




I 



;i 



PIPE 



GLf^SS ^BOLT 




WIRE 



MBLV 



rig. 276 — Details of a simple spark plug for the engine 



parted from the stock and each piece or ring split diag- 
onally in the usual manner. The split rings were then 
compressed, one at a time, of course, and gripped on a 
nut arbor constructed for the purpose. Then the out- 
side cut was taken on the compressed ring to make its 
diameter a sliding fit into the cylinder bore. This re- 
sulted in perfectly round packing rings that were sprung 
over the piston and into the grooves in the orthodox 
manner. 

The connecting rod is a magnolite casting drilled at 
the small end for the wrist pin which passes through the 
piston and filed to bear upon the crankpin at the large 
end. A brass strap passes under the crankpin, holding 



342 



Model Engineering 



the latter to the connecting rod bearing. This method is 
perfectly satisfactory, as all of the Avork done by the 
connecting rod is on the down stroke. The strap serves 
merely as a means of holding the connecting rod and 
crankpin together. 

The crankshaft may be a forging, steel casting, or a 
bnilt-up job, or it may be worked ont from the solid if 



J 


L 




PORCELAIN m P 
JACKET— -^Z- 


\ 




MlCrq IN5UmTI0N~A^ 


\ 




^M 






^^M 


ij^^^^P 




STEEL COi^E-'^Sr 


H- 


COPPER 


''^Jl 


1 ^•' ■ 





Fig. 277 — Showing how a standard market spark plug is reconstructed 
for use with the gasolene engine 



the builder has the patience. The built-up crankshaft is 
perhaps the easiest if it is well and properly made. 

The carburetor is a simple mixing valve in which 
either gas or gasolene may be admitted in varying quan- 
tities by means of the two adjusting screws to be seen in 
the illustrations. The fuel valve is of the needle type 
and its opening breaks into the seat of the poppet air 
valve. The latter is limited in its travel by means of the 
adjusting screw in the top of the chamber. 

The prospective builder is advised to refer to any 
two-cycle engine catalogue wherein such a mixing valve 



A 3Iodel Gasolene Engine 343 

will be found illustrated in section, providing the engine 
is one of the low priced marine motors on which no car- 
buretor is used. The device used on this little engine is 
a replica of the mixing valve referred to, only it is per- 
haps less than half the size of the standard ones. 

The timing device for the ignition circuit is simplicity 
itself, but effective withal. It consists merely of a fiber 
ring in which a flush steel setscrew forms the '^ ground'^ 
contact. As the ring rotates the setscrew makes instan- 
taneous contact with the radial brush in the tubular 
holder held by means of an insulating bushing in the 
timer arm. The spark may thus be advanced or retarded 
as the occasion may demand merely by moving the timer 
arm. 

In an early paragraph we referred to the importance 
of having the engine assembled before the ports were 
drilled. With reference to the sectional drawing, the 
reader will note that the by-pass port and the exhaust 
port are exactly in line and open when the piston is at 
the extreme limit of its do^Miward travel. It will also be 
noticed that the exhaust port is slightly larger than the 
upper by-pass port. That is, they are uncovered by the 
piston at this point. The lower port of the by-pass is 
uncovered by the hole in the piston at this point to 
permit the compressed charge in the crankcase to pass 
through the by-pass and into the cylinder against the 
baffle plate. This latter hole is drilled in cylinder and 
piston at the same time to insure alignment. All of these 
holes are open at the extreme doiumvard point. 

As the piston moves upward, compressing the charge 
in the cylinder, all ports are covered by the piston. A 
vacuum is created by the upward stroke in the crank- 
case so that at the extreme upAvard limit of the piston's 
travel a charge of fresh gas mil be drawn into the crank- 
case. In order to permit of this, the inlet port must be 
drilled just below the piston when the latter is all the 



344 Model Engineering 

way up in tlie cylinder. These relations are of the utmost 
importance to the efficient working of the engine. 

A cast iron flywheel is fitted to the niodel. It can 
readily be displaced by an aluminum water or aerial pro- 
peller. A partly finished 14-inch aerial blade is shown in 
Fig. 274. 

The engine is oiled by mixing % pint of good auto- 
mobile cylinder oil with every gallon of gasoline when 
this fuel is used. This mixture is drawn into the crank- 
case and the cylinder on the Suction stroke. The oil en- 
ters as a finely divided spray which does its work most 
effectively. If house gas is used, the oil will have to be 
put into the crankcase where it will splash on the down- 
ward stroke of the piston. The oil level must be kept low 
in this case, as otherwise too great a quantity of oil will 
be drawn into the cylinder through the by-pass and cause 
carbonization, smoky exhaust, and poor combustion. 

The model builder generally finds it difficult to pur- 
chase small spark plugs for model gasolene motors. The 
spark plug shown in the illustration can be made in the 
shop in a very few minutes and will hold up under serv- 
ice for some time. 

The case of the plug is made from a piece of %-inch 
pipe bored out so that a piece of Yiq glass tubing may be 
placed in it. The pipe is filed flat, as shown, so that it 
may be put in place with a wrench. The glass tube is 
first heated and bent into the shape depicted in the 
sketch. This is to prevent it from being forced out of 
the pipe by the pressure developed in the cylinder of the 
gas engine. A slender brass machine screw is arranged 
concentrically within the glass tube. The space between 
the glass tube and the wall of the pipe and the space 
between the machine screw and the glass tube is filled 
with plaster of Paris, which, when thoroughly dried out, 
forms a very good insulating compound. A tiny hole is 
drilled on the lower edge of the pipe and a small piece 



A Model Gasolene Engine 345 

of wire is inserted in this and soldered in place. This is 
arranged in a small loop and the electrical discharge of 
the coil takes place between this and the head of the 
brass machine screw. Another ping suitable for this en- 
gine and which can be easily made is sho^^^l in Fig. 277. 

To make this plug, procure the core or inner member 
of any of the tivo-piece tapered core, mica plugs, such as 
Splitdorf, Benton, Wright or Mosler. Saw off the pro- 
jecting mica and finish off the remainder Avith a file to a 
smooth rounded surface, as shown in the drawing. Then 
insert the wires in holes drilled for that purpose, either 
by shrinking the core over the wire or clinching the wire 
in with a punch. The Avires may be arranged in a variety 
of ways, many of which will suggest themselves to the 
builder. The easiest and simplest would be to fasten 
the wire in the center electrode and bend it so that the 
spark would jump from the Avire directly to the shell. 

Cooling vanes may be cut in the hexagonal portion 
of the shell, if there is enough material, but with a mica 
plug this is unnecessary. 

The only disadvantage is that a large plug must be 
purchased to start Avith; hoAA^ever, the finished plug is 
Avell Avorth it, being every bit as good as the plug from 
Avhich it AA^as made and easier to clean. 

The spark coil for the engine can be purchased in 
the open market or it may be made. A small i/s-inch 
spark coil Avould be sufficient in case the coil is purchased. 
If the coil is made by the builder, it should be so designed 
that it Avill give a small, heavy spark about Yiq inch long. 



CHAPTER XXVII 

A MODEL ELECTKIC LOCOMOTIVE 

The prototype — Construction of the locomotive — ^Its driving motors — 
Finishing the locomotive. 

This interesting locomotive opens a new field of re- 
markable fascination to those interested in railway 
models. Its prototype is the giant dnplex electric engine 
of the Pennsylvania Eailroad, which is of especial in- 




Fig. 278 — The complete electric locomotive of the Pennsylvania type 

terest for its uniqne system of power transmission to 
the wheels. These engines com-prise two identical perma- 
nently conpled sections having two pairs of drivers and 
a fonr-wheeled bogie truck each, and carrying a single 
motor, which is mounted with its shaft transversely of the 

346 




ho 

I 

a 
tub 



348 Model Engineering 

frame, in each unit. From a crank disc on each end of 
the motor shaft, angularly placed connecting rods lead to 
a crank mounted on a jackshaft, Avhich in turn is coupled 
to the drivers by side rods of the type employed on steam 
machines. This construction, unusual in electric locomo- 
tives, makes the model a very attractive one. The model, 
which exhibits exquisite Avorkmanship in its construc- 
tion, measures twenty-eight inches long over all. 

Fig. 279 gives complete dimensions and details of the 
engine units, the two units being, of course, identical in 




Pig. 280 — The locomotive chassis, showing the driving motors and the 
method of gearing them to the drivers 

every particular. The main frames are cast of brass or 
bronze, in one piece with the axle boxes, jackshaft bear- 
ings, and bearing blocks for the shaft corresponding to 
the armature of the driving motor in the prototype. No 
difficulty is likely to be experienced in finishing these 
parts, aside from the necessity of obtaining perfect paral- 
lelism of all the shaft bearings, in order to insure the 
easy working of the connecting rods. This method of 
construction greatly simplifies the model, and while it 
provides no springing whatsoever, attempts to employ 
spring suspension have never proven particularly suc- 
cessful in a model of this size, since it unduly stiffens the 
engine, and springs are undoubtedly^ best dispensed with. 
The wheels are of cast iron and are similar to those 
employed in steam-driven designs. The jackshaft cranks 
.should be carefully counterbalanced. In quartering the 



A Model Electric Locomotive 349 

crankpins of these members the same method was used 
as was employed in the construction of the Pacific type 
of steam locomotive described in Chapter XXVIII, which 
greatly simplified this work. The wheels were first 
mounted on their axles in approximately their correct 
positions and then a U-shaped jig is placed over the 
wheels and the crankpin holes drilled exactly 90 degrees 
apart, insuring that the cranks will be in their correct 
relation when the side rods are fitted. The bogies are 
simple four wheel trucks very similar to that of the 
Pacific engine, and need no further explanation. The 
side rods can be cast of brass or gunmetal or worked out 
from the solid piece, and present no particular difficul- 
ties. The brake rigging may be simply dummy or actu- 
ally operative, and small solenoids may even be fitted to 
give electro-magnetic brake control of the engine. A 
small bolt with coil springs as cushions is used to couple 
the two sections. 

The cabs are made of sheet brass, well braced and 
soldered, and spring over the platform of the base. They 
carry the searchlights, which may be fitted with small 
flashlamp bulbs, small dummy pantographs, which, in 
the large engines, are used in yard switching where over- 
head contact is necessary, the bells, and ventilating hoods. 
The windows may be either of glass or mica. The finish 
is in black and gold, identical with the large Pennsylvania 
No. 30, and the lettering is easily done with small paper 
letters pasted on the cab. Fitting the cowcatchers and 
end platform railings completes the model. 

A number of arrangements of driving motors were 
experimented with by the builder, starting with tripolar 
permanent field motors driving crown gears with a re- 
duction of five to one, the object being to reverse the 
engine by changing the polarity of the exterior track 
connections. The gear reduction proved insufficient, 
however, and a worm and pinion combination giving a 



850 



Model Engineering 



forty to one reduction was attempted. This arrangement 
may be seen in the photograph of the engine with the 
€abs removed. While possessing great power, the re- 
duction was here too great, and the proper sohition to 
the problem seems to consist either of a combination of 
worm and spur gearing to give a higher speed, or, if one 
can be secured, a double thread worm and forty tooth 



f " 


m -^ 




• 






t 


1^^ 


B O'l 

l»E W N S rLVANf* 






sr^s^» 




^'^^ 


™ mtm 


la^ 




mr 


*^irr 





Fig. 281 — Side view of the electric locomotive 



pinion giving a twenty to one reduction. The permanent 
magnet motors were not an unqualified success, and it 
is undoul)tedly advisable to abandon the directly reversi- 
ble feature and employ standard motors of either 110 
volt or battery types. There is ample room in the cab 
for any arrangement that may be desired. The current 
collecting mechanism, of course, depends upon the dis- 
position of the third rail. 



CHAPTER XXVIII 

A MODEL STEAM LOCOMOTIVE 
The locomotive 's prototype — General design — Construction — Fittings. 

The model described is of a Delaware, Lackawanna 
& Western, Pacific type, passenger locomotive, built by 
the Lackawanna Railroad about June, 1913. At that 
time it Avas the largest passenger engine of its type in the 
Avorld, the engine alone weighing 284,000 lbs. and the 




Fig. 282 — The Lackawanna locomotive 



tender 165,700 pounds in working order, and having a 
capacity of 14 tons of coal and 8,000 gallons of water. 

The construction of the model is started with the 
main frames, which were made of %6-inch cold rolled 
steel, drilled, filed and sawed out to represent the usual 
bar frame of American practice. Although this frame 
of %6-inch thickness seems excessive, it furnishes an ex- 
cellent foundation for the valve gear frame and cylinder 
saddle. This heavy framing only extends about an inch 

351 



352 Model Engineering 

behind the rear driving wheel axle box. From here to 
the end of the frame is only % inch in thickness, the rear 
end being tied by a brass casting and the forward end 
by the cylinder castings which embrace the frame, as 
shown in front view of engine. 

The next step to be taken is the axle boxes ; these are 
of brass and have ample bearing surfaces, being no less 
than %6 inch wide. The compensating spring hangers 
and brackets are built on these axle boxes, as shown in 
Fig. 284. 

The trailing truck comes next. This has an inde- 
pendent framing of %-inch cold rolled steel, connecting 



r' 




Fig. 283— The locomotive mounted upon its testing stand 

cast axle boxes at each side and pivoted just in back of 
rear driver. The weight is carried and sprung on a sort 
of U-shaped hinge. The spring is held at the rear end 
by a bracket bolted to the main frame and the forward 
end by a hanger connected to an equalizing lever an- 
chored to the main frame by pin. The forward truck is 
the ordinary equalizing lever type, which needs no fur- 
ther explanation. 

The wheels are all of cast iron, the drivers being 2% 
inches in diameter, trailing wheels V^^Aq inches diameter, 
and front truck wheels 1%6 inches diameter. In quarter- 
ing the driving wheels for the crankpins, a novel method 



354 Model Engineering 

was used which proved very successful. The wheels were 
first taken in hand, bolted to the face plate, rough turned, 
centered and drilled i/4 inch for axle. The axles were 
turned between centers out of large enough material to 
provide for turning all over to % inch diameter. Then 
the shoulders were turned to ^ inch; a driving fit for 
driver-wheels which are now driven on to axles with the 
crankpin bases as near 90 degrees apart as possible. 
To drill the holes for the crankpins, a jig was made, as 
shown by the drawing; and when the holes are drilled 
and pins fitted, it will be found that there is nothing to 
be done in the way of fitting side rods, as everything will 
work out absolutely corerct. The crankpin for the main 
driving wheel is extended beyond the driving rod for the 
return crank of the valve motion. 

The cylinders are cast of gunmetal, as in the original 
engine, in halves, and bolted together at the center. 
Steam is distributed by a piston valve with inside admis- 
sion. The piston valve has no exhaust lap and very little 
lead is given to steam admission. The piston valve is 
first ground in and then grooves turned in and packed 
with a graphite steam packing which wears very well and 
furnishes lubrication for the valve chamber. This pack- 
ing was found necessary owing to the fact that when the 
engine was put under steam for the first time, the steam 
would blow through the valve as soon as lubrication was 
gone, in spite of the fact that air tanks at the side are 
displacement lubricators. The piston valve rod has a 
guide and crosshead, as shown on plan and elevation. 
Crosshead and crosshead guides are machined from cold 
rolled steel, and the guides are held in position by a 
bracket fastened to the valve link frame, making a very 
rigid construction. The method of fixing crosshead 
guides is always a vexing problem. These guides are 
threaded at one end and screAved into the back cylinder 
head, then held apart the proper distance by a bracket 



A Model Steam Locomotive 355 

which is made from one piece of cold rolled steel, and 
suspended from the valve link frame. The cylinders are 
also provided with release valves. These are ball valves 
and are released b}" moving the release rod backward or 
forward, the valves working on a taper. 

The valve motion is the full Walchaerts valve gear- 
ing, brought down absolutely to scale and actuating the 
valve perfectly. Eccentric rod, valve rod, combination 
lever and crosshead union link are all made of Germaix 
silver; valve rods and piston rods are also of the same 
material. The valve link is made of cold rolled steel, 
case hardened. Eeversing of the engine is done by means 
of the bell crank lifting valve rod up or down in the link, 
as the case may be, and is operated by screw reverse 
in cab. 

The boiler is built on the well-known and tried 
Smithies principle. The boiler proper is built of copper 
tubing 2% inches diameter and 514-inch copper water 
tubes put into the boiler, as shown in the elevation. The 
back and front plates are of cast gunmetal. The front 
plate also has a throttle valve casing cast on it and is of 
the sliding type, working on the inside of the steam col- 
lecting tube. Steam is supplied to the cylinders by sepa- 
rate steam pipes. Each steam pipe leaves the valve 
casting, goes to the back of boiler, to firebox, returning 
to smoke box and then to cylinder by way of outside 
steam pipes. The boiler shell is built of Russian iron 
plate and well lagged on the inside with -sheet asbestos. 
Both domes ^re dummies. The boiler fittings comprise 
Avater gauge, pressure gauge, check valve, blower valve, 
whistle bell, safety valve and Westinghouse air pump on 
left side. The blower is quite a novel idea which was 
gained from Mr. Wardlaw, the builder of the prize-win- 
ning fire engine at the last Model Engineer Exhibition 
and pictured in the frontispiece. Ordinarily, it is diffi- 
cult to sret the blower to blow true to the center of stack. 



356 Model Engineering 

but here it is quite a simple matter. The blower pipe is 
brought along underneath boiler and connected by union 
to the blower nozzle at the base of the exhaust pipe, 
which at one operation brings blower in true line with the 
stack. Eeference to the drawing will bring this to view 
more plainly. 



CHAPTER XXIX 

A MODEL GYROSCOPE RAILROAD 

The actions of gyroscopes — Design and construction of the car — Elec- 
trically propelled gyroscope — Rails. 

♦ 

Many model makers have probably often wisbed they 
could construct a small gyroscope railroad, but owing to 
the scarcity of literature on the subject of practical gy- 
roscopic balancing, they hesitated to start work upon the 
project. The writer has spent considerable time upon 
this particular study and has developed and constructed 
a small monorail car which maintains almost perfect 
equilibrium and presents few difficulties in building. 
Several original features are incorporated in the design 
of the gyroscope used. 

Although a gyroscope completely obeys the laws of 
gravity, its action is very mysterious to the layman and 
a few words on the subject will probably be welcomed 
before the actual construction of the car is taken up. 
Reference is made to Figs. 285 and 286, which will assist 
in explaining some of the principles involved. A gyro- 
scope may be described as a rapidly revolving w^heel 
which resists any tendenc}^ to change its plane of rota- 
tion. In Fig. 286 the gyroscope is mounted so that the 
axis of rotation (A B) is vertical, while the axis of pre- 
cession is transversal to the line of support (CD). As 
long as the gyroscope remains in a perfectly vertical po- 
sition, its plane of rotation Avill continue to be vertical. 
If it is tilted as shown in Fig. 285, however, the gyroscope 
will have a noticeable tendency to dip, and this is called 
^^ precession.'' This peculiar action of the gyroscope 
can be used to advantage in balancing a car by means of 

S57 



358 



Model Engineering 



a ^'precession fork.'' The idea of tlie precession fork is 
to enforce increased precession npon the axis A B the 
instant the car does not stand vertical npon the rail. In- 
creasing the precession in the direction in which the gy- 




Fig. 285— Showing the procession of a gyroscope in the direction indicated 

by the arrows 

roscope tends to precess will create a new torque in the 
direction of the vertical and at the same time the axis 
A B will tnrn back to a vertical position. If the forced 
precession, which the gyroscope actually stores up within 
itself, is not sufficient, the car will tip over, and if this 




C D 

Fig. 286 — The gyroscope mounted so that its axis of rotadoi. 



3rtical 



precession is too great, the car will right itself too quickly 
and fall to the other side before the gyroscope returns 
to the position necessary to maintain equilibrium. Fric- 
tion is the factor which produces the forced precession, 
therefore the coefficient of friction must not remain con- 



A Model Gyroscope Railroad 359 

slant and the proper metal to use on the precession fork 
must be found. 

The general constructional details of the car and 
gyroscope will now be treated. The body and base of 
the car is made of wood, although the base can be made 
of light metal if the builder so desires. The top is made 
of tin and is provided with small ventilators. A small 



rig. 287 — The model gyro-car balancing itself upon a wire 

headlight is also arranged on the front, and this need 
not only be ornamental, but can be supplied with current 
from the source that drives the car. The windows of the 
car can be made from glass or thin mica, which is easier 
to cut and looks just as good as glass. The wheels, of 
course, are made with a double flange, as they will slide 
off a single rail if made in the usual manner. The trucks 
are shown in detail in Fig. 290 and the reader is cau- 
tioned to mount them exactly in the center of the plat- 
form, r lerwise, the car will not be balanced properly 
and gyroscope wdll be called upon to work harder 

than would otherwise be necessary. 

Especial attention is drawn to the method of mount- 
ing the motor. The necessity of making the driving 
truck a compact unit will be readily seen, as this must 
be done so that the car will be able to turn curves. If 
the motor was mounted on the floor of the car, it would 



360 Model Engineering 

be a very difficnlt matter to arrange the driving mechan- 
ism so that the truck would be flexible enough to turn 
curves. If it is mounted in the manner shown, no trouble 
will be experienced. The worm gear reduction will de- 
pend largely upon the speed of the motor. The entire 
frame of the truck can be bent into shape from heavy 
gauge brass and either riveted or soldered. The cradle 
for the motor will have to be placed a little to one side, 
and while great effort should be made to balance the car 
by placing everything on board in a central position, an 
exception will have to be made in this case. The car can 




rig. 288 — The model gyro-car balancing itself upon a single rail 

be counterbalanced with small lead weights after it is 
completed. The other truck of the car is made exactly 
like the driving truck, with the exception that no pro- 
vision is made for the motor. 

The arrangement of the gyroscopic apparatus is 
clearly shown in the sketch. The gyroscope is driven 
with a motor which has a speed of at least 4,000 E.P.M. 
The motor shaft is connected directly to the gyroscope 
and both the gyroscope and motor are mounted in a 
gimbal so that the gyroscope is free to move in any di- 
rection parallel to the motion of the car; that is, either 
backward or forward. The axle of the gyroscope is 
placed between the precession forks and these are cut 



A Model Gyroscope Railroad 



361 



from sheet brass. They are mounted on two small posts. 
The clearance between the axle of the gyroscope and 
the precession fork should be very small, and yet the 
gyroscope should in no way be hindered from revolving 




Fig. 289 — The motor used to spin the gyroscope 



with absolute freedom. The gyroscope and all its parts 
should be well lubricated with a very thin machine oil. 

Owing to the fact that small gyroscopes cannot bal- 
ance a weight of over two pounds, the possibility of driv- 
ing a car two feet long with dry batteries becomes very 
remote. By arranging an improvised trolley on this 
model, quite a heavy current can be carried to the motors 
without any addition in weight. To do this, a Avire is 
suspended directly over the rail or wire upon w^hich the 
car is to run. Each wire is connected to the source of 
current and the current is led into the car by a small 
cord which runs to a little pulley or trolley that runs 
along the copper wire. An ordinary trolley cannot be 
used, as this would tend to prevent the car from tipping 
and the gyroscopic effect would be lost. The small flexi- 



362 



Model Engineering 




A Model Gyroscope Railroad 



363 



ble cord permits the gyroscope to do its work, and in 
this manner milimited power may be provided for the 
motors. If it is desired to run the car on a rail in place 
of a suspended wire, a method of making rails from 




Fig. 291 — Top of the gyroscope, showing the precession fork 

hea\y wire and mounting them on ties is shown in the 
drawing. In making cars of this type, the following facts 
should he kept in mind by the builder : 

The center of gravity should be kept as low as pos- 
sible. 



GYEOSCOPE 




smFT 

LtflP^NCEl OIO" 
BflLL BElrlRlNGS 



AXI5 Of 
PRECESSION 



Fig. 292 — Details of the gyroscope 



The car should be perfectly balanced. 

The weight should be reduced to a minimum. 

If these instructions are carefully carried out the 



364^ 



Model Engineering 



builder shonld have no trouble in producing a successful 
gyroscope model. 

If the car is run on a rail in place of a wire, the trol- 
ley wire will be suspended in a different manner and a 
different type of trolley will have to be used also. This 
is necessary because the trolley must be supported by 
poles and the trolley used on the single wire cannot get 




Fig. 293 — How rail joints are made, using heavy wire as the rail 



past the wire supports. In this case, an ^'L^' shaped 
trolley can be employed so that the trolley wire supports 
can be fastened to one side of the trolley wire. 

By use of the heavy wire for the rail, a large railroad 
can be built with very little ^cost. A rheostat can be used 
in the motor circuits so the builder can control the speed 
of the car at will. 



CHAPTER XXX 



A MODEL CATERPILLAR TANK 



Framework of the tank — Tractors — Driving motors and gearing — Eeel 
for feed cable — Covering the tank. 

The construction of a model tank that limbers along 
nncler its ovm power just as the big fellows do offers a 
very interesting project for the model maker. 

The framework of the tank is made almost completely 
of wood. The construction is started by cutting out the 
two side pieces from i^-inch stock. At the widest point 
these pieces measure 9 inches and they are 25 inches 
overall in length. The shape of these sides can be seen 
by referring to Fig. 294, which shows the side of the 
tank. The drawing is not dimensioned, as it is believed 
most builders would alter the design to suit their oAvn 
tastes and that the general directions would suffice. If 
the builder desires to make the tank exactly as shoA\Ti, 
however, he should not experience any trouble, as the 
various parts can be proportioned in accordance with 
the dimensions given for the two side pieces. The proper 
size of the various parts can also be seen from the draw- 
ings, as they have been made exactly in proportion. 

After the side pieces have been cut and trimmed up 
^\ith a wood rasp, several cleats are nailed to their inner 
sides. The shape and position of these cleats is shoA\Ti 
very clearly by the dotted lines in the drawing of the 
side of the tank. These cleats serve two purposes. They 
are used to nail the crosspieces to and they are also used 
to* offer better bearing support to the wooden rollers that 
carry the belt. The crosspieces are nailed in place as 
sho^\Ti. A large board is nailed to the bottom of the two 

365 



366 



Model Engineering 



cleats that run along the lower end of the tank from the 
big driving pnlley in the back to the large pnlley located 
near the front at the bending point of the belt. This 




Fig. 294 — Details of the model tank 



large board acts as a floor and support. The other 
\irosspieces act merely as braces. 

The rollers are made next and several different sizes 
are needed, as will be seen. Twenty of the small rollers 
will be used and these should not be under one inch in 
length— their length should be just equal to the width 
of the belt used. The pulley or rollers measure 11/2 inches 
in diameter and they may be cut or sawed from a single 
piece of the proper size. If the builder does not have 
access to a wood-turning " lathe, the rollers may be ob- 
tained from a planing mill. The bigger rollers are pro- 



A Model Caterpillar Tank 



367 



vided with flanges which keep the belt in the proper po- 
sition, tlie smaller rollers merely acting as supports. 
The small rollers are held in place by i/4-inch cold roll 
rods provided with a thread at one end and a hole at 
the other through which a cotter pin passes to prevent 
the roller from slipping off. The threaded end of the 
rod is turned down so that there will be a shoulder. A 



ITli »■'■ N ' 




Fig. 295 — The model tank with the sides removed 



small washer is placed over the threaded end of the rod, 
and this conies to rest against the shoulder. The rod is 
then placed in the hole in the wooden side and a nut 
screwed on the opposite side. This holds the rod rigidly 
in place and the roller can then be put in position and 
locked there by means of the cotter pin. It is understood,, 
of course, that the rollers should be permitted to revolve 
freely and Avith a minimum of friction. The large rollers 
are not held in this manner. In place of the small rod 
that acts as a bearing for the smaller rollers, a rod runs 
from one side of the tank to the other, protruding at each 
side. These rods should not be smaller than % inch, and, 
with the exception of the main driving roller on the back 
of the tank, they are held in place by means of a cotter 
pin and washer. 

The tractors of the machine are made from two 
lengths of one-inch leather belt. Small wooden blocks 
are fastened to the belts bv means of nails or brads. The 



368 



Model Engineering 



blocks can be nailed close together or spaced a short dis- 
tance apart. If desired, the nails can be of such a length 
that they will protrnde a short distance on the opposite 
sides of the blocks so the tractors will obtain a better 
grip on the surface the tank is traveling on. 

The driving units will now be considered. The driv- 
ing rods are provided with large gear wheels which are 
driven by worms on the motor shafts. It will be seen that 
each of the large driving rollers are provided with a 
separate shaft and the ends of these are both supported 




Fig. 296 — The rear of the tank with the cover removed to show the 
mounting of the driving motors 



by the one-inch wooden strip that runs from the motors 
to the crosspiece on the back of the tank. In order to 
steer the tank and to avoid complications in the driving 
mechanism, two separate motors are used; one for each 
tractor. The speed reduction given by the worm drive 
on the model the writer constructed was 40 to 1. Of 
course, this will not hold true in every case, as the re- 



ii 



A Model Caterpillar Tank 



369 



duction necessary will depend entirely npon the speed of 
the motors. The motors are connected to the driving 
shafts by means of a knuckle or improvised universal 
joint. This is quite necessary to prevent binding and 
constant readjustment of the bearings, as the wooden 
supports are not capable of holding themselves rigidly 
in place and will therefore cause trouble. This universal 




Fig. 297— The reel and commutator device for the feed cables of the 

model tank 



joint is very simple and merely consists of a pin or ^Hee'^ 
on the motor shaft proper running in a U-shaped piece 
on the driving shaft. The photograph shows this ar- 
rangement clearly, as well as the method of mounting 
the motors in the cradle and clamping them down. 

The tank is now ready to be covered with galvanized 
iron. Two pieces are first cut to cover the sides. These 
are drilled full of small holes arranged systematically. 



370 



Model Engineering 



Small rivets are then placed in the holes and hammered 
down. The top is covered in the same manner. If the 
hnilder desires, he can arrange the guns on the sides and 
front. To carry the model nearer to perfection, it can 



<H 




Fig. 298 — Wiring diagram of the motors and controlling rheostats 

be daubed with various colored paints to represent 
camouflage. 

Being that the driving motors of the tank obtain their 
power from the lighting circuit, it will be necessary to 
have the tank pull its feed cables with it. An arrange- 
ment devised by the builder is shown in Fig. 297. Two 
50-foot flexible cords are wound up on an especially con- 




Fig. 299 — Drawing showing how the tank appears when completely- 
assembled 



structed reel. This reel is provided with four copper 
rings and brushes so that the current can pass into the 
cables while the reel is revolving. Mounted on the board 
with the reel are two small rheostats, one for each motor. 
By varying the speed of the motors, the tank can be 
steered nicely. If one motor is stopped, the tank will 
pivot itself and turn very shortly. 



A Model Caterpillar Tank 371 

The ingenious builder will readily see the possibility 
of mounting a small caliber gun in one of the gun turrets 
and actuating it by means of a solenoid and plunger. The 
plunger is attached directly to the trigger of the gun. 
If blank cartridges are used, a very realistic effect can 
be had. The feed wires for the solenoid can be carried 
on the same reel that holds the wires for the motors. 



CHAPTER XXXI 



A MODEL SIEGE GUIT 



Machine work on the gun — Construction of the wooden wheels — Finishing- 

the gun. 

The barrel of the gun is to be considered first. This 
measures 13^%6 inches long over all. It has a bore of 
% inch and is 2i/4 inches in diameter, at its largest point. 
The barrel should be turned out from a piece of 2i/^-inch 
cold rolled steel and is tapered as shown in the draAving. 
The breech of the gun measures 1% inches outside diam- 
eter and this tapers to IY2 inches at the center of the 
gun. From this point it tapers from 1% inches to Wiq 
inch at the muzzle. After the barrel is turned to the 
proper shape and dimensions it is bored out and reamed. 
^AHiile the original model is rifled, the builder is not ad- 
vised to do this unless he is especially qualified to ac- 
complish the operation, as it requires great skill and 
elaborate equipment. The gun, of course, can be fired 
without being rifled and rifling adds no great value to 
the finished model. 

The hole for the breech mechanism is made next by 
boring a hole ^%6 inch, drilling transversely through the 
barrel of the gun, as shown in the sketch. After this hole 
is drilled, it is finished square on one side by means of a 
file. The rear end of the barrel is left open and the hole 
is slightly beveled on the edges to permit the free en- 
trance of the shell. After the muzzle is turned and 
drilled, it should be polished with fine carborundum cloth. 

The breech mechanism is made next and this is very 
simple, consisting merely of a solid piece of cold rolled 
steel cut to the dimensions shown. This is inserted in 
the transverse hole through the breech of the gun after 

372 



A Model Siege Gun 



373 



the shell has been put in place. The handle shown actu- 
ates a small eccentric which is turned after the breech 
is in place and engages with a small groove cut in the in- 
side of the barrel. 



The method of making this locking 




Fig. 300 — The model siege gun completely assembled and elevated at 

45 degrees 



arrangement is shown in the detail drawing. A small 
plate which covers this mechanism is sawed from a piece 
of 1-inch cold rolled steel and fixed to the breech with 
small screAvs. A small hook, with a thread at one end, 
is then made and screwed to the breech. This is used to 
hold the chain, the other end of which is attached to the 



374( Model Engineering 

eye bolt on the lower end of the carriage frame. The 
handle or wrench which is nsed on the locking arrange- 
ment is cnt from cold rolled steel or brass and has a 
square hole in it which fits over the shaft of the eccen- 
tric. Owing to the peculiar shape of the breech, it will 
be impossible to do any of the work on the lathe. It 
would not be found difficult, however, to form this by 
other means, as with careful filing and grinding it can 
be accurately made. The supporting shafts should now 
be fitted to the sides. These measure % inch in diameter 
and they may be threaded and screwed in place by drill- 
ing and tapping a hole in the barrel to receive them. 

Although the sighting mechanism is not essential, it 
adds greatly to the general appearance of the weapon, 
and it is not difficult to construct. A small, sharp-pointed 
pin is inserted midway on the barrel between the muzzle 
and the breech. The other part of the sight is attached 
to the extreme rear of the barrel and consists of a small 
scale arranged to slide vertically and provided with a 
small set screw, by means of which it can be adjusted to 
various heights. On the top of the scale there is filed a 
small notch, by means of which it is possible to sight the 
gun with the pin in the middle of the barrel. 

The carriage of the gun will be considered next. This 
can be made either of cold rolled steel or brass, as the 
builder desires. The sides of the carriage can be made 
up nicely from %-inch brass plate and the edges should 
be bent at right angles and drilled as shown. The two 
sides of the frame are held together with two cross bars 
of cold rolled steel which are bolted in place. The end 
of the frame which rests upon the ground is cut as shown, 
and covered with sheet brass or steel, bent to the same 
shape as the end of the frame pieces. A small hole is 
drilled in the slfeet brass which runs across the back of 
the frame to provide for a chain, Avhich prevents the gun 
from flinching. If a shaper is at hand, the frame pieces 



A Model Siege Gun 



375 




< 5 



376 Model Engineering' 

can be made from cold rolled steel measuring 1^ inches 
X % inch. X 11 inches. Although this will make a very 
isnbstantial piece of work, there is no objection to the use 
of brass, as the whole gun is painted black after it is 
made. Two small folding steps are placed on each side 
of the gun and attached to these is a small steel rod 
which drops to a vertical position when the step is raised 
and thus holds it in place. These steps are used when 
the gun is being loaded and not when the barrel is being 
adjusted, as many would think. 

The elevating screw, which is used to adjust the 
range of the gun, is next made and this is actuated by the 
handles that appear on each side of the carriage. Each 
handle is attached to two separate shafts, at the opposite 
end of which is fixed a small beveled gear. These two 
gears on the small shafts engage with a larger beveled 
gear that is fixed to the elevating screw. As the^e han- 
dles are turned around, the barrel of the gun can either 
be raised or lowered, depending upon the direction in 
which the handles are turned. Although the elevating 
mechanism on the original model is somewhat elaborate, 
the builder can alter the design to suit his own desires, 
as this motion can be very easily produced by a more 
simple method. One end of the elevating screw is at- 
tached to a rod which runs from that point to the middle 
of the bearing supports, where it is fixed to a rod which 
runs across the carriage. This rod is free to move with 
a vertical motion as the gun is raised or lowered. 

The bearing supports are cut from cold rolled steel, 
and unless they are made accurately the barrel of the 
gun will not move freely. The bearing supports con- 
sist of two separate parts. The part upon which the 
barrel actually rests is bolted to the frame of the car- 
riage and the other part consists merely of a small piece 
which slips over the lower piece of the support and pre- 
vents the shaft from slipping out of place. This is quite 



A Model Siege Gun 



377 




«2 



ho 
in 



-„Z >* 



378 



Model Engineering 




A Model Siege Gun 379 

a difficult part of the gun to produce and there woukl be 
no objection to making an ordinary bearing to take its 
place. 

The shaft for the wheels is now put in place and the 
bearings for these are bolted to the upper end of the 
'carriage frame. The Avheels are made out of wood and 
this can easily be done by cutting two semicircular rim 
pieces Avith a coping saw. The spokes are cut from oak, 
and one end is made to fit in the hub, and holes are drilled 
in the two rim pieces to receive the other end of the 
spokes. Before the spokes are put in place, the holes 
should be filled with a good grade of carpenters' glue. 
After this is done the periphery of the wheel is wound 
with wire and is left in this way until the glue is firmly 
set. A small brass bearing is then inserted in the hub 
and a thin strip of sheet iron is placed around the periph- 
ery of the wheel to act as a rim. The rim can be made 
of the proper diameter, after which it is brought to a 
red heat and burned on to the wooden wheel. Two small 
bushings placed on the wheel shaft prevent the wheels 
from sliding out of their place. Attached to the back 
end of the carriage is a small scale which drops into po- 
sition when the gun is being fired. This is graduated in 
millimeters. Directly under the wheel shaft there is an- 
other scale graduated in the same manner, which also 
drops into position when the gun is fired. These scales 
are used to bring the gun back to its proper position after 
it flinches upon being fired. The forward scale is held 
in place with a hook and this hook releases it and it drops 
in a vertical position. 

This completes the gun, and after all parts are pol- 
ished it can be painted a dull black, which gives the fin- 
ished model a very business-like appearance. The paint 
should have no gloss in it, as this would detract from 
the appearance of the model. 



INDEX 

A 

PAGE 

Abrasive wheels, bond of . . * 96 

elastic . . ■ 97 

grit of 95 

mounting of 98 

mounting of jewelers' 90 

rubber . . . ■. .98 

selection of 90 

silicate ' . . ^ 97 

speed of 96 

vitrified 97 

Airplane engine, six-cylinder rotary 196 

three-cylinder rotary 187 

Alcohol burner, for model boiler 271 

for soft soldering 75 

Attachments for lathe . . . . ■ 29 

B 

Back rest for lathe 56 

Bar, boring and tool , . 44 

Belts, lacing of 31 

Boat, a model lake freighter 260-265 

a Sharpie-type model 266-272 

Boilers, convection currents in . . . 216 

evaporative power of 216 

flash 228, 184-186, 189-192 

marine 220 

models of different types 215-228 

riveting of 218 

Scott type 225 

semi-flash 220-225 

silver soldering end plates of '80 

single flue . 217 

steam 215 

waterback for 222 

with super-heater coil 223 

Bond of abrasive wheels 96-97 

Boom for model crane 326 

Boring 44 

Boring bar and tool 4.4 

381 



382 Index 

PAGE 

Boring cylinders 44 

Buckets, rotor for steam turbine 202 

Burner, alcohol for soft soldering 75 

double gasolene for flash steam plant 172 

gasolene for flash steam plant 169 

C 

Cabinet, tool .21 

for small lathe . . . 61 

Case hardening 84 

furnace for 86 

packing material for 88 

Castings, making 102 

Caterpillar tank, a model 365-371 

Centers of lathe 51 

Check valve for model boilers . . • 237 

Cleansing solutions for electro-plating 131 

Clearance of lathe tools ., 36 

Cocks, water 234-236 

Composition of silver solder 78-81 

Convection currents in model boilers 216 

Core box for patterns 118 

Core prints 116 

Countershaft for lathe 322 

Crane, model 322-329 

Crankcase, for model twin-cylinder Westinghouse steam engine. . 142 
Crankshafts, mounting in lathe . . _ 40 

turning of .39 

Currents, convection in model boilers . 216 

Cylinders, boring of 44 

D 

Draft of patterns 105-107 

Drill, names of various parts 67 

pad for lathe 57 

proper grinding of .67 

Drilling, lubrication for 71 

marking holes for ....'. 66 

on lathe 36 

Drills and drilling 65-71 

projDer speed of o . . 70 

E 

Elastic abrasive wheels 97 

Electric locomotive, model of 346 

model Pennsylvania 346-350 



PAGE 

Electrodes, copper, silver, nickel for electro-plating .... 129 

Electro-plating 126-134 

cleansing solution for 131 

electrodes for copper, silver, nickel 129 

explanation of 126 

hints 133 

pickle for copper, brass and German silver 132 

pickle for iron and steel 132 

polishing and finishing work 134 

solution for deposition of copper 130 

solution for deposition of silver 130 

vat 128 

Engine 142 

flash steam 175 

foui'-cylinder steam 184 

steam, slide crank 135-139 

twin-cj'linder steam 140-146 

two-cylinder marine 153-166 

Evaporative power of model boilers 216 

F 

Face plate for lathe • . . 56 

Fillets for patterns 123 

Fittings, model boiler 231-241 

Flash boiler, for four-cylinder steam engine 184-186 

for three-cylinder rotary engine 189-192 

Flash steam engine, four-cylinder 175-186 

Flash steam plants, explanation of 168-174 

gas burner for 169 

Flux for soft soldering 73, 77 

Four-cylinder steam engine 175-186 

flash boiler for •. 184-186 

Freighter, model lake 260-265 

Furnace for case hardening 86 

G 

Gas engine, model . 336-345 

Gauge, small pressure, for model boilers 239-241 

Gears, screw-cutting on lathe 49 

Glasses, water, for model boilers . . 238 

Globe valves for model boilers 237 

Grinding disc, for lathe 58 

for polishing head 93 

Grinding head, wheels for 89 

small 89 



384 Indeoj 



PAGE 

Grinding lathe tools 34 

Grinding wheels, bond of . . . 96-98 

elastic 97 

grit of 95 

mounting of 98 

restoring surface of 98 

rubber 98 

silicate 97 

speed of ... 96 

vitrified .97 

Grit of abrasive wheels . 95 

Gun, model siege 372-379 

Gyroscope, action of . . . . . 357 

H 

Hard soldering 78 

outfit for 78 

Hardening, case 84-88 

Hardening and tempering steel 82-88 

Hoist, model 330-334 

Hull for model record-breaking hydroplane 242-246 

Hull for radio controlled submarine ........ 284 

Hydroplane, model record-breaking 242-259 

model record-breaking, engine for 248-259 

model record-breaking, flash boiler for . . . . . 246-247 
model record-breaking, hull for 242-246 

I 

Interior thread cutting 51 

Internal lathe work ...*........ 43 

J 

Jewelers ' abrasive wheels, mounting of . . . ... . . 90 

Jig for forming turbine buckets 213 

K 

Knurling ....... 37-38 

hand . . 38 

machine 37 

tool, position of .• 38 

L 

Lacing belts . . ... 31 

Lackawanna locomotive, model of . . . . . . . 351-356 



Indcoj 385 

PAGE 

Lake freighter, model of . . o • c . . . . . 260-265 

Lap board 93 

Lathe, back rest for 56 

cabinet for small 61 

center of ' 51 

countershaft for 31 

drill pad for 57 

face-plate for 56 

grinding disc for 58 

lead hammer for 58 

lead screw of . . . 49 

method of driving .28 

position of 30 

requirements of, for spinning •. . 42 

screw cutting gears of 49 

selection of ... 26 

setting up of . 30 

tool, clearance of 36 

tools, grinding of 34 

taols, positive and negative rake of 34 

work . . . *. 25-64 

work, internal 43 

Lead screw on lathe 49 

Lubrication for drilling 71 



M 

^Machine knurling . . . . • 37 

Marine boilers •. . . . . . 220 

Marine engine, crankshaft . • 164 

two-cylinder 153-167 

Melting point of silver solder 79 

Metal spinning 41 

"Metal turning, elementary 33 

tools 33 

Model boiler fittings 231-241 

Model boilers, all types 215-230 

single-flue 217 

with super-heater 223 

Model caterpillar tank 365-371 

reel for 299 

Model crane 322-329 

boom for 326 

Model electric locomotive 346 

Model engineer's workshop 15-24 



386 Indecc 



PAGE 



Model gas engine . . . . ' . „ . , . . . . 336 
spark plug for .......... 341-342 

Model gasoline engine . . . 336-345 

spark plug for 344-345 

Model gyroscope, action of 357 

car 357-364 

railroad 357 

railroad, rails for . . . . 364 

Model hoist, double-drum electric 330-334 

Model Lackawanna locomotive 351 

Model lake freighter 260-265 

Model Sharpie-type boat o - 266-272 

Model siege gun ,...., 373-379 

Model steam locomotive, Lackawanna 351-361 

Model submarine chaser 273-280 

Model submarine with radio control 281-321 

Mounting of abrasive wheels . . 98 



N 

Nozzle, drilling of, for steam turbine » . , o . . . 207 

O 

Oil pump, for flash steam plant, operation of 171 

Oil tank for flash steam plant, operation of 171 

One-piece patterns, making of 108 

Outfit for hard soldering 78 



P 

Parted patterns, making of ., ..o .... 114 

Pattern, draft of , . . . 107-108 

fillets 123 

making . 100-125 

Patterns, allowance for casting shrinkage 125 

core box 118 

core prints 116 

making one-piece 108 

parted 110 

parted, making of 114 

preparing surface of . . ' 101 

proper wood for 101 

Pickle, for electro-plating 132 

for silver soldering . 78 

Pitch of threads 49 



Inde^ 387 

PAGE 

Polishing 91 

abrasive powder for 92 

flat surfaces 93 

wheels for 92 

Powder, abrasive for polishing . . . . . . . . 91-92 

Preparation of surface for soft soldering 73 

Pressure gauge, small for model boilers 239-241 

Propeller, airplane 339 

submarine 297 

Proper temperature for case hardening steel 84 

Pump, oil for flash steam plant, operation of 171 

water, for model Sharpie-type boat 271 

Pumps, water, for model steam engines 239 

R 

Eadio-controlled submarine 281-321 

automatic control for . 305-308 

hull for 284 

motor for . . 288 

relay for 311 

transmission for 289 

Railroad, model gyroscope 357 

Rails for model gyroscope railroad 364 

Rake, positive and negative of lathe tools 34 

Reel for caterpillar tank 299 

Relay for radio-controlled submarine 311 

Reservoir, water for flash steam 171, 172 

Riveting boilers 218 

Rotary valve for three-cylinder engine 187 

Rubber abrasive wheels . . . 98 

S 

Safety valves for model boilers 231-234 

Scott type boiler 225 

Screw cutting 45 

Screw cutting gears, mounting of 50 

ratio of ... * 50 

Screw cutting tool 46 

grinding of 46 

Seating of safety valves 233 

Semi-flash model boilers . . " 220-225 

Setting up lathes 30 

Sharpie-type model boat 266-272 

Shrinkage of castings, allowance for on patterns 125 

Siege gun, model 372-379 



388 Indecc 

PAGE 

Silicate abrasive wheels ...,.,,... 97 

Silver solder, composition of ; . . 78-81 

melting point of 79 

Silver soldering 78 

outfit for 78 

pickle for 78 

Single cylinder steam engine 147-151 

Single flue model boilers 217 

Six-cylinder airplane engine 196 

Six-cylinder steam engine, rotary airplane 196 

Small lathe cabinet 61 

Soft and hard soldering 72-81 

Soft soldering 73 

alcohol burner for 75 

flux for 73-77 

preparation of surface for . .' 73 

wiring of objects for . . . 76 

Soldering, soft 73 

Spark plug for model gas engine 341-342, 344, 345 

Spinning, metal 41 

requirements of lathe for . . .42 

Steam engine, crankshaft for marine ....... 164 

four-cylinder 184 

four-cylinder airplane, boiler for 184 

four-cylinder flash 175-186 

single cylinder 148-152 

six-cylinder airplane 196 

Slide crank 137-141 

three-cylinder airplane . . . 187 

three-cylinder, rotary for airplane 187-197 

twin-cylinder marine . 153 

twin-cylinder Westinghouse type 140-146 

Steam locomotive, model Lackawanna . . . . . . 351-356 

Steam turbine 198-214 

Steam turbine nozzle, drilling of 207 

Steel, hardening of . 88 

heating of, for various hardness . 83 

impregnation of, with carbon 85 

tempering of 82-88 

Submarine chaser, model . . 273-280 

Submarine, model radio-controlled 281-321 

propellers 297 

T 

Tank, model caterpillar . 365-371 

oil for flash steam plant 171 



Index 389 

PAGE 

Tempering steel 82-88 

Thread gauge 46-54 

Thread, properl}- cut 52 

United States Standard 45 

Threads, interior cutting of 51 

pitch of 49 

Three-cylinder steam engine, rotary airplane 187-197 

Tinning 76 

Tool cabinet 21 

.Tool for boring bar . .44 

Tools, shop collection of . . 20 

metal turning .33 

wood turning 32 

Transmission for radio-controlled submarine 289 

Turbine, steam 198-214 

Turning metal, elementary 33 

Turning of crankshafts 39, 40, 146, 151, 164, 179 

Twin-cylinder steam engine, Westinghouse type .... 140-146 
Twin-cylinder Westinghouse steam engine, crankcase for . . . 142 
Two-cylinder marine engine 153-167 

U 

United States Standard thread 45 

Use of abrasives 89-99 

V 

Valve, rotary for three-cylinder engine 187 

Valve check, for model boilers 237 

globe, for model boilers 237 

safety, for model boilers 231-234 

safety, seating of . 233 

spring 226-233 

weight 234 

Vat, electro-plating 128 

V-block, use of 70 

Vitrified abrasive wheels 97 

W 

Waterback for model boilers 222 

Water eoCks for model boilers 234-236 

Water glasses, for model boilers . . . . . . . , 238 

Water pump, for record-breaking h^^droplane 257 

for model Sharpie-type boat 271 

Water pumps, for model steam engines 239 

Water reservoir, for flash steam plants 171, 172 



390 Indea^ 



PAGE 



Wheels, abrasive 89-99 

polishing 92 

Wiring objects for soft soldering . .../... 76 

Wood, proper for patterns 101 

Wood turning 32 

tools 32 

Work bench, construction of 18 

Workshop, model engineers' 15-24 

model engineers', tool equipment of 19 



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INDEX 



PAGES 

Air Brakes. 21, 24 

Arithmetic 14, 25, 31 

Automobile Books 3, 4, 5, 6 

Automobile Charts 6, 7 

Automobile Ignition Systems 5 

Automobile Lighting 5 

Automobile Questions and Answers 4 

Automobile Repairing 4 

Automobile Starting Systems 5 

Automobile Trouble Charts 5, 6 

Automobile Welding 5 

Aviation 7 

Aviation Chart 7 

Batteries, Storage 5 

Bevel Gear 19 

Boiler-Room Chart 9 

Brazing 7 

Cams 19 

Carburetion Trouble Chart 6 

Change Gear 19 

Charts 6, 7, 8 

Coal 22 

Coke 9 

Combustion 22 

Compressed Air 10 

Concrete 10, 11, 12 

Concrete for Farm Use 11 

Concrete for Shop Use 11 

Cosmetics 27 

Cyclecars 5 

Dictionary 12 

Dies 12, 13 

Drawing 13, 14 

Drawing for Plumbers 28 

Drop Forging 13 

Dynamo Building 14 

Electric Bells 14 

Electric Switchboards 14, 16 

Electric Toy Making 15 

Electric Wiring 14, 15, 16 

Electricity 14, 15, 16, 17 

Encyclopedia 24 

E-T Air Brake 24 

Every-day Engineering 34 

Factory Management 17 

Ford Automobile 3 

Ford Trouble Chart 6 

Formulas and Recipes 29 

Fuel 17 

Gas Construction 18 

Gas Engines 18, 19 

Gas Tractor 33 

Gearing and Cams 19 

Glossary of Aviation Terms 7, 12 

Heating 31, 32 

Horse-Power Chart 9 

Hot-Water Heating 31, 32 

House Wiring 15, 17 

How to Run an Automobile 3 

Hydraulics 5 

Ice and Refrigeration 20 

Ignition Systems 5 

Ignition-Trouble Chart 6 

India Rubber 30 

Interchangeable Manufacturing 24 

Inventions 20 

Knots 20 

Lathe Work : 20 



PAGES 

Link Motions 22 

Liquid Air 21 

Locomotive Boilers j. . . . 22 

Locomotive Breakdowns 22 

Locomotive Engineering 21, 22, 23, 24 

Machinist Book 24, 25, 26 

Magazine, Mechanical 34 

Manual Training 26 

Marine Engineering 26 

Marine Gasoline Engines 19 

Mechanical Drawing 13, 14 

Mechanical Magazine ^ 34 

Mechanical Movements 25 

Metal Work 12, 13 

Motorcycles 5,6 

Patents 20 

Pattern Making 27 

Perfumery 27 

Perspective 13 

Plumbing 28, 29 

Producer Gas 19 

Punches 13 

Questions and Answers on Automobile 4 

Questions on Heating 32 

Railroad Accidents 23 

Railroad Charts 9 

Recipe Book 29 

Refrigeration 20 

Repairing Automobiles 4 

Rope Work 20 

Rubber 30 

Rubber Stamps 30 

Saw Filing 30 

Saws, Management of 30 

Sheet-Metal Works 12, 13 

Shop Construction 25 

Shop Management 25 

Shop Practice 25 

Shop Tools 25 

Sketching Paper 14 

Soldering 7 

Splices and Rope Work 20 

Steam Engineering 30, 31 

Steam Heating 31, 32 

Steel 32 

Storage Batteries 5 

Submarine Chart 9 

Switchboards 14, 16 

Tapers 21 

Telegraphy, Wireless 17 

Telephone 16 

Thread Cutting 26 

Tool Making 24 

Toy Making 15 

Train Rules 23 

Tractive Power Chart 9 

Tractor, Gas 33 

Turbines 33 

Vacuum Heating 32 

Valve Setting 22 

Ventilation 31 

Watch Making 33 

Waterproofing 12 

Welding with Oxy-acetylene Flame 5, 33 

Wireless Telegraphy 17 

Wiring 14, 15 

Wiring Diagrams 14 



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AUTOMOBILES AND MOTORCYCLES 

The Modern Gasoline Automobile — Its Design, Construction, and Opera- 
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The Model T Ford Car, Its Construction, Operation and Repair. By Victor 
W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

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Every Ford owner needs this practical book. You don't have to guess about the construction 
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The Carburetor — Making the Ignition Spark — Cooling and Lubrication. 3. Details of Chassis. 
Change Speed Gear — Power Transmission — Differential Gear Action — Steering Gear — Front 
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Questions and Answers Relating to Modern Automobile Construction, 
Driving and Repair. By Victor W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

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How can you adjust a carburetor by the color of the exhaust gases? What causes "popping" 
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Cloth. 650 pages, 350 illustrations, 3 fol^ng plates. Price ..... $1.50 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

"If you own a car — get this book." — The Glassworker . 

"Mr. Page has the facuPty -of making difficult subjects plain and understandable." — Bristol 

Press. 

"We can name no writer better qualified to prepare a book of instruction on automobiles 

than Air. Victor W. Page." — Scientific American. 

"The best automobile catechism that has appeared." — Automobile Topics. 

"There are few. men, even with long experience, who will not find this book useful, '^reat 

pains have been taken to make it accurate. Special recommendation must be given to the 

illustrations, which have been made specially for the work. Such excellent books as this 

greatly assist in fully understanding your automobile." — Engineering News. 



The Automobilist's Pocket Companion and Expense Record. Arranged by 
Victor W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

This book is not only valuable as a convenient cost record but contains much information of value 
to motorists. Includes a condensed digest of auto laws of all States, a lubrication schedule, 
hints for care of storage battery and car^. of tires, location of road troubles, anti-freezing 
solutions, horse-power table, driving hints and many useful tables and recipes of interest to 
all motorists. Not a technical book in any sense of the word, just a collection of practical 
facts in simple language for the everyday motorist. Price $1.00 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



Modern Starting, Lighting and Ignition Systems. By Victor W. Page, M.E. 

This practical volume has been written with special reference to the requirements of the non- 
technical reader desiring easily understood, explanatory matter, relating to all types of auto- 
mobile ignition, starting and lighting systems. It can be understood by anyone, even without 
electrical knowledge, because elementary electrical principles are considered before any at- 
tempt is made to discuss features of the various systems. These basic principles are clearly 
stated and illustrated with simple diagrams. All the leading systems of starting, lighting and 
ignition liave been described and illustrated with the co-operation of the experts employed by the 
manufacturers. Wiring diagrams are shown in both technical and non-technical forms. All 
symbols are fully explained. It is a comprehensive review of modern starting and ignition 
system practice, and includes a complete exposition of storage battery construction, care and 
repair. All types of starting motors, generators, magnetos, and all ignition or lighting system- 
units are fully explained. Every person in the automobile business needs this volume. Among 
some of the subjects treated are: I. — Elementary Electricity; Current Production; Plow; 
Circuits; Measurements; Definitions; Magnetism; Battery Action; Generator Action. II — Battery 
Ignition Systems. III. — Magneto Ignition Systems. IV. — Elementary Exposition of Starting 
System Principles. V. — Typical Starting and Lighting Systems; Practical Application; Wiring 
Diagrams ;.\uto-lite, Bijur, Delco, Dyneto-Entz, Gray and Davis, Remy, U. S. L., Westinghouse, 
Bosch-Rushmore, Genemotor, North-East, etc. VI. — Locating and Repairing Troubles in Start- 
ing and Lighting Systems. VII. — Auxiliary. Electric Systems; Gear-shifting by Electricity; 
Warning Signals; Electric Brake; Entz-Transmission, Wagner-Saxon Circuits, Wagner- 
Studebaker Circuits. 5Mx73^. Cloth. 530 pages, 297 illustrations, 3 folding plates. 
Price $1.50 



Automobile Welding With the Oxy-Acetylene Flame. By M. Keith Dunham. 

This is the only complete book on the "why" and "how" of Welding with the Oxy-Acetylene 
Flame, and from its pages one can gain information so that he can weld anything that comes 
along. 

No one can afford to be without this concise book, as it first explains the apparatus to be 
used, and then covers in detail the actual welding of all automobile parts. The welding of 
aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, brass and malleable iron is clearly explained, as well 
as the proper way to burn the carbon out of the combustion head of the motor. Among the 
contents are: Chapter I. — Apparatus Knowledge. Chapter II. — Shop Equipment and 
Initial Procedure. Chapter III. — Cast Iron. Chapter IV. — Aluminum. Chapter V. — ■ 
Steel. Chapter VI. — Malleable Iron, Copper, Brass, Bronze. Chapter VII. — Carbon Burn- 
ing and other Uses of Oxygen and Acetylene. Chapter VIII. — How to Figure Cost of Weld- 
ing. 167 pages, fully illustrated. Price $1.00 



Storage Batteries Simplified. By Victor W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

A comprehensive treatise devoted entirely to secondary batteries and their maintenance, 
repair and use. 

This is the most up-to-date book on this subject. Describes fully the Exide, Edison, Gould, 
Willard, U. S. L. and other storage battery forms* in the types best suited for automobile, 
stationary and marine work. Nothing of importance has been omitted that the reader should 
know about the practical operation and care of storage batteries. No details have been 
slighted. The instructions for charging and care have been made as simple as possible. Brief 
Synopsis of Chapters: Chapter I. — Storage Battery Development; Types of Storage Bat- 
teries; Lead Plate Types; The Edison Cell. Chapter II. — Storage Battery Construction; 
Plates and Girds; Plante Plates; Faur6 Plates; Non-Lead Plates; Commercial Battery 
Designs. Chapter III. — Charging Methods; Rectifiers; Converters; Rheostats; Rules 
for Charging. Chapter IV. — Battery Repairs tind Maintenance. Chapter V. — Industrial 
Application of Storage Batteries; Glossary of Storage Battery Terms. 208 Pages. Very 
Fully lUustrated. Price $1,50 net. 



Motorcycles, Side Cars and Cyclecars; their Construction, Management 
and Repair. By Victor W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

The only complete work published for the motorcyclist and cyclerarist. Describes fully all 
leading types of machines, their design, construction, maintenance, operation and repair 
This treatise outlines fully the operation of two- and four-cycle power plants and all ignitioUj 
carburetion and lubrication systems in detail. Describes all representative types of free 
engine clutches, variable speed gears and power transmission systems. Gives complete in- 
structions for operating and repairing all tj'pes. Considers fully electric self-starting and 
lighting systems, all types of spring frames and spring forks and shows leading control methods. 
For those desiring technical information a .complete series of tables and many formulse to 
assist in designing are included. The work tells how to figure power needed to climb grades, 
overcome air resistance and attain high speeds. It shows how to select gear ratios for various 
weights and powers, how to figure braking efficiency required, gives sizes of belts and chains 
to transmit power safely, and shows how to design sprockets, belt pulleys, etc. This work 
^ also includes complete formulse for figuring horse-power, shows how dynamometer tests are 



THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 



made, defines relative efl&ciency of air and water-cooled engines, plain and anti-friction bear- 
ings and many other data of a practical, helpful, engineering nature. Remember that you 
get this information in addition to the practical description and instructions which alone are 
worth several times the price of the book. 550 pages. 350 specially made illustrations, 5 
folding plates. Cloth. Price ffii ca 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

"Here is a book that should be in the cycle repairer's kit." — American Blacksmith. 

"The best way for any rider to thoroughly understand his machine, is to get a copy of thia' 

book; it is worth many times its price." — Pacific Motorcyclist. 

AUTOMOBILE AND MOTORCYCLE CHARTS 

Chart. Location of Gasoline Engine Troubles Made Easy — A Cliart Show- 
ing Sectional View of Gasoline Engine. Compiled by Victor W. Page, 
M.S.A.E. 

It shows clearly all parts of a typical four-cylinder gasoline engine of the four-cycle type. 

It outlines distinctly all parts liable to give trouble and also details the derangements apt 

to interfere with smooth engine operation. 

Valuable to students, motorists, mechanics, repairmen, garagemen, automobile salesmen, 

chauffeurs, motorboat owners, motor-truck and tractor drivers, aviators, motor-cyclists, 

and all others who have to do with gasoline power plants. 

It simplifies location of all engine troubles, and while it will prove invaluable to the novice, 

it can be used to advantage by the more expert. It should be on the walls of every public 

and private garage, automobile repair shop, club house or school. It can be carried in the 

automobile or pocket with ease, and will insure against loss of time when engine trouble 

manifests itself. 

This sectional view of engine is a complete review of all motor troubles. It is prepared by a 

practical motorist for all who motor. More information for the money than ever before 

offered. No details omitted. Size 25x38 inches. Securely mailed on receipt of gg CCntS 

Chart. Location of Ford Engine Troubles Made Easy. Compiled by Victor 
W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

This shows clear sectional views depicting all portions of the Ford power plant and auxiliary 
groups. It outlines clearly all parts of the engine, fuel supply system, ignition group and 
cooling system, that are apt to give trouble, detailing all derangements that are liable to 
make an engine lose power, start hard or work irregularly. This chart is valuable to students, 
owners, and drivers, as it simplifies location of all engine faults. Of great advantage as an 
instructor for the novice, it can be used equally well by the more expert as a work of reference 
and review. It can be carried in the tool-box or pocket with ease and will save its cost in 
labor eliminated the first time engine trouble manifests itself. Prepared with special refer- 
ence to the average man's needs and is a practical review of all motor troubles because it is based 
on the actual experience of an automobile engineer-mechanic with the mechanism the chart 
describes. It enables the non-technical owner or operator of a Ford car to locate engine 
derangements by systematic search, guided by easily recognized symptoms instead of by 
guesswork. It makes the average owner independent of the roadside repair shop when tour- 
ing. Must be seen to be appreciated. Size 25x38 inches. Printed on heavy bond paper. 

Price 25 cents 

Chart. Lubrication of the Mofor Car Chassis. Compiled by Victor W. 
Page, M.S.A.E. 

This chart presents the plan view of a typical six-cylinder chassis of standard design and all 
parts are clearly indicated that demand oil, also the frequency with which they must be 
lubricated and the kind of oil to use. A practical chart for all interested in motor-car main- 
tenance. Size 24x38 inches. Price 35 CCntS 

Chart. Location of Carbureton Troubles Made Easy. Compiled by Victor 
W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

This chart shows all parts of a typical pressure feed fuel supply system and gives causes of 
trouble, how to locate defects and means of remedying them. Size 24x38 inches. 

Price 25 cents 

Chart. Location of Ignition System Troubles Made Easy. Compiled by 
Victor W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

In this diagram all parts of a typical double ignition system using battery and magneto current 
are shown, and suggestions are given for readily finding ignition troubles and eliminating 
them when found. Size 24x38 inches. Price . 25 CCUtS 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 7 

Chart. Location of Cooling and Lubrication System Faults. Compiled by 
Victor W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

This composite diagram shows a typical automobile power plant using pump circulated 
water-cooling system and the most popular lubrication method. Gives suggestions for cur- 
ing all overheating and loss of power faults due to faulty action of the oiling or cooling group. 
Size 24x38 inches. Price ;25 CCntS 

Chart. Motorcycle Troubles Made Easy. Compiled by Victor W. Page, 
M.S.A.E. 

A chart showing sectional view of a single-cylinder gasoline engine. This chart simplifies 
location of all power-plant troubles. A single-cylinder motor is shown for simplicity. It 
outlines distinctly all parts liable to give trouble and also details the derangements apt to 
interfere with smooth engine operation. This chart will prove of value to all who have to do 
with the operation, repair or sale of motorcycles. No details omitted. Size 30x20 inches. 

Price 35 cents 

AVIATION 

Aviation Engines, their Design, Construction, Operation and Repair. By 

Lieut. Victor W. Page, Aviation Section, S.C.U.S.R. 

A practical work containing valuable instructions for aviation students, mechanicians, 
squadron engineering officers and all interested in the construction and upkeep of airplane 
power plants. 

The rapidly increasing interest in the study of aviation, and especially of the highly developed 
internal combustion engines that make mechanical flight possible, has created a demand for a 
text-book suitable for schools and home study that will clearly and concisely explain the 
workings of the various aircraft engines of foreign and domestic manufacture. 
This treatise, WTitten by a recognized authority on all of the practical aspects of internal 
combustion engine construction, maintenance and repair fills the need as no other book does. 
The matter is logically arranged; all descriptive matter is simply expressed and copiously 
illustrated so that anyone can understand airplane engine operation and repair even if with- 
out previous mechanical training. This work is invaluable for anyone desiring to become an 
aviator or a\'iation mechanician. 

The latest rotary types, such as the Gnome, Monosoupape, and Le Rhone, are fully explained, 
as w^ell as the recently developed Vee and radial types. The subjects of carburetion, ignition, 
cooling and lubrication also are covered in a thorough manner. The chapters on repair and 
maintenance are distinctive and found in no other book on this subject. 
* Invaluable to the student, mechanic and soldier wishing to enter the aviation service. 

Not a technical book, but a practical, easily understood work of reference for all interested 
in aeronautical science. 576 octavo pages. 253 specially made engravings. Price . $3.00 net 

GLOSSARY OF AVIATION TERMS 



Termes D'Aviation, English-B'rench, French-English. Compiled by Lieuts. 
Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R., and Paul Montariol of the French 
Flying Corps, on duty on Signal Corps Aviation School, Mineola, L. I. 

A complete, well illustrated volume intended to facilitate conversation between English- 
speaking and French aviators. A very valuable book for all who are about to leave for duty 
overseas. 

Approved for publication by Alajcr W. G. Kilner, S.C., U.S. CO. Signal Corps Aviation 
School. Hazlehurst Field, Mineola, L.I. 

This book should be in every Aviator's and Mechanic's Kit for ready reference. 128 pages. 
Fully illustrated with detailed engravings. Price §1.00 

Aviation Chart. Location of Airplane Power Plant Troubles Made Easy. 

By Lieut. Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. 

A large chart outlining all parts of a typical airplane power plant, showing the points wheref 
trouble is apt to occur and suggesting remedies for the common defects. Intended espe- 
cially for Aviators and Aviation Mechanics on School and Field Duty. Price . . 50 CCntS 

BRAZING AND SOLDERING 

Brazing and Soldering. By James F. Hobart. 

The only book that shows you just how to handle any job of brazing or soldering that comes 
along; it tells you what mixture to use, how to make a furnace if you need one. Full of valu- 
able kinks. The fifth edition of this book has just been published, and to it much new mat- 
ter and a large number of tested formulae for all kinds of solders and fluxes have been added. 
Illustrated. Price 25 CCntS 



8 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

CHARTS 

Aviation Chart. Location of Airplane Power Plant Troubles Made Easy. 

By Lieut. Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. 

A large chart outlining all parts of a typical airplane power plant, showing the points where 
trouble is apt to occul and suggesting remedies for the common defects. Intended especially 
for A\'iators and Aviation Mechanics on School and Field Duty. Price .... 50 CCntS 

Gasoline Engine Troubles Made Easy — A Chart Showing Sectional View of 
Gasoline Engine. Compiled by Lieut. Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. 

It shows clearly all parts of a typical four-cylinder gasoline engine of the four-cycle type. 
It outlines distinctly all parts liable to give trouble and also details the derangements apt 
to interfere with smooth engine operation. 

Valuable to students, motorists, mechanics, repairmen, garagemen, automobile salesmen, 
chauffeurs, motor-boat owners, motor-truck and tractor drivers, aviators, motor-cyclists, 
and all others who have to do with gasoline power plants. 

It simplifies location of all engine troubles, and while it -wdll prove invaluable to the novice, 
it can be used to advantage by the more expert. It should be on the walls of every public 
and private garage, automobile repair shop, club house or school. It can be carried in the 
automobile or pocket with ease and will insure against loss of time when engine trouble mani- 
fests itself. 

This sectional \'iew of engine is a complete review of all motor troubles. It is prepared by a 
practical motorist for all who motor. No detailsomitted. Size 25x38 inches. Price 25 CCUtS 

Lubrication of the Motor Car Chassis. 

This chart presents the plan view of a typical six-cylinder chassis of standard design and 
all parts are clearly indicated that demand oil, also the frequency with which they must be 
lubricated and the kind of oil to use. A practical chart for all interested in motor-car main- 
tenance. Size 24x38 inches. Price 35 CCUtS 

Location of Carburetion Troubles Made Easy. 

This chart shows all parts of a typical pressure feed fuel supply system and gives causes of 
trouble, how to locate defects and means of remedying them. Size 24x38 inches. 

Price ". 25 cents 

Location of Ignition System Troubles Made Easy. 

In this chart all parts of a typical double ignitipn system using battery and magneto current 
are shown and suggestions are given for readily finding ignition troubles and eliminating 
them when found. Size 24x38 inches. Price 25 CCUtS 

Location of Cooling and Lubrication System Faults. 

This composite chart shows a typical automobile power plant using pump circulated water- 
cooling system and the most popular lubrication method. Gives suggestions for curing all 
overheating and loss of power faults due to faulty action of the oiling or cooling group. Size 
24x38 inches. Price 35 CCUtS 

Motorcycle Troubles Made Easy — A Chart Showing Sectional View of Single- 
Cylinder Gasoline Engine. Compiled by Victor W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

This chart simplifies location of all power-plant troubles, and will prove invaluable to all 
who have to do with the operation, repair or sale of motorcycles. No details omitted. Size 
25x38 inches. Price 35 CCUtS 

Location of Ford Engine Troubles Made Easy. ompiled by Victor W. 
Page, M.S.A.E. 

This shows clear sectional views depicting all portions of the Ford power plant and auxiliary 
groups. It outlines clearly all parts of the engine, fuel supply system, ignition group and 
cooling system, that are apt to give trouble, detailing all derangements that are liable to 
make an engine lose power, start hard or work irregularly. This chart is valuable to students, 
owners, and drivers, as it simplifies location of all engine faults. Of great advantage as an 
instructor for the novice, it can be used equally well by the more expert as a work of reference 
and re^dew. It can be carried in the toolbox or pocket with ease and will save its cost in 
labor eliminated the first time engine trouble manifests itself. Prepared with special refer- 
ence to the average man's needs and is a practical review of all motor troubles because it is 
based on the actual experience of an automobile engineer-mechanic with the mechanism the 
chart describes. It enables the non-technical owner or operator of a Ford car to locate en- 
gine derangements by systematic search, guided by. easily recognized symptoms instead of 
by guesswork. It makes the average owner independent of the roadside repair shop when 
touring. Must be seen to be appreciated. Size 25x38 inches. Printed on heavy bond paper. 

Price 35 cents 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 9 

r 

Modern Submarine Chart — with Two Hundred Parts Numbered and Named. 

A cross-section view, showing clearly and. distinctly all the interior of a Submarine of the 
latest type. You get more information from this chart, about the construction and opera- 
tion of a Submarine, than in any other way. No details omitted — everything is accurate 
and to scale. It is absolutely correct in every detail, having been approved by Naval En- 
gineers. All the machinery and devices fitted in a modern Submarine Boat are shown, and 
to make the engraving more readily understood all the features are shown in operative form, 
■with Officers and Men in the act of performing the duties assigned to them in service con- 
ditions. This CHART IS REALLY AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF A SUB^^IARINE. It 
is educational and worth many times its cost. Mailed in a Tube for 35 CeutS 

Box Car Chart. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a box car, having every part of the car numbered and its 
proper name given in a reference list. Price 35 CeutS 

Gondola Car Chart. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a gondola car, having every part of the car numbered and 
its proper reference name given in a reference list. Price 35 CentS 

Passenger-Car Chart. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a pas.'Senger-car, having every part of the car numbered 
and its proper name given in a reference list 35 CCUtS 

Steel Hopper Bottom Coal Car. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a steel Hopper Bottom Coal Car, having every part of the 
car numbered and its proper name given in a reference list. Price 35 CeutS 

Tractive Power Chart. 

A chart whereby you can find the tractive power or drawbar pull of any locomotive without 
making a figure. Shows what cylinders are equal, how driving wheels and steam pressure 
affect the power. What sized engine you need to exert a given drawbar pull or anything you 
desire in this line. Price 50 CCntS 

Horse-Power Chart. 

Shows the horse-power of any stationary engine without calculation. No matter what the 
cylinder diameter of stroke, the steam pressure of cut-off, the revolutions, or whether con- 
densing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, accurate, and saves time and calcu- 
lations. Especially useful to engineers and designers. Price 50 CentS 

Boiler Boom Chart. By Geo. L. Fowler. 

A chart — size 14x28 inches — showing in isometric perspective the mechanisms belonging in 
a modern boiler room. The various parts are shown broken or removed, so that the internal 
construction is fully illustrated. Each part is given a reference number, and these, with the 
corresDonding name, are given in a glossary printed at the sides. This chart is really a dic- 
tionary of the boiler room — the names of more than 200 parts being given. Price . 35 ceutS 



COKE 

Modern Coking Practice, Including Analysis of Materials and Products. 

By J. E. Christopher and T. H. Byrom. 

This, the standard work on the subject, has just been revised. It is a practical work for those 
engaged in Coke manufacture and the recovery of By-products. Fully illustrated with fold- 
ing plates. It has been the aim of the authors, in preparing this book, to produce one which 
shall be of use and benefit to those who are associated with, or interested in, the modern 
developments of the indu.stry. Among the Chanters contained in Volume I are: Introduc- 
tion; Classification of Fuels; Impurities of Coals; Coal Washing; Sampling and Valuation 
of Coals, etc.; Power of Fuels; History of Coke Manufacture; Develonmcnts in the Coke 
Oven Design; Recent Types of Coke Ovens; Mechanical Appliances at Coke Ovens; Chem- 
ical and Phy.sical Examination of Coke. Volume II covers fully the subject of By-Products. 
Price, per volume $3.00 net 



10 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

COMPRESSED AIR 

Compressed Air in All Its Applications. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is the most complete book on the subject of Air that has ever been issued, and its thirty- 
five chapters include about every phase of the subject one can think of. It may be called 
an encyclopedia of compressed air. It is written by an expert, who, in its 665 pages, has 
dealt with the subject in a comprehensive manner, no phase of it being omitted. Includes 
the physical properties of air from a vacuum to its highest pressure, its thermodynamics, 
compression, transmission and uses as a motive power, in the Operatioa of Stationary and 
Portable Machinery, in Mining, Air Tools, Air Lifts, Pumping of Water, Acids, and Oils; 
the Air Blast for Cleaning and Painting the Sand Blast and its Work, and the Numerous 
Appliances in which Compressed Air is a Most Convenient and Economical Transmitter of 
.Power for Mechanical Work, Railway Propulsion, Refrigeration, and the Various Uses to which 
Compressed Air has been applied. Includes forty-four tables of the physical properties of 
air, its compression, expansion, and volumes required for various kinds of work, and a list 
of patents on compressed air from 1875 to date. Over 500 illustrations, 5th Edition, re- 
vised and enlarged. 

Cloth bound. Price $5.00 

Half Morocco. Price $6.50 

CONCRETE 

Concrete Workers' Reference Books. A Series of Popular Handbooks for 
Concrete Users. Prepared by A. A. Houghton .50 cents 

The author, in -preparing this Series, has not only treated on the usual types of construction, but 
explains and illustrates molds and systems that are not patented, but which are equal in value 
and often superior to those restricted by patents. These molds are very easily and cheaply con- 
structed and embody simplicity, rapidity of operation, and the most successful results in the molded 
concrete. Each of these books is fully illustrated, and the subjects are exhaustively treated in plain 
English. 

Concrete Wall Forms. By A. A. Houghton. 

A new automatic wall clamp is illustrated with working drawings. Other types of wall forms, 
clamps, separators, etc., are also illustrated and explained. .(No. 1 of Series) Price 50 CCntS 

Concrete Floors and Sidewalks. By A. A. Houghton. 

The molds for molding squares, hexagonal and many other styles of mosaic floor and side- 
walk blocks are fully illustrated and explained. (No. 2 of Series) Price 50 CCntS 

Practical Concrete Silo Construction. By A. A. Houghton. 

Complete working drawings and specifications are given for several styles of concrete silos, 
with illustrations of molds for monolithic and block silos. The tables, data, and information 
presented in this book are of the utmost value in planning and constructing all forms of con- 
crete silos. (No. 3 of Series) Price 50 CCUtS 

Molding Concrete Chimneys, Slate and Roof Tiles. By A. A. Houghton. 

The manufacture of all types of concrete slate and roof tile is fully treated. Valuable data 
on all forms of reinforced concrete roofs are contained within its pages. The construction 
of concrete chimneys by block and monolithic systems is fully illustrated and described. A 
number of ornamental designs of chimney construction with molds are shown in this valuable 
treatise. (No. 4 of Series.) Price . 50 CCUtS 

Molding and Curing Ornamental Concrete. By A. A. Houghton. 

The proper proportions of cement and aggregates for various finishes, also the method of 
thoroughly mixing and placing in the molds, are fully treated. An exhaustive treatise on 
this subject that every concrete worker will find of daily use and value. (No. 5 of Series.) 

Price 50 cents 

Concrete Monuments, Mausoleums and Burial Vaults. By A. A. Houghton. 

The molding of concrete monuments to imitate the most expensive cut stone is explained 
in this treatise, with working drawings of easily built molds. Cutting inscriptions and de- 
signs are also fully treated. (No. 6 of Series.) Price 50 CCUtS 

Molding Concrete Bathtubs, Aquariums and Natatoriums. By 4. A. 

Houghton. 

Simple molds and instruction are given for molding many styles of concrete bathtubs, swim- 
ming-pools, etc. These molds are easily built and permit rapid and successful work. (JNo. 7 
of Series.) Price 50 CCUtS 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 11 

Concrete Bridges, Culverts and Sewers. By A. A. Houghton. 

A number of ornamental concrete bridges with illustrations of molds are given. A collapsible 
center or core for bridges, culverts and sewers is fully illustrated with detailed instructions 
for building. (No. 8 of Series.) Price 50 CentS 

Constructing Concrete Porches. By A. A. Houghton. 

A number of designs with working drawings of molds are fully explained so any one can easily 
construct different styles of ornamental concrete porches without the purchase of expensive 
molds. (No. 9 of Series.) Price 50 CCntS 

Molding Concrete Flower-Pots, Boxes, Jardinieres, Etc. By A. A. Houghton. 

The molds for producing many original designs of flower-pots, urns, fliower-boxes, jardinieres, 
etc., are fully illustrated and explained, so the worker can easily construct and operate same. 
(No. 10 of Series.) Price 50 CCUtS 

Molding Concrete Fountains and Lawn Ornaments. By A. A. HoughtoNo 

The molding of a number of designs of lawn seats, curbing, hitching posts, pergolas, sun dials 
and other forms of ornamental concrete for the ornamentation of lawns and gardens, is fully 
illustrated and described. (No. 11 of Series.) Price 50 CCntS 

Concrete from Sand Molds. By A. A. Houghton. 

A Practical Work treating on a process which has heretofore been held as a trade secret by 
the few who possessed it, and which will successfully mold every and any class of ornamental 
concrete work. The process of molding concrete with sand molds is of the utmost practical 
value, possessing the manifold advantages of a low cost of molds, the ease and rapidity of 
operation, perfect details to all ornamental designs, density and increased strength of the 
concrete, perfect curing of the work without attention and the easy removal of the molds 
regardless of any undercutting the design may have. 192 pages. Fully illustrateu 
Price $3.00 

Ornamental Concrete without Molds. By A. A. Houghton. 

The process for making ornamental concrete without molds has long been held as a secret, 
and now, for the first time, this process is given to the public. The book reveals the secret 
and is the only book published which explains a simple, practical method whereby the con- 
crete worker is enabled, by employing wood and metal templates of different designs, to mold 
or model in concrete any Cornice, Archivolt, Column, Pedestal, Base Cap, Urn or Pier in a 
monolithic form — right upon the job. These may be molded in units or blocks and then built 
up to smt the specifications demanded. This work is fully illustrated, with detailed engrav- 
ings. Price $3.00 

Concrete for the Farm and in the Shop. By H. Colin Campbell, C.E., E.M. 

"Concrete for the Farm and in the Shop" is a new book from cover to cover, illustrating and 
describing in plain, simple language many of the numerous applications of concrete within 
the range of the home worker. Among the subjects treated are: Principles of Reinforcing; 
Methods of Protecting Concrete so as to Insure Proper Hardening; Home-made Mixers; 
Mixing by Hand and Alachine; Form Construction, Described and Illustrated by Draw- 
ings and Photographs; Construction of Concrete Walls and Fences; Concrete Fence Posts; 
Concrete Gate Posts; Corner Posts; Clothes Line Posts; Grape Arbor Posts; Tanks; 
Troughs; Cisterns; Hog Wallows; Feeding Floors and Barnyard Pavements; Foundations; 
Well Curbs and Platforms; Indoor Floors; Sidewalks; Steps; Concrete Hotbeds and Cold 
Frames; Concrete Slab Roofs; Walls for Buildings; Repairing Leaks in Tanks and Cisterns; 
and all topics associated with these subjects as bearing upon securing the best results from 
concrete are dwelt upon at sufficient length in plain every-day English so that the inexperi- 
enced person desiring to undertake a piece of concrete construction can, by following the 
directions set forth in this book, secure 100 per cent, success every time. A number of con- 
venient and practical tables for estimating quantities, and some practical examples, are also 
given. (5x7.) 149 pages. 51 illustrations. Price 75 CCnt^ 

Popular Handbook for Cement and Concrete Users. By Myron H. Lewis. 

This is a concise treatise of the principles and methods employed irl the manufacture and use 
of cement in all classes of modern works. The author has brought together in this work all 
the salient matter of interest to the user of concrete and its many diversified products. The 
matter is presented in logical and systematic order, clearly written, fully illustrated and free 
from involved mathematics. Everything of value to the concrete user is given, including 
kinds of cement ernployed in construction, concrete architecture, inspection and testing, 
waterproofing, coloring and painting, rules, tables, working and cost data. The book com- 
prises thirty-three chapters, as follow: Introductory. Kinds of Cement and How They 
are Made. Properties. Testing and Requirements of Hydraulic Cement. Concrete and Its 
Properties. Sand, Broken Stone and Gravel for Concrete. How to Proportion the Materials. 
How to Mix and Place Concrete. Forms of Concrete Construction. The Architectural and 
Artistic Possibilities of Concrete. Concrete Residences. Mortars, Plasters and Stucco, 
and How to Use Them. The Artistic Treatment of Concrete Surfaces. Concrete Building 



12 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

Blocks. The Making of Ornamental Concrete. Concrete Pipes, Fences, Posts, etc. Essen- 
tial Features and Advantages of Reenforced Concrete. How to Design Reenforced Con- 
crete Beams, Slabs and Columns. Explanations of the Methods and Principles in Designing 
Reenforced Concrete, Beams and Slabs. Systems of Reenforcement Employed. Reen- 
forced Concrete in Factory and General Building Construction. Concrete in Foundation Work. 
Concrete Retaining Walls, Abutments and Bulkheads. Concrete Arches and Arch Bridges. 
Concrete Beam and Girder Bridges. Concrete in Sewerage and Draining Works. Concrete 
Tanks, Dams and Reservoirs. Concrete Sidewalks, Curbs and Pavements. Concrete in 
Railroad Construction. The Utility of Concrete on the Farm. The Waterproofing of Con- 
crete Structures. Grout of Liquid Concrete and Its Use. Inspection of Concrete Work. 
Cost of Concrete Work. Some of the special features of the book are: 1. — The Attention 
Paid to the Artistic and Architectural Side of Concrete Work. 2. — The Authoritative Treat- 
ment of the Problem of Waterproofing Concrete. 3. — An Excellent Summary of the Rules 
to be Followed in Concrete Construction. 4. — The Valuable Cost Data and Useful Tables 
given. A valuable Addition to the Library of Every Cement and Concrete User. Price . $3,50 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

"The field of Concrete Construction is well covered and the matter contained is well within 
the understanding of any person." — Engineering-Contracting. 

"Should be on the bookshelves of every contractor, engineer, and architect in the land." — 
National Builder. 

Waterproofing Concrete. By Myron H. Lewis. 

Modern Methods of Waterproofing Concrete and Other Structures. A condensed statement 
of the Principles, Rules, and Precautions to be Observed in Waterproofing and Dampproofing 
Structures and Structural Materials. Paper binding. Illustrated. Price .... 50 CCntS 

DICTIONARIES 

Aviation Terms, Termes D'Aviation, English-Frencli, Frencli-Englisli. 

Compiled by Lieuts. Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R., and Paul Mon- 
TARioL, of the French Flying Corps, on duty on Signal Corps Aviation School, 
Mineola, L. I. 

The lists contained are confined to essentials, and special folding plates are included to show 
all important airplane parts. The lists are divided in four sections as follows: 1. — Flying 
Field Terms. 2.— The Airplane. 3. — The Engine. 4. — Tools and Shop Terms. 
A complete, well illustrated volume intended to facilitate conversation between English-speak- 
ing and French aviators. A very valuable book for all who are about to leave for duty over- 
seas. 

Approved for publication by Major W. G. Kilner, S.C., U.S. CO. Signal Corps Aviation School, 
Hazelhurst Field, Mineola, L. I. This. book should be in every Aviator's and Mechanic's Kit 
for ready reference. 128 pages, fully illustrated, with detailed engravings. Price . . $1.00 

Standard Electrical Dictionary. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

An indispensable work to all interested in electrical science. Suitable alike for the student 
and professional. A practical handbook of reference containing definitions of about 5,000 
distinct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and include every 
term used in electrical science. Recently issued. An entirely new edition. Should be in 
the possession of all who desire to keep abi^^ast with the progress of this branch of science. 
Complete, concise and convenient. 682 pages, 393 illustrations. Price $3*00 

BIES— METAL WORK 
pies J Their Construction and Use for the Modern Working of Sheet Metals. 

By J. V. WOODWORTH. 

A most useful book, and one which should be in the hands of all engaged in the press working 
of metals; treating on the Designing, Constructing, and Use of Tools, Fixtures and Devices, 
together with the mannpr in which they should be used in the Power Press, for the cheap and 
rapid production of the great variety of sheet-metal articles now in use. It is designed 
as a guide to the production of =heet-metal parts at the minimum of cost with the 
maximum of output. The hardening and tempering of Press tools and the classes of work 
which may be produced to the best advantage by the use of dies in the power press are fully 
treated. Its 51.5 illustrations show dies, press fixtures and sheet-metal working devices, the 
descriptions of which are so clear and practical that all metal-working mechanics will be able 
to understand how to design, construct and use them. Many of the dies and press fixtures 
treated were either constructed by the author or under his suneri-ision. Others were built by 
skilful mechanics and are in use in large sheet-metal establishments and machine shops. 
6th Revised and Enlarged Edition. Price $3.00 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 13 

Punches, Dies and Tools for Manufacturing in Presses. By J. V. Wood- 
worth. 

This work is a companion volume to the author's elementary work entitled "Dies: Their 
Construction and Use." It does not go into the details of die-making to the extent of the 
author's previous book, but gives a comprehensive review of the field of operations carried on 
by presses. A large part of the information given has been drawn from the author's personal 
experience. It might well be termed an Encyclopedia of Die-Making, Punch-Making, Die- 
Sinking, Sheet-Metal Working, and Making of Special Tools, Sub-presses, Devices and Mechani- 
cal Combinations for Punching, Cutting, Bending, Forming, Piercing, Drawing, Compressing 
and Assembling Sheet-Metal Parts, and also Articles of other Materials in Machine Tools. 
2d Edition. Price $4.0(1^ 

Drop Forging, Die-Sinking and Machine-Forming of Steel. By J. V. 

WOODWORTH. 

This is a practical treatise on Modern Shop Practice, Processes, Methods, Machine Tools, 
and Details treating on the Hot and Cold Machine-Forming of Steel and Iron into Finished 
Shapes: together with Tools, Dies, and Machinery involved in the manufacture of Duplicate 
Forgings and Interchangeable Hot and Cold Pressed Parts from Bar and Sheet Metal. This 
book fills a demand of long standing for information regarding drop-forgings, die-sinking and 
machine-forming of steel and the shop practice involved, as it actually exists in the modem 
drop-forging shop. The processes of die-sinking and force-making, which are thoroughly 
described and illustrated in this admirable work, are rarely to be found explained in such a 
clear and concise manner as is here set forth. The process of die-sinking relates to the engrav- 
ing or sinking of the female or lower dies, such as are used for drop-forgings, hot and cold 
machine-forging, swedging, and the press working of metals. The process of force-making 
relates to the engraNdng or raising of the male or upper dies used in producing the lower dies 
for the press-forming and machine-forging of duplicate parts of metal. 

In addition to the arts above mentioned the book contains explicit information regarding the 
drop-forging and hardening plants, designs, conditions, equipment, drop hammers, forging 
machines, etc., machine forging, hydraulic forging, autogenous welding and shop practice. 
The book contains eleven chapters, and the information contained in these chapters is just 
what will prove most valuable to the forged-metal worker. All operations described in the 
work are thoroughly illustrated by means of perspective half-tones and outline sketches of 
the machinery employed. 300 detailed illustrations. Price $S.5(^ 

DRAWING— SKETCHING PAPER 



Practical Perspective. By Richards and Colvin. 

Shows just how to make all kinds of mechanical drawings in the only practical perspective 
isometric. 2^Iakes everything plain, so that any mechanic can understand a sketch or drawing 
in this way. Saves time in the drawing room, and mistakes in the shops. Contains practical 
examples of various classes of work. 4th Edition. Price 50 CCntS 

Linear Perspective Self-Taught. By Herman T. C. Kraus. 

This work gives the theory and practice of linear perspective, as used in architectural, engineer- 
ing and mechanical drawings. Persons taking up the study of the subject by themselves will 
be able, by the use of the instruction given, to readily grasp the subject, and by reasonable 
practice become good perspective draftsmen. The arrangement of the book is good; the plate 
is on the left-hand, while the descriptive text follows on the opposite page, so as to be readily 
referred to. The drawings are on sufficiently large scale to show the work clearly and are 
plainly figured. There is included a self-explanatory chart which gives all information neces- 
sary for the thorough understanding of perspective. This chart alone is worth many times 
over the price of the book. 2d Re\'ised and Enlarged Edition. Price ....... §^.50 

Self-Taught Mechanical Drawing and Elementary Machine Design. By 

F. L. Sylvester, jNI.E., Draftsman, with additions by Erik Oberg, associate 
editor of "Machinery." 

This is a practical treatise on ^Mechanical Drawing and ^Machine Design, comprising the firsti 
principles of geometric and mechanical drawing, workshop mathematics, mechanics, strength 
oi materials and the calculations and design of machine details. The author's aim has been 
to adapt this treatise to the requirements of the practical mechanic and young draftsman, 
and to present the matter in as clear and concise a manner as possible. To meet the demands 
of this class of students, practically all the important elements of machine design have been 
dealt with, and in addition algebraic formulas have been explained, and the elements of 
trigonometry treated in the manner best suited to the needs of the practical man. The book 
isdivided into 20 chapters, and in arranging the material, mechanical drawing, pure and sirnple, 
has been taken up first, as a thorough understanding of the principles of representing objects 
facilitates the further study of mechanical subjects. This is followed by the mathematics 
necessary for the solution of the problems in machine design which are presented later, and a 
practical introduction to theoretical mechanics and the strength of materials. The various 
elements entering into machine design, such as cams, gears, sprocket-wheels, cone pulleys, 
bolts, screws, counlings, clut.^hes, shafting and fly-wheels, have been treated in such a way 
as to make possible the use of the work as a text-book for a continuous cour.se of study. It 
is easily comprehended and assimilated even by students of limited previous training. 3.30 
pages, 215 engravings. Price $!3.00 



14 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 
\ New Sketching Paper. 

A new specially ruled paper to enable you to make sketches or drawings in isometric perspec- 
tive without any figuring or fussing. It is being used for shop details as well as for assembly 
drawings, as it makes one sketch do the work of three, and no workman can help seeing just 
what is wanted. 

Pads of 40 sheets, 6x9 inches. Price oc r>pnfG 

Pads of 40 sheets, 9x12 inches. Price en ppni;s 

40 sheets, 12x18 inches. Price ffii aq 

ELECTRICITY 

Arithmetic of Electricity. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

A practical treatise on electrical calculations of all kinds reduced to a series of rules, all of the 
simplest forms, and involving only ordinary arithmetic; each rule illustrated by one or more 
practical problems, with detailed solution of each one. This book is classed among the most 
useful works published on the science of electricity, covering as it does the mathematics of 
electricity in a manner that will attract the attention of those who are not familiar with alge- 
braical formulas. 20th Edition. 160 pages. Price $1.00 

Commutator Construction. By Wm. Baxter, Jr. 

The business end of any dynamo or motor of the direct current type is the commutator. This 
book goes into the designing, building, and maintenance of commutators, shows how to locate 
troubles and how to remedy them ; everyone who fusses with dynamos needs this. 4th Edition. 

Price 25 cents 

Dynamo Building for Amateurs, or How to Construct a Fifty- Watt Dynamo. 

By Arthur J. Weed, Member of N. Y. Electrical Society. 

A practical treatise showing in detail the construction of a small dynamo or motor, the entire 
machine work of which can be done on a small foot lathe. Dimensioned working drawings 
are given for each piece of machine work, and each operation is clearly described. This 
machine, when used as a dynamo, has an output of fifty watts; when used as a motor it will 
drive a small drill press or lathe. It can be used to drive a sewing machine on any and all 
ordinary work. The book is illustrated with moi;e than sixty original engravings, showing the 
actual construction of the different parts. Among the contents are chapters on: 1. Fifty-Watt 
Dynamo. 2. Side Bearing Rods. 3. Field Punching. 4. Bearings. 5. Commutator. 6. 
Pulley. 7. Brush Holders. 8. Connection Board. 9. Armature Shaft." 10. Armature. 
11. Armature Winding. 12. Field Winding. 13. Connecting and starting. 

Paper. Price 50 CCUtS 

Cloth. Price $1.00 

Electric Bells. By M. B. Sleeper. 

A complete treatise for the practical worker in Installing, Operating and Testing Bell Circuits, 
Burglar Alarms, Thermostats, and other apparatus used with Electric Bells. 
Both the electrician and the experimenter will find in this book new material which is essential 
in their work. Tools, bells, batteries, unusual circuits, burglar alarms, annunciator systems, 
thermostats, circuit breakers, time alarms, and other apparatus used in bell circuits are de- 
scribed from the standpoints of their application, construction and repair. The detailed 
instruction for building the apparatus will appeal to the experimenter particularly. 
The practical worker will find the chapter on Wiring, Calculation of Wire Sizes and Magnet 
Winding, Upkeep of Systems, and the Location of Faults, of the greatest value in their work. 
Among the chapters are: Tools and Materials for Bell Work; How and Why Bell Work; 
Batteries for Small Installations; Making Bells and Push Buttons; Wiring Bell Systems; 
Construction of Annunciators and Signals; Burglary Alarms and Auxiliary Apparatus; IMore 
Elaborate Bell Systems; Finding Faults and Remedying Them. 124 pages, fully illustrated. 

Price 50 cents 

Electric Lighting and Heating Pocket Book. By Sydney F. Walker. 

This book puts in convenient form useful information regarding the apparatus which is likely 
to be attached to the mains of an electrical company. Tables of units and equivalents are in- 
cluded and useful electrical laws and formulas are stated. 438 pages, 300 engravings. Bound 
in leather. Pocket book form. Price $3.00 

Electric Wiring, Diagrams and Switchboards. By Newton Harrison, with 
additions by Thomas Poppe. 

A thoroughly practical treatise covering the subject of Electric Wiring in all its branches, 
including explanations and diagrams which are thoroughly explicit and greatly simplify the 
subject. Practical, every-day problems in wiring are presented and the method of obtain- 
ing intelligent results clearly shown. Only arithmetic is used. Ohm's law is given a sim- 
ple explanation with reference to wiring for direct and alternating currents. The funda- 
mental principle of drop of potential in circuits is shown with its various applications. The 
simple circuit is developed with the position of mains, feeders and branches; their treatment 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 15 



as a part of a wiring plan and their employment in house wiring clearly illustrated. Some 
simple facts about testing are included in connection with the wiring. Molding and conduit 
work are given careful consideration; and switchboards are systematically treated, built up 
and illustrated, showing the purpose they serve, for connection with the circuits, and to shunt 
and compound wound machines. The simple principles of switchboard construction, the 
development of the switchboard, the connections of the various instruments, including the 
lightning arrester, are also plainly set forth. 

Alternating current wiring is treated, with explanations of the power factor, conditions calling 
for various sizes of wire, and a simple way of obtaining the sizes for single-phase, two-phase 
and three-phase circuits. This is the only complete work issued showing and telling you what 
you should know about direct and alternating current wiring. It is a ready reference. The 
work is free from advanced technicalities and mathematics, arithmetic being used throughout. 
It is in every respect a handy, well-written, instructive, comprehensive volume on wiring 
for the wireman, foreman, contractor, or electrician. 2nd Revised Edition. 303 pages, 130 
illustrations. Price $1.50 

Electric Furnaces and their Industrial Applications. By J. Wright. 

This is a book which will prove of interest to many classes of people; the manufacturer who 
desires to know what product can be manufactured successfully in the electric furnace, the 
chemist who wishes to post himself on the electro-chemistry, and the student of science who 
merely looks into the subject from curiosity. New, Revised and Enlarged Edition. 320 
pages. Fully illustrated, cloth. Price $3.00 

Electric Toy Making, Dynamo Building, and Electric Motor Construction. 

By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This work treats of the making at home of electrical toys, electrical apparatus, motors, dynamos, 
and instruments in general, and is designed to bring within the reach of young and old the 
manufacture of genuine and useful electrical appliances. The work is especially designed for 
amateurs and young folks. 

Thousands of our young people are daily experimenting, and busily engaged in making elec- 
trical toys and apparatus of various kinds. The present work is just what is wanted to give 
the much needed information in a plain, practical manner, with illustrations to make easy 
the carrying out of the work. 20th Edition. Price $1.00 



Practical Electricity. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This work of 768 pages was previously known as Sloane's Electricians' Hand Book, and is 
intended for the practical electrican who has to make things go. The entire field of electricity 
is covered within its pages. Among some of the subjects treated are: The Theory of the 
Electric Current and Circuit, Electro-Chemistry, Primary Batteries, Storage Batteries, 
Generation and Utilization of Electric Powers, Alternating Current, Armature Winding, 
Dynamos and Motors, Motor Generators, Operation of the Central Station Switchboards, 
Safety Appliances, Distribution of Electric Light and Power, Street Mains, Transformers, 
Arc and Incandescent Lighting, Electric Measurements, Photometry, Electric Railways, 
Telephony, Bell-Wiring, Electric-Plating, Electric Heating, Wireless Telegraphy, etc. It 
contains no useless theory; everything is to the point. It teaches you just what you want 
to know about electricity. It is the standard work published on the subject. Forty-one 
chapters, 556 engravings. Price $!^.50 

Electricity Simplified. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

The object of "Electricity Simplified" is to make the subject as plain as possible and 
to sho%y what the modern conception of electricity is; to show how two plates of different 
metal, immersed in acid, can send a message around the globe; to explain how a bundle oi 
copper wire rotated by a steam engine can be the agent in lighting our streets, to tell what the 
volt, ohm and ampere are, and what high and low tension mean; and to answer the questions 
that perpetually arise in the mind in this age of electricity. 13th Edition. 172 pages. Illus- 
trated. Price - . . . $1.00 

House Wiring. By Thomas W. Poppe. 

This work describes and illustrates the actual installation of Electric Light Wiring, the man- 
ner in which the work should be done, and the method of doing it. The book can be con- 
veniently carried in the pocket. It is intended for the Electrician, Helper and Apprentice. 
It solves all Wiring Problems and contains nothing that conflicts with the rulings of the 
National Board of Fire Underwriters. It gives just the information essential to the Success- 
ful Wiring of a Building. Among the subjects treated are: Locating the Meter. Panel- 
Boards. Switches. Plug Receptacles. Brackets. Ceiling Fixtures. The ]Meter Connec- 
tions. The Feed Wires. The Steel Armored Cable System. The Flexible Steel Conduit 
System. The Ridig Conduit System. A digest of the National Board of Fire Underwriters' 
rules relating to metallic wiring systems. Various switching arrangements explained and 
diagrammed. The easiest method of testing the Three- and Four-way circuits explained. 
The grounding of all metallic wiring systems and the reason for doing so shown and explained. 
The insulation of the metal parts of lamp fixtures and the reason for the same described and 
illustrated. 125 pages. 2nd Edition, revised and enlarged. Fully illustrated. Flexible 
cloth. Price 5(| ceuts 



13 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 
How to Become a Successful Electrician. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

Every young man who wishes to become a successful electrician should read this book. It 
tells in simple language the surest and easiest way to become a successful electrician. The 
studies to be followed, methods of work, field of operation and the requirements of the suc- 
cessful electrician are pointed out and fully explained. Every young engineer will find this an 
excellent stepping stone to more advanced works on electricity which he must master before 
success can be attained. Many young men become discouraged at the very outstart by at- 
tempting to read and study books that are far beyond their comprehension. This book serves 
as the connecting link between the rudiments taught in the public schools and the real study 
of electricity. It is interesting from cover to cover. ISth Revised Edition, just issued. 205 
pages. Illustrated. Price $1.00 

Management of Dynamos. By Lummis-Paterson. 

A handbook of theory and practice. This work is arranged in three parts. The first part 
covers the elementary theory of the dynamo. The second part, the construction and action 
of the different classes of dynamos in common use are described; while the third part relates 
to such m_atters as affect the practical management and working of dynamos and motors. 
4th Edition. 292 pages, 117 illustrations. Price $1.50 

Standard Electrical Dictionary. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

An indispensable work to all interested in electrical science. Suitable alike for the student 
and professional. A practical handbook of reference containing definitions of about 5,000 
distinct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and include every 
term used in electrical science. Recently issued. An entirely new edition. Should be in the 
possession of all who desire to keep abreast with the progress of this branch of science. In 
its arrangement and typography the book is very convenient. The word or term defined is 
printed in black-faced type, which readily catches the eye, while the body of the page is in 
smaller but distinct type. The definitions are well worded, and so as to be understood by the 
non-technical reader. The^ general plan seems to be to give an exact, concise definition, and 
then amplify and explain in a more popular way. Synonyms are also gi% en, and references 
to other words and phrases are made. A very complete and accurate index of fifty pages 
is at the end of the volume; and as this index contains all synonyms, and as all phrases are 
indexed in every reasonable combination of words, reference to the proper place in the body 
of the book is readily made. It is difficult to decide how far a book of this character is to 
keep the dictionary form, and to what extent it may assume the encyclopedia form. For 
some purposes, concise, exactly worded definitions are needed; for other purposes, more 
extended descriptions are required. This book seeks to satisfy both demands, and does it 
with considerable success. 682 pages, 393 illustrations. 12th Edition. 
Price P.OO 

Storage Batteries Simplified. By Victor W. Page, M.E. 

A complete treatise on storage battery operating principles, repairs _ and applications. 
The greatly increasing application of storage batteries in modern engineering and mechanical 
work has created a demand for a book that will consider this subject completely and exclu- 
sively. This is the most thorough and authoritative treatise ever published on this subject. 
It is written in easily understandable, non-technical language so that any one may grasp 
the basic principles of storage battery action as well as their practical industrial applications. 
All electric and gasoline automobiles use storage batteries. Every automobile repairman, 
dealer or salesman should have a good knowledge of maintenance and repair of these impor- 
tant elements of the motor car mechanism. This book not only tells how to charge, care for 
and rebuild storage batteries but also outlines all the industrial uses. Learn how they run 
street cars, locomotives and factory trucks. Get an understanding of the important functions 
they perform in submarine boats, isolated lighting. plants, railway switch and signal systems, 
marine applications, etc. This book tells how they are used in central station standby service, 
for starting automobile motors and in ignition systems. Every practical use of the modern 
storage battery is outlined in this treatise. 320 pages, fully illustrated. Price . . . $1.50 

Switchboards. By William Baxter, Jr. 

This book appeals to every engineer and electrician who wants to know the practical side 
of things. It takes up all sorts and conditions of dynamos, connections and circuits, and 
shows by diagram and illustration just how the switchboard should be connected. Includes 
direct and alternating current boards, also those for arc lighting, incandescent and power 
circuits. Special treatment on high voltage boards for power transmission. 2nd Edition. 
190 pages, Illustrated. Price §1.50 

Telephone Construction, Installation, Wiring, Operation and Maintenance. 

By W. H. Radcliffe and H. C. Cushing. 

This book is intended for the amateur, the wireman, or the engineer who desires to establish 
a means of telephonic communication between the rooms of his home, office, or shop. It 
deals only "with such things as may be of use to him rather than with theories. 
Gives the principles of construction and operation of both the Bell and Independent instru- 
ments; approved methods of installing and wiring them; the means of protecting them 
from lightning and abnormal currents; their connection together for operation as series or 
bridgiag stations; and rules for their inspection and maintenance. Line \\dring and the wiring 
and operation of special telephone systems are also treated: Intricate mathematics are 
avoided, and all apparatus, circuits and systems are thoroughly described. The appendix 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 17 



contains definitions of units and terms used in the text. Selected wiring tables, which are very 
helpful, are also included. Among the subjects treated are Construction, Operation, and 
Installation of Telephone Instruments; Inspection and Maintenance of Telephone Instru- 
ments; Telephone Line Wiring; Testing Telephone Line Wires arid Cables; Wiring and 
Operation of Special Telephone Systems, etc. 2nd Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 223 
154 illustrations $1.00 



Wireless Telegraphy and Telephony Simply Explained. By Alfred P. 
Morgan. 

This is undoubtedly one of the most complete and comprehensible treatises on the subject 
ever published, and a close studj' of its pages will enable one to master all the details of the 
wireless transmission of messages. The author has filled a long-felt want and has succeeded 
in furnishing a lucid, comprehensible explanation in simple language of the theory and practice 
of wireless telegraphy and telephony. ,^ 

Among the contents arc: Introductory;'' Wireless Transmission and Reception — The Aerial 
System, Earth Connections — The Transmitting Apparatus, Spark Coils and Transformers, 
Condensers, Helixes, Spark Gaps, Anchor Gaps, Aerial Switches — The Receiving Apparatus, 
Detectors, etc. — Tuning and Coupling, Tuning Coils, Loose Couplers, Variable Condensers, 
Directive Wave Systems — Miscellaneous Apparatus, Telephone Receivers, Range of Stations, 
Static Interference — Wireless Telephones, Sound and Sound Waves, The Vocal Cords and 
Ear — Wireless Telephone, How Sounds Are Changed into Electric Waves — Wireless Tele- 
phones, The Apparatus — Summary. 154 pages, 156 engravings. Price §1.00 

Wiring a House. By Herbert Pratt. 

Shows a house already built; tells just how to start about wiring it; where to begin; what 

wire to use; how to run it according to Insurance Rules; in fact, just the information you 

, need. Directions apply equally to a shop. 4th Edition. Price 25 CentS 

FACTORY MANAGEMENT, ETC. 



Modern Machine Shop Construction, Equipment and Management. By 

O. E. Perrigo, M.E. 

The only work published that describes the modern machine shop or manufacturing plant 
from the time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished product is 
shipped. By a careful study of its thirty-two chapters the practical man may economically 
build, efficiently equip, and successfully manage the modern machine shop or manufacturing 
establishment. .lust the book needed by those contemplating the erection of modern shop 
buildings, the rebuilding and reorganization of old ones, or the introduction of modern shop 
methods, time and cost systems. It is a book written and illustrated by a practical shop 
man for practical shop men who are too busy to read theories and want facts. It is the most 
complete all-around book of its kind ever published. It is a practical book for practical men, 
from the apprentice in the shop to the president in the office. It minutely describes and il- 
lustrates the most simple and yet the most efficient time and cost system yet devised. 2nd 
Revised and Enlarged Edition, just issued. 384 pages, 219 illustrations. Price . . . ^5,00 

FUEL 

Combustion of Coal and the Prevention of Smoke. By Wm. M. Barr. 

This book has been prepared with special reference to the generation of heat by the com- 
bustion of the common fuels found in the United States, and deals particularly with the con- 
ditions necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of bituminous coals in Stationary 
and Locomotive Steam Boilers. 

The presentation of this important subject is systematic and progressive. The arrangement 
of the book is in a series of practical questions to which are appended accurate answers, which 
describe in language, free from technicalities, the several processes involved in the furnace 
combustion of American fuels; it clearly states the essential requisites for perfect combustion, 
and points out the best methods for furnace construction for obtaining the greatest quantity 
of heat from any given quality of coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. Price . . ^l.OO 

Smoke Prevention and Fuel Economy. By Booth and Kershaw. 

A complete treatise for all interested in smoke prevention and combustion, being baced on 
the German work of Ernst Schmatolla, but it is more than a mere translation of the German 
treatise, much being added. The authors show as briefly as possible the principles of fuel 
combustion, the methods which have been and are at present in use, as well as the propei* 
scientific methods for obtaining all the energy in the coal and burning it without smoke. 
Considerable space is also given to the examination of the waste gases, and several of the 
representative English and American mechanical stoker and similar appliances are described. 
The losses carried away in the waste gases are thoroughly analyzed and discussed in the Ap- 
pendix, and abstracts are also here given of various patents on combustion apparatus. The 
book is complete and contains much of value to all who have charge of large plants. 194 pages. 
Illustrated. Price , $3.50 



18 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

GAS ENGINES AND GAS 

Gas, Gasoline and OU Engines. By Gardner D. Hiscox. Revised by 
Victor W. Page, M.E. 

Just issued New 1918 Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Every user of a gas engine needs 
this book. Simple, instructive and right up-to-date. The only complete work on the subject. 
Tells all about internal combustion engineering, treating exhaustively on the design, con- 
struction and practical application of all forms of gas, gasoline, kerosene and crude petroleum- 
oil engines. Describes minutely all auxiliary systems, such as lubrication, carburetion and 
ignition. Considers the theory and management of all forms of explosive motors for sta- 
tionary and marine work, automobiles, aeroplanes and motor-cycles. Includes also Producer 
Gas and Its Production. Invaluable instructions for all students, gas-engine owners, gas- 
engineers, patent experts, designers, mechanics, draftsmen and all ha\dng to do with the 
modern power. Illustrated by over 400 engravings, many specially made from engineering 
drawings, all in correct proportion. 650 pages, 435 engravings. Price .... $^.50 net 

Tlie Gasoline Engine on the Farm: Its Operation, Repair and Uses. By 

Xeno W. Putnam. 

This is a practical treatise on the Gasoline and Kerosene Engine intended for the man who 
wants to know just how to manage his engine and how to apply it to all kinds of farm work 
to the best advantage. 

This book abounds with hints and helps for the farm and suggestions for the home and house- 
wife. Theie is so much of value in this book that it is impossible to adequately describe it 
in such sma21 space. Suffice to say that it is the kind of a book every farmer will appreciate 
and every farm home ought to have. Includes selecting the most suitable engine for farm 
work, its most convenient and efficient installation, with chapters on troubles, their remedies, 
and how to avoid them. The care and management of the farm tractor in plowing, harrowing, 
harvesting and road grading are fully covered; also plain directions are given for handling 
the tractor on the road. Special attention is given to relieving farm life of its drudgery by 
applying power to the disagreeable small tasks which must otherwise be done by hand. Many 
home-made contrivances for cutting wood, supplyimg kitchen, garden, and barn with water, 
loading, hauling and unloading hay, delivering grain to the bins or the feed trough are in- 
cluded; also full directions for making the engine milk the cows, churn, wash, sweep the 
house and clean the windows, etc. Very fully illustrattd with drawings of working parts and 
cuts showing Stationary, Portable and Tractor Engines doing all kinds of farm work. All 
money-making farms utilize power. Learn how to utilize power by reading the pages of this 
book. It is an aid to the result getter, invaluable to the up-to-date farmer, student, black- 
smith, implement dealer and, in fact, all who can apply practical knov/ledge of stationary 
gasoline engines or gas tractors to advantage. 530 pages. Nearly 180 engravings. Price ^j^.OO 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

"Am much pleased with the book and find it to be very complete and up-to-date. I will 
heartily recommend it to students and farmers whom I think would stand in need of such a 
work, as I think it is an exceptionally good one." — N. S. Gardiner, Prof, in Charge, Clemson 
Agr. College of S. C; Dept. of Agri. and Agri. Exp. Station, Clemson College, S. C. 
"I feel that Mr. Putnam's book covers the main points which a farmer should know." — R. T. 
Burdick, Instructor in Agronomy, University of Vermont, Burlington, Vt. 

Gasoline Engines: Their Operation, Use and Care. By A. Hyatt Verrill. 

The simplest, latest and most comprehensive popular work published on Gasoline Engines, 
describing what the Gasoline Engine is; its construction and operation; how to install it; 
how to select it; how to use it and how to remedy troubles encountered. Intended for Owners, 
Operators and Users of Gasoline Motors of all kinds. This work fully describes and illustrates the 
various types of Gasoline Engines used in Motor Boats, Motor Vehicles and Stationary Work. 
The parts, accessories and appliances are described with chapters on ignition, fuel, lubrication, 
operation and engine troubles. Special attention is given to the care, operation and repair 
of motors, with useful hints and suggestions on emergency repairs and makeshifts. A com- 
plete glossary of technical terms and an alphabetically arranged table of troubles and their 
symptoms form most valuable and unique features of this manual. Nearly every illustration 
in the book is original, having been made by the author. Every page is full of interest and 
value. A book which you cannot afford to be without. 275 pages, 152 specially made 
engravings. Price $1.50 

Gas Engine Construction, or How to Build a Half-horsepower Gas Engine. 

Sy Parsell and Weed. 

, A practical treatise of 300 pages describing the theory and principles of the action of Gas 
Engines of various types and the design and construction of a half-horsepower Gas Engine, 
with illustrations of the work in actual progress, together with the dimensioned working draw- 
ings, giving clearly the sizes of the various details: for the student, the scientific investigator, 
and the amateur mechanic. This book treats of the subject more from the standpoint of 
practice than that of theory. The principles of operation of Gas Engines are clearly and 
simply described, and then the actual construction of a half-horsepower engine is taken up, 
step by step, showing in detail the making of the Gas Engine. 3rd Edition. 300 pages. 
Price $2.50 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 19 



How to Run and Install Two- and Four-Cycle Marine Gasoline Engines. 

By C. Vox CuLix. 

Revised and enlarged edition just issued. The object of this little book is to furnish a pocket 
instructor for the beginner, the busy man who uses an engine for pleasure or profit, but who 
does not have the time or inclination for a technical book, but simply to thoroughly under- 
stand how to properly operate, install and care for his own engine. The index refers to each 
trouble, remedy, and subject alphabetically. Being a quick reference to find the cause, remedy 
and prevention for troubles, and to become an expert with his own engine. Pocket size. 
Paper binding. Price 35 CCntS 

Modern Gas Engines and Producer Gas Plants. By R. E. Mathot. 

A guide for the gas engine designer, user, and engineer in the construction, selection, purchase, 
installation, operation, and maintenance of gas engines. More than one book on gas engines 
hq,s been written, but not one has thus far even encroached on the field covered by this book. 
Above all, Mr. Mathot's work is a practical guide. Recognizing the need of a volume that 
would assist the gas engine user in understanding thoroughly the motor upon which he depends 
for power, the author has discussed his subject without the help of any mathematics and with- 
out elaborate theoretical explanations. Every part of the gas engine is described in detail, 
tersely, clearlj', with a thorough understanding of the requirements ot the mechanic. Help- 
ful suggestions as to the purchase of an engine, its installation, care, and operation, form a 
most valuable feature of the work. 320 pages, 175 detailed illustrations. Price . . . $1^.50 

The Modern Gas Tractor. By Victor W. Page, M.E. 

A complete treatise describing all types and sizes of gasoline, kerosene and oil tractors. Con- 
siders design and construction exhaustively, gives complete instructions for care, operation and 
repair, outlines all practical applications on the road and in the field. The best and latest 
work on farm tractors and tractor power plants. A work needed by farmers, students, black- 
smiths, mechanics, salesmen, implement dealers, designers and engineers. 2nd Edition, Re- 
vised. 504 pages, 228 illustrations, 3 folding plates. Price §3.00 

GEARING AND CAMS 

Bevel Gear Tables. By D. Ag. Engstrom. 

A book that will at once commend itself •to mechanics and draftsmen. Does away with all 
the trigonometry and fancy figuring on bevel gears, and makes it easy for anyone to lay them 
out or make them just right. There are 3G full-page tables that show every necessary dimen- 
sion for all sizes or combinations you're apt to need. No puzzling, figuring or guessing. Gives 
placing distance, all the angles (including cutting angles), and the correct cutter to use. A 
copy of this prepares you for anything in the bevel-gear line. 3rd Edition. 66 pages. 
Price §1.00 

Change Gear Devices. By Oscar E. Perrigo. 

A practical book for every designer, draftsman, and mechanic interested in the invention and 
development of the devices for feed changes on the different machines requiring such mechanism. 
All the necessary information on this subject is taken up, analyzed, classified, sifted, and con- 
centrated for the use of busy men who have not the time to go through the masses of irrelevant 
matter with which such a subject is usually encumbered and select such information as will 
be useful to them. 

It shows just what has been done, how it has been done, when it was done, and who did it. 
It saves time in hunting up patent records and re-inventing old ideas. 88 pages. 3rd Edition. 
l^rice $1.00 

Drafting of Cams. By Louis Rouillion. 

The lajang out of cams is a serious problem unless you know how to go at it right. This puts 
you on the right road for practically any kind of cam you are likely to run up against. 3rd 
Edition. Price 35 CCUtS 

HYDRAULICS 

Hydraulic Engineering. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

A treatise on the properties, power, and resources of water for all purposes. Including the 
measurement of streams, the flow of water in pipes or conduits; the horsepower of falling water, 
turbine and impact water-wheels, wave motors, centrifugal, reciprocating and air-lift pumps. 
With 300 figures and diagrams and 36 practical tables. All who are interested in water-works 
development will find this book a useful one, because it is an entirely practical treatise upon 
a subject of present importance and cannot fail in having a far-reaching influence, and for this 
reason should have a place in the working library of every engineer. Among the subjects 
treated are: Historical Hydraulics; Properties of Water; Measurement of the Flow of Streams; 



20 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

Flow from Sub-surface Orifices and Nozzles; Flow of Water in Pipes; Siphons of Various 
Kinds; Dams and Great Storage Reservoirs; City and Town Water Supply; Wells and Their 
Reinforcement; Air-lift Methods of Raising Water; Artesian Wells; Irrigation of Arid Dis- 
tricts; Water Power; Water Wheels; Pumps and Pumping Machinery; Reciprocating Pumps; 
Hydraulic Power Transmission; Hydraulic Mining; Canals; Ditches; Conduits and Pipe 
Lines; Marine Hydraulics; Tidal and Sea Wave Power, etc. 320 pages. Price . . . $4.00 

ICE AND REFRIGERATION 

Pocketbook of Refrigeration and Ice Making. By A. J. Wallis-Taylor. 

This is one of the latest and most comprehensive reference books published on the subject of 
refrigeration and cold storage. It explains the properties and refrigerating effect of the dif- 
ferent fluids in use, the management of refrigerating machinery and the construction and insu- 
lation of cold rooms with their required pipe surface for different degrees of cold;, freezing 
mixtures and non-freezing brines, temperatures of cold rooms for all kinds of provisions, cold 
storage charges for all classes of goods, ice making and storage of ice, data and memoranda 
for constant reference by refrigerating engineers, with nearly one hundred tables containing 
valuable references to every fact and condition requiied in the installment and operation of a 
refrigerating plant. New edition just published. Price $1.50 

INVENTIONS— PATENTS 

Inventors' Manual: How to Make a Patent Pay. 

This is a book designed as a guide to inventors in perfecting their inventions, taking out their 
patents and disposing of them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor's Circular nor a Patent 
Broker's Advertisement. No advertisements of any description appear in the work. It is a 
book containing a quarter of a century's experience of a successful inventor, together with 
notes based upon the experience of many other inventors. 

Among the subjects treated in this work are: How to Invent. How to Secure a Good Patent. 
Value of Good Invention. How to Exhibit an Invention. How to Interest Capital. How 
to Estimate the Value of a Patent. Value of Design Patents. Value of Foreign Patents. 
Value of Small Inventions. Advice on Selling Patents. Advice on the Formation of Stock 
Companies. Advice on the Formation of Limited Liability Companies. Advice on Disposing 
of Old Patents. Advice as to Patent Attorneys. Advice as to Selling Agents. Forms of 
Assignments. License and Contracts. State Laws Concerning Patent Rights. 1900 Census 
of the United States by Counts of Over 10*000 Population. Revised Edition. 120 pages. 
Price $1.00 

KNOTS 

Knots, Splices and Rope Work. By A. Hyatt Verrill. 

This is a practical book giving complete and simple directions for making all the most useful 
and ornamental knots in common use, with chapters on Splicing, Pointing, Seizing, Serving, 
etc. This book is fully illustrated with 154 original engravings, which show how each knot, 
tie or splice is formed, and its appearance when finished. The book will be found of the greatest 
value to Campers, Yachtsmen, Travelers, Boy Scouts, in fact, to anyone having occasion to 
use or handle rope or knots for any purpose. The book is thoroughly reliable and practical, 
and is not only a guide, but a teacher. It is the standard work on the subject. Among the 
contents are: 1. Cordage, Kinds of Rope. Construction of Rope, Parts of Rope Cable and 
Bolt Rope. Strength of Rope, Weight of Rope. 2. Simple Knots and Bends. Terms Used 
in Hcvndling Rope. Seizing Rope. 3. Ties and Hitches. 4. Noose, Loops and Mooring 
Knots. 5. Shortenings, Grommets and Salvages. 6. Lashings, Seizings and Splices. 7. 
. Fancy Knots and Rope Work. 128 pages, 150 original engravings. 2nd Revised Edition. 

Pri.^.3 75 cents 

LATHE WORK 

Lathe Design, Construction, and Operation, with Practical Examples of 
Lathe Work. By Oscar E. Perrigo. 

A new, revised edition, and the only complete American work on the subject, written by a 
man who knows not only how work ought to be done, but who also knows how to do it, and 
how to convey this knowledge to others. It is strictly up-to-date in its descriptions and 
illustrations. Lathe history and the relations of the lathe to manufacturing are given; 
also a description of the various devices for feeds and thread-cutting mechanisms from early 
efforts in this direction to the present time. Lathe design is thoroughly discussed, includ- 
ing back gearing, driving cones, thread-cutting gears, and all the essential elements of the 
modern lathe. The classification of lathes is taken up, giving the essential differences of 
the several types of lathes including, as is usually understood, engine lathes, bench lathes, 
■ speed lathes, forge lathes, gap lathes, pulley lathes, forming lathes, multiple-spindle lathes. 
rapid-reduction lathes, precision lathes, turret lathes- special lathes, electrically driven lathes, 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 21 

etc. In addition to the complete exposition on construction and design, much practical 
matter on lathe installation, care and operation has been incorporated in the enlarged new 
edition. All kinds of lathe attachments for drilling, nulling, etc., are described and com- 
plete instructions are given to enable the novice machinist to grasp the art of lathe operation 
as well as the principles involved in design. A number of difficult machining operations 
are described at length and illustrated. The new edition has nearly 500 pages and 350 illus- 
trations. Price $'i.50 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

"This is a lathe book from beginning to end, and is just the kind of a book which one de- 
lights to consult — a masterly treatment of the subject in hand." — Enfjineeritig A'eu's. 
"This work will be of exceptional interest to any one who is interested in lathe practice, as 
one very seldom sees such a complete treatise on a subject as this is on the lathe." — Cana- 
dian Machinery. 

Practical Metal Turning. By Joseph G. Horner. 

A work of 404 pages, fully illustrated, covering in a comprehensive manner the modern prac- 
tice of machining metal parts in the lathe, including the regular engine lathe, its essential 
design, its uses, its tools, its attachments, and the manner of holding the work and perform- 
ing the operations. The modernized engine lathe, its methods, tools and great range of accu- 
rate work. The turret lathe, its tools, accessories and methods of performing its functions. 
Chapters on special work, grinding, tool holders, speeds, feeds, modern tool steels, etc. 
Second edition $3.50 

Turning and Boring Tapers. By Fred H. Colvin. 

There are two ways to turn tapers; the right way and one other. This treatise has to do 
with the right way; it tells you how to start the work properly, how to set the lathe, what 
tools to use and how to use them, and forty and one other little things that you should know. 
Fourth edition 25 CCUtS 

LIQUID AIR 

Liquid Air and the Liquefaction of Gases. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This book gives the history of the theory, discovery and manufacture of Liquid Air, and 

contains an illustrated description of all the experiments that have excited the wonder of 

audiences all over the country. It shows how liquid air, like water, is carried hundreds of 

miles and is handled in open buckets. It tells what may be expected from it in the near 

future. 

A boo'v that renders simple one of the most perplexing chemical problems of the century. 

Startling developments illustrated by actual experiments. 

It is not only a work of scientific interest and authority, but is intended for the general reader, 

being written in a popular style — easily understood by every one. Second edition. 365 

pages. Price $3.00 

LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING 



Air-Brake Catechism. By Robert H. Blackall. 

This book is a standard text-book. It covers the Westinghouse Air-Brake Equipment, 
including the No. 5 and the No. 6 E.-T. Locomotive Brake Equipment; the K (Quick Ser- 
vice) Triple Valve for Freight Service; and the Cross-Compouncl Pump. The operation of 
all Darts of the apparatus is explained in detail, and a practical way of finding their pecu- 
liarities and defects, with a proper remedy, is given. It contains 2,000 questions with their 
answers, which will enable any railroad man to pass any examination on the subject of 
Air Brakes. Endorsed and used by air-brake instructors and jjxaminers on nearly every 
railroad in the United States. Twenty-sixth edition. 411 pages, fully illustrated with 
colored plates and diagrams. Price $3.00 

American Compound Locomotives. By Fred H. Colvin. 

The only book on compgunds for the engineman or sho'^man that shows in a plain, prac- 
tical way the various features of compound locomotives in use. Shows how they are made, 
what to do when they break down or balk. Contains sections as follows: A Bit of History. 
Theory of Compounding Steam Cylinders. Baldwin Two-Cylinder Compound. Pittsburg 
Two-Cylinder Compound. Rhose Island Compound. Richmond Compound. Rogers Com- 
pound. Schenectady Two-Cylinder Compound. Vaucluin Compound. Tandem Compounds. 
Baldwin Tandem. The Colvin-Wi<;htman Tandem. Schenectady Tandem. Balanced 
Locomotives. Baldwin Balanced Compound. Plans for Balancing. Locating Blows. 
Breakdowns. Reducing Valves. Drifting. Valve Motion. Disconnecting. Power of Com- 
pound Locomotives. Practical Notes. 

Fully illustrated and containing ten' special "Duotone" inserts on heavy Plate Paper, show- 
ing different types of Compounds. 142 pages. Price $1.00 



22 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

Application of Highly Superheated Steam to Locomotives. By Robert 

Garbe. 

A practical book which cannot be recommended too highly to those motive-power men who 
are anxious to maintain the highest efficiency in their locomotives. Contains special chap- 
ters on Generation of Highly Superheated Steam; Superheated Steam and the Two-Cylinder 
Simple Engine; Compounding and Superheating; Designs of Locomotive Superheaters; 
Constructive Details of Locomotives Using Highly Superheated Steam. Experimental and 
"Working Results. Illustrated with folding plates and tables. Cloth. Price .... $Z,5Q 

Combustion of Coal and the Prevention of Smoke. By Wm. M. Barr. 

This book has been prepared with special reference to the generation of heat by the com- 
bustion of ^he common fuels found in the United States and deals particularly with the 
conditions necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of bituminous coal in Sta- 
tionary and Locomotive Steam Boilers. _ 

Presentation of this important subject is systematic and progressive. The arrangement of 
the book is in a series of practical questions to which are appended accurate answers, which 
describe in language free from technicalities the several processes involved in the furnace 
combustion of American fuels; it clearly states the essential requisites for perfect combus- 
tion, and points out the best methods of furnace construction for obtaining the greatest 
quantity of heat from any given quality of coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated.^ 
Price ^l.Q(J 

Diary of a Round-House Foreman. By T. S. Reilly. 

This is the greatest book of railroad experiences ever published. _ Containing a fund of in- 
formation and suggestions along the line of handling men, organizing, etc., that one cannot 
afford to miss. 176 pages. Price $1.00 

Link Motions, Valves and Valve Setting. By Fred H. Colvin, Associate Editor 
of "American Machinist." 

A handy book for the engineer or machinist that clears up the mysteries of valve setting. 
Shows the different valve gears in use, how they work, and why. Piston and slide valves 
of different types are illustrated and explained. A book that every railroad man in the 
motive-power department ought to have. Contains chapters on Locomotive Link Motion, 
Valve Movements, Setting Slide Valves, Analysis by Diagrams, Modern Practice, Slip of 
Block, Slice Valves, Piston Valves, Setting Piston Valves, Joy-Allen Valve Gear, Walschaert 
Valve Gear, Gooch Valve Gear, Alfree-Hubbell Valve Gear, etc., etc. Fully illustrated. 

Price 50 cents 

Locomotive Boiler Construction. By Frank A. Kleinhans. 

The construction of boilers in general is treated and, following this, the locomotive boiler 
is taken up in the order in which its various parts go through the shop. Shows all types 
of boilers used; gives details of construction; practical facts, such as life of riveting, punches 
and dies; work done per day, allowance for bending and flanging sheets and other data. 
Including the recent Locomotive Boiler Inspection Laws and Examination Questions with 
their answers for Government Inspectors. Contains chapters on Laying-Out Work; Flang- 
ing and Forging; Punching; Shearing; Plate Planing; General Tables; Finishing Parts; 
Bending; Machinery Parts; Riveting; Boiler Details; Smoke-Box Details, Assembling 
and Calking; Boiler-Shop Machinery, etc., etc. 

There isn't a man who has anything to do with boiler work, either new or repair work, who 
doesn't need this book. The manufacturer, superintendent, foreman and boiler worker — 
all need it. No matter what the type of bioler, you'll find a mint of information that you 
wouldn't be without. Over 400 pages, five large folding plates. Price $3.00 

Locomotive Breakdowns and their Remedies. By Geo. L. Fowler. Re- 
vised by Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. Just issued Revised pockef 
edition. 

It is out of the question to try and tell you about every subject that is covered in this pock el 
edition of Locomotive Breakdowns. Just imagine all the common troubles that an engineer 
may expect to happen some time, and then add all of the unexpected ones, troubles that could 
occur, but that you have never thought about, and you will find that they are all treated with 
the very best methods of repair. Walschaert Locomotive 'Valve Gear Troubles, Electric 
Headlight Troubles, as well as Questions and Answers on the Air Brake are all included. 312 
pages. 8th Revised Edition. Fully illustrated. Price $1.00 

Locomotive Catechism. By Robert Grimshaw. 

The revised edition of "Locomotive Catechism," by Robert Grimshaw, is a New Book from 
Cover to Cover. It contains twice as many pages and double the nurnber of illustrations of 
previous editions. Includes the greatest amount of practical information ever published on 
the construction and management of modern locomotives. Specially Prepared Chapters on 
the Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear, the Air-Brake Equipment and the Electric HeadUght 
are given. 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 23 

It commends itself at once to every Engineer and Fireman, and to all who are going in for 
examination or promotion. In plain language, with full, complete answers, not only all tlie 
questions asked by the examining engineer are given, but those which the young and less 
experienced would ask the veteran, and which old hands ask as "stickers." It is a veritable 
Encyclopedia of the Locomotive, is entirely free from mathematics, easily understood and 
thoroughly up to date. Contains over 4,000 Examination Questions with their Answers. 
825 pages, 437 illustrations, and 3 folding plates. 28th Revised Edition. Price ^3.^0 

Practical Instructor and Reference Book for Locomotive Firemen and 
Engineers. By Chas. F. Lockhart. 

An entirely new boolc on the Locomotive. It appeals to every railroad man, as it tells him 
how things are done and the right way to do them. Written by a man who has had years of 
practical experience in locomotive shops and on the road firing and running. The information 
given in tliis book cannot be found in any other similar treatise. Eight hundred and fifty-one 
questions with their answers are included, which will prove specially helpful to those preparing 
for examination. Practical information on: The Construction and Operation of Locomotives, 
Breakdowns and their Remedies, Air Brakes and Valve Gears. Rules and Signals are liandled 
in a thorough manner. As a book of reference it cannot be excelled. The book is divided 
into six parts, as follows: 1. The Fireman's Duties. 2. General Description of the Locomotive. 
3. Breakdowns and their Remedies. 4. Air Brakes. 5. Extracts from Standard Rules. 
6. Questions for Examination. The 851 questions have been carefully selected and arranged. 
These cover the examinations required by the different railroads. 368 pages, 88 illustrations. 
Price $1.50 

Prevention of Railroad Accidents, or Safety in Railroading. By George 
Bradshaw. 

This book is a heart-to-heart talk with Railroad Employees, dealing with facts, not theories, 
and showing the men in the ranks, from every-day experience, how accidents occur and how 
they may be avoided. The book is illustrated with seventy original photographs and drawings 
showing the safe and unsafe methods of work. No visionary schemes, no ideal pictures. 
Just Plain Facts and Practical Suggestions are given. Every railroad employee who reads the 
book is a better and safer man to have in railroad service. It gives just the information which 
will be the means of preventing many injuries and deaths. All railroad employees should 
procure a copy, read it, and do their part in preventing accidents. 169 pages. Pocket size. 
Fully illustrated. Price 50 CCntS 

Train Rule Examinations Made Easy. By G. E. Collingwood. 

This is the only practical work on train rules in print. Every detail is covered, and puzzling 
points are explained in simple, comprehensive language, making it a practical tre;uise for t!ie 
Train Dispatcher, Engineman, Trainman, and all others who have to do with the inovempnts 
of trains. Contains complete and reliable information of the Standard Code of Train Rules 
for single track. Shows Signals in Colors, as used on the different roads. Explains fully the 
practical application of train orders, giving a clear and definite understanding of all orders 
which may be used. The meaning and necessity for certain rules are explained in such a 
manner that the student may know beyond a doubt the rights conferred under any orders he 
may receive or the action required by certain rules. As nearly all roads require trainmen to 
pass regular examinations, a complete set of examination questions, with their answers, are 
included. These will enable the student to pass the required examinations with credit to 
himself and the road for which he works. 2nd Edition, Revised. 256 pages, fully illustrated, 
with Train Signals in Colors. Price $1,35 

The Walschaert and Other Modern Radial Valve Gears for Locomotives. 

By Wm. W. Wood. 

If you would thoroughly understand the "Walschaert Valve Gear you should possess a copy 
of this book, as the author takes the plainest form of a steam engine — a stationary erigine in 
the rough, that will only turn its crank in one direction — and from it builds up, with the read- 
er's help, a modern locomotive equipped with the Walschaert Valve Gear, complete. The 
points discussed are clearly illustrated: Two large folding plates that show the positions of 
the valves of both inside or outside admission type, as well as the links and other parts of the 
gear when the crank is at nine different points in its revolution, are especially valuable in mak- 
ing the movement clear. These employ sliding cardboard models which are contained in a 
pocket in the cover. 

The book is divided into five general divisions, as follows: 1. Analysis of the gear. 2. De- 
signing and erecting the gear. 3. Advantages of the gear. 4. Questions and answers relating 
to the Walschaert Valve Gear. 5. Setting valves with the Walschaert Valve Gear; the three 
primary types of locomotive valve motion; modern radial valve gears other than the Wal- 
schaert; the Hobart All-free Valve and Valve Gear, with questions and answers on breakdowns; 
the Baker-Pilliod Valve Gear; the Improved Baker-Pilliod Valve Gear, with questions and 
answers on breakdowns. 

The que.stions with full answers given will be esnerially valuable to firemen and engineers in 
preparing for an examination for promotion. 245 pages. 3rd Revised Edition. Price §1.50 



24 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO 



Westinghouse E-T Air-Brake Instruction Pocket Book. By Wm. W. Wood, 
Air-Brake Instructor. 

Here is a book for the railroad man, and the man who aims to be one. It is without doubt 
the only complete work published on the Westinghouse E-T Locomotive Brake Equipment. 
Written by an Air-Brake Instructor who knows just what is needed. It covers the subject 
thoroughly. Everything about the New Westinghouse Engine and Tender Brake Equip- 
ment, including the standard No. 5 and the Perfected No. 6 style of brake, is treated in detail. 
Written in plain English and profusely illustrated with Colored Plates, which enable one to 
trace the flow of pressures throughout the entire equipment. The best' book ever published 
on the Air Brake. Equally good for the beginner and the advanced engineer. Will pass any 
one through any examination. It informs and enlightens you on every point. Indispensable 
to every engineman and trainman. 

Contains examination questions and answers on the E-T equipment. Covering what the E-T 
Brake is. How it should be operated. What to do when defective. Not a question can be 
asked of the engineman up for promotion, on either the No. 5 or the No. 6 E-T equipment, 
that is not asked and answered in the book. If you want to thoroughly understand the E-T 
equipment get a copy of this book. It covers every detail. Makes Air-Brake troubles and 
examinations easy. Price $1.5(^ 

MACHINE-SHOP PRACTICE 

American Tool Making and Interchangeable Manufacturing. By J. V. 

WOODWORTH. 

A "shoppy" book, containing no theorizing, no problematical or experimental devices. There 
are no badly proportioned and impossible diagrams, no catalogue cuts, but a valuable collec- 
tion of drawings and descriptions of devices, the rich fruits of the author's own experience. 
In its 500-odd pages the one subject only. Tool Making, and whatever relates thereto, is dealt 
with. The work stands without a rival. It is a complete, practical treatise, on the art of 
American Tool Making and system of interchangeable manufacturing as carried on to-day in 
the United States. In it are described and illustrated all of the different types and classes of 
small tools, fixtures, devices, and special appliances which are in general use in all machine- 
manufacturing and metal-working establishments where economy, capacity, and interchange- 
ability in the production of machined metal parts are imperative. The science of jig making 
is exhaustively discussed, and particular attention is paid to drill jigs, boring, profiling and 
milling fixtures and other devices in which the parts to be machined are located and fastened 
within the contrivances. All of the tools, fixtures, and devices illustrated and described have 
been or are used for the actual production of work, such as parts of drill presses, lathes, patented 
machinery, typewriters, electrical apparatus, mechanical appliances, brass goods, composition 
parts, mould products, sheet-metal articles, drop-forgings, jewelry, watches, medals, coins, etc. 
531 pages. Price $4.00 

HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL ENGINEERING AND ALLIED 
TRADES. Edited by Joseph G. Horner, A.M.I., M.E. 

This set of five volumes contains about 2,500 pages with thousands of illustrations, including 
diagrammatic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details. This work covers the 
entire practice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The best known experts in all branches 
of engineering have contributed to these volumes. The Cyclopedia is admirably well adapted 
to the needs of the beginner and the self-taught practical man, as well as the mechanical 
engineer, designer, draftsman, shop superintendent, foreman, and machinist. The work will 
be found a means of advancement to any progressive man. It is encyclopedic in scope, thor- 
ough and practical in its treatment on technical subjects, simple and clear in its descriptive 
matter, and without unnecessary technicalities or formulae. The articles are as brief as may 
be and yet give a reasonably clear and explicit statement of the subject, and are written by 
men who have had ample practical experience in the matters of which they write. It tells 
you all you want to know about engineering and tells it so simply, so clearly, so concisely, that 
one cannot help but understand. As a work of reference it is without a peer. Complete 
set of five volumes, price $!S5.00 

The Modern Machinist. By John T. Usher. 

This is a book, showing by plain description and by profuse engravings made expressly for 
the work, all that is best, most advanced, and of the highest eflBciency in modern machine- 
shop practice, tools and implements, showing the way by which and through which, as Mr. 
Maxim says, "American machinists have become and are the finest mechanics in the world." 
Indicating as it does, in every line, the familiarity of the author with every detail of daily 
experience in the shop, it cannot fail to be of service to any man practically connected with 
the shaping or finishing of metals. 

There is nothing experimental or visionary about the book, all devices being in actual use 
and giving good results. It might be called a compendium of shop methods, showing a 
variety of special tools and appliances which will give new ideas to many mechanics, from 
the superintendent down to the man at the bench. It will be found a valuable addition to 
any machinist's library, and should be consulted whenever a new or difficult job is to be 
done, whether it is boring, milling, turning, or planing, as they are all treated in a practical 
manner. Fifth edition. 320 pages. 250 illustrations. Price $!S.50 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 25 



THE WHOLE FIELD OF MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS 
COVERED BY MR. HISCOX'S TWO BOOKS 

We publish two books by Gardner D. Hiscox (luU icill keep you from "inventing" things that have 
^ been done before, and suggest ways of doing things that you have not thought of before. Many a 

man spends time and money pondering over some jnechanical problem, only to learn, after he 
has solved the problem, that the same thing has been accomplished and put in practice by others 
% long before. Time and money spent in an effort to accomplish what has already been accomplished 
are time and money LOST. The whole field of mechanics, every known mechanical movement, 
and practically every device are covered by these two books. If the thing you want has been invented, 
it is illustrated in them. If it hasn't been invented, then you'll find in them the nearest things 
to what you want, some movements or devices that will apply in your case, perhaps; or which 
will give you a key from which to work. No book or set of books ever published is of more real 
value to the Inventor, Draftsman, or practical Mechanic than the two volumes described below. 

Mechanical Movements, Powers, and Devices. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is a collection of 1,890 engravings of different mechanical motions and appliances, ac- 
companied by appropriate text, making it a book of great value to the inventor, the drafts- 
man^ and to all readers with mechanical tastes. The book is divided into eighteen sections 
or chapters, in which the subject-matter is classified under the following heads: Mechanical 
Powers; Transmission of Power; Measurement of Power; Steam Power; Air Power Appli- 
ances; Electric Power and Construction; Navigation and Roads; Gearing; Motion and 
Devices" Controlling Motion; Horological; Mining; Mill and Factory Appliances; Con- 
struction and Devices; Drafting Devices; Miscellaneous Devices, etc. 15th Edition. 400 
octavo pages. Price $3.00 

Mechanical Appliances, Mechanical Movements and Novelties of Construc- 
tion. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is a supplementary volume to the one upon mechanical movements. Unlike the first 
volume, which is more elementary in character, this volume contains illustrations and de- 
scriptions of many combinations of motions and of mechanical devices and appliances found 
in different lines of machinery, each device being shown by a line drawing with a deseription 
showing its working parts and the method of operation. From the multitude of devices de- 
scribed and illustrated might be mentioned, in passing, such items as conveyors and elevators. 
Pony brakes, thermometers, various types of boilers, solar engines, oil-fuel burners, condensers, 
evaporators, Corliss and other valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors of various 
descriptions, air ships, motors and dynamos, automobile and motor bicycles, railway lock 
signals, car couplers, link and gear motions, ball bearings, breech-block mechanism for heavy 
guns, and a large accumulation of others of equal importance. One thousand specially made 
engravings. 396 octavo pages. Fourth edition. Price $3.00 

Machine-Shop Tools and Shop Practice. By W. H. Vandervoort. 

A work of 555 pages and 673 illustrations, describing in every detail the construction, opera- 
tion and manipulation of both hand and machine tools. Includes chapters on filing, fit- 
ting and scraping surfaces; on drills, reamers, taps and dies; the lathe and its tools: planers, 
shapers, and their tools; milling machines and cutters; gear cutters and gear cutting; drill- 
ing machines and drill work; grinding machines and their work; hardening and tempering; 
gearing, belting and transmission machinery; useful data and tables. Sixth edition. 
Price $3.00 

Machine-Shop Arithmetic. By Colvin-Cheney. 

This is an arithmetic of the things you have to do with daily. It tells you plainly about: 
how to find areas in figures; how to find surface or volume of balls or spheres; handy ways 
for calculating; about compound gearing; cutting screw threads on any lathe; drilling for 
taps; speeds' of drills; taps, emery wheels, grindstones, milling cutters, etc.; all about the 
Metric system with conversion tables; properties of metals; strength of bolts and nuts; 
decimal equivalent of an inch. All sorts of machine-shop figuring and 1,001 other things, 
any one of which ought to be worth more than the price of this book to you, as it saves you 
the trouble of bothering the boss. 6th Edition. 131 pages. Price 50 CCntS 

Modern Machine-Shop Construction, Equipment and Management. By 

Oscar E. Perrigo. 

The only work published that describes the Modern Shop or Manufacturing Plant from the 
time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished product is shipped. Just 
the book needed by those contemplating the erection of modern shop buildings, the rebuilding 
and reorganization of old ones, or the introduction of Modern Shop Methods, time and cost 
systems. It is a book written and illustrated by a practical shop man for practical shop men 
who are too busy to read theories and want facts. It is the most complete all-round book of 
its kind ever published. Second Edition, Revised. 384 large quarto pages. 219 original and 
specially made illustrations. 2nd Re\nsed and Enlarged Edition. Price $5.00 



26 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

Modern Milling Machines: Their Design, Construction, and Operation. 

By Joseph G. Horner. 

This book describes and illustrates the Milling Machine and its work in such a plain, clear 
and forceful manner, and illustrates the subject so clearly and completely, that the up-to- 
date machinist, student or mechanical engineer cannot afford to do without the valuable 
information which it contains. It describes not only the early machines of this class, but notes 
their gradual development into the splendid machines of the present day, giving the design 
and construction of the various types, forms, and special features produced by prominent 
manufacturers, American and foreign. 304 pages, 300 illustrations. Cloth. Price . . . $4.00 

** Shop Kinks." By Robert Grimshaw. 

A bo9k of 400 pages and 222 illustrations, being entirely different from any other book on 
machine-shop practice. Departing from conventional style, the author avoids universal 
or common shop usage and limits his work to showing special ways of doing things better, 
more cheaply and more rapidly than usual. As a result the advanced methods of represen- 
tative establishments of the world are placed at the disposal of the reader. This book shows 
the proprietor where large savings are possible, and how products may be improved. To 
the employee it holds out suggestions that, properly applied, will hasten his advancement. 
No shop can afford to be without it. It bristles with valuable wrinkles and helpful sugges- 
tions. It will benefit all, from apprentice to proprietor. Every machinist, at any age, should 
study its pages. Fifth edition. Price $3.50 

Threads and Thread Cutting. By Colvin and Stabel. 

This clears up many of the mysteries of thread-cutting, such as double and triple threads, 
internal threads, catching threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful hint? and several 
tables. Third edition. Price .25 CCntS 

MANUAL TRAINING 

Economics of Manual Training. By Louis Rouillion. 

The only book published that gives just the information needed by all interested in Manual 
Training, regarding Buildings, Equipment, and Supplies. Shows exactly what is needed 
for all grades of the work from the Kindergarten to the High and Normal School. Gives 
itemized lists of everything used in JManual Training Work and tells just what it ought to 
cost. Also shows where to buy supplies, etc. Contains 174 pages, stnd is fully illustrated. 
Second edition. Price $1.50 



MARINE ENGINEERING 

The Naval Architect's and Shipbuilder's Pocket Book of Formulae, Rules, 
and Tables and Marine Engineer's and Surveyor's Handy Book of 
Reference. By Clement IMackrow and Lloyd Woollard. 

The eleventh Revised and Enlarged Edition of this most comprehensive work has just been 
issued. It is absolutely indispensable to all engaged in the Shipbuilding Industry, as it con- 
denses into a compact form all data and formulae that are ordinarily required. The book is 
completely up to date, including among other subjects a section on Aeronautics. 7-50 pages, 
limp leather binding. Price $5.00 UCt 

Marine Engines and Boilers: Their Design and Construction. By Dr. G. 

Bauer, Leslie S. Robertson and S. Bryan Donkin. 

In the words of Dr. Bauer, the present work owes its origin to an oft felt want of a condensed 
treatise embodying the theoretical and practical rules used in designing marine engines and 
boilers. The need of such a work has been felt by most engineers engaged m the construction 
and working of marine engines, not onlv by the younger men, but also by those of greater ex- 
perience. The fact that the original German work was written by the chief engineer ot the 
famous Vulcan Works, Stettin, is in itself a guarantee that this book is m all respects thor- 
oughly up-to-date, and that it embodies all the information which is necessary for the design 
and construction of the highest types of marine engines and boilers. It may be said that the 
motive power which Dr. Bauer has placed in the fast German liners that have been turned out 
of late years from the Stettin Works represent the very best practice m marine engineering ot 
the present day. The work is clearly written, thoroughly systematic, theoretically soiind; 
while the character of the plans, drawings, tables, and statistics is without reproach, ihe 
illustrations are careful reproductions from actual working drawings, with some well- executed 
photographic views of completed engines and boilers. 744 pages, .550 illustrations and num- 
erous tables. Cloth. Price $9.00 net 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 27 

MINING 

Ore Deposits, with a Cliapter on Hints to Prospectors. By J. P. Johnson. 

This book gives a condensed account of the ore deposits at present known in South Africa. 
It is also intended as a guide to the prospector. Only an elementary knowledge of geology 
and some mining experience are necessary in order to understand this work. With these 
qualifications, it will materially assist one in his search for metalliferous mineral occurrences 
and, so far as simple ores are concerned, should enable one to form some idea of the possi- 
bilities of any he may find. Illustrated. Cloth. Price ^2.00 

Practical Coal Mining. By T. H. Cockin. 

An important work, containing 42S pages and 213 illustrations, complete with practical details, 
which will intuitively impart to the reader not only a general knowledge of the principles 
of coal mining, but also considerable insight into allied subjects. The treatise is positively 
up-to^ate in every instance, and should be in the hands of every colliery engineer, geologist, 
mine operator, superintendent, foreman, and all others who are interested in or connected with 
the industry. 3d Edition. Cloth. Price ^2*50 

Physics and Chemistry of Mining. By T. H. Byrom. 

A practical work for the use of all preparing for exatttioations in mining or qualifying for 
colliery managers' certificates. The aim of the author in this excellent book is to place clearly 
before the reader useful and authoritative data which will render him valuable assistance in 
his studies. The only work of its kind published. The information incorporated in it will 
prove of the greatest practical utility to students, mining engineers, colliery managers, and 
all others who are specially interested in the present-day treatment of mining problems. 160 
pages, illustrated. Price $2.00 

PATTERN MAKING 

Practical Pattern Making. By F. ^X. Barrows. 

This book, now in its second edition, is a comprehensive and entirely practical treatise on the 
subject of pattern making, illustrating pattern work in both wood and metal, and with definite 
instructions on the use of plaster of paris in the trade. It gives specific and detailed descrip- 
tions of the materials used by pattern makers, and describes the tools, both those for the 
bench and the more interesting machine tools, having complete chapters on the Lathe, the 
Circular Saw. and the Band Saw. It gives many examples of pattern work, each one fully 
illustrated and explained with much detail. These examples, in their great variety, offer much 
that will be found of interest to all pattern makers, and especially to the younger ones, who 
are seeking information on the more advanced branches of their trade. 

In this second edition of the work will be found much that is new, even to those who have 
long practised this exacting trade. In the description of patterns as adapted to the Moulding 
jNIachine many difficulties which have long prevented the rapid and economical production of 
castings are overcome; and this great, new branch of the trade is given much space. Strip- 
ping plate and stool plate work and the less expensive vibrator, or rapping plate work, are 
all explained in detail. 

Plain, cvery-day rules for lessening the cost of patterns, with a complete system of cost 
keeping, a detailed method of marking, applicable to all branches of the trade, with com- 
plete information showing what the pattern is, its specific title, its cost, date of production, 
material of which it is made, the number of pieces and core-boxes, and its location in ths 
pattern safe, all condensed into a most complete card record, with cross index. 
The book closes with an original and practical method for the inventory and valuation of 
patterns. Containing nearly 350 pages and 170 illustrations. Price $2.00 

PERFTOIERY 

Perfumes and Cosmetics: Their Preparation and Manufacture. By G. W. 

AsKiNSOx, Periumer, 

A comprehensive treatise, in which there has been nothing omitted that could be of value 
♦'•:e ] crun.cr or rr.anufacturer of toilet preparations. Complete directions for making 
b:i:ia..cr. !.icf i crfun.es, smelling-salts, sachets, furr.ij:;ating r^stillcs; preparations for the 
care of t'.ic skin, the n.outh, the hair, cosmetics, hair dyes and other toilet articles are given, 
rilso a detailed description of aromatic sub.stances; their nature, tests of purity, and whole- 
some iiianufai lure, including a chapter on synthetic products, with formulas for their use. 
A book of general as wc'.l as professional interest, meeting the wants not only of the drug- 
gist and perfume n)anufacturer, but also of the general public. Among the contents are: 
1. The History of Perfumery. 2. About Aromatic Substances in General. 3. Odors from 
the Vegetable Kintrdom. 4. The Aromatic Vegetable Substances Employed in Perfun;cry. 
5. The Animal Substances Used in Perfumery. 6. The Chemical Products Used in Perfumery. 
7. The Extraction of ('dors. S. The Special Characteristics of Aromatic Substances. 9 The 
-Adulteration of Essential Oils and Their Recognition. 10. Synthetic Products. 11. Table 
of Phy.«ical Properties of .Aromatic Chemicals. 12. The Essences or Extracts Employed 
in Perfumery. 13. Directions for Making the Most Important Essences and Extracts. 



28 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

14. The Division of Perfumery. 15. The Manufacture of Handkerchief Perfumes. 16. For- 
mulas for Handkerchief Perfumes. 17. Ammoniacal and Acid Perfumes. 18. Dry Per- 
fumes. 19. Formulas for Dry Perfumes. 20. The Perfumes Used for Fumigation. 21. An- 
tiseptic and Therapeutic Value of Perfumes. 22. Classification of Odors. 23. feome Special 
Perfumery Products. 24. Hygiene and Cosmetic Perfumery. 25. Preparations for the Care 
of the Skin. 26. Manufacture of Casein. 27. Formulas for Emulsions. 28. Formulas for 
Cream. 29. Formulas for Meals, Pastes and Vegetable Milk. 30. Preparations Used for 
the Hair. 31. Formulas for Hair Tonics and Restorers. 32. Pomades and Hair Oils. 
33. Formulas for the Manufacture of Pomades and Hair Oils. 34. Hair Dyes and Depila- 
tories. 35. Wax Pomades, Bandolines and Brilliantines. 36. Skin Cosmetics and 
Face Lotions. 37. Fi'eparations for the Nails. 38. Water Softeners and Bath Salts. 39. 
Preparations for the Care of the Mouth. 40. The Colors Used in Perfumery. 41. The Uten- 
sils Used in the Toilet. Fourth edition, much enlarged and brought up to date. Nearly 
400 pages, illustrated. Price. . . .' $5.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

"The most satisfactory work on the subject of Perfumery that wc have ever seen." 
"We feel safe in saying that here is a book on Perfumery that will not disappoint you, for 
it has practical and excellent formulse that are within your ability to prepare readily." 
"We recommend the volume as worthy of confidence, and say that no purchaser will be dis- 
appointed in securing from its pages good value for its cost, and a large dividend on the same, 
even if he should use but one per cent, of its working formula. There is money in it for every 
user of its information." — Pharmaceutical Record. 

PLUMBING 

Mechanical Drawing for Plumbers. By R. M. Starbuck. 

A 'oncise, comprehensive and practical treatise on the subject of mechanical drawing in its 
various modern applications to the work of all who are in any way connected with the plumb- 
in^ trade. Nothing will so help the plumber in estimating and in explaining work to cus- 
tomers and workmen as a knowledge of drawing, and to the workman it is of inestimable 
value if he is to rise above his position to positions of greater responsibility. Among the 
chapters contained are: 1. Value to plumber of knowledge of drawing; tools required and 
their use; common views needed in mechanical drawing. 2. Perspective versus mechanical 
drawing in showing plumbirg construction. 3. Correct and incorrect methods in plumbing 
drawing; plan and elevation explained. 4. Floor and cellar plans and elevation; scale 
drawings; use of triangles. 6. Use of triangles; drawing of fittings, traps, etc. 6. Drawing 
plumbing elevations and fittings. 7. Instructions in drawing plumbing elevations. 8. The 
drawing of plumbing fixtures; scale drawings. 9. Drawings of fixtures and fittings. 10. Ink- 
ing of drawings. 11. Shading of drawings. 12. Shading-of drawings. 13. Sectional drawings; 
drawing of threads. 14. Plumbing elevations from architect's plan. 15. Elevations of sepa- 
rate parts of the plumbing system. 16. Elevations from the architect's plans. 17. Drawings 
of detail plumbing connections. 18. Architect's plans and plumbing elevations of residence. 
19. Plumbing elevations of residence {continued); plumbing plans for cottage. 20. Plumbing 
elevations; roof connections. 21. Plans and plumbing elevations for six-flat building. 22. 
Drawing of various parts of the plumbing system; use of scales. 23. Use of architect's scales. 
24. Special features in the illustrations of country plumbing. 25. Drawing of wrought-iron 
piping, valves, radiators, coils, etc. 26. Drawing of piping to illustrate heating systems. 
150 illustrations. Price $1.50 

Modern Plumbing Dlustrated. By R. M. Starbuck. 

This boak represents the highest standard of plumbing work. Tt has been adopted and used 
as a reference book by the United States Government in its sanitary work in Cuba, Porto 
Rico and the Philippines, and by the principal Boards of Health of the United States and 
Canada. 

It gives connections, sizes and working data for all fixtures and groups of fixtures. It is help- 
ful to the master plumber in demonstrating to his customers and in figuring work. It gives 
the mechanic and student quick and easy access to the best modern plumbing practice. Sug- 
gestions for estimating plumbing construction are contained in its pages. This book repre- 
sents, in a word, the latest and best up-to-date practice and should be in the hands of every 
architect, sanitary engineer and plumber who wishes to keep himself up to the minute on 
this important feature of construction. Contains following chapters, each illustrated with a 
aill-page plate: Kitchen sink, laundry tubs, vegetable wash sink; lavatories, pantry sinks, 
contents of marble slabs; bath tub, foot and sitz bath, shower bath; water closets, venting 
of water closets; low-down water closets, water closets operated by flush valves, water closet 
range; slop sink, urinals, the bidet; hotel and restaurant sink, grease trap; refrigerators, 
safe wastes, laundry waste, lines of refrigerators, bar sinks, soda fountain sinks; horse stall, 
frost-proof water closets; connections for S traps, venting; connections for drum traps; 
soil-pipe connections; supporting of soil pipe; main trap and fresh-air inlet; floor drains and 
cellar drains, subsoil drainage; water closets and floor connections; local venting; connections 
for bath rooms; connections for bath rooms, continued; examples of poor practice; roughing 
work ready for test; testing of plumbing systems; method of continuous venting; continuous 
venting for two-floor work; continuous venting for two lines of fixtures on three or more 
floors; continuous venting of water closets; plumbing for cottage house; construction for 
cellar piping; plumbing for residence, use of special fittings; plumbing for two-flat house; 
plumbing for apartment building, plumbing for double apartment building; plumbing for 
office building; plumbing for public toilet rooms; plumbing for public toilet rooms, con- 
tinued; plumbing for bath establishment; plumbing for engine house, factory plumbing; 
automatic flushing for schools, factories, etc.; use of flushing valves; urinals for public toilet 
rooms; the Durham system, the destrucdon of pipes by electrolysis; construction of work 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 29 

without use o"^ lead; automatic sewage lift; automatic sump tank; country plumbing; 
construction ox cesspools; septic tank and automatic sewage siphon; water supply for 
country house; thawing of water mains and service by electricity; double boilers; hot 
water supply of large buildings; automatic control of hot-water tank; suggestions for 
estimating plumbing construction. 407 octavo pages, fully illustrated by 57 full-page 
engravings. Third, revised and enlarged edition, just issued. Price $4.00 

Standard Practical Plumbing. By R. M. Starbuck. 

A complete practical treatise of 450 pages, covering the subject of Modern Plumbing in all its 
branches, a large amount of space being devoted to a very complete and practical treatment of 
the subject of Hot Water Supply and Circulation and Range Boiler Work. Its thirty chapters 
include about every phase of the subject one can think of, making it an indispensable work ta 
the master plumber, the journeyman plumber, and the apprentice plumber, containing chap- 
ters on: the plumber's tools; wiping solder; composition and use; joint wiping; lead work; 
traps; siphonage of traps; venting; continuous venting; house sewer and sewer connections; 
house drain; soil piping, roughing; main trap and fresh air inlet; floor, yard, cellar drains, 
rain leaders, etc.; fixture wastes; water closets; ventilation; improved plumbing connections; 
residence plumbing; plumbing for hotels, schools, factories, stables, etc.; modern country 
plumbing; filtration of sewage and water supply; hot and cold supply; range boilers; circula- 
tion; circulating pipes; range boiler problems; hot water for large buildings; water lift and 
its use; multiple connections for hot water boilers; heating of radiation by supply system; 
theory for the plumber; drawing for the plumber. Fully illustrated by 347 engravings. 
Price $3.00 

RECIPE BOOK 

Henley's Twentieth Century Book of Recipes, Formulas and Processes. 

Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. 

The rnost valuable Techno-chemical Formula Book published, including over 10,000 selected 
scientific, chemical, technological, and practical recipes and processes. 

This is the most complete Book of Formulas ever published, giving thousands of recipes for 
the manufacture of valuable articles for everyday use. Hints, Helps, Practical Ideas, and 
Secret Processes are revealed within its pages. It covers every branch of the useful arts and 
tells thousands of ways of making money, and is just the book everyone should have at his 
command. 

Modern in its treatment of every subject that properly falls within its scope, the book may 
truthfully be said to present the very latest formulas to be found in the arts and industries^ 
and to retain those processes which long experience has proven worthy of a permanent record. 
To present here even a limited number of the subjects which find a place in this valuable work 
would be difficult. Suffice to say that in its pages will be found matter of intense interest and 
immeasurably practical value to the scientific amateur and to him who wishes to obtain a 
knowledge of the many processes used in the arts, trades and manufacture, a knowledge 
which will render his pursuits more instructive and remunerative. Serving as a 

reference book to the small and large manufacturer and supplying intelligent seekers with the 
information necessary to conduct a process, the work will be found of inestimable worth to 
the Metallurgist, the Photographer, the Perfumer, the Painter, the Manufacturer of Glues, 
Pastes, Cements, and Mucilages, the Compounder of Alloys, the Cook, the Physician, the 
Druggist, the Electrician, the Brewer, the Engineer, the Foundryman, the Machinist, the 
Potter, the Tanner, the Confectioner, the Chiropodist, the Manicurist, the Manufacturer of 
Chemical Novelties and Toilet Preparations, the Dyer, the Electroplater, the Enameler, the 
Engraver, the Provasioner, the Class Worker, the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker, the Jeweler, 
the Hat ^laker, the Ink ISIanufacturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairyman, the Paper 
[Maker, the Wood and Metal Worker, the Chandler and Soap Maker, the Veterinary Surgeon, 
and the Technologist in general. 

A mine of information, and up-to-date in every respect. A book which will prove of value 
to EVERYONE, as it covers every branch of the Useful Arts. Every home needs this book; 
every office, every factory, every store, every public and private enterprise — EVERYWHERE 
— should have a copy. 800 pages. Price $3.0(^ 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

"Your Twentieth Century Book of Recipes, Formulas, and Processes duly received. I aiu 
glad to have a copy of it, and if I could not replace it, money couldn't buy it. It is the best 
thing of the sort I ever saw." (Signed) M. E. Trux, Sparta, Wis. 

"There are few persons who would not be able to find in the book some single formula that 
would repay several times the cost of the book." — Merchants' Record and Show Window. 

*'I purchased your book, 'Henley's Twentieth Century Book of Recipes, Formulas and Proc- 
esses,' about a year ago and it is worth its weight in gold." — Wm. H. Murray, Bennington, Vt. 

"ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST USEFUL BOOKS" 

"Some time ago I got one of your 'Twentieth Century Books of Formulas,' and have made 
my living from it ever since. I am alone since my husband's death with two small children 
to care for and am trying so hard to support them. I have customers who take from me 
Toilet Articles I put up, following directions given in the book, and I have found everyone of 
them to be fine." — Mrs. J. H. McMaken, West Toledo, Ohio. 



30 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 



RUBBER 

Rubber Hand Stamps and the Manipulation of India Rubber. By T, 

O'CoNOR Sloane. 

This book givea'full details on all points, treating in a concise and simple manner the elements 
ot nearly everythmg it is necessary to understand for a commencement in any branch of the 
India Rubber Manufacture. The making of all kinds of Rubber Hand Stamps, Small Articles 
of India Rubber, U. S. Government Composition, Dating Hand Stamps, the Manipulation of 
Sheet Rubber, Toy Balloons, India Rubber Solutions, Cements, Blackings, Renovating, 
Varnish, and Treatment for India Rubber Shoes, etc.; the Hektograph Stamp Inks, and Mis- 
cellaneous Notes, with a Short Account of the Discovery, Collection and Manufacture of India 
RuJDber, are set forth in a manner designed to be readily understood, the explanations being 
plain and simple. Including a chapter on Rubber Tire Making and Vulcanizing; also a 
• chapter on the uses of rubber in Surgery and Dentistry. 3rd Revised and Enlarged Edition. 
175 pages. Illustrated $1.00 

SAWS 



Saw Filing and Management of Saws. By Robert Grimshaw. 

A practical hand-book on filing, gumming, swaging, hammering, and the brazing of band 
saws, the speed, work, and power to run circular saws, etc. A handy book for those who have 
charge of saws, or for those mechanics who do their own filing, as it deals with the proper 
shape and pitches of saw teeth of all kinds and gives many useful hints and rules for gumming, 
setting, and filing, and is a practical aid to those who use saws for any purpose. Complete 
tables of proper shape, pitch, and saw teeth as well as sizes and number of teeth of various 
saws are included. 3rd Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Illustrated. Price $1 00 



STEAM ENGINEERING 



American Stationary Engineering. By \Y. E. Crane. 

This book begins at the boiler room and takes in the whole pow-er plant. A plain talk on 
evcry-dr.y work about engines, boilers, and their accessories. It is not intended to be scien- 
ti.lc or mathematical. All formulas are in simple form so that any one understanding plain 
arithmetic can readily understand any of them. The author has made this the most practical 
book in print; has given the results of his years of experience, and has included about all that 
has to do with an engine room or a power plant. You are not left to guess at a single point. 
You are shown clearly what to expect under the various conditions; how to secure the best 
results; ways of preventing "shut downs" and repairs; in short, all that goes to make up the 
requirements of a good engineer, capable of_ taking charge of a plant. It's plain enough for 
practical men and yet of value to those high in the profession. 

A partial list of contents is: The boiler room, cleaning boilers, firing, feeding; pumps, inspec- 
tion and repair; chimneys, sizes and cost; piping; mason work; foundations; testing cement; 
pile driving; engines, slow and high speed; valves; valve setting; Corliss engines, setting 
valves, single and double eccentric; air pumps and condensers; different types of conden- 
sers; water needed; lining up; pounds; pins not square in crosshead or crank; engineers' 
tools; pistons and piston rings; bearing metal; hardened copper; drip pipes from cylinder 
jacket; belts, how made, care of^ oils; greases; testing lubricants; rules and tables, in- 
cluding steam tables; areas of segments; squares and square roots; cubes and cube root; 
areas and circumferences of circles. Notes on: Brick work; explosions; pumps; pump 
valves; heaters, economizers; safety valves; lap, lead, and clearance. Has a complete ex- 
amination for a license, etc., etc. 3rd Edition. 345 pages, illustrated. Price .... ^^,00 

Engine Runner's Catechism. By Robert Grimshaw. 

A practical treatise for the stationary engineer, telling how to erect, adjust, and run the 
principal steam engines in use in the United States. Describing the principal features of vari- 
ous special and well-known makes of engines: Temper Cut-off, Shipping and Receiving Founda- 
tions, Erecting and Starting, Valve Setting, Care and Use, Emergencies, Erecting and Ad- 
justing Special Engines. 

The questions asked throughout the catechism are plain and to the point, and the answers 
are given in such simple language as to be readily understood by anyone. All the instructions 
given are complete and up-to-date; and they are written in a popular style, without any 
technicalities or mathematical formulae. The work is of a handy size for the pocket, clearly 
ond well printed, nicely bound, and profusely illustrated. 

To young engineers this catechism will be of great value, esp'ecially to those who may be 
Drenaring to go forward to be examined for certificates of competency; and to engineers 
eenpr-illv it will be of no little service, as they will find in this volume more really practical 
and useful information than is to be found anywhere else within a like compass. 387 pages. 
7th Edition. Price c . $3.00 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 31 



Modern Steam Engineering in Tlieory and Practice. By Gardner D. 
Hiscox. 

This is a complete and practical work issued for Stationary Engineers and Firemen, dealing 
with the care and management of boilers, engines, pumps, superheated steam, refrigerating 
machinery, dvnamos, motors, elevators, air compressors, and all other branches with which 
the modcVn e'ngineer must be familiar. Nearly 200 questions with their answers on steam 
and electrical ennineering, likely to be asked by the Examining Board, are included. 
Among the chapters are: Historical: steam and its properties; appliances for the generation 
of steam; tvpes of boilers; chimney and its work; heat economy of the feed water; steam 
pumps and their work; incrustation and its work; steam above atmospheric pressure; flow- 
of steam from nozzles; superheated steam and its work; adiabatic expansion of steam; indi- 
cator and its work; steam engine proportions; slide valve engines and valve motion; Corliss 
engine and its valve gear; compound engine and its theory; triple and multiple expansion 
engine; steam turbine: refrigeration; elevators and their management; cost of power; steam 
engine troubles; electric power and electric plants. 4S7 pages, 405 engravings. 3rd Edition. 
Price : $3.0© 

Steam Engine Catecliism. By Robert Grimshaw. 

This unique volume of 413 pages is not only a catechism on the question and answer principle 
but it contains formulas and worked-out answers for all the Steam problems that appertain to 
operation and management of the Steam Engine. Illustrations of various valves and valve 
gear with their principles of operation are given. Thirty-four Tables that are indispensable 
to every engineer and fireman that wishes to be progressive and is ambitious to become master 
of his calling are within ics pages. It is a most valuable instructor in the service of Steam 
Engineering. Leading engineers have recommended it as a valuable educator for the begin- 
ner as well as a reference book for the engineer. It is thoroughly indexed for every detail. 
Every essential question on the Steam Engine with its answer is contained in this valuable 
work. 16th Edition. Price $^,00 

Steam Engineer's Arithmetic. By Colvix-Chexey. 

A practical pocket-book for the steam engineer. Shows how to work the problems of the 
engine room and shows "why." Tells how to figure horsepower of engines and boilers; area 
of boilers; has tables of areas and circumferences; steam tables; has a dictionary of engineering 
terms. Puts you on to all of the little kinks in figuring whatever there is to figure around a 
power plant. Tells you about the heat unit; absolute zero; adiabatic expansion; duty of 
engines; factor of safety; and a thousand and one other things; and everything is plain and 
simple — not the hardest way to figure, but the easiest. 2nd Edition. Price . . 50 CcntS 

Engine Tests and Boiler Efficiencies. By J. Buchetti. 

This work fully describes and illustrates the method of testing the power of steam engines, 
turbines and explosive motors. The properties of steam and the evaporative power of fuels. 
Combustion of fuel and chimney draft; with formulas explained or practicallj' computed. 
255 pages, 179 illustrations. Price $3.00 

Horsepower Chart. 

Shows the horsepower of any stationary engine without calculation. No matter what the 
cylinder diameter of stroke, the steam pressure of cut-off, the revolutions, or whether con- 
densing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, accurate, and saves time and calcula- 
tions. Especially useful to engineers and designers. Price 5Q CcntS 

STEAM HEATING AND VENTILATION 



Practical Steam, Hot-Water Heating and Ventilation. By A. G. Kixg. 

This book is the standard and latest work published on the subject and has been prepared for 
the use of all engaged in the business of steam, hot-water heating, and ventilation. It is an 
original and exhaustive work. Tells how to get heating contracts, how to install heating and 
ventilating apparatus, the best business methods to be used, with "Tricks of the Trade" for 
shop use. Rules and data for estimating radiation and cost and such tables and information 
as make it an indispensable work for everyone interested in steam, hot-water heating, and 
ventilation. It describes all the principal systems of steam, hot-water, vacuum, vapor, and 
vacuum-vapor heating, together with the new accelerated systems of hot-water circulation, 
including chapters on up-to-date methods of ventilation and the fan or blower system of heat- 
ing and ventilation. Containing chapters on: I. Introduction. II. Heat. III. Evolution 
of artificial heating apparatus. IV. Boiler surface and settings. V. The chimney flue. 
VI. Pipe and fittings. VII. Valves, various kinds. VIII. Forms of radiating surfaces. IX. 



32 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

Locating of radiating surfaces. X. Estimating radiation. XI. Steam-heating apparatus. 
XII. Exhaust-steam heating. XIII. Hot-water heating. XIV. Pressure systems of hot-water 
work. XV. Hot-water appliances. XVI. Greenhouse heating. XVII. Vacuum vapor and 
vacuum exhaust heating. XVIII. Miscellaneous heating. XIX. Radiator and pipe connec- 
tions. XX. Ventilation. XXI. Mechanical ventilation and hot-blast heating. XXII. 
Steam appliances. XXIII. District heating. XXIV. Pipe and boiler covering. XXV. Tem- 
perature regulation and heat control. XXVI. Business methods. XXVII. Miscellaneous. 
XXVIII. Rules, tables, and useful information. 367 pages, 300 detailed engravings. 2nd 
Edition — Revised. Price $3.00 

Five Hundred Plain Answers to Direct Questions on Steam, Hot-Water, 
Vapor and Vacuum Heating Practice. By Alfred G. King. 

This work, ]nst off the press, is arranged in question and answer form; it is intended as a 
guide and text-book for the younger, inexperienced fitter and as a reference book for all 
fitters. This book tells "how" and also tells "why". No work of its kind has ever been 
published. It answers all the questions regarding each method or system that would be 
asked by the steam fitter or heating contractor, and may be used as a text or reference book, 
and for examination questions by Trade Schools or Steam Fitters' Associations. Rules, data, 
tables and descriptive methods are given, together with much other detailed information of 
daily practical use to those engaged in or interested in the various methods of heating. Val- 
uable to those preparing for examinations. Answers every question asked relating to modern 
Steam, Hot-Water, Vapor and Vacuum Heating. Among the contents are: The Theory and 
Laws of Heat. Methods of Heating. Chimneys and Flues. Boilers for Heating. Boiler 
Trimmings and Settings. Radiation. Steam Heating. Boiler, Radiator and Pipe Connec- 
tions for Steam Heating. Hot Water Heating. The Two-Pipe Gravity System of Hot Water 
Heating. The Circuit System of Hot Water Heating. The Overhead System of Hot Water 
Heating. Boiler, Radiator and Pipe Connections for Gravity Systems of Hot Water Heat- 
ing. Accelerated Hot Water Heating. Expansion Tank Connections. Domectic Hot Water 
Heating. Valves and Air Valves. Vacuum Vapor and Vacuo-Vapor Heating. Mechanical 
Systems of Vacuum Heating. Non-Mechanical Vacuum Systems. Vapor Systems. Atmos- 
pheric and Modulating Systems. Heating Greenhouses. Information, Rules and Tables. 
200 pages, 127 illustrations. Octavo. Cloth. Price $1.50 



STEEL 

Steel: Its Selection," Annealing, Hardening, and Tempering. By E. R. 

Markham. 

This work was formerly known as "The American Steel Worker," but on the publication 
of the new, revised edition, the publishers deemed it advisable to change its title to a more 
suitable one. It is the standard work on Hardening, Tempering, and Annealing Steel of all kinds. 
This book tells how to select, and how to work, temper, harden, and anneal steel for every- 
thing on earth. It doesn't tell how to temper one class of tools and then leave the treatment 
of another kind of tool to your imagination and judgment, but it gives careful instructions 
for every detail of every tool, whether it be a tap, a reamer or just a screw-driver. It tells 
about the tempering of small watch springs, the hardening of cutlery, and the annealing of 
dies. In fact, there isn't a thing that a steel worker would want to know that isn't included. 
It is the standard book on selecting, hardening and tempering all grades of steel. Among 
the chapter headings might be mentioned the following subjects: Introduction; the work- 
man; steel; methods of heating; heating tool steel; forging; annealing; hardening baths; 
baths for hardening; hardening steel; drawing the temper after hardening; examples of 
hardening; pack hardening; case hardening; spring tempering; making tools of machine 
steel; special steels; steel for various tools; causes of trouble; high-speed steels, etc. 400 
pages. Very fully illustrated. Fourth edition. Price $^.50 

Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, and Forging of Steel. By J. V. Wood- 
worth. 

A new work treating in a clear, concise manner all modern processes for the heating, anneal- 
ing, forging, welding, hardening and tempering of steel, making it a book of great practical 
value to the metal-working mechanic in general, with special directions for the successful 
' hardening and tempering of all steel tools used in the arts, including milling cutters, taps, thread 
dies, reamers, both solid and shell, hollow mills, punches and dies, and all kinds of sheet- 
metal working tools, shear blades, saws, fine cutlery, and metal-cutting tools of all descrip- 
tion, as well as for all implements of steel both large and small. In this work the simplest 
and most satisfactory hardening and tempering processes are given. 

The uses to which the leading brands of steel may be adapted are concisely presented, and 
their treatment for working under different conditions explained, also the special methods 
for the hardening and tempering of special brands. 

A chapter devoted to the different processes for case-hardening i-s also included, and special 
reference made to the adaptation of machinery steel for tools of various kinds. Fourth edi- 
tion. 288 pages. 201 illustrations. Price $!S*50 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 33 



TRACTORS 



The Modern Gas Tractor. By Victor W. Page, M.E. 

A complete treatise describing all types and sizes of gasoline, kerosene and oil tractors. Con- 
siders design and construction exhaustively, gives complete instructions for care, operation 
and repair, outlines all practical applications on the road and in the field. The best and 
latest work on farm tractors and tractor power plants. A work needed by farmers, students, 
blacksmiths, mechanics, salesmen, implement dealers, designers, and engineers. Second iclition, 
revised and enlarged. 504 pages. Nearly 300 Ulustratious and folding plates. Price $^.00 



TURBINES 

Marine Steam Turbines. By Dr. G. Bauer and O. Lasche. Assisted by 

E. LuDwiG and H. Vogel. 

Translated from the German and edited by M. G. S. Swallow. The book is essentially prac- 
tical and discusses turbines in which the full expansion of steam passes through a number 
of separate turbines arranged for driving two or more shafts, as in the Parsons system, and 
turbines in which the complete expansion of steam from inlet to exhaust pressure occurs in 
a turbine on one shaft, as in the case of the Curtis machines. It will enable a designer to 
carry out all the ordinary calculation necessary for the construction of steam turbines, hence 
it fills a want which is hardly met by larger and more theoretical works. Numerous tables, 
curves and diagrams will be found, which explain with remarkable lucidity the reason why 
turbine blades are designed as they are, the course which steam takes through turbines of 
various tyi^es, the thermodynamics of steam turbine calculation, the influence of vacuum 
on steam consumption of steam turbines, etc. In a word, the very information which a de- 
signer and builder of steam turbines most requires. Large octavo, 214 pages. Fully illustrated 
and containing eighteen tables, including an entropy chart. Price, net $3.50 



WATCH MAKING 

Watclimaker's Handbook. By Claudius Saunier. 

No work issued can compare w-ith this book for clearness and completeness. It contains 
498 pages and is intended as a workshop companion for those engaged in watch-making and 
allied mechanical arts. Nearly 250 eng^a^^ngs and fourteen plates are included. This is 
the standard work on watch-making. Price $3.00 



WELDING 

Automobile Welding with the Oxy- Acetylene Flame. By M. Keith Dunham. 

Explains in a simple manner apparatus to be used, its care, and how to construct necessary 
shop equipment. Proceeds then to the actual welding of all automobile parts, in a manner 
understandable by every one. Gives principles never to be forgotten. Aluminum, cast iron, 
steel, copper, brass, bronze, and malleable iron are fully treated, as well as a clear explana- 
tion of the proper mannei to burn the carbon out of the combustion head. This book is of 
utmost value, since the perple.xing problems arising when r.ietal is heated to a melting point 
are fully explained and the proper methods to overcome tLem shown. 167 pages, fully illus- 
trated. Price $1.00 



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